One of my favorite moments of 2008 was in Istanbul. The prayer service had just let out, and a sea of locals surged for the door. Being caught up in a crush of locals where the only way to get any personal space is to look up is, for me, a ritual connecting with humanity. I seek these opportunities out. It’s the closest I’ll ever come to experiencing the joy of body surfing above a mosh pit.
Going with the worshipping flow, I scanned the dark sky. That scene — one I had forgotten was so breathtaking — played for me again: hard-pumping seagulls powering through the humid air in a black sky, surging into the light as they cross in front of floodlit minarets.
Our society’s theme for 2009: change. I’ve been thinking about change and reflecting on the last year’s travels. Sometimes change is forced on you, as if caught in a teeming mob scene. Other times you plan for and dictate change — which seems like change, but is actually more of the same…just better designed.
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All societies morph with the push and pull of the times. Walking down to the Golden Horn inlet and Istanbul’s churning waterfront, I crossed the new Galata Bridge, which made me miss the dismantled and shipped-out old Galata Bridge — so crusty with life’s struggles.
Then I realized that, while the old bridge was gone, the new one’s been engulfed with the same vibrant street life — boys casting their lines, old men sucking on water pipes, sesame-seed bread rings filling cloudy glass-windowed carts.
Walking the new Galata Bridge and still finding the old reminded me how stubborn cultural inertia can be. If you give a camel-riding Bedouin a new Mercedes, he still decorates it like a camel. I remember looking at tribal leaders in Afghanistan — shaved, cleaned up, and given a bureaucrat’s uniform. But looking more closely, I see the bushy grey bearded men in dusty old robes still living behind those modern uniforms. I remember seeing a Californian who dropped out of the “modern rat race” in Katmandu — calloused almost-animal feet, matted dreadlocks, draped in sackcloth as he stood cane in hand before the living virgin goddess. Somehow I could still see Los Angeles in his eyes. The resilience of a culture can’t be overcome with a haircut and a shave — or lack of one — or a new bridge.
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On the sloppy adjacent harborfront, the venerable “fish and bread boats” were still rocking in the constant chop of the busy harbor. In a humbler day, they were 20-foot-long open dinghies — rough boats with battered car tires for fenders — with open fires grilling fish literally fresh off the boat. For a few coins, they’d bury a big white fillet in a hunk of fluffy white bread, wrap it in newsprint, and I was on my way…dining out on fish.
A few years ago, the fish and bread boats were shut down — they had no license. Now, after a popular uproar, they’re back. A bit more hygienic and no longer wrapping in newspaper — but they’re still rocking in the waves and slamming out fresh fish.
Regardless of where 2009 leads us (our retail sales, retirement accounts, stock market, the dollar versus the euro), we’ll still be rocking in the waves and slamming out fresh whatever-we-produce.
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Beautifully written, a pleasure to read.
Completely off topic… I just received the DVDs today of your latest shows. Wow, the picture quality looks fantastic! Also, I appreciated your comments about small town Europe (forget which episodes)… No world-class museums or sights, just pleasant places to enjoy the moment.
Sounds like evolution and adaption in life and business is on your mind. I think everyone is facing a new reality and tough challenges. Now to go way off topic. My wish for America next year is simple. Live within your means and the pain will go away. Its tough but it can be done.
Rick, I appreciate you getting back on track and away from the politics. With today’s economy, you cannot afford to lose any customers because of your political views. This blog got pretty rough before the election. You do a great job and obviously know your business very well.
I love whatever you write, Rick. Bring on the food, culture or politics. It is all good. It is unfortunate there are those who don’t explore parts of life that appeal to them out of fear they will offend someone or it may affect their bottom line. I have noticed in these pages that for some posters here, they are not opposed to politics, just the politics they disagree with. I think it is shameful to threaten you with boycott or loss of business because they disagree with you. There is something morally corrupt in that thinking. I think you should always ignore such a narrow view of life. You will more than make up for any threat of lost revenue by attracting more forward thinking people.
Fred very wise remarks, I am very nervous about 2009 and 2010 and living only my cash and not dreaming of taking the plastic out these days. So many people up and down my block have second mortgages that can’t now be paid or credit cards that have suddenly spiked to a 26% interest rate. Every where I turn people from all walks of life are losing jobs, food stamp usage that use to be an embarassment to get are being obtained by middle class people and repo is no longer a dirty word. Three times i have almost hit the enter button to sign up for ricks San Sebastian tour but stopped because I am nervous what will the economy be like in May. Well let’s hope for the best and remember the good times we all had when we had the money to travel without thinking twice.
Fred and Kathy, I agree with you 100% but one thing I have been thinking about. With the stronger USD versus the Euro and Pound, if your job is half way secure, it would be a great time to travel. I have scheduled a trip in April. I just booked coach on AA, LAX to LHR at just $510 round trip. A great price. Flights within the Continent are equally low. Hotels are offering great specials.
I forgot to add, Rick is have some great sales on his 2009 tours. My trip is business but my wife and I are thinking about signing up for one of Ricks tours as well.
John is right. I have a flight to Germany in the middle of January for about $500 on Lufthansa and hotel rates are very good, as the dollar is strong against the Euro.
Want to get to Europe in late 2009? It’s can be done with sacrifice and some disipline. Bear with me for a minute.First off let’s get this thing paid for with cash. Let’s look at our individual budgets and see what we can cut. Yup, I said cut. At the end of this I will have come up with 2k in savings over 10 months and you will be on your way to Europe. 2k is for flights and lodging only and I am not counting food,trains or sightseeing. This is a shoestring trip with Ricks books as your guide. Very close to the ground traveling. 1. Cut your cable bill or satellite to the bare bones package. Save $50 a month x 10 months, Pocket $500. 2. Use coupons when you go grocery shopping. Save $50 a month x 10 months, pocket $500 Halfway home. 3. Do some of your own drycleaning. Save $3.00 for pants x 10 pairs a month for 10 months. Pocket $300 4. Use your home phone!, cut your cell plan by $30 a month x 10 months. Pocket $300 5. Cut your clothing budget by shopping at a discount retailer by $40 a month x 10 months. Pocket $400. Done. 2k in savings. You barely felt it. Have fun in Europe!
John I totally agree what you are saying about traveling now because the Euro is down. The trip I want to take with Rick is 1800 for him 1400 for airfare giving me a 3200 tab for a week, not counting food etc which Rick says add about 60 day. The wanderlust tells me go the Suze Ormond in me tells me things are getting worse bank that 3500 for the rain storm that may come sooner than later. Right now seeing my friends and clients losing their jobs with no notice or severance package the ripple affect is beginning to show. For the first time in 13 years I might have to put Europe off and travel around here-no really a bad thought I can do south carolina on a weekend same for north carolina.