Montenegro: Let the Experience Breathe

 

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Driving south from Dubrovnik, we hit a border in less than an hour. In the next week, my punch-drunk passport will be stamped and stamped and stamped. While the unification of Europe has made most border crossings feel archaic, the break-up of Yugoslavia has kept them in vogue here. Montenegro declared independence from Serbia just a year ago. Presto! Another border. The poorer the country, it seems, the more ornate the border formalities.

By European standards, Montenegro is about as poor as it gets. They don’t even have their own coins. With just 620,000 people, they decided, heck, let’s just use euros. (And since it’s such a tiny place, the official Eurozone countries are willing to look the other way.)

Montenegro is pretty light on sights. But along its humble Adriatic coastline is the Bay of Kotor, with its delightful main town of Kotor. People love to call it “fjord-like.” (Too many people who say “fjord-like” have never really seen a fjord. If you’ve been to Norway, you know it’s rare that something routinely described as “fjord-like” is actually fjord-like. The Bay of Kotor, however, is worthy of the description.)

At the humble town of Perast, young Montenegrin swim-trunk-clad hunks riding little dinghies jockey to motor tourists out to the island in the middle of the bay. According to legend, fishermen saw Mary in the reef and began a ritual of dropping a stone on the spot every time they sailed by. Eventually the island we see today was created, and upon that island was built a fine little church.

Cameron and I hired a hunk, cruised out, and were met by an English-speaking young woman. (The language barrier is minimal here, as English is taught from first grade in school.) She gave us a fascinating tour.

In the sacristy hung a piece of embroidery — a 25-year-long labor of love made by a local parishioner. It was as exquisite as possible, lovingly made with silk and the woman’s own hair. We could trace her laborious progress through the cherubs that ornamented the border. As the years went by, both the hair of the angels and the hair of the devout artist turned from dark brown to white. Humble and anonymous as she was, she had faith that her work was worthwhile and would be appreciated — as it was today, two centuries later, by travelers from around the world.

I’ve been at my work for 25 years — hair’s doing fine so far. I also have a faith that it (my work, if not my hair) will be appreciated. That’s perhaps less humble than the woman, but, in that way…she reminded me of me.

I didn’t take a photograph of the embroidery. For some reason, I didn’t even take notes. At the moment, I didn’t recognize I was experiencing the highlight of my day. The impression of the woman’s loving embroidery needed — like a good red wine — to breathe. That was a lesson for me. I was already, mentally onto the next thing. When the power of the impression opened up, it was rich and full-bodied…but I was long gone. Hmmm.

Back in the town, I had a bijela kava (“white coffee,” as a latte is called here) and watched kids coming home from school. Two girls walked by happily spinning the same batons my sisters spun when I was a tyke. And then a sweet girl walked by all alone — lost in thought, carrying a tattered violin case.

Even in a country without its own currency, in a land where humble is everything’s middle name, parents can find an old violin and manage to give their little girls grace and culture. Letting that impression breathe, it made me happier than I imagined it would.

Comments

111 Replies to “Montenegro: Let the Experience Breathe”

  1. Last October, my wife and I visited Montenegro. The scenery was beautiful and the prices, relative to its northern Adriatic neighbours, cheap. The hike to the castle ruins above Kotor was worth the effort. Although the drives to Mt. Lovcen as well as the Ostrog Monastery were terrifying, the rewards were immense. Gratefully away from the beach resorts the tourism infrastructure was in its infancy, making Montenegro all the more attractive. Thanks Rick for reminding me of the beauty of Montenegro.

  2. Just wanted to let you know that your work in fact is appreciated, at least by this person. However I don’t have feelings one way or the other regarding your hair.

  3. Rick,
    That was the most beautiful and poetic posts you have ever written.
    Thanks for transporting me to Montenegro. I hope to go there some day.

  4. You really hit the nail on the head, Rick. So many times in life (not just while traveling), we get caught up in trying to capture the moment by taking so many pictures or writing furiously in our journals that we neglect to appreciate the experience itself and just allow it to happen. To be in the moment, to let it breathe, to have a full sensory experience will allow a person to be truly immersed in the beauty of that magical encounter. And the ordinary becomes extraordinary.

    Thank you for sharing your travel world with all of us. Your work is appreciated.

    . . .and you do seem to have a really good head of hair.

  5. Hair-schmair…I’m thinking of the swim-trunk-clad-hunks! Very cute guy in the picture. Hey, Rick, I go to Europe every year and I’m studying to be a writer/educator/travel guru like you. Keep up the good work.

  6. Montenegro sounds very charming. A reminder to savor the moment. Happy roads ahead!

  7. Love the blog ..been using your books and bags since 1996 (( same bag…. new books every year! )) and it always cracks me up the warnings about petty theft and pick pockets..maybe since I live in NYC and I’m used to the alertness you need in an urban area..but this is the best story I’ve seen on tourist crime ….Bush gets watch stolen in Albania !!!!

    video
    http://www.breitbart.tv/html/1579.html

    and story

    http://www.abcnews.go.com/Politics/wireStory?id=3270242

    keep up the great work…preaching the value of smart budget travel…this from a right wing , former military officer turned wall streeter…and a big fan

  8. I remember travelling to Montenegro with my parents when I was 10 years old. That was before the breakup of Yugoslavia but it was very poor then too. However my memories are not of that but of the beautiful blue water of the gulf of Kotor and the incredible beauty of the country. I was disappointed that I was not able to go there on my most recent trip to Europe (on your 17 Days in Eastern Europe tour) but if I am able to do your Croatia tour next year as I’d like you can bet that I’ll go to Kotor before flying home from Dubrovnik.

  9. I just finished a 2 week tour with Cameron and I don’t think I ever saw him looking so relaxed and happy. Great shot Rick! You’re making me very sorry I didn’t have an extra day to go down to Montenegro. But there’s always next time…

  10. Rick, I’m in Dubrovnik right now using your book as a guide with some friends. It was funny to log in to the web site and see a picture of a place that I was just at yesterday. We took your advice and rented a car to drive over to Montenegro instead of going through Atlas. We’re staying at a Sobe belonging to Eddie from Miami (Robert DiNero look alike) and he booked us a car for half the price of the Atlas tour. Thanks for all the great info! Sean

  11. My daughter went to Ostor last year, and said it was the most amazing place..she had one of those “moments” that Rick talks about…a breathless moment of awe..and it was terrifying getting there..keep up the great work!!!

  12. Your blog has transported me back to the summer of 1979, when I spent 3 months in beautiful Kotor. The scenery and people were unforgettable. I hope to go back one day.

  13. Just returned from a great tour from Rome, Vienna, Dubronik, Monte Negro and some of Serbia. It was amazing to read your blog while there. Actually kept my eyes open for you too. Used your books exclusively once again, they are great books. Some of the other books out there are nicer stateside to leaf through, but aside from being too heavy never really seem to find them useful in the countries. Your books offer alot of insights and are easy reading. Keep up the great work. Thanks for talking about Monte Negro, the Bay of Koter and Peraslt were the highlight of my trip. Drove a day in the Konolove valley too, and accidently hiked into Serbia. Met an interesting artist in residnce there and had some cherry brandy. Worth a stop on your next trip, very traditional oil works of Dubrovniks customs and history all in his family home of 600 years. Makes one think of our transient nature here in the states.

  14. Ah, so there is a reason all of my friends and I want to work for Rick! It is the passion for travel. Each year we argue over where to go – each has their favorite or “have to see” that we argue vehemently for. Never mind that one of us “won” last year – we still lobby for it next time. Tell Cameron that he won this year – Croatia it is. France was lovely. Complex and fascinating it is, and how wonderful! I can’t wait to see where we go next year…

  15. As a long-time European traveller and former contractor to help train US diplomats, it always frustrates me to see how the ambassadorial-designee, if a political appointee, often skips out on any background (not even language) training. For most countries, ambassadoria positions are the paramount to a diplomatic career. In the US, most of the time it is a political donor — whether it’s a GOP or Dem administration. It’s all the same, a reward for cash. And these are the people that are supposed to represent ALL of Americans? How can they be the top US diplomat in a country when they aren’t even diplomats? Well said, Rick.

  16. Hi Rick! We just returned from back dooring throughout Latvia and Lithuania… in addition to our trip to Estonia, Finland, and St. Petersburg. We loved the lack of crowds! We will be traveling throughout Croatia, Montenegro,and Bosnia next year… Please stop mentioning these “undiscovered gems” in the New York Times and your website for at least one more year… :) :) :) Merci Beaucoup!

  17. I forgot to mention above… Cameron…much thanks to you and your passion for these countries… Last year we called you directly and you graciously answered questions on Slovenia and Slovakia…. We have wonderful memories of Bratislava, Piran and the rest of Slovenia!

  18. All the tsking-tsking over Rick’s knife? People, grow up. One would think we have a national, even international, raging epidemic of knife violence on airplanes!

    What you think and what you like or dislike about another isn’t as important to everyone else as you seem to think. So, please, stop being so puritanical so the rest of us can concentrate on the travel discussions.

    Thank you for listening.

  19. Rick, you should read “Little is the Light” by famed UK-based travel writer Vitali Vitaliev. It was his treks through Europe’s mini- and micro-states. Fascinating.

  20. Rick, let me add my two cents’ worth in saying how much I’ve enjoyed your blog all summer. Traveling with you was like sitting on your shoulders for several months, seeing what you saw, hearing what you heard, tasting what you ate (except maybe the fried sperm!) and smiling right along with you. I can’t wait until next summer. By the way, I really enjoyed Andy’s blogs and missed it this summer. I realize he was busy with his own tour groups, but I believe there’s an audience out there for a blog of a college-age student/tour guide. Please encourage him to resurrect his blog next year, would you? Have a safe return journey, and my best wishes for your family, especially your dad. I can’t wait to see the latest episodes on PBS. Happy travels!

  21. Rick, I came across your blog this summer, while doing research for my trip that I will be taking with my sister in a few weeks to Italy, France and Spain. Now, I look forward to reading each entry. Like most of the other people that have commented, I think that you should keep your general strategy, but you may want to offer a few alternatives for those that are older. My sister and I, for example, would love to be able to take a “slower” ETBD tour with our mother, who has knee issues. Also, I recently received your awesome 2008 tour catalog and I am now trying to decide on a tour to take in the next 2 years. One thing I have noticed, however, is that many of the tour locations overlap. I have been to Europe several times and I would welcome some iteniaries that include some less known locations, like the ones that you sometimes visit for filming your PBS shows. I hope that you and Anne have a nice vacation. Let’s hear from Anne!

  22. Rick, I came across your blog this summer, while doing research for my trip that I will be taking with my sister in a few weeks to Italy, France and Spain. Now, I look forward to reading each entry. Like most of the other people that have commented, I think that you should keep your general strategy, but you may want to offer a few alternatives for those that are older. My sister and I, for example, would love to be able to take a “slower” ETBD tour with our mother, who has knee issues. Also, I recently received your awesome 2008 tour catalog and I am now trying to decide on a tour to take in the next 2 years. One thing I have noticed, however, is that many of the tour locations overlap. I have been to Europe several times and I would welcome some iteniaries that include some less known locations, like the ones that you sometimes visit for filming your PBS shows. I hope that you and Anne have a nice vacation. Let’s hear from Anne!

  23. We, too, we present at the Conversation Club table the night Rick stopped in this past July. We’d like to say a hello to our fellow travelers from that night and any of our gracious guests from Rothenburg. What an amazing place with an amazing assortment of people! Thank you for the wonderful suggestion, Rick, and thank you to all those who are part of such a wonderful place.

  24. Cali – there was recently an immensely long discussion about this on the fodors board, and I don’t care to repeat it. Basically, cancer survival was the only item anyone came up with where the US had better results, but it turned out that the study on which the claim was based only covered 10% of the US population. And cancer is hardly the only disease from which people die.

  25. Hi, Rick – Having been raised a Lutheran, I am particularly familiar with this viewpoint. The phrase, “we Protestants complain as we go because we care” helped me understand my passionate nature and desire to “help” when I can. (My all time favorite, though, was when you said that one of the churches in Italy was so pretty that “it makes a Lutheran want to light a candle” – that’s funny!) Safe and happy travels – thanks for the input. Judi PS – Saw you at Town Hall in Seattle a few weeks ago. FABULOUS job. Shook your hand afterward but don’t expect you to remember me among your many adoring fans. :-)

  26. Hi Rick, I had mention to my Mom that you would be in Chicagoand ask her to please, please come and see you at the Borders Books in Lincoln Park. She had mention that their wasn’t that many people their and being from Chicago and living Seattle. I was disapointed… “Come On Chicago People, Learn…. to Travel and open your minds”Well Rick, My mom enjoyed your speech and I will bring her to another one of your speeches in the Seattle area when she had time. thanks,

  27. RIP Low Tech I am sure that Kindle is a technological tour du force, and logically opens a new market for ETBD (may its market penetration increase). I know what I’d do with one of these gizmos, though: drop it. Or lose it. Ouch. I need one of these like I need color photos in my next Rick Steves guide. Or maps that try to show everything (but are still inferior to the free maps from the TI). Still I understand from Rick’s previous post the unstoppable economic logic of having more stuff in more books with fatter spines (and mark-ups) that more bookstores will want to put on their shelves. So technology and commerce will proceed apace, but I expect to miss the slimmer Rick Steves guides (printed on paper in glorious black and white), much as I do the French Franc and the strong dollar.

  28. That previous post was in response to a different, later blog entry from Rick! I have no idea how it got posted here. Sorry!

  29. After attending Rick’s talk at the Commonwealth Club in San Jose I am so glad that a major part of his speach is now in written form for all to read. To be a smart and thoughtful traveller I would think it is necessary to not only understand the politics of where you are travelling to, but also the politics where you are from. As Jack from Florida correctly noted, people buy Rick’s books because he is the travel authority on Europe. The fact that Rick said what he did in HIS blog speaks volumes as to what is really going on in the world, and I tend to believe that someone who spends almost half his time outside of the U.S. has a pretty good grasp on what the rest of the world thinks about us. Maybe our president could learn a thing or two in this respect. I also have a feeling that the people who are offended by Rick’s (correct) take on current foreign policy are the ones we probably don’t want to bump into on our European vacations anyway.

  30. What a great entry. Thank you Rick for your thoughts. We can recognize the negative implications of empire when we speak of Rome, but we cannot as easily recognize our own corporate empire. Globalization may have helped bring about our empirical behavior, but America’s corporate leadership grew over the last century and has helped us to wear the emporer’s cloak. Those who doubt that should read “War is a Racket” By Marine Major General Smedley Butler, published in 1936 (which may be read free online). “The surge has sucked all of the flexibility out of the system,” Army Chief of Staff George Casey said in an interview this week. “And we need to find a way of getting back into balance.” That doesn’t sound like success to me. Working or not this surge, this war is a racket. And our emperical behavior is shameful. Keep up your message about creating peace through travel Rick. There are millions who do not have the privilege to travel and speak out, so we who can must do it for them. Travel is for opening one’s mind. Sounds as if some folks could use a little more of it.

  31. > The middle east is not the sole support of the world’s oil and I don’t see us marching into Russia to grab their oil. Because obviously that would fail, as the U.S. attempt to invade Russia failed miserably in 1917. Of course we wouldn’t use the same techniques against what is still the second-largest military power in the world that we would againt broken-down Iraq and Iran. What’s your point? > …leaving millions without heat or ability to cook- can you name that country. Well, the biggest reported one was the Ukraine but there have been others. Was that the one you were talking about?

  32. > The middle east is not the sole support of the world’s oil and I don’t see us marching into Russia to grab their oil. Because obviously that would fail, as the U.S. attempt to invade Russia failed miserably in 1917. Of course we wouldn’t use the same techniques against what is still the second-largest military power in the world that we would againt broken-down Iraq and Iran. What’s your point? > …leaving millions without heat or ability to cook- can you name that country. Well, the biggest reported one was the Ukraine but there have been others. Was that the one you were talking about?

  33. Rick I think this whole thing could have been avoided if you had handled your reaction a little differently. Obviously the young man had gone through some trouble to find out when you would be in his neck of the woods and arranged time off to be there at the airport. So it is obvious this was important to him. Instead of the response you gave in a defensvie manner it might have been better if you put your bag down and looked at him to engage him and acknowledge his thoughts. You don’t have to agree with him but give him the ackowledgment that he was an important person with something to say. After he said what he said you could have told him that you appreciate his reaction to your stance on the matter but after doing research and thinking you were pretty firm in your feelings HOWEVER you are always open to new information. Then you could have told him you were on a tight schedule but here is my email address if you want to write to me. What he wanted was an acknowledgement that you were open to hearing his thoughts and he was valued as a person. I kindof think you blew it here by being so defensive. He was’t attacking you he just wanted to be heard and recognized that his feeling had value. I believe that if you had just acknowledged him as a person and not been scared of a confrontation you would have not even felt you had to write the column to justify your actions that has now inflamed so many people. I think you handled this wrong and if you would have just admitted there was a better way to handle this you would have looked like a bigger person. I am sure Andy has some strong feelings about things would you want someone to do what you did to the young man to Andy or Jacki. It’s all in the people skills we build up and learn from our mistakes

  34. Things are going to cost as much as YOU dear reader let them cost. Please speak up in Europe and at least try to bargain your way out of a few Euros on purchases when appropriate. There is noting wrong in asking for a discount. If America’s pseudo- recession reaches the rest of the world the Euro’s value will come down. Were all connected now.

  35. Lisbon — We were there May 6-8. The #15 bus to Belem only had a ticket machine and only accepted exact change. Tickets could not be purchased from the driver. We were only able to purchase 3 tickets for 4 persons so glad we didn’t get caught. We took the Bairro Alto stroll and indeed the Gloria funicular was working and the Miradoura was open. Sao Roque church was open although construction or repair was going on. Viuva Lamego is now a clothing store. Gulbenkien is a long downhill walk, but we asked for help along the way and got good directions. I loved the museum; great descriptions in the book. We enjoyed Canto Do Camoes for dinner and fado, 26 euros per. Pensao Residencial Geres was fine, clean and comfortable, plumbing was up-to-date and modern, daily service, paid 70 euros for room in front, facing street. Room in back was 55 euros. It’s quite a climb up the stairs, no lift. The intense security could either make you feel safe or uneasy. Buzzer to get in, buzzer to reach reception, reception has to buzz you through to your floor. Also has video surveilence. Delicious fresh fish lunch at Restaurante Os Jeronimos in Belem. We had no trouble departing from the Lisbon airport, no chaos at all. A fairly long line for passport check but that’s why you get there two hours early. The Steves’ book was wonderful for us.

  36. Rick, like many other commentors, I am concerned about how your trip will be used by the Iranian government… and how it will be presented to the American public. I know that most of the Iranian people are warm and good people, but to give credibility and publicity to an extremist government that sponsors the terrorist organizations Hamas and Hezbollah, and is supplying and training the terrorists who kill our soldiers in Iraq is just plain wrong. What other country has threatened to obtain nuclear weapons in order to wipe a democratic state off the face of the earth? Why encourage tourism to such a country, which would only serve to bolster their failing economy? You do a disservice to your country…and the world.

  37. Some have commented that the places that Rick recommends were always booked when they called for reservations. I have been successful by asking the innkeeper if he/she could recommend someone nearby that had their same high standards. My wife & I always got a room. Be positive — good innkeepers will always help you.

  38. Mr.Steves, I am surprised by your willingness to go to a country like this. Women are put to death by the courts for minor issues and just recently a teenager was sentence to hanging for what we here consider would be a minor offense. you are sticking ur neck out and any one you bring with, for what world peace? being able to bring tour groups there? Middle east and central asia dictators such as in uzbekistan and its ex soviet states are also included in this too. great places for americans to see in tour packages but the governments treat their citizens like dogs. and we [usa] spend millions on foreign aid to help upgrade their services and they spit on us or show disrespect.i could go on & on but you know most of what i comment about.if you need up to date info, you can read more about it on this blog at www. registan.com be careful out there, remember pres carter`s hostages. :-|

  39. Thank you, Rick, for understanding that it’s about the people, not the politics. As a reasonable person living in a democratic country, I wholly disagree with the politics of a theocratic, oppressive regime like that in Iran. But’s that’s just the point: I disagree with the government–not the people. That’s why they call it oppressive–the government and the religious leaders have to OPPRESS the people because the people don’t want to comply. The people just want to live their lives. How many of us global travelers, when we are out and about in the world, want to be known as neo-conservative, war-fighting, trillion-dollar-spendering, oil-consuming individuals? Who wants to go out there and be defined wholly by the actions of their government? I am proud to be an American–proud of our history, proud of our natural parks, our global charity efforts, our optimism, our museums, our symphonies, our universities. I am proud of so many things, but I am not proud of what our government has come to represent in recent years. I hope that people around the globe are willing to respectfully learn about me without the wildly inaccurate presuposition that I and my goverment are one. Should I not give that same respect to the Iranian people? So, thank you Rick for understanding that it’s the culture, the people, the soul of a country that truly define it. Politics and power are the deceptive mantle that can hide the beauty in any society. peoplepolitics

  40. Hi Rick, Thank you for what you are doing and I hope your trip brings more realistic information and point of views about Iranian people/culture etc. By reading first two days of your trip in your blog I can see you can give American people more realistic point of view about Iranian people. After all Iranian people are peaceful and like other people in the world hate war………. I am from Iran and I live in US. I have many friends that I can hook you up with in Tehran or Esfehan if you are interested. Don’t miss good food (Chelo kababi Nayeb, Abe Goosht and many others). I hope you have a wonderful time with Iranian people………. Looking forward to read your blog every day…………………………

  41. Hi Rick, Thank you for what you are doing and I hope your trip brings more realistic information and point of views about Iranian people/culture etc. By reading first two days of your trip in your blog I can see you can give American people more realistic point of view about Iranian people. After all Iranian people are peaceful and like other people in the world hate war………. I am from Iran and I live in US. I have many friends that I can hook you up with in Tehran or Esfehan if you are interested. Don’t miss good food (Chelo kababi Nayeb, Abe Goosht and many others). I hope you have a wonderful time with Iranian people………. Looking forward to read your blog every day…………………………

  42. Rick, I’ve really enjoyed reading these posts, and look forward to the show (in high def!). You’ve made me consider adding Iran to the list of countries I want to visit. I hope at some point–either here on the blog, or on the show–you’ll explain how an American can arrange to travel there. Thanks!

  43. Rick – Thanks for the great job, great pix, fascinating blog. I lived in Teheran in 1959-1962, son of a State Department diplomat, and so many of the scenes and faces look basically the same as I remember. They are still good people, as you have learned. Did you get addicted to the rice with raw egg? Cheers!

  44. Zebel it’s so nice of you to leave such a nice comment about your experience in Iran. I just wanted to make a small correction, that all colors are equal to me but historically, majority of Iranian are considered Caucasian :). ( brown or white, I love them both.

  45. Ok Laex…you got me dude (see June 13th post). I don’t know if it was your brilliant use of name calling, your penchant for typing in ALL CAPS, or the mountains of evidence you provided. You’ve convinced me. I’ve been deprogrammed. Henceforth, I will blame all problems that have occurred or will occur on the nasty ol’ US of A! You’re my hero!

  46. I stayed in the Cinque Terre last spring, at the Albergo Barbara in Vernazza. Loved the Albergo Barbara. Rick isn’t kidding when he says “prepare to hike up a bunch of steps,” or words to that effect; it was like climbing the Sagrada Familia cathedral in Barcelona. And I conked my head like Gandalf, often and well, against the beams in the top-floor room I had. But the view! Beautiful. Very friendly and warmly welcoming owners, too. As to the Cinque Terre, at least for that corner of it, there was a little too much “niente” in the Dolce Far Niente (“sweetness of doing nothing”) there. The hike up the trail was absolutely never to be forgotten, it instantly put me in a good mood, just being up there. In fact, it puts me in a good mood just to think of it now. It was cute to watch the fishermen toss fish to the local kitty, who then laid into them as if he meant business, though the fish were half his size. I would say the Cinque Terre are worth a night or maybe two, but not more, unless you’re sequestering yourself to write or paint, or just to decompress and really and truly do nothing. I got a better feeling from doing nothing in the Italian Lake District, for some reason. I found Positano or Amalfi more interesting, too, although a lot of people would say those are too “boutiqued up.” A beautiful place, but it would bother me to spend more than a couple of days there. Just my own take, of course, so if anyone differs–enjoy!

  47. Um–well that’s odd. The above comment from me, of course, was posted to the Cinque Terre blog entry. First it told me that I hadn’t entered the secret word correctly (to verify I’m not a spammer), but then when I entered the second word, and it said, “success,” it took me here! And Steve’s comment seems to have been meant for the Iran thread. Hm. Well–I’ll try to post the above again at the Cinque Terre thread. Cheers, W

  48. Note to Ill Will………..CHILL! What country do you intend to immigrate to? You will most likely find more “dum” people wherever you end up. Humberd has been known to say “It’s amazing how many ridiculous,stupid, ignorant, inefficient, obnoxious people you will meet,when you are in a bad mood.” Humberd, I find, almost always gets it right! Will, try to look for a little humor in some of these postings and perhaps you will decide to remain with us, even as some of us are but simple country lads.

  49. We are currently living in Germany with our two children – 3 and 6. The experiences they have will shape their lives. We have similar language games and our children our growing up with puzzles of Europe, the world and the US. My six year old can already find more countries now, then I could in High School. Travel is essential. It is important to see the parts of the world where people will risks their lives to escape. And the many parts of the world where people do not want to be Americans. It is not just a “journey of personal discovery”. Travel is the journey of understanding yourself, but also other people, cultures and how America fits in the world.

  50. I find it off the charts ironic that Rick Steves, a man who grew up in the very shadow of Mt Ranier, will comment on what he perceives as a fatal lack of curiosity on the part of Governor Palin while admitting that he recently visited Mt. Ranier for the very first time. Talk about lack of curiosity. Mt. Ranier is one of the most beautiful places in the world, and I cannot imagine growing up in its sight and not being drawn to it. Rick seems to be more curious about other countries and their citizens than he is about his own. I’m curious (there’s that word again). Has Rick ever been to Yellowstone National Park, the Grand Canyon, Yosemite, Mount Rushmore, or any of our national wonders? Has he visited the rain forests of the Olympic peninsula in his own backyard? Where’s the curiosity there? I’m seeing a frightenning amount of people judging others here, especially in the last couple of blog posts. The language being used to describe those with differing views is getting more coarse and crude. The use of derogatory terms and nicknames when addressing the “opposition” is totally unnecessary, and just serves to lower the level of discourse. Of course Rick has the right to post whatever he wishes, and his readers also have the right to respond in a respectful fashion. I wish Rick and his readers would throttle back on the level of vitriol directed at those of opposing viewpoints, both liberal and conservative. Its interesting that Rick comes across as a humble, friendly guy on TV, but as a cranky, preachy grouch on his blog. Why is that?

  51. Rick I believe this was a thought provoking post no matter what side of the fence you are on. At a time when we believe there has been the greatest bank heist ever, our emotions are running very high.Preachers and employers are giving their opinions and suggesting which way to vote,so surely you can offer your opinon. Thank you

  52. Michael L -You said, “Countries are not museum pieces, frozen in time” and I could not agree more. But I say a culture must be developed by long time citizens of a country, not forced on anyone by people who hated a culture bad enough to escape, then trys to force it on the home they moved to. If your culture was bad enough to leave, don’t try to force it on me. Wouldn’t it be terrible if all parts of the world were the same. I travel to see how other people live, not to force them to live my way. And this is not only between countries. When people say the US is “…one nation, indivisible …” consider the few similarities and the many differences between the Maine lobster trapper and his home and way of life, with the cowboy in Montana, and with the people who live on the mountain-side above Beverly Hills in Southern California! Not major differences that would make the people incompatible and contentious, but a shade of difference, that adds character and interest to both the people and their land. The US is “… one nation, indivisible … ” with many differences!

  53. Each American should be required to spend a month volunteering abroad, preferably when we are in high school, before hardened political ideology has set in. We would understand the world better, become better global citizens, and would vote not just for our own self-interests but also what is best for our planet. As the recent economic crisis, global warming, and 9/11 has shown, the days of living in isolated self-interest as Americans is rapidly disappearing.

  54. Catherine, If you are running as a Vice-presidential candidiate, why would a question such as… What experience do you have in foreighn affairs? be a stupid question? I think that is a justifiable question. What experience does Sarah Palin really have in foreign affairs,Catherine? Please tell me. I would really like to know. After all, she would be representing our country and we do need some one that does have a bit more intelligence than the clown we now have. He certainly has mucked things up around the world and his vice-president has not been of much use either. So I think that the questions that are asked of her certainly are important.

  55. I did not vote for President Obama (which I guess makes me a racist, neanderthal, Fox News loving, closed-minded neocon), but I wish him nothing but the best as he prepares to take office. Our country needs strong leadership as it continues to stand up to global terrorism, and I think he can provide this leadership while avoiding the stubborn smugness of the previous administration. However, the hard reality of governing, especially in a time of great fiscal crisis, will greatly reduce President Obama’s ability to enact significant change. Actually, that’s what I’m hoping will happen, because I don’t think we need the kind of change that would nationalize health care and redistribute wealth. I think Obama will end up being more of a Clinton type centrist, as long as he can keep Reid and Pelosi in check. If that’s the case, it’s going to be highly entertaining to watch the disappointment of President Obama’s left wing supporters when they discover that the “change they need” isn’t really going to happen. He already told them in his election night acceptance speech that it may not even get done “in one term”. What will the radical lefties do then? What they always do. Blame Bush and Cheney. Best wishes, President Obama. May the good Lord guide you in your journey.

  56. Steve, my only thought is: Are you a middle school student? All of you who are describing the new President as smart, thoughtful, adult blah blah blah. I just do not see it. I think his character is indeed deficient. The man is constantly talking the talk of helping others, sharing the wealth on and on. Look at what he as an individual has done for his fellow American, I assume he is referring to Americans. His own charitable giving has been documented from 2000-2004 to be under 1%. His largest amount after deciding to run for President was 6.1%. That is a sign of true character. I assume he just wants to spread everyone else’s wealth around. Family does not seem to make a difference as his own Aunt Zeituni is living in poverty in Boston, as well as being illegal. This is after writing in his book, DREAMS OF MY FATHER, about how he is now responsible for his own Aunt Zeituni ! He now claims to know nothing about her being here. To think he just spent over $600,000,000 to become our new magnanimous leader, and is rumored to have a brother living in Africa on $12 a year? Only a small example of character deficiency. He does talk really really well though!

  57. The fig leaf story is too funny! Money well spent just for the laugh. :) As an American living in Europe, I tend to agree with you. I cringe to think what ridiculous things American children are being taught as their mothers freak out over Janet Jackson’s half-time boob. That women’s bodies are wrong? Dirty? Evil? That their interest in said bodies is perverse and immoral? After 8 years here, I am mostly used to the European openness about nudity and sex, but every once in a while they manage to shock me. That’s not necessarily a bad thing.

  58. Rick, once again a little praise, some comment, and agreement, with another blogger. This blog may not generate hundreds of responses, but does portray why so many of us follow your quality travel leads. Travel is your positive mania, as it is mine. Today is the next to my last day this trip in europe for this traveler, who spent nearly four months here this year on four separate trips. I too just got a first and last hotel email info for my etbd trip next year. And cincinnati is a fine city, with marvelous german heritage well worth a visit when you have time. Wishing you happy christmas and new year, to family friends, and the traveler experts at etbd. larryk

  59. Hi Rick. YOU ARE THE TRUE AMBASSADOR OF PEACE! I am an Iranian American who has lived in the US for over 30 years and until I saw previews of your show, not once have I ever seen an unbiased portrayal of Iran on any American news or non news show. I can’t wait to see the full version on PBS. Of course you were there for only 12 days and it is practically impossible to expect to fit an entire culture in a one hour show, but yours is the first show that has put a human face on this richly cultured nation aside from the politics and so refreshingly different from the usual drumbeat of demonizing reporsts Americans are force fed daily and mostly for hostile geopolitical purposes. Iran has hundreds of ancient historical sites to visit, not only the 15 or so that are commonly shown to visitors or written about in tour books. I believe the hostile intent in words and actions the US has displayed since the 1953 CIA coup and especially since the Revolution has had a radicalizing effect that has fed on itself till today. It has had negative effects on both countries. Iranians are still sizzling from the 1953 coup, can you imagine if the US attacked Iran now and destroyed their intended 12000 targets??!! I think the US can can afford making 70 million less enemies if we can help it. Having a rich history and deep rooted culture and traditions, Iranian psyche can never accept being humiliated, coerced, or talked down to and unfortunately as long as our politicians here only want to “shock and awe” them with bombs not much will change. Thank you for the courage and initiative to take this giant step in the right direction, I am very impressed by your sense of realism from the interviews I have seen. And thanks to the Public Television for making this show possible. It would possibly offend or scare advertisers and definitely those who benefit geopolitically from the ongoing hostilities had it been otherwise. Let’s hope for humanity and peace to prevail.

  60. Wonderful program. The comment posted by Mr. Ali Kimiai is not correct. There is no chance for Mr. Reza Pahlavi to go back to Iran and become Shah. If Prince Charles from Britain(and at least he is a real Prince) may come and take over the government of United States then Mr. Pahlavi may go and become Shah too. People of United States chose to be free and they chose to elect a president and they did so. We better than any nation understand how it feels to be free and not to have a King. There is a time for moving forward. People of Iran chose to have a republic. They chose to vote. One may consider their current government good or bad. No matter what it is what their majority have voted for. Much better than government of Egypt, which our government dearly supports but has a dictator who calls himself President for life. Who was that president of USA who said about a similar dictator “That guy is a S.O.B. but he is our S.O.B.” It is clear that the majority of people in Iran do not wish to have a Shah. We have to respect their will and extend a hand for friendship. Clearly we hurt them first and we hurt them hard. It is time to appologize, release their frozen assets in our banks and start a fair relationship. I wish that my children travel to Iran proud, holding their heads up, not as people who pay taxes used for aggresive action against other people. God bless America and Iran.

  61. Hi Steve, You do not need to win on this issue that day will come for Armenians, Greeks etc. My question for you if you have freinds of Armenian decent why won’t you take a trip to Armenia? I always wondered about this which never seen in your shows. They are great people and hospitable. If you want to be fair on this issue and not to show favoritism take a trip to Armenia just a suggestion I am sure you will enjoy it great people and great foood.

  62. Rick, I think we need nationalized health care, and I am very concerned about the influence big pharma wields over the medical system. But I was surprised when you said, “One of my big fears is that my doctor will get me on some prescription medicine for the rest of my life in part because it is profitable to him (or the medical industry in general) for me to take that drug.” No matter what medical system we had, we all need to take responsibility for our personal health. If a doctor prescribes me something I am going to make damn sure that I read up on it, that I watch how I feel while I’m on it, and that I explore alternatives. Nobody can put you on a medication, temporarily or forever, without your implicit and explicit consent.

  63. Weird. I commented on the health care post and it got shunted to this entry instead when I had to re-enter the captcha. Sorry!

  64. Actually, those hats are called mitres, if I’m not mistaken Mr. Steves. Anything to avoid using that other name…Can’t imagine the crowds, the streets in Old Toledo are narrow as it is. At least it kept cars off those streets (hopefully)–I nearly got hit twice on my daytrip there. Stay safe,from one Road Scholar appeciating Good Friday for more than a day off to another…oh, if anyone wishes to see a sampling: http://s390.photobucket.com/albums/oo345/Alhambra17/?albumview=slideshow

  65. Rick this blog gives real range to religious thought. Great responses, all over the map. Typcal viewpoints show wide religious backgrounds, or none at all. Religion should, I think, find a place in general education, perhas connected with philosophy/clear comunication study. Do not see you knocking a religious viewpoint but I have a rather broad personal background/study of the subject myself. I do not feel threated by clear poined understanding of facts as you have seen/expereienced in spain. Thanks again for a super commentary starter. Larry from springfield.

  66. Thanks for the updates! My wife and I will be honeymooning in Italy starting next weekend. I’ve been a fan since I saw your Iran show. My wife is Persian by birth and had just visited Iran for the first time a year ago. You’ve inspired us to go off the beaten path a bit, and instead of doing the Rome/Florence/Venice/Tuscany path, we’re headed south through Amalfi and into Puglia.

  67. I had just arrived at Charles De Gaulle airport on my first trip to Paris and we were on the runway waiting for the bus to take us to the gate. Well there was a holdup and older man wearing a baseball cap and a jacket with the stars and stripes on it (The whole jacket was the US flag ) started yelling “come on already let’s go!) his wife elbowed him and his response was “what? They are French they don’t like us anyway!!!” I couldn’t believe my ears!!! I’m sure that he gave all Americans a bad image no matter where he went. Actually, I would have loved to have followed him around Europe, I’m sure that he made a total ass out of himself.

  68. Rick’s candor about the economy’s impact on pleasure travel lends even more credibility to his own business philosophy which appears to focus heavily upon example-setting, high expectations of employees and honesty with customers. Uncertainty does play a role in spending decisions, especially on discretionary expenditures. My own recent travel indicates that, at least anecdotally, the U.S. economy is a long way from recovery despite officials and institutions that are shaking their collective pom-poms in hopes of cheerleading a recovery. The silver lining in this severe recession is that travel providers now seem much more sensitive to customer needs and expectations. When the party goes on uninterrupted for too long, sloppy business practices develop and customers encounter rudeness, gouging and indifference from businesses and employees, perhaps because they are overworked and underpaid and under appreciated – but often because owners and managers begin to treat customers as never ending “numbers” rather than as valued clients who certainly will tell their friends about favorable (and especially about unfavorable) treatment. It appears our economy has more than one more shoe to drop before legitimate prosperity sets in. We will probably rebound in the next two years but beware of false dawns. Bill Kester

  69. I’ll figure out this RS blog reply system if it’s the last thing I do. Where’s your guide when you need her? I’m very pleased to read that from Rick Steves’ perspective there appears to be a loosening of purse strings by North Americans. And maybe those who refrained from travel during the past year but who begin to spend again will observe what I have – that the silver lining in this very real and very painful recession for many is resulting in better customer service, more competitive prices and more effort to attract and keep business. If you can quickly name 10 people or businesses that gave you excellent value for your money during the past two years, you are way ahead of me. I can count 3 instances of exemplary performance -which we used to call customer delights. Two of them involved Rick Steves’ company. It may be that hoteliers, restaurateurs, docents, even entire cities and countries become jaded by having too much business? But when the well begins to run dry, they begin to once again get “religion” (pardon the mixed metaphor). Of course customers themselves are sometimes partly to blame because they are too tolerant. Or some are truly cranky not just demanding. But no matter that the customer is often wrong. He or she is always the customer. And here’s to the grumps, Rick. They are the customers most likely to effect change which benefits the rest of us. Bill Kester

  70. If my daughter were in Spain and Portugal and she wasn’t blessed with a dad who has contacts and, respectfully, affluence – and she had a problem, I’d refer her to Rick Steves’ guide, Helen Inman. Inman is one of those rare birds who seems calm and serene on the surface but is paddling furiously beneath. And my co-travelers who have taken 4,5,6 and even 7 RS tours told me they thought Helen was the best guide they ever had. Nobody likes to be put on a pedestal of course. It’s embarassing except for those who are comfortable with themselves. But there is nothing more gratifying than recognizing someone who Others perceive as having grace under fire/pressure. As a Vietnam-era veteran, I know a swan when I see one. Bill Kester, Pendleton, SC

  71. Hey Rick! Trusting you come back to your blogs occasionally to see what’s been added lately, I hope you will talk a bit about your customer’s requirement to obtain a visa for Russia when traveling on your Helsinki, Estonia, Russia tour. Cruise ships arrange a visa for you if you are traveling with their groups’ excursion to St. Petersburg, for example. If RS ETBD did the leg work for me for the visa, I’d strongly favor taking that tour with your company. (Sorry about the first dog Bo analogy but he IS Portuguese and he does feel all species should “get along.” Thanks in advance for addressing the issue of inconvenience and time constraints in obtaining a visa for the Russian leg of the tour. Bill Kester

  72. I have to admit that the comments about Estonia’s countryside so far do not excite me. Sounds a bit like East Germany just after the wall came down. But Tallinn itself is reputed to have some of the most original architecture in that part of the world. The guide’s stories about Estonian women being a good match for Italian men was amusing and it might be entertaining to read an RS book titled Quest For The Best, subtitled: “Women Worth Emigrating For (Country-By-Country”). Then the Beach Boys could write a song about them to the tune of Aruba, Jamaica – oh i want to take ya. Could be a whole new business model.

  73. The “Italian restaurant” syndrome can be partly explained by the famour Italian actress Ornella Muti — who is half Estonian by background. If Italians consider her “the most beautiful woman in the world” in many polls, you can see the motivation! Having lived in Estonia for many years and having integrated into their culture, it is such a magical place beyond the superficiality.

  74. I just read an interesting excerpt of a book about how not to act old (like not using a watch to tell time – that is so old – but rather your cell phone). It also said that the old cool trip destination for 20-somethings to Europe was the Provence with its lavender fields and stone villas and villages. Now the cool trip destination for young people is Berlin because of the hundreds of artistic events, clubs, theaters, bars, etc. in town, probably including those beach chairs you saw along the Spree River. They surmised the next destination might be Slovenia or something [Bohemian] like that. I wonder what Steve’s take on this is.

  75. Worried about Cameron and Monica? Have you noticed how difficult it is to give a compliment to a member of the opposite sex? It’s immediately suspect. She is too pretty. He is too handsome. Doesn’t matter if either is highly competent or accomplished or gets other accolades from others. It’s all about, oooohhh, you are male – she is female, or,I am female you’re male. How relevant is this concept? Very! People disparage those who are suspect. Forget credentials. Forget good intentions. Just watch out for the lynch mob. But luckily it’s mainly U.S. travelers who see the world only thru the prism of sex.

  76. I vote for Mediterranean Moments, Meanderings, Medley, or Delights. Please not ‘serendipity’ —sounds like Dippity Do hair product! =:-o

  77. Being in the Physician Recruiting business I see the good, bad, and the ugly of the American health system. I believe a hybrid system that incorporates private insurance and a public option/expansion of medicaid/care will help patients and Physicians bring costs down. I also think some sort of opening of the state borders on insurance plans must happen, much like a 529 plan you can buy for you kids. There are so many complex issues in this area it is difficult to sort them all out. There must be an easier way.

  78. Yeah, that’s convenient. You call those numbers (BTW, they aren’t “my” numbers, they belong to the best-known polling group in the world)”meaningless” because they disprove your point… 96% of the world (and an even higher percentage of Europeans) don’t “deep down… want to be us.” Convenient, and all too typical. I guess it’s true, as Colbert famously said, “the facts have a well-known liberal bias.”

  79. Rick – I, too, would like to see pdf copies of the chapters of your guidebooks for display on my iTouch. Next spring I am planning a bicycle trip in France and am always concerned about weight. I recently purchased and downloaded the Lonely Planet’s Cycling in France which is available as pdf files for each chapter – pick and mix the chapters as your individual travel plan dictates. I would also suggest that any maps in a chapter be made available as a separate pdf files for speedy zooming and manipulation.

  80. I read the article to which, I believe, Mr. “Boston” was referring, and I don’t think it depicts Rick as a pothead or a proponent of drug use. It doesn’t detail Rick’s views on reforming marijuana laws (which is what he seems to advocate, as opposed to marijuana use), but it does say that he is a hard-working, successful businessman who happens to smoke pot. As far as I know (via Rick’s blog entries, newspaper articles, public appearances, etc.), Rick has never advocated or promoted the use of marijuana; rather, he has been encouraging people to view addiction to marijuana as a health problem instead of a criminal problem, to realize that marijuana use is a personal choice (just as alcohol consumption is a personal choice), and to promote its decriminalization. He also says that, like alcohol use, when it is abused or affects one’s safety or the safety of others, there should be legal consequences. Although it is perfectly Mr. “Boston’s” right to take his money elsewhere and to stick to his beliefs, to get up-in-arms about Rick’s personal choices that are not related to how he runs his business and to deny himself the opportunity of a great travel experience with Rick’s company is the Boston man’s loss, not Rick’s. Whether or not I am in agreement with Rick’s personal recreational philosophies, I know that I can always rely on him and trust his judgment when it comes to European travel and experiences because he is among the best at what he does. I have greater repect for a person like Rick, who promotes cultural awareness, open-mindedness and learning, over someone who makes snap judgments without knowing his opponent’s true stance on a subject and who cannot articulate his view without improper spelling, misuse of grammar and lack of punctuation.

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  83. I can relate to this family. We are family of enthusiastic travelers. My 14, 11 and 3 year old kids contribute enthusiastically to our travel decision making. My son was 6 months old when we took him to a trip to Spain. He has traveled to 9 countries and is not 4 yet. Instead of buying toys he throws tantrum for flying on airplane to go to Malaysia or Singapore (last places we traveled). My 14 and 11 year old daughters have a much better understanding of other cultures than what I had when I was their age, which will result in more tolerance for others. Mark Twain once said, “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” And I believe him.

  84. Alran, Perhaps if you took some of the Haterade (sic) out of your commentary, you might actually have some credibility

  85. Alfran glad you asked. I am starting a new Political Party. Not Democrat, Not Republican, Not Independent, Not Tea Party. It’s called the “PISSED OFF PARTY” (or POP) and I am addressing all 535 voting members of the Legislature.

  86. Does World Vision work closely with Bread For the World? It would seem like a logical partnership. We contribute to Compassion International which is another organization that does great things and optimizes their contributions with as little bereaucracy as possible. I have enjoyed your shows for many years but enjoy them all the more knowing your conviction to feeding the hungry and helping the poor. My travel has been fairly extensive but limited to first world coutries for the most part and the amount of abject poverty surrounding every major city in Europe and within every major city in America is staggering. Matthew 25 always comes to mind as I take the train from Fiumicino to Trastevere through the shanty towns on the outskirts of Rome. Are we “goats” for traveling amongst this and not lending a hand? I suppose no more than we are “goats” for living amongst it and failing to lend a hand. Travel has made me more keenly aware of the vast need that exists in our world, but once armed with that knowledge is it not our obligation to act on it. Is not our soul in peril for failing to? Ironically the word I am being asked to input to verify if I am a human before I can post this comment is “shamefaced”.

  87. Great posts, for those who don’t get to Baden Baden, there are some great Spas in Austria. There are two fantastic ones in the Gastein valley at Bad Gastein and at Hofgastein. Both worth a visit, and thermally heated. The “Spa” bit is a naturist zone. Similarly at Tauern Spa Kaprun, close to Zell am See a new spa opens in November 2010, in a fantastic mountain setting. Enjoy

  88. Rick is quite right about the close relationship between the voice of the streets and who is in charge at the moment. Sadly, politics are so messed up in this country for decades. But Istanbul transcends all.. It is so magnificent that it makes you say “Thanks God, I live here to see this beauty”, even after a full day of traffic jam, and encountering nervous-all-the-time people. Because Istanbul is really one of the most unique, interesting and for me the most marvellous city in the world. If you have been here just for 2-3 days, and have been to all wrong places, I guess you wouldn’t understand why. But if you manage to be at the right places and see the right things, you will be mesmerised by its magic. It is hard for me to stop talking about Istanbul. And I’m so glad that here are a lot of people who actually experienced what I’m saying. Kathleen is quite right, get off the beaten track. There is a world to discover in Istanbul. Seriously. Here is my site if someone is interested in more detail: http://www.istanbulextralarge.com

  89. I cant believe that 100 bucks is going to make the difference on someone taking a trip that all ready costs about 6 or 7 grand for 2 with airfare… ..if its that tight maybe put the trip off ..so offer one price assume that all use a CC then when they don’t consider it found money

  90. in April of 2009 my husband and i visited Hallstatt, we stayed at gasthof simony in a room with a balcony holding two chairs and a small “table” The view was gorgeious we could see the boat cross the lake to meet the train and hear the trains coming before we saw them The town is very small and you can walk from one end to the other in about a half hour and if you go the opposite way from the catholic church and bone house you end up right along the lake again with beautiful views. By the way you don’t have to own a house with a view of the lake there are several gasthaus and even the ones on the side of the mountains have views over the roof tops. There is a path you can follow that goes along the top of the town to the parking lot and on up to the waterfalls with gorgeous views of the lake besides snipets of views of the living areas of the people in the houses. Also I loved the waterfall going through town all you had to do was listen for it and follow the roar. despite that we loved the peace an quiet. Especially sitting on our balcony with the little birds landing on the railing and watching the swans ducks and boats on the lake wondering about the structures across the lake and admiring the mountains still w/snow If you are looking for a lot of organized activities or night life it is not the place and two or three nights would be sufficient. We were too early for the funicular and salt mine trip the only problem we had was finding someone to check in with and the ice cream store next store didn’t seem to know anything about the gasthof The breakfast was more than ample and we enjoyed the fresh caught fish at another zimmer also mentioned in ricks book you paid by the wieght of the fish and the waiter volunteered when I wanted to order a different kind of fish that it wasn’t fresh caught and not as good as the lake trout we had had before The dining room had ivy growning inside that had come through the window sills candles on table GO off season

  91. I can’t speak for anyone else but for me Salema had the friendliest people most representative of the area. Unlike Vernazza or Hallstadt or Rothenberg or Manley (australia), the Jersey Shore or Port Townsend or Big Sur whose residents seemed to be seasonal transplants from Rome or Salzburg or Sydney et al trying to make a fast buck, the people of Salema had a distinctly “kind” quality about them. And most seemed appreciative of visitors rather than seeming to suffer thru their presence. I sensed that even our hard-working, conscientious guide felt she could let her hair down a tiny bit in Salema, Portugal

  92. Thank you Rick for your thoughts on the Camino De Santiago! I just finished “I’m Off Then – Losing and Finding Myself on the Camino De Santiago” by Hape Kerkeling! And wanted to recommend this book if you’d like to read a first-hand account of walking this historic “trod, trek, or trudge! How serendipidous to see your blog after randomly searching out this book to read. It was originally published in German and luckily translated into English. p.s. If you ever want to walk the walk Rick… I would LOVE to be a part of that tour! lol

  93. I think the secret is getting away from San Marcos/Rialto. I happened to arrive in Venice in June of the year there was a major art exhibit in the city. So it was even more crowded. I hated the first day trying to get through to San Marcos and then Rialto. However, the next day we started wandering back streets and neighborhoods and it was a delight. Venice became one of my favorite cities. It is just incredible. As Rick has said, wander around and get lost, that is the way to discover Venice.

  94. Yet, despite all of the 'natural' tragedies (agree that 9-11 doesn't belong in that group) and concomitant loss of life mentioned by Rick, the world is on target to have a population of 9 billion people in 2050. The rate of starvation in the Third World continues to be exacerbated by overpopulation, as well as by corrupt government officials who withhold food from their own people, in some cases because it is genetically modified (oh oh, another 'hot button' issue for some of you!). And don't forget that as China's standard of living continues to rise, so does its need for more food and natural resources. In addition to having to provide 50% more food on less tillable land in the next 40 years, the world must come to grips with the its unchecked population growth! I am not suggesting in any way that the tragedies mentioned by Rick should be downplayed, or even dismissed, in the context of world population growth; only that despite this horrific loss of life, the rate of human births continues to greatly outpace the rate of human deaths on our planet.

  95. "one big aphrodisiac/endorphin-producing meal, and it showed on our faces.", just what every father of a beautiful single 20 year old daughter longs to hear, especially when said daughter is nearly 7000 miles from home. That's why they make gray hair. Keep enjoying the trip Rick.

  96. I just got back from a 2 1/2 week long vacation in Europe…Paris, London (King's Sutton), Budapest and Prague. In fact, the first evacuation of Le Tour Effeil occured I think the day before my flight to Paris. Every once and again I'd check in on the Net, and that's how I found out about the alerts. But honestly, I believe it's a much bigger deal Stateside than it is on the Continent. All the other travelers from America I met were aware, but we all just went about our days. What else should we do? Of course, just being a stranger in a foreign land always leads me to look for anything as it is. My family had been extremely worried for me. Too much Anderson Cooper did that to them. Once we begin to give in to fear, then the terrorists win….have to say, Rick's blog title cracks me up; the editors of The onion would be proud.

  97. John: Let me respond to your display of unjustified arrogance: 1. I never mentioned per capita gun deaths. I said that Britain has a violent crime rate which exceeds that of America. My point there was that the US is not as dangerous and Europe not as safe as Rick's comments seemed to imply. Please work on your reading comprehension before replying to my posts. 2. As for my knowledge of the history of the early 20th century, I actually have a BA in history and have read many books on the subject. In case you did not know, the modus operandi for tyrants in the making is to disarm the citizenry to prevent violent dissent and challenges to their rule. Hitler's Germany for example banned ownership of firearms by Jews in 1938 as part of the early stages of the Holocaust. Seven million Jews would later perish in the Holocaust. Similarly, the Soviet regime passed a succession of laws from 1918 to 1925 banning firearms. Twenty million Soviet citizens were later killed by Stalin in the purges and famines brought on by him. I could go on and on. This is all historical fact and is not even debatable. So, before you criticize the historical knowledge of others, I would suggest that you first educate yourself. Try reading something other than Rick Steves or Mother Jones.

  98. I definitely agree that things get blown out of proportion by the media. There are many examples but the recent BP oil spill is going to be a classic. Oil washed up on Louisiana marshes but reporters standing on Pensacola beaches kept showing oil spill clips and ranting. Very little oil ever made it to Florida and what did was cleaned up almost instantly. Unfortunately, the hype killed the Florida summer tourist season and I suspect it will also hurt the winter season. Rick – hitting on guns, Obama and US-born Christian is just asking for flame throwers to show up. BTW, I loved your daughter's blogs.

  99. Rick, I am an American woman living in the Middle East, currently planning 3 trips in the next 3 months to 3 different EU countries. I brought my family here because it is a much safer place to raise children. And although I'm not particularly afraid of most places in the US, I feel safer and more comfortable traveling in Europe (where I have also lived, but pre-EU). There are a lot of people who agree with most of what you have said in these blogs. The myopic, whining (or screaming) fringe don't really want to travel outside of their comfort zones, so I'm a little perplexed by their presence here.

  100. As a neutral observer and traveller to both the US and Europe in 2010 we came home safely from both adventures. New York, DC and LA (albeit Disneyland) in Winter and Paris and Frankfurt in the Fall (autumn). In both cases our general rules for safe travel were: * keep an open mindful eye on your surroundings – gradually expand your safe zone, * blend in with the locals as much as possible – catch a bus or tram, or metro everyone else does it, * dont complain out loud – its probably a cultural thing anyway, and * don't attract attention – keep opinions to yourself.

  101. I was also in the Cinque Terre, in Vernazza, on 9/11 with another tour group. In fact, one of the couples had commented "they saw "Rick Steves in one of the shops." I had forgotten this, for soon after we boarded the train, our tour guide told us two planes had crashed into the Twin Towers. I thought two small planes must have collided and fell into the towers. Ha…little did I know. When we arrived at the hotel at our next destination, we were glued to CNN. It was an awful feeling to think we could not easily return to the US. As others have stated, the Italians and an English couple we met in Nice were very supportive and kind. I received letters from several of them when I returned to the US. When we were finally able to leave Munich for Atlanta, I was amazed at the stories I heard at the Atlanta airport. Tourists told stories about the wonderful people in Nova Scotia who had taken the stranded airline passengers into their homes. Some of the people gave up their own beds for their guests. One plane took up donations and established a scholarship, to express their gratitude.

  102. This was a great post! We had your guidebook and were staying a hotel in Manarola and they did not live up to the "Nuova Etica", so I'm glad that you dropped it from the book for this year. I was actually surprised at how rude they were towards you, especially because we had come to them because of your guidebook. They said that they don't have anything to do with the rates that you post. They said that "Rick Steves does not even come here anymore. He used to, but now sends two eighteen year old girls who just stay for five minutes and say the place is fine". We had such a good trip because of your Italy 2010 guidebook and was quite surprised and offended by a hotelier saying this stuff about you!!

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