Rome epitomizes the male-dominated Mediterranean world. Going to dinner with Chiara, a Roman guide and friend of mine who’s petite, blonde, and with a thin (almost cartoony) voice, I learned a lot. Chiara explained, “Italian men just can’t take a blonde seriously — especially one with a thin voice.” In fact, she refuses to guide Italian groups now that she knows American groups take her seriously.
Our target for dinner: Restaurant Fortunato, the kind of place with photos on the walls of the owner posing with fat and happy customers like Condi Rice, Tarik Aziz, Bill Clinton, and Ronald Reagan. Sitting down, we were immediately cased out by the businessmen and politicians who seemed to fill the place. I didn’t notice until Chiara explained. “About 20 percent of Roman women are blonde like me, but we’re still considered exotic.” When Chiara’s father takes her to dinner here, she enjoys the strange looks as other men fantasize about their relationship.
I wanted Signor Fortunato to understand that Chiara was much more than a good-looking blonde. I pointed to her head and said, “Fifty percent of my Rome guidebook came from this beautiful head.” He looked past her at me and said, “Bene, 15%.” It’s a man’s world in Rome.
Despite the lack of respect for women, the food was great. Chiara insisted on vignarola: artichoke, peas, and fava beans with bacon. It’s only available during a perfect storm of seasonality, with everything bursting with flavor. Vignarola is on the menu early this year. In fact, this year’s early spring is bringing confusion in Rome…old timers can’t remember ever seeing vignarola on the menu before Easter.
Chiara shared her thoughts on dining in the USA: “American food has to travel, look good, and be available all year. Italian food does none of that…just taste good. We Italians have never seen apples with wax. I even saw waxed lemons — shiny only in the USA. For Italians, your lemons are too uniform.”
Another Chiara observation: “An American can’t wait in a restaurant. They eat bread dipped in oil before the meal comes…as if to escape the actual meal. Talk, sip your wine, relax…the real food is coming…and worth the wait.” At Fortunato, that’s especially true.
A blue-eyed blonde female having male challenges in Italy…hmmm. Would dying my hair red for my trip make a difference? If it’s a tall, dark and handsome man, all is well!
I travel with a small language dictionary. Good for such times to look up a quick “no” in Italian. Italy is a lovely country to visit. Thank you, Rick, for sharing your travels!
Hey Mr. Rick!
I’m thrilled your blog is up! I’ve been looking forward to this. I flew up to Edmonds from Texas to be at your Travel Festival. Yes, I’m that crazy chick!
I’m looking forward to reading much more of your blog. Andy’s blog is also fun to read. It does not surprise me he does not like Naples. I have not been there, and maybe like Andy says, I should save up my money on a better place. My parents didn’t like Naples either! I bet you are so proud of Andy! Nice to have some young blood around!!
I bought a trip to Berlin Germany for November, when it cheaper! Hearing the Berlin Philharmonic has been a big dream of mine. I hope to buy a concert ticket on line. I bet they sell out fast.
Well Mr. Rick, have a great time. I’ll keep checking back here!
Couple of questions for Rick….
1. Do you always identify who you are when researching or do you go incognito?
( I would imagine your legions of fans would make this difficult).
2. Any interest on your part to relocate to Europe one day or buying property? Wouldn’t it be easier if you had a second home??
Keep up the excellent work!!!!
Fred in Atlanta.
I feel very lucky to be be spending nine weeks in southern Italy this spring with four weeks left to go before returning to Seattle.
After my college age son and his friend met up with my husband and I in Rome last week for spring break I kept referring to my constant companion “Rick” our Rick Steve guidebook on Rome and Italy and after reading Andy’s blog I think it would be helpful if Andy had a section in your guidebooks for the college age person. My son would have loved a pub crawl and some other tips. Of course, we later left them in Rome for a night and then they took the four hour bus to Sorrento and stayed two nights. They took the boat to Capri and it rained all day and the people they met there were all old folks. When my husband and I picked them up on Saturday morning in Sorrento my son seemed like a different and enlightened person. They did okay and he did not lose his passport as he insisted on keeping in his pocket.
We just returned from Rome today and had a great trip. If you can, try Taverna Lucifero, Via Dei Cavalleri, 28 off the Campo dei Fiori. Excellent white truffle cuisine at taverna prices. Rustic, only serving meat and red wine, and especially gracious when our nearly 7-year-old son locked himself in the WC, requiring the owner to break down the door. Helpful Italian patrons cheered when he emerged unscathed and was plied with a handful of candies.
It was our first time using your guides and we found them very helpful – we’re looking forward using them again!
Ellen
I am very excited to read about your adventures you will have this summer. Instead of having too little money to travel, with a career and young children it is now time that is the concern. I look forward to living out my European travel dreams through your blog while sitting in my office in Texas.
By the way, I think Europe Through the Back Door needs to offer a Rick Steves bobblehead. I would love to have one.
Rick,
One little hint I don’t think you mention in your Rome section in regards to riding the buses is that you have to flag them. If you don’t and if no one happens to be getting off at that stop, the bus you want to get on might just cruise on by! Probably more of an issue on the less used lines, but also at “off times”.
Enjoy Roma. The wisteria have just started blooming and everything is spring green!
Wow Rick, your trip is almost about the same time I’m going to Europe, I leave in 12 days and I’m hitting London, Brussels, Amsterdam, Frankfurt, Milan, Rome and Naples. I got all the DVDs and the guidebooks. And I’m very prepared to go. I hope you have a great trip and I will read this blog daily :)
Hi,
Trying to find out dates to avoid during
Calcio Fiorentino and st john’s day in June. Don’t want to be in Florence during this busy time. Are the dates of the festival June 24 – 28. Have found
info stating the 4 or five days before June 24th are the days to avoid. What is your take on this.
Hi Rick,
Just catching up on your blog from this year, and read in your last post about your electronic gear – including the Nikon and new laptop. I was curious as to what brand/model laptop you carry, and how you typically use it to get online. As to your Nikon, after years of carrying little point-and-shoot cameras, I too have gotten a “serious” camera — Canon 30D, and was curious to hear how you drag yours around on your travels. Do you have a specific camera bag, or do you keep it in your day bag?
Cheers, Tom
PS If you have a small toilletries kit, would love to hear where you got it. I cant ever seem to find one small enough for me.
RE: Toiletries Kit (Ditty Bag)
The one quart ziplock bag holds more than I ever imagined. Sundry items can be purchased anywhere4 and it is nice to some different brands that are not available in the US.
Hey, Rick,
I’m also curious about your “gear.” I’ve been to Europe the last 4 summers with a little Canon 4 megapixel point-and-shoot digital and, though I’ve gotten some good snaps, I’m thinking about upgrading before this year’s trip. I’d like to know how you like your new camera, and whether you think there’s enough of a difference in image quality/photo opportunities to justify carrying all the extra gear that comes with an SLR.
Hope you’re enjoying Rome…one of the best meals I’ve had anywhere was at Paola’s trattoria, near the Largo Argentina, which you recommended (and still do, for all I know). Very accommodating and nice for a party of one. And the melon liqueur after dinner drink…wow.
Happy travels,
John
Hi Rick, I just got back from 3 months in Rome…wonderful place but needs a good scrubbing! Your book was a huge help. Among the legion of great eating places, we had a great Christmas dinner at Matriciano in the Borgo just north of the Vatican. Ever tried it? Ciao!
Dan McCarthy
Hi Rick,
My husband and I noticed on our last trip to Rome (7/2005) that in the Piazza Navona, if you look up at the bell in the tower of Sant’Agnese in Agone from Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers, you can see a face on the bell. We took a picture. It’s cool, check it out.
I need advice! My friend and I are going to Italy in October. We are leaving Rome on a Sunday to go to Tivoli and on the Orvieto. Should I pick up the car on Sat. and park it or pick it up on Sunday morning – how much of a hassle is that?
Second, we will be in Parma on Saturday and on to Venice that night. Should I drop the car in Bologna and take the train to Venice, or just drive in and drop it in Venice? What is easier?
I appreciate any comments! Ciao!
Sorry to hear the negative comments about Naples. It is a place that has exuberance and character, just different from central and northern Italy. I lived there for three years and have been back several times and once you learn the ins and outs of the place, there is a tremendous amount of history there. The National Archeological Museum should not be missed (especially before visiting Herculaneum or Pompeii).
Looking forward to more blogs from Europe. My husband and I are looking forward to ETBD trip to Ireland in August.
Ciao ragazzi.
I was always afraid to travel to a foreign country becuse I didn’t know the customs or traditions and because I was married for twenty years to a european who clued me in on how much the people in europe dislike amerians. But after watching many of your shows on PBS TV I gathered up the courage to travel to Spain, France and England. You were right, they are friendly as long as we treat everyone with respect, they will treat us as a special guest to their country.
Mary from Los Angeles, California.
This blog is loaded w/great information. Can someone recommend good, clean, inexpensive hotels in Sorrento and Positano. I will be there the week of 9/17. Thank you.
Thanks for pointing out how we Americans can get impatient waiting for our food. Pointing out things like this can help us all to not become the “Ugly Americans” that we keeping hearing about.
Ciao!
For Carla–Driving in Rome is hard and parking is worse. If it were me, I would pick up the car early Sunday when no one else is out on the streets yet.
As for Venice, the biggest thrill is arriving by train, and walking outside the station, and finding yourself surrounded by water. Its a sensation not to be missed. Divertiti (have fun).
Hi Rick, My new bride, Julia & I are leaving for Rome on April 24th….will be there for 4 days. How can we contact Chiara for a tour? Also, what do you think of Benvenuto Limos for private tours? Thanks, a fan, Gary from Orlando
Buon giorno Rick,
Currently I am taking an Italian language class for my first trip to Europe on a very short cruise with four Italian ports of call. Your 2007 Italy DVD and 2007 Italy Guide Book are proving to be invaluable resources, and I hope to take one of your tours in the future. What I would like to ask concerned your April 7 meal with Chiaro at Ristorante Fortuna. My Italian teacher, now in her 70’s, still teaches the language, cooks, bottles and sells her own Italian pasta sauce, and also teaches Italian cooking. She has never heard of “vignarola”. Any information you can send on “vignarola” would be greatly appreciated.
Arrivederci e mille grazie, TJ and Tulia
Rick,
Please forgive my spelling of Chiara’s
name and Ristorante Fortunato. Chiara,
like Tulia, are the spirit, heart and soul of Italy. Signore Fortunato should be “so fortunate” to be in Chiara’s 50%recommendation, not his 15%. He might not have made it!
Sincerely,
TJ
Rick, Can you suggest a good restaurant at which to have Christmas dinner in Rome? We will be in Rome Dec 22-26, 2008 and want to be sure we can have Christmas dinner someplace. Is it necessary to make reservations? Thanks
How can I find a reasonable taxi/limo/van to transport me from Rome (de la ville hotel)to Civitavecchia? The quotes I’m getting are scandalously high! Thanks