I’ve always wanted to go to a football (“soccer” to Americans) game in Europe. But it takes the better part of a day, and my research and filming schedule has never allowed it. Last Sunday, my son Andy and I finally got to see a game…courtesy of Stefano (who runs Hotel Oceania). It was Rome against Florence.
Converging on the stadium, Stefano parked on a curb (tipping a couple of thugs to watch — or maybe just not vandalize — the car). I find Rome’s stadium evocative: surrounded by Mussolini-era statues (each a stern and glorious fascist hero), and mosaics still heralding “il Duce” and showing the fascisti(“bundle of sticks” — so much stronger than a single, easy-to-break one).
They’re cracking down on football fan violence all over Europe, and real progress is being made at taming the stands. Stefano said this particular game was considered high-risk for violence, so a single purchaser could only buy three tickets, and they wouldn’t sell seats together (something he’d never encountered). In order to lower the provocative police presence at stadiums, legions of security “stewards” are posted everywhere. You must show ID to buy a ticket, each ticket has your name on it, and you must show ID proving the ticket is yours to get in.
As it turned out, it was a tame game. But the spirit in the stadium is almost comically mean-spirited. At American college football games, when a player is down on the field, silence falls over the stands as players get down on one knee and pray. In Italy, when someone’s injured, they chant, Devi Morire! — “You must die! You must die!” Then, when the injured player is carried off, they sing, “You’re coming back, you’re coming back…in B division.” Why? Injuries are routinely faked.
The area beyond the goal is filled with the cheap seats designed for the most avid fans — they stand and sing the entire time, waving huge flags and tossing firecrackers that sound like a cannon firing. Every so often, the loudspeaker reviews the various financial, criminal, and team penalties that come with violent actions and racist and outlawed slogans.
Stewards surrounded the small contingent of Florence fans like a riot squad. After the game, they stayed in their seats while the Rome fans departed. Then the Florentines were escorted safely to their awaiting buses to return home (in this case, sad after a 1-0 loss).
Rick, you and your son were lucky, things weren’t always so calm and quite in Italy. In AD 59 in the Pompeii Amphitheater at a gladiatorial show, there was a fight between the inhabitants of Nuceria and Pompeii. First they threw stones, then swords were drawn and many were wounded and mutilated. The Roman Senate prohibited Pompeii from holding any similar sports events for ten years. Sounds just like soccer matches in Europe these days. ……====…… Housing is scarce in much of Italy, we were told most young people don’t have their own apartment, but the Pompeii, Italy, campground has a few rooms for rent, by the hour. The well dressed young people in nice cars, were waiting in a long line to rent one of the rooms in this campground for an hour, or maybe after such a long wait, just a few minutes.
We caught a Football game in Siena by total chance. We booked a hotel (Rick Steves recommended) that overlooked the soccer field. It was truely amazing to take in…and not so much the game as much as the fans. From the beginning of the game until the end – the fans sang and sang and sang. There was never ever a lull. I don’t know what they were singing – but it seemed like a party to me. I feel extremely lucky that our balcony just happened to overlook that because we would have never seen that otherwise. I have to admit my deepest shame too…we were eating McDonalds. After two weeks of pizza and pasta and more olive oil than any human has a right to take in…I broke down. I just wanted something NOT soaked in olive oil. I didn’t care what. I don’t even eat McDonalds at home. I swear. Oh the shame.
Great to hear about this. I want to go to a football game too sometime. There’s a really interesting book called “How Soccer Explains the World: An Unlikely Theory of Globalization” by Franklin Foer. It’s been a while since I read it, but I still remember the part about young African footballers in the Ukraine. It was their first exposure to snow! Someday I’ll get to a game, but I think I’ll look for something in a smaller town!
Hey Rick! Thanks for getting back to normal blog entries (not about politics or naughty bloggers-myself included)! I must say that it’s hard to imagine the enormity of European . . . I mean, worldwide football, but I went to a game when I lived in Florence, Italy (fiorentina). Every game is like the Super Bowl. Emotions run so high. There’s no sport in the U.S. that even touches the popularity of football (soccer). You can put all the sports together and it still doesn’t compare. Anyhow, I encourage anyone that can get a ticket to a football game to do so. It’s an unforgettable experience.
I caught a game at Fulham in late 2006 in London and had a great time. English games are far tamer than the Italian Serie A and I applaud your bravery. It is clear, football in Europe can provide a very special atmosphere and unique experience. Any fan of sports needs to attend one of these matches to see what it’s all about.
I’m not normally a sports fan. However, that changed for the World Cup in Germany in 2006. It’s almost impossible not to get caught up in the excitement when there is a big tournament going on. For a month we watched football whenever a game was on and even filled in one of those magazine charts that showed who advanced and who did not. Years ago (early 1990s?) I went to an England vs Germany Game. Main memory was that I was shocked that the English fans were taunting the German fans with songs about WWII. English fans rioted afterwards and the “Big Green Machine” (German Polizei) disbursed them with water cannons. (I watched safely from a distance.) Anyway, I am REALLY looking forward to the European Championship that will be held in Austia/Switzerland this June. Tickets are hard to get, but they will have big screens set up at various spots arount Vienna. As Rick said, they have really worked hard to contain the rowdy fans, so I don’t anticipate any riots this time around. Best regards to all!
When we were in Lucerne last May we got to witness some of the soccer fanaticism first-hand. We didn’t know that there was even a match until we tried to take the train back to Kriens. The entrances to the train stations were blocked by heavily outfitted der politzei so that the opposing team could safely get home. We also saw the police with a huge water cannon spraying the crowd and chasing them with their huge van/paddy wagon to get people away from the main entrance of the train station. I have to admit that I was a little scared when a mob of people came running at us to escape the water cannon, but the police kept everything under control. We were finally allowed to pass by the guards at the train station entrance when I asked very politely in my best German (this was of course after all the major fuss had died down.)
Great entry. I would reccomend Tim Parks, “A Year with Verona” for a fascinating look at football obsession in Italy.
Last fall the England vs France rugby match took place while we were in Paris on a RS London-Paris tour. The match was projected on a huge screen at the base of the Eiffel Tower. Prior to the match we mingled with fans, it was a friendly, colorful crowd…I suppose violence could have erupted at any time but we did not feel threatened at all. Alas England won so we heard celebrating thru the streets of Paris all night long…we loved every minute of it!
Two years ago, I made a trip to Florence. I had contacted the owner of the B&B where I had stayed the year before, and was staying with again, asking him to get me a ticket to the Calcio (soccer) match. When I arrived, his wife (Paola) handed me an envelope. In it was Roberto’s (the owner) season ticket to the Fiorentina match. It turns our he is a huge fan and left me his ticket to go to the game! Needless to say it was a wonderful experience, thankfully no violence. I was suprised to see that they sequestered the visiting fans in a seperate area surrounded by plexiglass, barbed wire and security people. Also, that people were able to enter the stadium with flares! The best part was that Fiorentina won the match in the last seconds! The crowd went nuts!! I’ll never forget the experience. As an aside, Roberto refused to accept any reimbursement for the ticket, so on my last night, I left hime and Paola a bottle of Brunello. A great travel memory for me! Thanks for letting me share it.
I was in France during the world cup when Zidane and Materazzi went at it—I never realized that they could take it so seriously….the things I heard from the French were unbelievable…..I wonder did tourism from France to Italy decline that year? They are so loyal I wouldn’t be suprised…..
My second to last rome visit was a week etbd city tour. On that tour were a family, including husband and wife, son and daughter, and the husband’s mom. They loved everything, but especially the chance for father and son, a high school soccer/football player, to attend a roma vs milano (I recall) football game. They prepared with roma colored scarves, etc, got tickets via a contact, perhaps within the hotel, in advance. They walked to and from that game and loved every moment. They spent the next day talking about this highlight at breakfast. Just another good use of free time I find, part of every etbd tour. I spent such free time walking through central rome, visiting five church sites. Yes this is a plug, Rick, but could not resist. No commission necessary. Larry from springfield (or just larry.
One of the loudest events I ever attended was a soccer match between Frankfurt and Munich at Munich’s Olympic Stadium. Munich won the game and I had a great time.
We were in Cologne Germany in August of 2005 and we didn’t know that they were having one of the biggest games of the final season. So we had heard how great all the restaurants at the rail staion where, so went on over for lunch when we practically got run to the ground by the biggest roughest bunch of sports fans I have ever seen come running off all the trains from every direction. It is hard to believe how mild our sports fans are here! And the food wasn’t that good either! Judy
Dear Rick, I would love to watch a real football game in the stadium with my famiy just like you, what a fantastic experience for you and Andy. We were in Europe 2006 during the World Cup fever, we were totally caught up with their excitments, from the bars to the restaurent to the streets…you could see how nationalistic they become during those two weeks, was it three? The final game did not end up with a good note between Italy and France though.
Honestly, there may not be a bigger European football fan on here than me. I watch matches all the time from La Liga and the English Premier League. In the last week alone, I have watched the UEFA Cup, Champions League, FA Cup, Premier League, and La Liga. So this is right up my alley. Like Rick, I got to experience my first soccer game in Barcelona this past September. It was an awesome environment and the passion and excitement of the people there reminded me of college football growing up in the South. As a fan of European football, the Barcelona-Real Zaragoza game was one of the highlights of my entire trip to Spain and Portugal!
After the decades traveling through Europe, the most surprising thing about this post is that it was your first! I am studying abroad in Valencia, Spain this semester, and just bought a ticket for the Copa del Rey game. We’re hosting Barce! I hear there’s just nothing like a La Liga game, and it’s almost like I’m still missing out on a significant part of Spanish culture until I’ve been to one. I can’t wait! (And then, my spring break will be following some of your advice in Italy. Not a bad couple of weeks, huh?)
Sounds like a great experience. It reminds me of the futbol match I saw in Argentina between River Plate and Olympio except that security wasn’t that tight and the visiting fans left first while “us” River Plate fans sat in our seats and waited.
I’ve had the opportunity to attend several first league (1.Bundesliga) matches in Germany (Kaiserslautern and Stuttgart) and many matches in small villages (probably 8th or 9th level leagues) with my German son-in-law and his younger brother (a village team striker)and/or his dad and a big assortment of uncles and friends. What an event. Tops any sports event I have ever attened (with the possible exception of World Cup – 94 in Chicago). Lots of colorful characters singing and dancing in the streets. Total frenzy in the stadium. And the brats and bier are the greatest with no price gouging. I never felt threatened in any way. The big stadiums are very controlled. Inside you only get access into the section for which you have a ticket. I agree with one of the posts above – any sports fan who has the chance to see a European football match should take advantage of the opportunity. Most (probably all) German stadiums have ticket offices open every day with English speaking attendants
I prefer global politics to football/soccer.
I haven’t attended an overseas game but a fellow traveler in Parma told me of his experience. There was a game between a Dutch and Italian team (in Italy) and the difference between the two crowds was of note to and outsider. He remarked that the Dutch fans were getting wasted and having a chaotically boisterous time. The Italians were loud as well but more focused and organized, singing and chanting and all that. He said that the concession lines were telling…the only ones getting beer were the Dutch and the espresso lines were filled with Italians. I wish I remembered more of this story, like where the game took place and who won.
If you thought an Italian game was rowdy, you should try a derby (game between local rivals) in Istanbul sometime. I hope to have the (dis?)pleasure in a couple years. Anyway, Italian fans are notorious as some of Europe’s most violent — England, Spain, and others have just as good football and passion without the flares and roughing-up.
Rick, I’m glad you and Andy finally got to experience this wonderful mania for yourselves. I have been to Europe three times, been to at least one match every trip and couldn’t fathom a visit there without catching a match. It perfectly complements the museums, castles, food, etc., to complete the cultural experience. My 2006 trip was totally planned around the World Cup. Anyone who thinks Germans are all reserved should have been there. Every match, every town’s team, every stadium is different. And talk about connecting with the locals! The only thing that even comes close to the atmosphere is college football here. Great, great memories.
I would like to visit a soccer match in Spain (barcelona or madrid). Is there a company that arranges soccer trips from the US to Europe??? Have been looking for it on google, nothing to be found.