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| Checking in with my Norwegian cousin Kari-Anne and her husband Knute, we got a little dose of the Scandinavian good life — while filming the delightful Oslofjord. Enlarge photo |
Europe is moving beyond its old-time clichés, and I’m weaning myself from these too. In fact, my theme this year, in both TV production and guidebook writing, has been to purge things that are recommended just because they’ve always been there. Sometimes it’s difficult after decades of singing a cultural tune to realize the melody has changed. This year I find myself thinking, “That was big in the 1980s, but…” as I work to keep my take on Europe fresh.
In Norway trolls may still be in the shop windows, but they have no business in a guidebook or TV show. Goofy legends about modern-age buildings having roofs inspired by upturned Viking ships are out. Sweden used to be a porn capital — but so much modern-day freedom in that regard seems to have made that industry passé. I remember when the TV towers in Berlin, Stockholm and Oslo were as breathtaking as Seattle’s Space Needle. Oslo’s is now closed to the public and the others are barely advertised.
There was a time when travelers ventured to Stockholm and Helsinki to see planned suburbs like Farsta and Tapiola — suburbs that organized people as if in juke boxes…and people clamored to get in. No one even talks about these places anymore. In the 1980s it seemed every other tourist in Helsinki was an architect, there to marvel at the modern buildings. Today Helsinki’s once-striking Finlandia Hall, by Alvar Aalto, is only striking out. I’ve always listed the Kon-Tiki Museum in Oslo as a must-see. It was one when it captured the imagination of would-be sea adventurers a generation ago. Today, the museum seems to be going the way of the log boat.
I have also realized that I need to be careful not to romanticize the nobility and intelligence of a people I’m predisposed to be impressed by. It’s so much fun to bump into entire societies that are both good-looking and seem to have it all figured out. You could travel through a place like Norway and think everyone was brilliant and beautiful. But seeing racks of National Enquirer-type tabloids in Bergen — papers as cheesy and idiotic as ours and England’s — reminds me that no society is immune from low-brow culture; there’s a huge market for that everywhere.
Having spent more time in Scandinavia this summer than ever before, I enjoyed a great chance to reconnect with my wonderful relatives. My uncle Thor in Sandefjord is a patriarch with beautiful grandchildren galore. My cousin Kari-Anne is a publisher with a fascinating circle of friends; she lives in Oslo, enjoying the best of Norwegian big-city life. And Hanne, the baby I held while watching the first moon landing, has three kids old enough to stay up late and contribute to our conversation.
Ten years ago, while filming in Bergen, Hanne kept sneaking into our shots. In Norway, she said, those obnoxious types who always try to get into the picture are called “lens lice.” I asked her if she’d like to be a part of the new show we’re filming, and she said, “My lens lice days are over.” (While I strongly disagree, I didn’t argue.)
I spent an evening with Hanne’s family enjoying the fun conversation. We talked about the challenges modern Norway has with immigrants. In this Lutheran corner of Europe, they explained, everyone enjoys the freedom to practice their religion, as long as the practice doesn’t violate Norway’s constitution, which guarantees a range of human rights — including women’s rights, gay rights, and children’s rights (e.g., parents are forbidden to beat their children). Fathers are intimately involved in parenting. In fact, throughout Scandinavia, rather than “maternity” leave, new moms and dads share 16 months of paid leave (dividing it as they like).
Hanne’s kids sat attentively as they soaked up the conversation. Hanne’s 13-year-old daughter speaks English so well that she played a game speaking American with her mom and British with her dad (as that’s how each speaks English with her). I asked her about cigarettes, alcohol, and marijuana. She said she and her friends had no interest in any of that. She explained that the government tried the “bad for your health” line in their education campaigns, and it was worthless. Then the schools started teaching that cigarettes made your skin ugly, stained your teeth, and gave you bad breath. They taught that alcohol lowers your metabolism, making you get fat more easily. This appeal to teenagers’ vanity, rather than their health, was by all accounts wildly effective.
By my small survey, I’ve found that throughout Norway and Sweden there’s extremely little interest in marijuana. People just don’t seem to even be intrigued by it. On the other hand, among young people (other than my relatives, of course), it seems that casual sex is rampant.
I have my vices though, and so does my film crew. We like a good drink after a day’s work. With the cost of alcohol here, we drink beer when we’d normally have a glass of wine. (A glass of beer here costs what a glass of wine would cost elsewhere, and wine costs much more.) And we got addicted to dropping by the ubiquitous convenience stores for a box of Iskaffe (iced coffee) — available for 19 krone ($3), the cost of a reasonably priced latte in a café. I am still fascinated by how this affluent corner of Europe seemingly prices so much of its populace out of restaurant going. Convenience stores fill the gap for people without much money — providing cafeteria lines of whatever you need, to be munched on benches or on the fly.
I am waiting for Ireland 2010 to come out, we are going in May. I can’t wait to see the changes you have made this year in your guide books!
I’m making my tenth trip to Scotland this week and was having similar thoughts about how the country had changed. THis blog inspires me to open my eyes and ears and really look for the changes that have happened since I renewed my acquaintance with Scotland 11 years ago. Thanks for the suggestion. Pam
Rick, next month travel takes me briefly to greece, followed by two weeks in turkey. I’ve been twice before to turkey, in 1986 and 1999. Those previous visits varied mainly because of new, clear, city growth, modernized infrastuctures of roadways and public transit. The people were, however, equally friendly, hospitable and welcoming to this american on both trips. Over the last 10 years more growth has come, yet I wonder if they will still be as friendly. And will I be as open, and accepting as before? I hope neither I, or they will see each other in any way differently. Larry from springfield
Europe is moving beyond its old time clichés and I’m weaning myself from these too. Like clogs, gabled roofs and windmills in the Netherlands? Although you undoubtably see these, when I think of more representative image of the country is tech-savy hypermodernism.
If the Foro Romano ever becomes labeled “cliched”, I’ll never pick up another Rick Steves’ book! LOL. Just kidding! Seriously, great work as always. I hope to get to Scandinavia someday. I’ve always been intrigued by their culture, and how overlooked it is by most tourists.
It is refreshing to read these lines… there will always be ‘classics’ that one cannot go by without seeing, but so often, guidebooks give you the same ol’ same ol’… I was in Scandinavia in 2003 and I’m planning to go back next year! Can’t wait to see it with new and refreshed view!! Enjoy your family!!
Careful about who or what you call British. There is no such thing as a British language or accent. You can choose from English, Scottish or Welsh and perhaps toss in some Northern Irish for the purists. Each of these has a multitude of dialects and accents of its own. An Englishman will forgive you if you call him British, a true Scotsman, never.
Rick, I spend about 3-4 months a year in Europe and always find your work extremely interesting and informative. I think you do a great job of balancing old with new in your stories. As a long time musician I sometimes pick up gigs when I am in Europe. I have been striking out on trying to rent music gear in Europe for an upcoming tour. Any inside information on music equipment rental in Munich or Stockholm? Surprisingly I keep coming up empty on the web. I am looking forward to my visit to Sweden – an overdue first. Thanks for the overview. Ted
Some cliches now adversely affect trip planning. Your videos and guide books suggest taking night trains to save a day for sightseeing at the destination. You now must distinguish clearly between trains that run at night and trains that provide sleeping compartments. SNCF does not provide sleeping compartment service within France. They are no longer needed. The trains are too fast and frequent. Taking a night train is like taking a night flight, except that coach seats on a train support slightly more comfortable sleeping upright than do airline seats. Further, I have heard mentioned that France is considering eliminating in-country airline routes for environmental reasons and because high speed rail service is now a solid fact of life.
Night trains are still appropriate for some trips. My husband and I have reservations (for October) on a night train from Barcelona to Madrid. The couchettes are bunks in a 6-passenger “cell” that will allow us to sleep a little, but the frequent stops on this route will be disruptive, no doubt. We board at 10:20 pm and arrive at 7:20 am the next day. We also have a TGV train ride in France, so it will be a well-rounded experience of train travel in the 21st century.
We were in Stockholm walking through Gamla Stan and we heard you were in town! We were heading from the Royal Palace towards the areas oldest coffee shop and saw you filming in a restaurant right off the beaten path. I hope you enjoyed your trip. We were in Stockholm for a wedding and just loved the city. We then went on to Oslo, did Norway in a nutshell, and then finished up in Copenhagen. The Tivoli Gardens are great. We went on the high swings, which I must say are a bit scary. Safe Travels!
Hey!!! A previous writer wrote “there is no such thing as a British language or accent.” Some of the nicest,smartest,most productive people I have ever met talk like Brits – cause they are. Several live in the U.S. One lives in Canada. One lives in Brazil. One lives in South Africa. I admire them all AND they are ALL from England. (I like the one who lives in Brazil most.)
While I too think most of the U.S. government’s attempts to police morality amount to money thrown away, I will add that when I went to school they also taught that cigarettes stained your teeth (and fingers) and made your skin ugly. That didn’t stop kids from embracing the habit. In fact, I recall them pushing that tactic long before tried all the dire health warnings.
Cigarette smoking is not a health issue. It is better understood as a health issue.