Returning to Europe, I worried that Denmark would pale after my recent Croatian experience. My first day here dispelled that concern. While Denmark has its castles and cute towns, the real experience here is the Danish modern spirit and how it copes with today’s challenges.
Wandering into an empty, sleek train car, each seat was marked “kan reserveres.” I figured that meant “not reserved,” and sat down. Then I was bumped by a friendly guy with a reservation. He said, “The sign means ‘could be’ reserved…we don’t promise too much.” Noticing several young men with shaved heads and the finest headphones listening to MP3 players on their train commute to work, I thought Denmark seemed so minimal and efficient…and so together.
Every time I politely ask, “Do you speak English” (still thinking it’s bad style to assume Europeans will speak my language), I feel silly. “Of course” is the standard answer. Thriving Copenhagen has a thin veil of tourism. Behind that, locals really do eat open-face sandwiches. Even though the country’s eateries must be smoke-free by next August, people smoke with attitude in traditional cafés. (By law, smaller places can be exempt — so many local pubs are cutting down their “usable floor space” by adding pool tables and big furniture in order to get around the law and keep the smokers.)
I find having a bike parked in the garden of my hotel is a great way to fit in and literally “go local.” Copenhagen has as many bike lanes as car lanes, and I can literally get anywhere in town faster on my two wheels than by taxi.
Today’s big-city Denmark — which is far from blonde — has me thinking about immigration. I’m a grandchild of immigrants. Three of my grandparents sailed away from the old country speaking only Norwegian. My family assimilated.
 |
|
Enlarge photo |
With modern communication allowing “diasporas,” where communities of foreigners settle in more comfortable places with no interest in assimilating, “melting pots” have become cafeteria plates with separate bins. I know Algerians who’ve been three generations in the Netherlands and are still enthusiastically Algerian, raising their children with barely a hint of Dutch culture. I am three generations in the USA. While I have kept my grandparents’ religion and eat fish balls and goat cheese, I can barely say hello in Norwegian. While proud of my heritage, I am American.
At Copenhagen’s City Museum, I met a Pakistani Dane. He talked earnestly of the exhibit like it was his city…as if his ancestors pioneered the place. Thinking of assimilation, I got emotional. Surprised at being choked up, I was struck by the beauty of a Pakistani Dane.
Am I wrong to wish that a Muslim living in Denmark would become a Dane? Am I wrong to wish the USA would speak English rather than Norwegian or Spanish? Am I wrong to lament districts of London that have a disdain for being British? Immigrants energize a land — and they do it best when their vision is a healthy melting pot. Melt, immigrants…treasure your heritage while embracing your adopted homelands.
Rick you are simply the best at what you do,,,,, but be careful you are starting to sound a bit Limbaughish with your talk of an English speaking America and assimilation. I am very much looking forward to our Scandinavia in 14 daystour in August. Your blog could not be more timely. Blessings to you and the family and prayers to your Father.
You aren’t wrong to think these things at all. Immigrants are great, they can add a lot to a culture and America is a great example of this. But it’s important for immigrants to assimilate into the local culture. This is true in America, the UK, Denmark or anywhere.
Well said Rick…I completely agree on the immigrants topic. Interesting isn’t it, that this has become a global issue and not just ours in the US. Why do they move if they still want to pretend they are “back home”… oh yea…for the benefits we pay for them! Glad to have you back on the road so that I can “keep on traveling” from my armchair this summer!
I agree Rick. My grandparents immigrated to the USA only speaking German. It was a matter of pride to them that they learn English and become “American”. That didn’t mean that their own history was forsaken or forgotten, but they wanted to be part of the country that adopted them and speaking english was a visible part of that process. Thanks for the great videos. My husband travels around the world on business often, but we never get tired of watching you interact with the local people.
But there is something else going on here. I don’t pretend to know what it is but I am referring to some kind of a general internationalization. Of course people immigrate for different reasons and they travel for different reasons but you can’t help but notice that many of the old barriers built by nation states are changing. Interesting to me that many of the latino immigrants come to America and don’t learn English easily yet English is becoming more common in Europe – not so they can speak to Americans or Englishmen but to other Europeans. Part of the problem in losing the traditions of the past is simply disuse and having no ready way to collect and categorize them. Then when you go back to find them they are buried. African-Americans and American Indians are now doing some of this collecting and categorizing. Several video and audio recordings in America are trying to do the same thing by interviewing elderly people. John
I very much like Brick Lane in London and try to visit immigrant-heavy neighborhoods everywhere I travel. There’s a sense of active formation of culture that some older parts of town lack–even to the point of feeling stagnant. My grandparents grew up speaking German in German farming communities in the US, and I seriously regret that they decidede not to pass on that heritage to my parents. (Especially since I find it hard to hang on to their Catholicism.) This is not to say that immigrants should wholly forsake the culture they’ve joined, but some degree of resistance is healthy. Perhaps Canada is a better model than the assimilate-or-be-ostracized US.
I’m afraid I agree with Ken Krueger above. Lately you have sounded like a rich middle-aged conserative, not at all like the budget travel person I have followed for so many years. I doubt that budget travel is not how you travel any more. Please keep thinking like the common man. We count on you.
Rick I love that you are not afraid of speaking your opinion! It’s what makes your guide books so great and reliable. Don’t worry if someone thinks you’re “Limbaughish.” Keep speaking your mind! One of the great things about being able to post a comment is the ability it gives us to express our opinions. I personally value your opinion and am glad that you take the time to express it.
Okay, what’s a fishball? I haven’t been to Denmark yet. The world is a global community on the rise.
Appreciate your insights and comments. While the world is indeed changing at warp speed, no matter what country in the world you are talking about, there is a word for immigration without assimilation. It’s called invasion.
I agree with you…I have the same thoughts. I don’t understand the point of moving to another country and NOT learning the language, customs, etc. Isn’t that part of the experience? And even if you weren’t there for fun, wouldn’t it make it easier? If I ever move to Italy, you can bet I’ll get fluent fast (moving there is the only way I ever will get fluent!), and eat my share of Italian food! My grandparents assimilated so totally that none of their kids actually spoke Italian (although they could understand it). I wish they’d hung on to a little more of Italy, but I’m glad they became Americans. And, finally, the last person you sound like is Limbaugh!
Of course you aren’t wrong to wish whatever you want. I wish I was ten pounds lighter and ten years younger. But I wonder if the melting pot analogy has ever been true. Maybe it’s always been more of a TV dinner. Every group starts out in their own separate compartment and sometimes some gravy gets sloshed in with the carrots or some peas jump into the potatoes.
Rick: Although I love your travel guides, I think you’re somewhat off here. Here in America, assimilation is relatively easy. But you (of all people) should realize how much tension there is in Europe between native Europeans and immigrants. Assimilation is a two-way street, and you can’t ask immigrants to become fully assimilated when there is widespread xenophobia and institutionalized racism. As a second generation American, I agree with you that immigrants should learn the language and culture of their new country; however, I believe that you are grossly oversimplifying the problem. Comparing the fate of an Algerian in Europe to your white, Christian family coming to America is disingenuous.
A man we talked with in Copenhagen told us the Danes complain that in the US, we don’t treat our millions of immigrants the way the Danes say we should. He then added, “But this is Denmark, we don’t want any immigrants.†While on a cruise ship sailing from Athens, we noticed most passengers tended to congregate with others from their own country. It’s also obvious the English are different from the Germans, who are different from the French, who are different from the Italians, who are different from the Greeks, who are different from — whoever. Viva La Difference! That’s diversity as it is intended to be, from country to country, not the phony diversity of people going to another country, and taking their culture with them, and refusing to assimilate. We spent a month in Greece and said the Greece are the friendliest ever. But when we visit Nuremberg, Frankfurt, Copenhagen, Stockholm, etc., the Greeks are a problem, because they have not assimilated.
Assimilate-to conform or adjust to the customs, attitudes, etc., of a group, nation, or the like. If the above means that I am to respect the customs, culture, laws, and native citizens (most of whom are descendants of immigrants themselves, but so easily forget this fact) of my adopted home, then this immigrant to the USA is all for it and is already practicing same. However, if you’re asking me to leave my own culture behind, forget where I come from, or “hide it” so that I become indistiguishable from the everyday “Joe American?” Then you’re dreaming. To expect this of any immigrant is to expect the impossible. But, to learn the language and become familiar with your adopted nation’s culture should be expected of the immigrant. To not do so is simply disrespectful….
No, you are NOT wrong to wish that a Muslim living in Denmark (for three generations, no less) becomes a Dane, you are NOT wrong for lamenting that districts of London have a disdain for being British and you are NOT wrong for wishing that immigrants to the U.S. learn to speak English. Nor are you ‘Limbaughish’ — what a disgusting appellation. You are simply suggesting that a nation’s immigrants do exactly what you do on every trip you take and write about — which is learn something about the culture in which you are living (even if temporarily) and treat that culture with the respect it deserves. No matter where you may be. If any of us are unwilling to do that, we ought to just stay home. Karen
A man we talked with in Copenhagen told us the Danes complain that in the US, we don’t treat our millions of immigrants the way the Danes say we should. He then added, “But this is Denmark, we don’t want any immigrants.†Am I going a bit wobbly or was the above quote removed from your original blog? If indeed you did receive this comment and posted it to your blog I believe you should have allowed it to remain as it does illustrate a not uncommon way of thinking in many of the EU countries we have visited. Example: While taking the Best of Europe tour Mohammed Bouyeri (the Islamist who shot, slashed the throat and pinned a letter with a knife to the chest of Theo Van Gogh) was found guilty of murder and a terrorist act. He was sentenced by a Dutch court to life in prison. Our Dutch guide who had criticized many USA policies earlier was wishing Bouyeri could be sent to the USA and be executed. Yes capital punishment was on her list of USA evils the previous week.
Are you aware of the REAL Id Act and its implications for all Americans, both at home and abroad? http://www.aaro.org/
Eric – Jul 08, 2007 1:48 AM That quote you highlighted and repeated in your comment was mine and mine alone. Read my comment about Denmark in Steve’s earlier blog, a couple of chapters earlier, “Home For a Couple Weeks.†I am the original isolationist and nationalist. Over 50 years ago I visited the United Nations HQ twice. I don’t know who I talked to, it may have been the janitor, but I asked that all immigration be stopped, worldwide. If you were born there, you stay there. Except for one thing, Invitation. If a country asks you to come, you can, but you have two or three years to eliminate all signs of your previous culture, and completely adopt the culture of the country you went to, or out you go. Remember, a country has two things, and two things only — a border and a culture, if you violate either, out you go. The Joy of Travel is to learn about other people and their cultures. People come because our culture is best, and I want it to stay that way.
Reading Rick’s comments I wonder if he is noticing any fallout still occurring in Denmark over the B.S. (my opinion) controversy about the Mohammad cartoons last year.
Rick: Would love to hear more hard info about Denmark, trying to plan a winter trip there. Regarding your assimilation/immigration comments, I agree, it’s not about forsaking your original culture, it’s about recognizing that for whatever reason you chose to leave and need to embrace your new culture. Re the comment about stopping “all immigration”. I presume the commentor thinks that should have been done AFTER his immigrant ancestors came here. We’re all immigrants in the USA.
I myself am an immigrant and I do agree with your opinion on assimilation. I love America and the way I have been traveling with your book is a good example of being assimilated. Thanks.
Being an immigrant myself living in the U.S. for 30 years, I have to say that I pretty much have assimilated into this adopted land. I may not look white, or act like a white person( even though I am married to one), or trying to change my hair color, I am who I am. I am proud to call myself an American. I earned a degree, I work hard, raising a wonderfull family. Yet, I did not pass some of the heritage that I received from my parents to my children including the language. It was a matter of oppertunity, but still I did not regret one bit of being who I am now. It was not easy as an immigrant during my early years. But my philosopy in life is trying to seek a balance, be open-minded. To adopt is to change, to change is to evolve. I pick the very best of East and West cultures, infuse in my own children, and they turn out to be the well-adjusted children. Rick, it may just be one or two of your direct experiences with immigrants in Europe, it takes all kinds, as you might know….
Kathleen – Jul 08, 2007 1:39 PM. By your definition maybe everybody everywhere in the world is an immigrant. I will admit, and brag, that when my ancestors arrived on this continent, they did not obey any laws of the United States, nor did they disobey any of those laws. The United States did not yet exist. And don’t tell me that one Indian per 1,000,000 acres means it was owned by anyone. And by your definition, the Indians must have immigrated here from somewhere. All I said was, since you came here, act like it. I love cultural diversity, that’s why I have traveled to 70 countries and major islands, and wish I could visit more. But cultural diversity within a country is never a good idea. Sure there can be a block here and a block there of stores and restaurants from other places, but it should be more like a museum than a community.
Why is it OK to continue following a religion, but not OK to continue speaking a language? That seems like an arbitrary distinction. The problem occurs when what YOU think is OK to continue or not continue doesn’t match up with what the immigrant thinks is OK–and it almost never will. Be careful. This is a slippery slope of intolerance.
Borders, language, culture!! Jim Humberd has the right idea.
My grandmother is a first generation American. While she could understand SOME of the the Italian her parents, aunts and uncles spoke, neither she nor her siblings(nor-for that matter-her cousins)spoke Italian.Which is a shame My daughter’s grandmother has lived 30+ years in this country and speaks next to no English. Also a shame. And in my opinion a little absurd. Surely, there can be a place somewhere in the middle.
A little off the subject of Denmark, but on the subject of learning a language. My Sweeties parents were both born in Germany, and came to the US in 1922. Her parents never wanted her to speak German, so they spoke to her only in English, but often spoke German to each other. Emmy was surprised when she visited Germany (in 1970), that she actually understood a great deal of what everyone said and could even speak simple sentences herself, just from listening to her parents talk 40 years earlier. In her last months, in spite of dementia, she could still understand German. In 1981 we helped a Polish family come to the US. After a month of language classes a few times a week, they could communicate with us. Within a couple of months the grade school son was near the top of his class in school. A Mexican who taught English as a second language, said to me, “But he was motivated!†She said that in the same tone of voice as if she had said, “You are a child abuser!†Like how dare you!
I like your closing comment regarding imigrants: “treasure your herritage while embracing your adopted homelands.” It is obvious you have great respect for both natives and imigrants…..we need each other. Any nation or culture will benifit by the melting process. It is nothing to fear or to prevent.
You write in pictures and I enjoy reading your blog – a much to cumbersome word to describe what you write! Your TV show inspired my husband and I to travel, and now your blog has identified locations we can’t wait to visit. What a wonderful full life you and your family must be experiencing – thanks for sharing.
I’m a second generation Danish-American and my parents assimilated, raised me as an American and still retained some of their customs and food. That was in the 1930’s-50’s and resulted in the best of both worlds. The only negative was families from that era, in their eagerness to assimilate, generally didn’t teach their children their language. I now feel cheated that I can’t communicate in Danish with my relatives without taking many Danish language courses. Nevertheless, this is better than having our countries balkanized or ghettoized by various foreign groups. Immigration policies need to encourage assimilation.
After reading through some excellent opinions on this issue. I still think Mr. Steves says it best, “Am I wrong to wish that a Muslim living in Denmark would become a Dane? Am I wrong to wish the USA would speak English rather than Norwegian or Spanish? Am I wrong to lament districts of London that have a disdain for being British? Immigrants energize a land — and they do it best when their vision is a healthy melting pot. Melt, immigrants…treasure your heritage while embracing your adopted homelands.”
Thank you Rick for stating eloquently what Americans are thinking, with out any racism or ill will.
I have two thoughts on the immigration issue. The first is this: I have long thought of America not as a “melting pot” where all differences become indistinguishable, but more as a “peanut butter brownie”. You see, in a peanut butter brownie you can taste the chocolate, yet you can also taste the peanut butter swirled in. And, of course, there are always a few nuts. America is best because of its diversity. All our immigrants (the 99% of us who came after Captain John Smith came to Jamestown) add to the mixture that is and will be America. Yes, most of us speak English–at least in public–but taking the strengths of individuals from many places and combining them has given us the strength and position we enjoy today. Most monolithic cultures can’t boast the same strengths.
My second comment is this: I find it amusing in America that holdouts still hold on to the remnants of bigotry. They might not even realize they’re doing so. When asked to describe a person, I’ll often reflect on height, build, eye color and so forth, but will identify their skin color only as a last resort. Not that I’m trying to make everyone white–or similar–but if we all saw each other as “gray” (or purple) it would eliminate many hurt feelings. Yesterday, I was in line at the grocery store behind a young woman of Asian descent. She had her two young children with her. I couldn’t help but notice that what characterized her kids was not their ancestry (easily seen in their faces) but how obviously American they are, wanting to play but stuck going shopping with Mom. No matter where you go in America, you’ll see second- and third-generation Americans of every background working and playing together. That’s assimilation, and that’s America.
I have to disagree with Karl. When describing someone it should be OK to identify their skin color as you did when you described the woman with two children as “young and of Asian descent” We are what we are. That does not mean one person/race is better than the other. We are equal but unique. I agree with Rick “Melt, immigrants…treasure your heritage while embracing your adopted homelands.”
My wife and I just got back from Scandinavia and enjoyed your recommendations. In the future, for the guidebook I would suggest to place a higher priority on the Sognefjord and travel to Bergen by express boat. Also, please don’t put down Rush because a lot of Rick Steves travelers like him. JB
I don’t really see why people on here seem to think they can tell Rick what to do with his blog. This is his website and last I checked his business. If you are really offended that your views and his don’t match then you probably are not going to be a very successful traveler either. The whole idea of travel is to see things that differ from you and your culture. Usually educated people can see the value in people having different views on things and while I agree with everything Rick Steve’s has said in his blog thus far, I wouldn’t expect that I agree with everyone all the time in life! If life were like that we would first die of boredom and second never learn anything about the world around us or ourselves. To everyone else keep on traveling and never stop.
I think I understand what Rick was saying about assimilation, and I agree with everything he said except keeping the English language here. We very well might, because it’s becoming a universal language (whatever happened to Esperanto?). However, if the USA eventually becomes bilingual, then Spanish-speaking, so be it. I probably won’t be around by the time that happens (I’m 60), but I look at language as an evolutionary process. In fact, I like to see bilingual packaging. It seems accepting, courteous, and essentially American. Plus, I pick up lots of new words that way.
I believe we are having the same situation here in the US with the illegal Latino.
I have never understood why many people in this country believe that, if a person speaks another language, he/she cannot learn English well. They brag about not knowing the language of their parents or grandparents as if it were a virtue to be monolingual. My father and his siblings were born in Mexico and came to the US as children. All of them learned English fluently. I am proud that I am bilingual and that my children who both graduated from college with honors are too. I taught for many years in schools with large numbers of students who spoke languages other than English (Spanish, Tagalog, and Chinese) at home yet the overwhelming majority were fluent in English by the time they graduated from high school. I never met anyone who did not want to learn. Having a population with diverse backgrounds does not create “Balkanization”. It is when one group attempts to stamp out the other cultures and languages that the problems begin.
at the very least this is a multi-layered complex problem for our country. What many Americans don’t realize is that the same issues are facing many European countries who have had open door policies for the past 30 years and now are facing challenging social issues because of them. Specifically in Germany with the large Turkish and Polish populations. I think there is a delicate balance, I think the most successful example in America was the immigration in the late 70’s early 80’s of Vietnamese families. They had to be ‘sponsored’ to immigrate and in 10 years time their kids were cheerleaders, football players, parents were business owners and in my community a Vietnamese/American Association was born. These are some of the most patriotic Americans I know, but then they also escaped with their lives..
Dear Rick, When I travel one of the things I look forward to the most is how I will be able to interact with the people of what ever country I visit. Last year we went to France, where I had the time of my life with my college French of many years ago. I love looking at the architecture, tasting the food, soaking in the history and watching people of different nations.We are all different yet some how all the same…Ben, are you possibly one of those guys that lives in the woods in isolation with a years supply of food and ammo? Please lightin up you sound so stressed. By the way what does “recent” mean to you?
I’d like to respond Judy C on the subject of speaking a second language in the U.S. Judy, it may be easier for you to learn you parents’s first language–Spainish, because you were exposed to it more than say an average Joe whose parents were from Germany. ( e.g. California has one of the largest Spanish speaking population ) It is a wonderful experience to be able to speak more than one languages, if one has the talent, right teacher, and the amt of time of exposure to the language. Most Europeans can speak or master more than one languages simply because of demographically and geographically , many times, they learn at a younger age, and take pride to it. On the other hand, in the U.S., English is the common language, and 2nd language is not being taught until high school, which is developmnetally harder for students to learn and practice. I STRONGLY believe in this country, in order to connect, one needs to learn English FIRST.
Rick–I understand your frustration with non-assimilation. But remember the ghettos of the 19th and early 20th centuries, filled with Italians, Poles, Jews, etc. While some people find it relatively easy to “melt”, others don’t. While some find it easy to learn a new language, others don’t. Some people never adjust. Look at all the literature of second and third generations writing about growing up with a foot in two worlds: the world at home, where they spoke one language, engaged in one set of customs. And the world outside the home, where they learned English, went to school, played baseball and learned to be “Americans”. For many families, it is the third generation which is fully assimilated, and is freed up to learn their grandparents language and traditions. My Japanese heritage brother-in-law likes rice with his Thanksgiving turkey. My own family has roast beef for Xmas dinner. Very English, you know. Give it time–and keep up the good work. Liz May
Rick, you are right! Speaking the majority language is the key to becoming a true participant in a chosen country of residence. No one has forced immigrants to come to Denmark, and the government here has an extremely generous system, and the expectation is that immigrants/refugees attempt to become part of society and contribute constructively. I know, since I have worked as a Danish language teacher within this system for over 20 years and am myself an immigrant . We are very happily receiving thousands of new immigrants, mainly from eastern Europe,Germany, Holland etc. to help our booming economy. Tax financed tuition free higher education, is just one of the wonderful benefits we have – any person with the aptitude and the will to educate themselves, can get an excellent education. My oldest son took his BA in Copenhagen, MA in Erfurt, Germany and now Phd. in Florence,Italy and was able to do this all tuition free. We pay high taxes,with high returns!