In my work, I struggle almost daily with this issue: is an experience actually a unique and living slice of this culture or is it a cliché kept alive by the tourist industry. For instance, in Finland: the sauna.
There are only a few public saunas still around in Helsinki. Why? Because, with the affluence here, most people have them in their homes or cabins. Gritty working-class neighborhoods are most likely to have a public sauna. So, I got on the subway and that’s where I headed. Finding the address, my first sight made it clear: this place was not for tourists. Outside, a vertical neon sign in simple red letters read: SAUNA. Under it, a gang of Finnish guys wrapped only in small towels and enjoying bottles of beer filled a clutter of white plastic chairs–expertly relaxing.
As there wasn’t a word of English anywhere, I relied on the young attendant at the window for instructions. He explained the process: pay €7, grab a towel, strip, stow everything in an old wooden locker, wear the key like a bracelet, shower, enter the sauna…and reeeeelax. “Was it mixed?” “No, there’s a parallel world upstairs for women.” “What about getting a scrub?” He pointed to a woman in an apron and said, “Talk directly with her…€6 extra.”
The sauna was far from the sleek, cedar pre-fab den of steam I expected. Six crude concrete steps with dark wooden railings and rustic walls created a barn-like amphitheater of steam and heat. A huge iron door closed off the wood stove (as it was busy burning its cubic meter of wood a day). The third step was all the heat I could take. Everyone else was on the top level–for maximum steam and heat. Taking in my towel, I wondered if it was used for hygiene or modesty. Once inside, the answer was clear…neither.
People look more timeless and ethnic when naked with hair wet and stringy. The entire scene was three colors: grey concrete, dark wood, and ruddy flesh. There was virtually no indication of what century we were in. I fantasized I was in the 1700s. From the faces, somehow it was perfectly clear: this was Finland…and these were tough working class guys. Each had a tin bucket between their legs–for cool splashing of the face. I didn’t talk to anyone actually in the sauna as I sensed they weren’t thrilled to have tourists as voyeurs in their domain. (I knew this was a lost opportunity…not good travel.)
I asked the young attendant about birch twigs. He explained that by slapping your skin with these, you enhance the circulation and the roughed up leaves emit a refreshing birch aroma. He insisted it must be birch for chlorophyll–that opens the sinuses. But the bin of birch twigs sat on the bottom concrete step, unused.
Part two of a good sauna is the scrub down. The woman in the apron–looking like a Stalin-era Soviet tractor driver–was dousing one guy who sat on the plastic chair looking like a lifeless Viking gumby. I asked “Me next?” She welcomed me to her table. Wearing a white and green vertical striped house dress under her tough apron, she scrubs men one at a time all day long. Sitting on the table, I ask “up or down?” She pushes me down…belly up…and says “This is perfect. I wash you twice.” Lying naked as a fish on the plastic sheet…I felt like a salmon on a cleaning table ready for gutting. With sudsy mitts she works me over. She hoses me off…which makes me feel even more like a salmon.
It’s extremely relaxing. (It would be entirely relaxing but for my anxiety that I might show how much I’m enjoying the experience.) From deep in my scalp to between my toes, she washes me twice. Stepping back out into that gritty Helsinki neighborhood, I have affirmed my hope: that the sauna is no cliché kept alive for tourists.
Gee Rick, you really do go beyond the norm in your research. I really enjoyed your observations about the sauna. Once in Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada I did the sauna thing with some Finnish people (they have lots of them there). It was winter and we jumped into the snow banks after to cool down and then back to the sauna and the birch beatings. Keep up your great travelogue. Rosalie
So Rick…do we get to see all this on one of your new TV shows this fall? :-)
Rick,
I’m way to modest to do these things but wish I wasn’t. Reading your description I found myself sinking more and more into this couch…it sounded totally relaxing once you got past the other guys being there. hehe
Happy Trails and thanks for the blog.
Rick,
My grandparents on my mother’s side are from Finland. I grew up taking a sauna regularly. I live in California now so I do not get to take real saunas anymore.
I have been in Finland recently and I got the chance to see the relatives when I visited. The homes my grandparents were born in are still in the family. Everyone was very nice. I stayed with cousins both in the Helsinki area and out in the country. This gave me chance to see how the natives live. Everyone has a sauna, so I did get to take several of these. Most of the people use gas and electric now, not many with wood anymore.
You really created a visual experience and I chuckled ! Have never had the experience of a sauna…beer in the sauna sounded relaxing, but everything else sounded like a bacteria parade…
how do you determine if you will leave without a virus or infection ?
eeeeeeeeeee, not for me…..
Thanks Rick, keep posting !
Mark
Not exactly Baden-baden, eh? Does the similarity end with having to strip in front of strangers? Baden-baden was almost elegant. Your experience sounded much more intimidating. The concrete description sounded almost prison-esque. Yikes!
You need never worry that European Saunas will become over-run by American Tourists. Rule of thumb: although Americans might visit a Sauna with their European Friends, they will generally avoid like the plague going with other Americans. While the very mention of co-ed Saunas sends most Americans into a panic, it is actually pleasant and un-threatening. I have never seen inappropriate behavior of any kind. Regarding hygene, you sit on your towel and wear flip-flops. The Sauna experience involves showers, a dip in the pool, more showers, outdoor cooling. I never thought of it as unsanitary. On the contrary, you finish it feeling very clean and super relaxed. One last comment, when I first came over here I went to the Sauna for an hour or so. As I left, the attendant said “Is something wrong? Why are you leaving so soon?” I later learned that typically, Austrians go for at least several hours to really relax. My wife and I both love the occassional sauna. Especially in winter.
Gosh, it all sounds so relaxing. Too bad the few times I’ve gone to the sauna I end up leaving because I can’t breathe the super heated, humid air. Oh well.
Great blog. Mr. Steves, I’m very thankful you’ve allowed us to “tag along” with you.
As an International Flight Attendant, I have had the luxury of doing the spa. At the quite beautiful hotel in Budapest, the Corinthia, I recently dedicated a whole day to be my ‘Spa Day’. It was the most relaxing and rewarding thing I had done after a long international flight the day before. After a strenuous work-out, I did the steam room, dry sauna, olympic lap pool and jacuzzi. I have yet to do the naked massage, sounds a little less than appealing, although you probably felt great when it was over!