After a week in central Spain (Madrid, Toledo, Segovia), I’m heading for Ireland.
I like to catch emerging neighborhoods in my guidebooks. Here’s a new listing for my 2007 Spain book: In Madrid, a neighborhood called Lavapies is emerging as a colorful magnet for people looking for the multi-ethnic tapestry of Madrid society enjoying pithy, cheap, seedy yet fun-loving life on the streets. As is the case with most neighborhoods like this, they experience an evolution: so cheap only the immigrants, down-trodden, counter-culture types can live there. The liveliness they bring attracts those with more money who like the diversity and color. Businesses erupt to cater to those bohemian/trendy tastes. Rents go up. Those who gave the area the color in the first place can no longer afford to live there. They move out and here comes Starbucks. For now, Lavapies is edgy, yet comfy enough for most.
This district has almost no tourists. Old ladies with their tired bodies and busy fans hang out on their tiny balconies as they have for 40 years watching the scene. Shady types lurk on side streets.
For food, you’ll find all the various kinds of tapas bars plus great Indian and Moroccan eateries. I list a couple of places that appealed to me…but explore your options. I’d recommend making the entire walk once, then backtrack and eat at the place or places that appeal.
From metro stop “Anton Martin” walk down Calle Ave Maria (on its way to becoming Calle Ave Allah) to Plaza Lavapies (old ladies hang out with the swarthy drunks here while a mosaic of cultures treat this square as a communal living room) and then up Calle Lavapies to Plaza Tirso de Molina (with a metro stop). This newly remodeled square was once plagued by druggies. Now with a playground and flower kiosks, it’s homey and inviting. This is a fine example of the vision for Madrid’s public spaces.
If traveling to Madrid, keep these places in mind: Bar Melos is a thriving dive jammed with a hungry and nubile local crowd famous for its giant patty melts called Zapatillas de Lacon y Queso (because they are the size and shape of a zapatilla or slipper, €7 feeds at least two, Ave Maria 44). Nuevo Cafe Barbieri is a dying breed of smoky mirror cafe with a circa 1940 ambiance playing classical music in afternoon and jazz in the evening and offering its coffee sippers a menu of loaner books (Ave Maria 45). At Calle Lavapies 44, consider a fun cluster of three places: Indian Restaurant Shapla (good €8 menu); Teteria Lakutubia (an atmospheric tea house); and Montes Wine Bar with countless wines open and served by the glass and good tapas (crawl under the bar to get to the WC).
With a good guide, art–even obscure art buried in side chapels–comes to life. In Segovia’s cathedral I found a fun piece in a side chapel. I added this to my guidebook:
The many side chapels are mostly 16th century and come with big locking gates–a reminder that they were the private sacred domain of the rich families and guilds who “owned” them. They could enjoy private Masses here with their names actually in the blessings and a fine burial spot close to the altar. Its many 17th century paintings hang behind a mahogany wood gate imported from colonial America. The center statue is Mary of the Apocalypse (as described in Revelations, standing on a devil and half moon–looks like bull’s horns). Mary’s pregnant and the devil licks his evil chops waiting to devour the baby Messiah.
By the way, only Americans say “Holy Toledo.” Spaniards and the English don’t recognize the phrase. Locals tell me it’s likely from Sephardic Jews (Spanish branch) who emigrated eventually to America. To their American ancestors, Toledo was the most holy Jewish city in Europe…Holy Toledo!
Whenever I find a new eatery with a business plan driven by a chef’s passion, I am one happy guidebook researcher. Here’s my favorite new find for my Toledo chapter:
Adolfo Vinoteca–The highly respected local chef Adolfo who runs a fine restaurant across the street, runs this wine bar in hopes of introducing the young generation to the culture of fine food and wine. The place offers super elegance without the pretension. You can’t go wrong with their short list of gourmet appetizers (€5 each) and fine local wines (€2 to €3 per glass). I’d just throw myself at the mercy of Jonathan, and enjoy the feeling of gourmet slaves in the kitchen bringing you your wildest edible fancies. If the Starship Enterprise had a Spanish wine & tapas bar, this would be it. Wine is sold at shop prices with a €6 cork fee (daily 12:00-24:00, across from the cathedral at Calle Nuncio Viejo 1, tel. 925-224-244).
Enjoy Ireland Next Rick
Spain is diverse and full of interesting corners. Colourful people, neighbourhoods, bars and restaurants.
Great to get a detailed update fresh off the presses on the Blog.
Since I was born and spent my formative years in Ireland I know Ireland also is a colourful place to visit. Excellent history such as the Dingle peninsula with things such as the beehive huts and great cliffs as well.
Friendly people and great Guinness. I’ve noticed the freshest pint (for reasons I don’t know) is in Kerry, particularly the Waterville pubs.
Have fun in Eire Rick.
Bill.
I keep trying to find some place on your web-site for ‘other suggestions.’ So far, I’ve been unsuccessful. Is there one?
Over the years, I’ve found some real undiscovered gems. Also some places one does NOT want to know about. (Been there- done that. And don’t want to again.)
If you don’t have one, would you think about adding something like this as a topic on the Grafitti Wall?
Thanks for all the stuff I have found. It’s been great reading lots of stuff.
Rick, I love your show and always appreciate your insight. I just got back from 10 days in Ireland about two months ago and loved it. I planned the whole trip by watching your dvd’s and reading your guides! It was my first time there and it was beautiful. I have a question (for anyone who can help), I am considering a trip to London over Christmas. Is anything, in the city, open from Dec. 24 thru Dec. 26? I am traveling alone and do not have family there so am reliant on businesses (restaurants, shops, etc.) being open. Can anyone help?
I am in Europe currently and must say that I have been disappointed in Rick’s 2006 guide on Provence, France. For example, yesterday, we visited St. Remy and parked our car at the TI as Rick suggested. Rick said that it would be a 20 minute walk to Glanum from there. Well, I am no Olympic champion but I am no slouch either. The walk was 40 minutes through hot weather via a road with no sidewalk where you risked your life to passing cars. Not only that, but there was a parking lot for cars when we got there. If Rick had told us that there was a parking lot at the site, we would never had made that walk.
Today, we visited Marseilles. Rick said that the best place to get Bouillabaise in Marseilles was Chez Madie. How wrong he was! The place is a rip off joint. We were four people paying 35 euros each. All we got were 8 or 9 fishes for the four of us! It should have been 8 or 9 fishes each. Not only that, but we got no shell fish, eel, lobster or any other item!
Rick,
If still in Madrid, try the Argentinian tapas bar on Tetuán just north of the Hotel Europe in Plaza del Sol. Their olive-garlic dipping oil with a fresh grilled sausage along with bread and a beer is fantastic.
Hope Hotel Europe fixed their hot water systems. We were there in 12/05 and they moved us twice due to problems with renovations. Nice staff though.
We’re off to Cambridge then to Nimes late August – Rick Steves style.
Happy Travels!
John and Mary Benham
Spokane, WA
Have a great trip.
Mike, I lived in London and have visited at Christmas with family. The city certainly does shut down on Christmas Day, and on Boxing Day to a lesser extent. But other than Christmas Day, I did find many shops open. As for restaurants, well, I scoured the city and found that nearly all are closed, including even those run by groups not otherwise observant of Christmas. The only restaurants I did find open were the Angus Steak Houses/Aberdeen Steak Houses, and ONE Chinese restaurant in Chinatown/Soho, called Crispy Duck, a not-so-fancy place that some say serves tasty food. I hope that helps.
Blend… as a Canadian, we apopt an attitude that we become a citizen of the culture that we are visiting.Blending in to the scenery allows you to partake of the flavours of the society that you visit.Dress as the locals do,act as the locals do.Respect the cultures that you are visiting, become part of them.When you get back home, you can go back to wearing your N.Y. Yankees ball cap.
Armen,
Thanks for the information. If I can find a steak house open, I will be all set!
Mike,
I was in London at Christmas time 1999, but doubt much has changed. I recall that no buses or tubes were running on Christmas day. You might want to check if that is still the situation. I don’t recall if taxis were available, but think they were–probably at an exorbitant holiday rate. (I avoid taking taxis whenever possible, but if that’s an experience you want from London, spring for one of the big ones and keep the experience for your memory bank.)
Carlienne
Minnesota
I’ve really enjoyed reading your blog about Spain. My friends and I are planning our first trip there next year, and reading about your travels is making us all very excited! Our list of must-see places is growing daily.