While most Americans refer to Central Europe (including the Czech Republic, Poland, Hungary, and Croatia) as “Eastern Europe,” the countries deeper into the former Soviet Union are the real Eastern Europe. And lately, I’ve heard lots of rumbling that destinations like Ukraine, Armenia, and Russia are offering very rewarding travel experiences.
Ashley Sytsma, my publicist, is in Georgia on a mission to learn about its nascent wine industry for her family’s wine business. As I know nothing about this corner of Europe, I invited her to guest-host my blog for a week.
So, let’s all go to Georgia — the one over by Russia. Take it away, Ashley!
A while back, my husband asked me if I wanted to go with him to Tbilisi, Georgia to buy wine for our family business. Despite not knowing a thing about the country, I said, “Why not?” Knowing what I do now, my only regret is that I hadn’t visited Georgia sooner.
After a jolly nine-hour layover of beer-drinking in Munich, we flew east for four hours, landing bleary-eyed (and slightly hung over) at 3 a.m. in a bitterly cold and silently sleeping Tbilisi. Driving to our hotel, we quietly murmured in awe, “Where the heck are we? This is wild…”
Colossal Soviet-built concrete apartment towers lined the George W. Bush highway (named after the first US president to visit independent Georgia). Orthodox cathedrals were illuminated with pink, blue, and yellow lights. Ornately carved wooden balconies (which the city is famous for) sagged on their building’s crumbling foundations. On one of Tbilisi’s many hills sat a television tower that looked like something from The Jetsons and glittered nonstop like the Eiffel Tower. On another hill stood a piercingly white 70-foot statue: Mother Georgia forlornly watching over her sleeping city, a bowl of wine in one hand for her guests and a sword in the other for her enemies.
Rick likes to discover Back Doors — special places where we travelers have our mental and spiritual furniture rearranged, and where we learn that other parts of the world consider different truths self-evident and God-given. During that ride from the airport, I knew we were about to explore the ultimate European Back Door.
By noon, we were hiking yet another hill to Tbilisi’s ancient Narikala Fortress, which is known for its spectacular city views. Ascending the hill is like climbing up through time, as the fortress’ outer wall is a layered patchwork of different stones and building styles. In many ways, this fortress tells the history of the entire nation. Georgia sits at the center of a very profitable crossroads. Its strategic location and lush natural resources have (to the war-weary Georgians’ dismay) made it a target for countless invasions. The Romans, Persians, Ottomans, Arabs, Russians and even Mongols have all played parts in Georgia’s tumultuous history. With each invasion, the fortress was bombed. With each new victor, the walls were rebuilt on top of the destruction — the oldest layer being from the fourth century A.D., the newest being the fortress’ crown jewel: a small Orthodox church that opened only a few years ago.
As we caught our breath at the top, we gazed out over the magnificently beautiful city, marveling at the fact that our only company was a sleeping dog, the resident monk’s beehive, and an elderly Georgian man doing his daily exercises. As we listened to the cold wind whistle through the ancient rocks and trees, we giggled at our good fortune at having this place to ourselves.
For such a stunning place, where were all the tourists?
Hi Ashley:
The tourists are trying to earn a living. And when they do think about travel, it’s not about Georgia including Atlanta, Georgia. Still, that doesn’t detract from your well written story. And I’m sure your hubby will sell a few more bottles of wine because of your ability to write – and travel to exotic places.
What started off dark and a bit dismal is promising to be a beautiful trip! Can’t wait to hear what you do next!
What a refreshing change to a sometimes stale blog. I had the opportunity to spend two weeks in Georgia a few years ago on military assignment. I was so taken by the people, culture, and beautiful surroundings that my partner and I traveled back as tourists two years ago. So glad that we did. Rick, please don’t add this as a backdoor, part of the charm is the feeling that you have it all to yourself.
“Where are all the tourists?”
Georgia has traditionally been a holiday destination for ethnic Russians. As relations between the two countries aren’t exactly friendly these days, that might be like asking why there aren’t more Pakistani tourists in Indian-controlled Kashmir.
BTW, the wine business in Georgia is hardly “nascent”. Their wines may not be well known in the west, but they’ve always been the most celebrated vinters amongst Russia and the Caucuses.
Great stuff. I’d love to go there someday. Thanks for sharing it with us. More photos?!
Nice article..well written and descriptive. Not sure if that’s a place I’d want to visit this time of year.
Dave love your posts you are a legend with eduiatcng us about vid! I loved doing the Web Universtiy Course and continue to learn from your posts. One thing that you didnt teach us was how to put a logo watermark on our videos. You covered putting a domain name in the course but no logo? Could I request a podcast on that piece, we would all be grateful I’m sure, as always for you & your podcasts? Thanks Pemo Theodore, AstraMatch Blog