The Cinque Terre ‘ a string of five remote and ramshackle port villages along Italy’s Riviera ‘ was once an undiscovered paradise. It’s still a paradise, but these days you can only call it “undiscovered” in a relative sense ‘ compared to, say, Venice. And I suppose it’s partly my fault. When I first described and recommended Italy’s Cinque Terre in the late 1970s, there was almost no tourism there. Now it seems to be on the list of almost every Italy-bound tourist.
Going from “sleepy” to “popular” changes a place, and every year we need to update our guidebook listings in the Cinque Terre. This is one gig my researchers don’t enjoy. They prefer leaving this region to me. Locals are too aggressive and scheme to get into the book. They orchestrate email campaigns to fake positive feedback. And, I assume, they create negative feedback about their competition.
When I drop someone’s listing from the book, they’re dark and brooding to me the next year. Others camp out at the station, asking me, “Why you don’t put me in your book?” One year, all the B&B owners wanted in. Then the notoriety of being in a guidebook became a red flag to the local tax police, and the next year those same B&B hosts ‘ or at least the tax cheats among them ‘ insisted on being taken out.
My friend Sergio, who seems to be more urbane and modern than most Cinque Terre locals, is my research “bodyguard” for my three-day visits. It’s when his cell phone rings like never before as people figure they must go through Sergio to get to me. He says, “Suddenly my enemies become my friends.” People hang out in front of a hotel I may be visiting, then when I exit, they just happen to be passing by. They say, “Buon giorno,” make their pitch, and give me a business card.
Troubled by reports from my readers that my recommended B&Bs were price gouging in busy times, I’ve struggled to impose some order. One year, I tried to establish the “Nuova Etica” (“New Ethic” in Italian). I would (with Sergio’s translating help) explain to B&B owners that they must charge no more than what’s listed in the book. I promised to encourage readers to report on any B&B host that gouged them. The owners would agree to my plan ‘ but this is Italy. The next season, all of their rates went up, and I really couldn’t drop them all. For my latest edition, I’ve reluctantly dropped the notion of a new ethic and just encourage travelers to shop around for the best deal on a room.
Things are changing here. The big trend in the Cinque Terre is elderly apartment owners moving into the big city for a more comfortable place to live out their golden years. They hire Eastern Europeans to manage their Italian Riviera apartments, renting to tourists who come in with each train. There’s a fascinating tourism metabolism here: The train brings locals their livelihood as reliably as the tides bring nourishment to barnacles.
On my first visit to my favorite Cinque Terre town, Vernazza, I couldn’t afford a good restaurant meal. But I met a gentle restaurateur named Lorenzo. I’ll never forget how he said, “Sit. You must be hungry. I’ll feed you.” I did. And he did. He died of cancer shortly after my visit. For 20 years, his daughter Monica has been my best connection with Vernazza. She has Lorenzo’s same love in her piercing eyes. And I’m happy to bring my tour groups to her family restaurant.
I wish I could say the Cinque Terre is a restful stop for me but, when here, I’m just too excited with the research challenge to relax. Still, it’s perfect as a break in an intense vacation. In fact, for two decades, the Cinque Terre was the “vacation from our vacation” on our Best of Europe in 21 Days tour. Like a seventh-inning stretch, our tours arrived here around day 14, just after we’d hit the biggies (Venice, Florence, Rome) and were in the mood for no museums. After our break on the Riviera, we’d be energized to do the Alps and finish with a climax in Paris.
While I rarely enjoy a free day in the Cinque Terre, I do savor a leisure hour at the end of an intense day of research here. My favorite time is at about 11 p.m. Like me, the local chefs have been scrambling all day. Now that the last guest has left, we’ve both finally finished our work day. They sit at a bar with tables for one facing the sea, and have a strong drink and a cigarette. I take a slow walk without agenda, camera, or notepad, just being in the Mediterranean town of my dreams. All of us are savoring the place we work hard to share with travelers…a place that we love season after season, as much as any of its countless guests.
I hope that, on your next trip, you can enjoy my favorite stretch of Mediterranean coastline (and get a fair deal on a room while you’re there).
You sound angry, frustrated and disappointed. But know this, we loved the Cinque Terra on your 2005 BOE tour and even if you are a little angry that it is blown up to be a tourist attraction, we loved it. I can see why you are disappointed that the places you love might be charging to much because you knew the cinque terra as a baby and now it is a 35 year old slickster whose behavior disappoints you. It is a great place I would revisit again and pay whatever price they wanted.
Actually I love the place as much today as when I first visited. I don`t know what you`re hearing, but I am neither angry, nor frustrated, nor disappointed. I`m just describing what it`s like to do business there and a unique-to-me way to enjoy it at the end of the day. I dream of returning year after year, of seeing old friends there, and celebating the wonders of the place with the travelers I meet there using my guidebooks
Just visited Vernazza a few weeks ago. It is beautiful, but was pretty disappointed in how touristy it was. Saw too many Rick Steves books, souvenir stands,etc. Really enjoyed hiking between towns with the fabulous view taking some of the pain out of the hike (painful because I usually spend most of my day sitting in front of a computer).
This doesn`t discourage me. I STILL want to go to Vernazza as one of the destinations in Italy! Ahhhh but it is getting far away from our unforgettable 2006 trip to Ireland, England and France…but finances have changed now. I am beginning to think for the first time that instead of holding out for our planned Italy and Switzerland trip of 18 nights, which who knows when it will happen, that maybe we should just go to Italy for 10 or 11 nights. This would really cut down on expenses. Hmmmm, I have to start reworking our itinerary on that…
Rick, I think the time has come for you to buy yourself a fake mustache and a dark pair of sunglasses for your research trips. Maybe make reservations as “Ricardo Estefano”.
Rick this is what I was looking at when I was sensing anger and frustration “Locals are too aggressive and scheme to get into the book. They orchestrate email campaigns to fake positive feedback. And, I assume, they [INVALID] negative feedback about their competition. When I [INVALID] someone`s listing from the book, they`re dark and brooding to me the next year. Others camp out at the station, asking me, “Why you don`t put me in your book?” One year, all the B&B owners wanted in. Then the notoriety of being in a guidebook became a red flag to the local tax police, and the next year those same B&B hosts [INVALID] or at least the tax cheats among them [INVALID] insisted on being taken out. “//”Troubled by reports from my readers that my recommended B&Bs were price gouging in busy times, I`ve struggled to impose some order. One year, I tried to establish the “Nuova Etica” (“New Ethic” in Italian). I would (with Sergio`s translating help) explain to B&B owners that they must charge no more than what`s listed in the book. I promised to encourage readers to report on any B&B host that gouged them. The owners would agree to my plan [INVALID] but this is Italy. The next season, all of their rates went up, and I really couldn`t [INVALID] them all. For my latest edition, I`ve reluctantly [INVALID]ped the notion of a new ethic and just encourage travelers to shop around for the best deal on a room. Things are changing here. The big trend in the Cinque Terre is elderly apartment owners moving into the big city for a more comfortable place to live out their golden years.” Glad you clarified your position : )
We were there a couple of years ago and it was April, so it was very pleasant. It wasn`t beach weather yet and the hikes were a lot more challening than your book portrayed, but we loved it. I am glad I went there before the big crowds came around. Next time we are in Italy we are going to make it a trip of new undiscovered locations.
That a desination has been “discovered” doesn`t keep me from wanting to visit. I think there`s a difference between a tourist attraction and a tourist trap. I think of Cinque Terre as a tourist attraction you`ve convinced me put on my list of places to go based on your recommendations and feedback.
Rick, as I recall, a few years ago you commented on a similar frustration with the increasing popularity with another of your “discoveries”, Rothenburg. This occurred just prior to my first trip there, and I seriously thought about removing it from my Itinerary. However, your Staff assured me that although Rothenburg had become somewhat “touristy”, it was still a worthwhile place to visit so I kept it on the list. I had a wonderful time exploring the town, despite the abundance of other tourists and the ubiquitous blue & gold Guidebooks (I can`t really complain about those, as I also often use your books while day touring). Regarding the Cinque Terre, I haven`t had any issues with the number of tourists there and that certainly won`t prevent me from returning there in future. However, I tend to avoid Vernazza as my “home base” in that area because IT IS so popular with so many – I tend to prefer Riomaggiore or Manarola. I usually travel in the shoulder seasons and while it can be a bit crowded at times, I haven`t found that to be a problem. I can appreciate the difficulties you face with the Hotel owners and their “pricing structure”. That`s perhaps one of the inevitable consequences of your success. One solution (at least in the short term), might be to have a different member of your staff handle Guidebook updates in that area every year, as they`ll be able to operate somewhat anonymously (at least until the Hotel owners find out that they`re in town). If your BOE tour still uses an Assistant Guide, they could perhaps do a bit of research each time the tour stops in that area. Just a thought……
I sensed some frustration from your post, too, Rick. Perhaps a reason for that is because you had to ditch your New Ethic that you tried to establish. Reality put a check on your idealism, something no liberal likes to acknowledge, and I sense that in your blog.
Rick “discovered” Rothenburg? Maybe publicized the hell out of it, but I`m pretty sure it was on the Grand Tour itinerary long before Rick began writing guidebooks.
We have been to Vernazza & Cinque Terra many times over the years. The first few visits were magical but the last few have been disaapointing to say the least. The locals for the most part have grown “fat & happy” on the steady stream of Euros spent by tourists and seem rather indifferent for the most part whether you eat in their restaurant or sleep in their homes or pensions. It has been way over-exposed and we will look for another magical coastline to relax on our next visit, perhaps further south.
Try Tropea
Recommend Croatia. Been to both the Cinque Terre and the Dalmatian coast — same beautiful coast; half the price and 1/10th the tourists…
I liked Cinque Terre and certainly recommend that anyone should keep it on their Italian itinerary. But I wouldn`t spend too much time there, only 2 days max. The price/quality ratio of the lodging and food in the area is out of whack due to its tourism popularity. I agree with the previous poster – I`ve also been to the Dalmatian coast in Croatia and it might be the cheaper/less unspoiled Mediterranean beach option (and they have inexpensive ferries/flights from Italy to Croatia, so why not?)
sounds like you need a mystery shopper — I volunteer! :)
Bob K and Erik K. – I told a colleague at work yesterday that I`d love to go to Croatia and he thought I was nuts. He spoke about Croatia as if the war is still going on and the entire country is an unstable mess. Oh, the misinformation! Croatia is a gorgeous country and I actually hope it`s beauty remains a secret so it doesn`t end up spoiled by the tourists like Italy.
I`m hopeful that there are new “back doors” yet to be discovered in Western Europe, perhaps places that weren`t really that great to visit back in the 1970s/1980s, but are now more enjoyable. I love learning about new recommendations in eastern locations like Croatia, Hungary, etc., but wouldn`t it be cool to hear about a little town in Italy, for example, that isn`t as promoted as the Cinque Terre, but is still a wonderful place to visit? There are some pretty big areas that, for whatever reason, Rick doesn`t spend a lot of time discussing, e.g., the Loire Valley in France. I`ll bet there are lots of little towns in that area alone that aren`t quite so touristy. Of course, if Rick does start giving more attention to locales like that, they`ll become just as touristy as the Cinque Terre, but there would probably be several good years before that happened. Just the ramblings of someone who`s daydreaming about travel…
I spent a week in the Cinque Terre in September last year and, while there were many tourists, it was by no means unbearable. We loved the area and found some great restaurants. On some of the hikes there was hardly anybody else, especially around Volastra. We rented an apartment with a terrace overlooking the sea in Riomaggiore, the price was reasonable, and we frankly were happy that we stayed there instead of Vernazza, it seemed a little more quaint and quiet. I would love to go back!
I never think of your tours as “vacations”. They are journeys and experiences. A vacation is something where you truly kick back and relax. Your tours do provide some mini vacation days which are thoroughly enjoyed.
This was a great post! We had your guidebook and were staying a hotel in Manarola and they did not live up to the “Nuova Etica”, so I`m glad that you dropped it from the book for this year. I was actually surprised at how rude they were towards you, especially because we had come to them because of your guidebook. They said that they don`t have anything to do with the rates that you post. They said that “Rick Steves does not even come here anymore. He used to, but now sends two eighteen year old girls who just stay for five minutes and say the place is fine”. We had such a good trip because of your Italy 2010 guidebook and was quite surprised and offended by a hotelier saying this stuff about you!!
We stayed in Vernazza in February 2008. Being the off season, there was very few tourists and only one restaurant open in town. When we arrived, we walked down to the water to take in the view, when a kindly old man asked us if we wanted a room. He noticed our Canadian flags on our packs and asked “you know Rick Steves? I`m in his book”. His name was Martina and he showed us an enormous 4th floor room with water views. The room was well worn but spotless. We paid somewhere around 30 euro/night. We had an amazing stay with perfect weather for hiking. We would not hesitate to go back.
We loved Vernazza when we stayed there in June of 2007, and followed your advice on food and lodging. Thank you! But there was a fellow on the station platform every afternoon, with your guidebook under his arm, saying: “I am an agent of Rick Steves!” We heard through the grapevine that he was representing families with rooms quite close to the station and the train noise. This summer, we stayed in Levanto and loved it. A great destination for families, more Italians than North Americans, lots of grandparents pushing strollers, and an excellent fruit, veg and meat market. We`d go back in a second, and visit Vernazza on day trips.