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I like eating in a tiny restaurant because you have contact with the chef. It’s like talking to your masseuse as she works. After a day of sightseeing, I sit down to my favorite enoteca in Verona with Franklin, my guide. Our chef consults with us, and we encourage him to bring us whatever he’s most excited about today. Pleased with the freedom to dazzle us, he goes to work.
Just after the antipasti arrive, Franklin’s wife calls and says, “Don’t eat too much cheese or dessert.” Franklin, who’s not thin, surveys our table and considers enjoying with anything less than abandon the enticing parade of food that has just begun. Then he sighs and tells me, “Many people live their entire lives and they do not have this experience.” I say, “That’s a pity.” He says, “Yes. It’s like a man being born and being surrounded by beautiful women, and never making the love.”
I love the way Italians live life with abandon — and how they enjoy their food. As we eat and drink, Franklin opens up about his passion for good eating. He says, “In Italy, you don’t need to be high class to appreciate high culture, cuisine, opera. It’s the only culture I know like this. Here, a heart surgeon talks with a carpenter about cuisine.”
And, as guides tend to do — especially after a little wine — along with the commentary on cuisine, he mixes in culture, history, and politics. I find myself scribbling notes on the paper tablecloth.
Franklin is frustrated with how Italy’s north subsidizes the south. He complains that the south is “corrupt, inefficient, lazy, no organization.” I remind him, “They say here in Veneto, Lombardi, and the north, you are like the Germans of Italy.” He says, “Even today, the south still has its organized crime. With Fascism, the Camorra went to the USA. Mussolini had zero tolerance. And he got things done. That’s one reason why he was popular. And one reason why Mussolini is still popular. Then, after World War II, rather than tolerate communism, the government allowed the Camorra to re-establish itself in Italy.”
I ask him if he enjoyed The Godfather. Franklin says, “I watched The Godfather with a certain pride because of the importance of food in that movie. Especially the scenes with tomatoes. Marlon Brando watched tomatoes ripen. When he said something like, ‘Become red, you bastards,’ to the yellow tomatoes, that took me back to Sicily and the home of my father.”
Our conversation drifts to how modern societies mirror their ancient predecessors — or don’t. Comparing this historic continuity — ancient and today — of Rome, Greece, and Egypt, we agree the biggest difference is Egypt, a relatively ramshackle society that feels a far cry from the grandiosity of the pharaohs and pyramids. Greece, which wrote the ancient book on aesthetics, developed an unfortunate appetite in modern times for poorly planned concrete sprawl. But Rome has the most continuity. Today’s Romans, like their ancient ancestors, are still passionate about wine, food, and the conviviality offered by the public square.
Our chef, Giuliano, comes by, and I compliment him. He recalls my last visit, saying I sat at the same table. I’m always impressed by how people who care remember their clients. He serves thousands of people. Two years later, I come by, and he still knows just where I sat. It’s the same in hotels. I don’t remember which room I slept in last time, but so often the proprietor greets me saying, “I put you in your room…number 510.”
On my last visit to Milano, three years ago, I got a haircut. I remember really enjoying my barber. I needed a haircut on this visit, too, so I walked vaguely in the direction where I thought his shop was. Not sure whether I’d found the right place, I popped in on a barber. It seemed like the one, but I really didn’t know. Ten minutes into my haircut, the barber — having gotten to know my hair — realized he knew my hair and asked me if I hadn’t been here before. He had a tactile memory not of me…but of a head of hair he cut that happened to be mine.
I have a feeling Giuliano will remember my seat the next time I drop into Verona’s Enoteca Can Grande. And I’ll remember to invite my friend Franklin.
What a coincidence; in the US, the north is also tired of subsidizing the south.
What about lack of class distinctions and cuisine in China where some of the roots of Italian cuisine originate? Why do the economic and cultural differences between Northern and Southern Italy exist? Climate, proximity to other industrial countries in Europe? Why are Egypt, Greece, and Italy influenced differently by their civilization roots? Islam, Orthodox Christianity, Roman Catholicism?
Wrong Bill, Just plain Wrong. Average people are fleeing the “north” due to taxes and high cost of living. If anything I would say the reverse is true. We have some still strong industries and job growth here in Atlanta. I am not some confederate flag waving idiot either. When in NYC i never meet anyone from “the south” but here in Atlanta no one is from here but they are from NYC, Philly, new Joisey, etc….
Yes, we should learn to live a little bit more like the Italians! They do enjoy life and food!
When traveling to Cairo, Athens and Rome…I see cities which gave so much to civilization, the remains of Cairo and Athens are just incredible and are a constant reminder of our western civilization. Agreed these cities aren’t as “beautiful” as Rome or are they? As I walk the pyramids and ancient walkway of Athens, its their culture that leaves an impression… and how much was copied by Rome? who designed Rome? and who educated Romans? There is something very magical viewing the antiquites of Egypt and Greece, when I see the colosseum, I’m not that impressed. We all travel differently, but when I see the first theater or views from Phillapopos Hill, I’m mesmerized,viewing Egytian stautes and influence on Greece. The Pride of Greece and Egypt is evident when you eat, drink and go for the evening “stroll”, while talking of their place in history as the Italians learned to do…as they did in ancient times..Rome is visually impressive, with many fountains of Greek Gods with Roman names and many olesiks and I love all 3 cities, they all have great remains and great outdoor restaurants cafes where u can have wine, food and many times in Greece I have seen these passionate people start singing at dinner..the concrete of Cairo and Athens disappear to me as I am reminded of their place in history..
Just a word about the “violent love of tomatoes”. I understand this. Growing up in the midwest where we had great tomatoes and living in the Pacfic NW for the past 35 years where we do NOT have great tomatoes, I just returned from a trip to the southern states where I oohed and ahhed over the lovely tomatoes. Tomatoes — really good tomatoes— are to die for! ;-)
Audrey, you are so right about the tomatoes! I have never had a better tomato than what I grow in Ohio. I have had almost as good but never better. The Italians do need to remember that the tomato came from the New World though!
Speaking of the ancient cultures, there is a new movie coming out in America in limited form, it takes place in Alexandria Egypt during Roman times. It is a film by Alejandro Amenabar about the female genius Hypatia, it was a smash in Spain and doing well in the countries released: here is the link to the movie http://www.agorathemovie.com/
Hypatia is the woman in the famous painting The School of Athens in Rome
Rick – I wonder if the Milanese barber would say something like, “I’m not good with names, but I never forget a scalp.” Also, the Giro d’Italia bike race is coming from Holland to Northern Italy this week – I wonder if you’re planning to either catch or avoid any of the action?
Hi Rick – met you in Bellagio on the steps outside Trattoria San Giacomo where you took our picture. The food was delicious, by the way. We then met you in the Duomo in Milan where we handed you cards of two of the places we stayed at, one in Rome and one in Ravenna. Can’t hardly believe we met you a second time and had the cards from the B&B’s we stayed at. Hope you will consider them in your next book. Congratulations on the Smithsonian Magazine. I know for a fact we would have never ventured to Italy on our own (both of us being over 65) for two months if it were not for your books. So if you measure success by how many people have traveled with you advise, include us in emphatically.
OOps forgot to mention the names. One in Rome is the BBQueen (www.bbqueen.it) right close to the train station, which we were looking for. And in Ravenna it was Galla Placidia( http://www.gallaplacidia.it), the room with the terrace is where we stayed.
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I just watched an interesting documentary called “Toxic Napoli” which discusses many of the problems facing Naples with regard to waste disposal, politics, and organized crime, so I couldn’t help but comment on the statements about northern Italy vs. southern Italy. I do understand some northern Italians’ frustrations and I realize that this is only one of many complicated issues that cannot be solved with one simple answer. However, maybe it would help the south to be less corrupt if northern industries would stop paying these organized crime “families” to use southern cities as a waste dump.
Well, Rick. I think your haircut is just fine. He brought your hair out of a time warp. I had to look twice to be sure it was really you. One nice thing about hair…it always grows back. Have a great day and I’ve really enjoyed your posts.