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| Need a good place to recharge? Try the terrace of the Hotel Lippmann, overlooking the Mosel River in Beilstein, Germany. Enlarge photo |
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| Jonas Lippmann made sure I took things slow and easy for a couple days. But I refused to wear his van Gogh hat. Enlarge photo |
I’m feeling a bit burned out. Researching a string of big cities (Bergen, Oslo, Stockholm, Helsinki, and Tallinn) is physically and mentally exhausting, and it’s frustrating because there’s just never enough time to do the job I want to do.
I gave myself a week to simply travel in Germany. Stepping off the plane in Berlin, I remember feeling strangely like I had just been let out of prison. I was entering a new country without a long list of hotels, restaurants, and museums to check. I was free.
But I was also just spent. Knowing I had my TV crew flying to meet me in a week, I needed to rest.
For my big-city German stops, I let the tourist board arrange hotels and guides for me. In each city, I had local guide for half a day and a big business-class hotel. These were splurges I wanted to try (but not pay for), and places, it turns out, I’d never recommend. Each time I plopped onto a new hotel’s bed, I reaffirmed my belief that a hotel’s personality and location trump its glitziness.
These places, while fancy, had no personality (too big for any of the employees to have any idea who owns the place that employs them) and were in lousy locations (designed for conventioneers, people with cars, or those who didn’t think twice about hopping into a taxi to go anywhere). For me, to be in a hotel where I can’t just step out the door and immerse myself in the charm of my destination is a disaster. I expect to be in a glassy high-rise surrounded by freeway interchanges in Houston, but not Germany.
My Köln hotel was distant from the cathedral and old center. At first I was disappointed about it. I was so tired, I needed to just take a slow walk. Strolling aimlessly among cars, trees, sky, and pavement, I realized the bad location was a blessing in disguise. I was in Germany, and it was as mundane as suburban Anytown, USA: the same humble people, same ethnic mix, same feeling that everyone was struggling together to make it.
To make time for a longer walk, I paid extra at the launderette for the attendant to wash, dry, and fold my clothes. I returned a bit early and just watched her lovingly fold my shirts and tuck my socks into themselves, and slide it all back into my rumpled plastic bag. She did this work all day long with grace. Next door was an empty phone and Internet shop — where foreign laborers come to call home cheaply. The Turkish man who ran it stood outside his door staring at the traffic and the blocky architecture built on the cheap in the 1950s after WWII bombings.
Feeling solitary and pensive, I stepped into a church for a quiet moment. Like everything else around me here in Köln, it was rebuilt after World War II. It was concrete with fake mortar painted on to make it look like the fine stone original. Only a little of the original medieval glass survived, leaving the once-vivid Biblical messages fragmented — mostly replaced by drab, Tupperware-colored glass with no story to tell. The church seemed almost dead. With the lack of religiosity in Germany today, I wondered if the bombings occurred now, whether anyone would care enough to rebuild the place.
From Köln, I felt like I needed to actually convalesce. I’ve never felt so fried. In fact, I almost vowed to schedule a weekly day of rest in my future travels. (We’re not designed to ignore that commandment.)
When I think convalesce in Europe, certain places come to mind: Ærøskøbing in Denmark, Walaker Hotel on Norway’s Sognefjord, Varenna on Italy’s Lake Como, Hallstatt in Austria’s Salzkammergut Lake District, and Beilstein on Germany’s Mosel River.
The nearest of those places: Beilstein — just two hours away by train. Beilstein is the Mosel River’s “Sleeping Beauty town.” Without good road access until recently, it never really got any modern development. Today it’s just grape vines, cobbles, fancy door knockers, the smell of dank back alleys, and Mosel River views. Midday, its charm is trampled by too many tourists. But early and late, it’s a dream…just right for convalescence.
I spent an hour before dinner on the terrace of Hotel Lippmann. Sipping my sprightly white wine, I gazed at the tiny two-car ferry sliding on its cable back and forth across the river. Its slow, monotonous rhythm and the peaceful bikers that came and went with each landing were mesmerizing.
Jonas, who runs my hotel, serves wine and not beer. He explained that people who would stay away because there is no beer are people they don’t want anyway. He serves homemade bread with tubs of Schmaltz (greasy pork lard). I asked him if he knew Barry Manilow. He said yes. I said, “Schmaltz is to butter what Barry Manilow is to music.” Jonas said, “Ja,schmaltzy.”
My room, which faced the river, had a small terrace. A rumble shook my room, waking me on my first morning. Stepping outside, I saw a massive barge filled with coal lumbering by. In a moment, it was gone, and I was left with the peaceful essence of the Mosel: across the glassy river, the little ferry was parked. Above it a church spire stuck like a slate spike through a hill cloaked in a green corduroy of vineyards. As if animating some symphony to the direction of a cosmic conductor, a huge and orderly flock of black birds sloshed back and forth like sound waves across the fields and around the spire. That kicked off a soothing Beilstein day.
Beautiful post, Rick. I hope your convalescence has done you well, and I hope you continue successfully on your journeys.
I was worried, at first reading, that Rick really would be so burned out that we might not hear about the next city on his tour. Beilstein to the rescue! May 2007 was my husband’s and my visit to the lovely town on the Mosel and the perfect hotel. Reading the post, I could see the Reisling wine in those cute German glasses and taste the white asparagas with pork dinner! Fantastic. Did you also see the swans on the river? My fav was the fact we arrived on a Sunday in the bigger town up river and couldn’t catch a bus, so had to figure out which ferry to take down the river and it was the most scenic and relaxing boat trip. Great way to spend time…in Beilstein!
Rick………..Top-notch excellent post…………..Very good to hear the real deal without everything always rosy and pumped up………………of course you are excellent at that Rick showing your real experience warts and all……can’t wait to visit Beilstein next time in Germany. ……….oh and I may not be staying at your hotel due to the beer shortage there…….we’ll see………………we all need rest and burnout is bad….can’t always be helped but good to avoid…………….one lady at a B and B in the UK told me a few years ago that you had stayed there and were and extremely hard worker……………and that was when you were starting ETBD 20 years ago……still going today just as hard…..thanks for the blog Rick….great job
I really like this blog entry…your thoughts are well written. Beautiful! Rest up, and enjoy Beilstein. More happy travels to come. :)
Wonderful, vivid writing. Love the Schmaltz story! Take care on your adventures and catch up on your ‘zzzzzz’s’! Happy travels to you.:)
Sometimes I think you are such a travel-driven man, that your greatest fear is that you will run out of life before you have checked-off everything on your “to do” list? Maybe a bit more ‘Ann & Rick’ time would be nice? Give the camera guys some time-off?
Thank for such a candid blog regarding your personal experiences in Germany. I’ve been lucky enough to travel there in 2001 and 2004, and I will be taking my family for the first time in early Oct this year. This is the first time I will be staying in Beilstein and in fact have booked two nights at Hotel Haus Lipmann. I look forward to seeing the Mosel and escaping for a short time the healthcare reform debate in America and the recent nonsensical townhall meetings. Why is universal healthcare so hard to accept for Americans?
Rick, Thanks for being so human. And thank you for a wonderful and personal post. Simply “wow.”
The comment about the lack of religiousty in Germany isn’t quite right. I don’t know about Cologne, but the downtown churches in Frankfurt are packed every Sunday, and it isn’t just tourists either. Recently there was a huge, International Gymnastics Fest in Frankfurt. I volunteered to sit at the little red & white church at the Roemer square to greet people. Germans of all ages flooded into this beautiful little 800 year old church and many of them were proud and delighted to tell me about their own churches. I got the feeling that Germans loved their churches and were quite active in them in their respective communities. Yes, officially, Germans do not want to pay a church tax, but the churches are far from empty or dead here. Would love to know why Rick feels this way.
Rick, please do take your own advice. On all etbd tours taken, over one week long, I recall having a day of downtime. It’s planned for on the schedule, about every seven tourdays, to wash clothes, sleep in, or simply refresh for the next intense travel adventures. What is sauce for us travel geese, should be the same for “the hardest working man (gander) in the travel game.” You tell your travelers to take a break, so should you. Of course, I never remind anyone about how they’re not 24 (or even 54) any more! Love too. this post about german city scenes. Never have met a big business suburban hotel I liked. Yes, staying in them by necessity is one thing, choosing them otherwise, is entirely unnecessary. Larry from springfield.
Great post! One of your best. There is nothing more relaxing that sitting by the river (Rhine or Mosel) and watching life past by while the body rests. Relax, take care.
Rick – what a beautiful post .. you have the ability to take us with you, wherever you go & however you feel. I feel privileged to be able to share not only the ‘up times’ but the ones that are a little more fatigued.. Take care and re-charge and know that we (in spirit) are right there with you. Jo/Victoria, B.C.
Rick – what a beautiful post .. you have the ability to take us with you, wherever you go & however you feel. I feel privileged to be able to share not only the ‘up times’ but the ones that are a little more fatigued.. Take care and re-charge and know that we (in spirit) are right there with you. Jo/Victoria, B.C.
Rick, Thanks for another poignant and very descriptive Blog entry (I wish I could write like that)! Your words do a great job of evoking the images you’re trying to convey. I have to agree with Larry that it would be a good idea to build a “free day” into your schedule from time-to-time, as you do with your tour groups. I’ve found that I really value those days, as they provide not only an opportunity to take care of necessary “housekeeping” but also to explore a bit on my own, at my own pace. I can very much appreciate your motivation though. I’ve also experienced the frustration of not being able to finish all the tasks that I set for myself. I’ve resolved that to some extent over the last few years by “pacing myself” and reminding myself that what I don’t finish today will still be waiting for me tomorrow. Have another glass of that wonderful German wine, enjoy the view of the river and allow yourself some time to “recharge the batteries”. Finally Rick, THANK YOU for doing such a great job of giving us the resources and information we need to travel and enjoy Europe!
Great post Rick! Having “slack days” as you say in your guidies are crucial. My first one occured on my second trip to Europe: I was in Italy for 10 days and was only planning to be in Siena one day, then Assisi the next. Got up early the next morning, decided on morning grub, by the time I digested and checked out..wouldn’t you know! Just missed the only morning bus to Assisi! In hindsight, I was trying to do way too much. Instead, I met a lovely Spainiard at the depot (Fatema was her name, and that’s how she spelled it), and since I saw what I wanted to see the day before, I spent the afternoon at Il Campo..just CHILLING! It was just what I needed, even got my clothes cleaned and all. So everyone here is absolutely right with this observation. And Rick, as much as it hurt, you hit the nail dead on the head about my hometown. Let me guess, was it the Hilton Americas in Downtown Houston, or the Hotel Derek down the street from the Galleria (by Loop 610)? One more thing: another good thing to do is leave yourself at least ONE day to rest after returning from your trip, especially if the flight back takes all day…thanks again Rick Steves for just being Rick.
Rick, I was actually thinking about you this week. I know you have guides that live in certain countries that help you do your research for your country books. However, do you always do all of this research every year on your own? Have you ever thought of someone else doing some of the dirty work, like researching these details of things you find burdensome, while you research more of the things you enjoy? Would you ever considering hiring someone to help you with this? I know for many years this has been your passion but as you get older maybe you need to slow down or change priorities a bit, even on your research trips. Thanks for this entry as I really did spend some time thinking about this exact same thing this week.
I have lots of energy, like to travel and do good research. I would do a great job for Rick and company. My aunt said so.
It’s about time mr happy got grumpy so we don’t feel lutheran guilt when we travel tired. Ever since you showed your morning face in a photo earlier I realized there was hope you weren’t all hype……..pax vobiscum…and keep on traveling.
Wonderful writing, nuff said.
Some of the posts are funny, “It’s about time mr happy got grumpy.” Great writing Rick. Thanks for taking me away from my office for a little bit. Looks like your ready to roll now …
Hallstatt, one of Steve’s R&R choices, is simply a lakeside jewel, bedazzling in its presentation as you approach from the train stop across the water from the town. Tiny, picturesque and full of Austrian character, I well concur that convalescence might joyfully jell faster here than in many other ports of renewal. Take a chair in one of the waterside cafes, a beverage of choice to hand, steep your retinas in the incomparable scenery and breathe slowly and deeply. Repeat exercise as often as needed! Connie Ralston, Greensboro NC
It has come to my attention more than a few times, in watching your programs and behind-the-scenes peeks, that you have a fantastic work ethic! However, i also noted (as an avowed type-B personality) that it never seems that someone who “relaxed” for a living that you did enough relaxing! We are grateful to you, your perceptions, your gentleness, and your curiosity, and it would be a shame to have your talents cut short due to burnout or otherwise. Take good care of yourself, yours, and this world we live in. New visions, –S
Rick, just a postscript encouragement to make relaxing travel choices. You have no worries regarding business this year. Remember way back last fall, and early this year, you wondered out loud, how many fewer tours would happen this year? Unless this traveler missed his count badly, your tours numbers are fine, around 350 total, more then half already departed and paid up now. Of the balance, 2/3 rds are booked solid, with the rest filling fine. So rick, relax, take two days off in row, than blog us how you spent that down time. Larry from springfield keeping count.
I just returned from a few weeks of travel here in the US; much of it business with a little leisure thrown in for good measure. Upon my return my office is stacked with work, too many emails left unanswered, updates to read, etc. However, for lunch, I felt like I came back to visit with an old friend capable of taking me away. Rick, I am not sure you really know what a balm you are. I may not get to travel to foreign lands nearly as much as I would like, but that you would share your travels with us restores a balance to life. As an aside, of course you need a day off each week! It seems foolish to ignore something you know to be true. Raise a glass to all of us left behind that would like to be there.
Hey Rick! I read the first line of your post and was immediately concerned. While most of the world considers your life beyond perfect–new countries, people, cultures and traditions–virtually every other day, or so….perhaps, we have forgotten how difficult it is to keep going when travel is your “job” rather than your escape. I love travel–tell me where and when and I am there!! However, I cannot deny the joy I feel when I return to the USA and the customs agent welcomes me back HOME! Remember, HOME–the USA–will always gladly welcome you home. Please, care for yourself, gather your family close and recreate your “home” where ever the world finds you, and rejoice! Life is only too wonderful and precious.
Rick, we have followed your advice year after year with excellent results, and now I find you following advice I have given to others: always, at least one day of rest (preferably two) per week, during which you sleep late, stay in the neighborhood, go back to a cafe you liked (they’ll love seeing you again!), and plan your coming week. Thanks.
rick i’am new to your expertise. i’am curretnly planning my return visit to western europe for 3 weeks with my family. i was there as a student 30 years ago. i’am planning to visit the tourist bureau in each of the big cities that we are planning to hit. in preparation for this trip, i purchased your best of europe 2009 and to my disappointment Munich has been left out. it covers all of the other major cities that we are planning to visit. is there a reason for this omission???? just asking.
Hi Rick, my wife and I remember that particular hotel only too well from September 2008. We had reserved a room a month before arrival. Upon our arrival one hot afternoon, with some difficulty we searched out Hotel Lipmann. The staff were friendly but nervous as they lead us to the proprietor. With germanic rigidity to rules, he informed us that we had not phoned to confirm our reservation and thus he had given our room away. My pleading that we had come all the way from Vancouver, Canada on Rick Steve’s advice and that we did not have access to a phone, fell on deaf ears. He just continued to repeat the iron clad rule, “You must phone ahead to confirm your room”! He refused to help find us another room and we left very disappointed and sad. This was our only bad experience in Germany. We would love to be with you now enjoying a glass of the very fine Mosel Riesling, Cheers, Brian
Rick: Many people benefit from your ambition and hard work. But it is ok to slow things down sometimes. We all have to slow down a little more as we get older. We want you to keep doing this for a long time. Your descriptions of scenes and sensations of your travels is excellent. You could probably write some excellent fiction if you chose to.
Beilstein is one of our “recovery” places too. We stay on the other side of the River in Ellenz and ride back and forth to Beilstein on the little ferry. We have made fast friends in Ellenz at the Villa Hausmann where we drink the family wine and slurp Reisling soup. It is a great place to recharge your batteries.
I was a Rick Steves travler long before I knew who you were. Then at age 50 I was exploring hill towns in Italy in Sept. and bedridden with rheumatoid arthritis in Oct. I have continued to travel though it takes a lot more planning to be a Rick Steves handicapped traveler. On the other hand, I have had a lot more of your ‘R and R’ moments.
Hi Rick, The fast road of traveling could be trying, but your adventures are priceless. Just remember that as we get older our resistance decreases. Take it easy! Connie
The Mosel by bike from Metz to Koblenz (average 20 miles per day)gives you the opportunity to experience many “Beilsteins” along the way. B & B’s along the Mosel cater to the biker. Trier, Trittenheim, Bernkastel-Kues, Zell, & Tries-Karden are all worth exploring and taking your time. Surprisingly, we met very few Americans on the Mosel Bike Way. Few Americans experience what Rick is talking about, kicking back and convalescing and enjoying the small village’s hospitality. Racing from the Eiffel Tower to the Leaning Tower of Pisa is not seeing Europe – only meeting more Americans. See Europe at 10 miles per hour on a BIKE………….
JUST WANTED TO LET YOU KNOW HOW MUCH I APPRECIATE YOUR SHOWS. I GREW UP IN BAVARIA AND TRAVELED THROUGHOUT EUROPE IN THE ARMY. I REALLY ENJOY YOUR SHOWS ON THE RURAL AREAS.THANK YOU FOR BRINGING BACK FOND MEMORIES.