Clipped Wings Only on Campus in Tehran

The woman in the bookstore gave me a free book.
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Martyrs walking heroically into the sunset of death for god and country.
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In the university there’s a lounge for boys…and one for girls.
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After traveling through Iran, my notebook is filled with quirky observations. Reading the comments readers share on my blog is also thought-provoking. The whole experience makes me want to hug people and scream at the same time. It’s intensely human.

One moment, I’m stirred by propaganda murals encouraging young men to walk into the blazing sunset of martyrdom. The next, a woman in a bookstore serves me cookies and offers me the book I admired for free.

My friends are worried about my safety, and even progressive people have adopted the post-9/11 phrase “be safe.” (Hearing that makes me want to do something dangerous.) Safety is the least of my concerns in Iran. The only danger I could imagine during my visit would be something explosive falling from an American airplane high above.

And I learn that after the JFK assassination, there was a popular song here that was a standard among grade-school children. They sang, “Oh, God, what would the world be like if Kennedy were brought back to life?”

I marvel at some example of inefficiency in this society…and then see an old man with a beautifully carved walking stick ingeniously designed with a small flashlight in its handle to light the way home through his poorly lit village late at night.

In our TV filming, I was excited to visit the University of Tehran in hopes of showing highly educated and liberated women and an environment of freedom. Conformity on any university campus (in the USA or Iran) saddens me. You conform once you are parenting or paying off a house or climbing the corporate ladder, but university is where you run free…barefoot through the grass of life, leaping over silly limits just because you can. I assumed I’d find a free spirit at the biggest university in Iran. But the University of Tehran made BYU look like Berkeley. There was a strictly enforced dress code, no non-conformist posters, top-down direction for ways to play, segregated classrooms and cantinas…and students toeing the line.

Hoping to film some interaction with students, I asked for a student union center (the lively place where students come together on Western campuses), but there was none. Each faculty had a cantina where kids could hang out, with a sales counter separating two sections — one for boys and one for girls. In the USA, I see university professors as a bastion of freedom (understandably threatening to people who are against freedom). In Tehran, I found a situation where the theocracy was clearly shaping the curriculum, faculty, and the tenor of the campus. It was the saddest and most disheartening experience of my Iranian visit. I only visited one campus, but I was told it was the biggest and most prestigious in the country.

While the traffic is crazy, it is not noisy. Because of a history of motorcycle bandits and assassinations, only small (and therefore quieter) motorcycles are allowed. While traffic is enough to make you scream, people are incredibly good-humored on the road. I never heard angry horns honking. Once, while stalled in Tehran traffic, people in the neighboring car saw me sitting patiently in the back of our van: a foreigner stuck in their traffic. They rolled down their window and handed my driver a bouquet of flowers with instructions to give it to the visitor. When the traffic jam broke up, we moved on — with a bouquet from strangers in my lap.

Comments

70 Replies to “Clipped Wings Only on Campus in Tehran”

  1. I hope that down the line you will write something akin to your Postcards from Europe book and do so for this trip to Iran. This blog is not enough to contain what you must have witnessed. It has whet my appetite to learn more, and I’m so eager to see the show once it’s finally produced. But I believe it is wholly important that you continue to share your experiences with as many people as you can. You’re doing a beautiful thing.

  2. Rick- As I often do when reading your blog entries, I found myself incredibly jealous of your experiences! But my feelings of jealousy were tinged with resentment. I am not a man, and I wondered if this trip would have been impossible if you were Rachel, and not Rick, Steves. So I ask, how do you think your reactions to Iran would have differed if you were a woman? During your visit, what were your thoughts about your female family members and friends back home? How would your trip or feeling about Iran have differed it they had some of these friends or family members had been with you? And if you thought about all of this, how did your thoughts about gender influence your thoughts about Iran, if at all?

  3. Dear Rick; first let me start by saying I love your shows and books. Perhaps I’m taking your quote out of context in which you say the only worry you have is from something explosive falling from an American plane, I believe that should be the least of your worries. Granted I would imagine 99.9 or Iranian people wouldn’t wish harm on anyone, the .1% would go to any lengths to make a statement and has proven it. As a USMC veteran it shatters my heart to read some of the comments posted. I see people like laex who seems to have the soul purpose of bashing any country that isn’t Iran. I’d hope that folks that want to make a difference can compromise. Take a little from here and a little from there. It’s not about whose right whose wrong it’s about how we as a human race can better all. As a marine I did my fighting but my first priority was to Help others not kill. Unfortunately death is a sad and tragic by product which some of us will live with for the rest of our lives. Please people all I ask is mercy compassion and compromise. I hope I haven’t upset folks with my feelings and if i have I’m deeply sorry.

  4. Thank you for making this trip and sharing what you saw. You and the posters to this blog have given us lots to think about.

  5. Bravo, Rick. I wholeheartedly agree with your mission to meet everyday Iranians face-to-face, but I can only imagine that you didn’t find many dissidents because they’ve already been exiled, imprisoned, or worse, I’m sure I’m not the first to recommend you see the movie Persepolis, about a middle-class girl’s coming of age during the Iranian revolution. It’s imaginative and eye-opening.

  6. Hello, Rick! I admire your courage to go to Iran to learn more about the people and culture. “Be safe” is a gesture of goodwill. It sounds like all went well over there. I look forward to seeing the show(s) on Iran.

  7. Unfortunately Rick spews his own brand of liberal fascism and propaganda to the detriment of our country (The only danger I could imagine during my visit would be something explosive falling from an American airplane high above). He’s lucky he lives in a place that embraces his right to express these views, unlike Iran.

  8. Yes, political correctness is an issue, but it is overblown by the right. Rick is bang on about what a university education should be. It’s a time to test ideas, a time to explore new information, a time to meet new people and new ideas. It’s a time to learn. Sadly, many students don’t understand what they have. Instead they focus on getting an “A” and not on the learning. Tell me what I need to know to pass the test rather then help me understand what I need to study to understand the concept. There are many things that contribute to this attitude and they are not all student based. Nevertheless, it’s still far better to go to university in the US than any place else. We’re very lucky. Pam

  9. You are visiting a country with a culture unlike our own. How fortunate to be able to give a personal account. I understand that you are a visitor and a tourist, your blog expresses that viewpoint. Because you are American, you represent ideals that are sometimes not welcome or understood. Thanks for being a traveler, who shows an interest in another way of living. They value their beliefs just as we do ours. Diversity is life.

  10. it is all about perspective Rick. The more affluent and rich a country is does not necessarily make it better than others. but it is amazing how nice people become when you leave the united states. I come from california, it is amazing how nice people get after i leave the state. I seriously think that america has very backward priorities right now. Do you think that supreme freedom comes with the price of having an over-indulged, obese, unsatisfied, greedy, overworked, underapid, in-debt/ plastic society? Iran has a super conservative religious society and the people are nice, and have strong beliefs . Here we have a generations of people that feel like the worlds owes them something. Is our democracy reaching its end? or could it be the breakdown of strong religious views that at least brought values to our society? or has america just become the fat kid in the neighborhood that cant keep up with the world any longer? i dont if any of this makes sense or not, but to top it all off i just paid $4.55 a gallon to fill up my car.

  11. Rick Steves’ lover and former BYU student here. I’m so glad that there is at least one university on God’s green earth that is more strict than my alma ma er. While you are moved to conform at “The Y” at least its no where near as much as what you experienced at “UT.” Religious schools in both countries are molding its own leaders (and followers), but I’m glad you recognized that at least somewhere BYU can be seen as more liberal than than another large university!

  12. The only danger I could imagine during my visit would be something explosive falling from an American airplane high above. Wow, Rick. This diatribe is beyond belief; what a cheap shot. Rick, you have SO many wonderful things to offer your readers, customers, etc., but why, oh, why must you seemingly take such cheap shots? There is absolutely NO benefit or need for this.

  13. How fortunate that your least concern in Iran was your safety, and that your only danger was from American planes. I LOVE discovering other cultures, countries, customs, but I don’t understand your compulsion to bash America. Hey man, listen up. That’s not “balance”, that’s low class, dude. Q: If you bash your wife, do other men think you’re more likable? Low. Class.

  14. I have thoroughly enjoyed reading your Iran blog and agree with most of your comments. I also strongly believe that we need to look at other cultures as “different” instead of rating things as “better” or “worse.” However, I also agree that your comment about your only fear being from an American airplane above was rude, unnecessary America bashing. I do not think we belong in Iraq and hope to God that we stay out of Iran; while I do not agree with our government sometimes (more often lately!), I do not go about issuing such rude statement about our country. You are so understanding and tolerant about differences between cultures/countries. PLEASE apply these same standards to your own country!!

  15. Rick, I really enjoyed seeing your pictures from Iran as well as reading your blog. I am very excited to watch the program! I also wanted to completely agree with your comment about the experience one should have at college. College is a time to truly get out and experience life, make mistakes, discover who you are, and be exposed to the world. Describing it as the place where you ‘run free’ is so true. I am graduating from what is considered a ‘liberal college’ this spring and feel so blessed to have received the education I did. I was taught by both conservative and liberal professors and felt free in both classroom settings to raise questions and promote discussion. Having this freedom really added to my overall education and helped me discover who I really am and what I really believe in – rather than just what the university wanted me to think! I believe from understanding comes compassion. If we truly understand and humanize our enemy, it becomes more difficult for them to remain our enemy. Instead we often realize, they are more similar to us than we ever thought possible. By traveling to Iran to gain a deeper understanding of the people and culture, then bringing that knowledge back with you, you are helping promote peace and I commend you for that! Happy travels!

  16. Hi Rick – It is wonderful that you have made this trip, particularly with all the saber-rattling going on in D.C. right now. It would be nice if one of the major national TV companies would run your finished product – but 2009 may be too late, if the current administration continues the course on which it seems bent. You are the best ambassador this country has at the moment. Hopefully the Iranians (and what a handsome bunch you photographed!)will remember you and what you stood for. Lynn, June 9, 2008

  17. Say, um–may I ask, are all you people who are so offended about Rick’s fear of explosives, falling from American planes, therefore completely against bombing Iran? That’s great! It gives me hope. I thought the right wing had become bloodthirsty kooks, but apparently, they’re completely against any unprovoked attack on Iran. Right?

  18. Tony, your statement was not hurtful. Thank you for your service. I also do not mean to denigrate any serviceman with my comments. For the record, I was not against the war on Afghanistan, which was a regrettable but (in my opinion, and in I think most of the Left’s opinion too) necessary war, on the perpetrators of 9/11. The Iraq War was not, since Iraq had nothing at all to do with 9/11. Iraq was made out to be another Nazi Germany; so is Iran, now. But fool me twice, shame on me.

  19. What an incredible insight you have provided on your trip to Iran, Rick. While I whole-heartedly agree that travel enriches the mind, body and soul, and that it can often foster a better appreciation for the common citizen of a given country, I think that the justification of a real concern on the part of the world about the belligerence of the Iran government – not to mention the horrific statements that they constantly espouses (e.g. Holocaust denial, building nuclear plants for “peaceful” purposes, “let’s wipe out Israel”, etc.) – should be keenly listened to. True, the average person on the streets of Tehran strives, like every other average citizen of the world, hard to forge a living, but in a totalitarian state existing in a theocratic vacuum, such is the case with Iran, Americans, Brits, Israelis, etc. need to worry and ponder about what that government will do next. It is a very real and scary situation going on over there. All that said, I’m glad you had the experience and the wherewithall to visit this ancient land with a vibrant culture. It’s too bad politics and religion mix in this region to poison an otherwise intriguing and exciting area.

  20. Congratulations on your nerve and initiative to visit Iran. After reading the other blogs I wonder if we compared some of the comments of our “leaders” with those of Iranian leaders, we would see a similar lack of insight into one another. I have read several books recently that describe the various factions in each middle east country, theocrats, autocrats, and democrats. We (the President and VP) seem to paint them all with the same brush, not recognizing the differences in each country. Travel is the best way to understand our own country, its strengths and shortcomings. Keep traveling! Bernie – June 10, 9:35 a.m.

  21. Rick – you are right, all the leftist US universities make the kids conform to political correctness – no alternative conservative thought or ideas. Oh, and Rick you “see university professors as a bastion of freedom”. The “bastion of freedom professors” at Duke had the white male lacrosse players tried and found guilty because of course they fit into the liberal conformist stereotypes of privileged wealthy white male students – they just had to have raped that black girl! Also, Rick, another danger you have in Iran is having your driver collide with a truck carrying loads of deadly rockets to Lebanon for Hamas so they can launch them and have them drop from high above on innocent Israeli civilians. Rick, drop the anti-America political comments and stick to what you do best – finding and recommending clean cheap hotels for us ugly American tourists to spend our dollars at.

  22. I was about to type a really long diatribe but saw Ryan’s post amidst all these comments which I thought encapsulated what I wanted to say. I’m glad that your trip has created so much discussion in your blog unlike some. Keep it up, and thanks for the updates!

  23. I loved your story about the flowers, Rick. That’s the kind of story that makes me jealous and want to travel.

  24. This blog reminded me of what happened in my 4th grade class (in suburban, *Republican* Columbus Ohio) when our teacher announced that our president had just been shot. All my classmates started clapping! And our teacher scolded them and said “I don’t care if your parents didn’t vote for him, he’s still our president!” Unbelievable, eh? Contrast that to the song the Iranian kids sang.

  25. Rick actually universities in Iran have been center of resistance to the government. The students discuss and have challenged the government on issues such as sepsration of religion and state, the role of supreme leader and many other social and political topics. That is one of the reasons that Friday prayer by the government supporters are scheduled at the university ground.

  26. Interesting species, us Sapiens… Ethnic group A vs. Ethnic group B; Religion C vs. Religion D; Political Bias J vs. Political Bias E; the group of damn lucky Right people who are next to that sorry group of unfortunate Wrong people. We’re still primal tribes underneath all of this artifice, aren’t we ? Somehow, the “bit” often gets set in people’s minds that different means wrong

  27. Rick you have kept me enthralled for years now, Your posts are both informative and interesting. You take us to places that most of us will probably never see. Your insights into travel and local cultures are entertaining. But your political opinions do not belong in a travelogue. They should be reserved for the voting booth. And more than anything else – in all your travels around the world- have you ever found a better place to live than the US? If so I would sincerely like to know where that might be. Thanks.

  28. Bill – loved your comment. SO true! Ken, you make some great comments too. I really want to go to Iran now… just the idea of someone in the car next to you giving you flowers is so wonderful.

  29. I usually don’t ever respond to people in blog comments, but I disagree so completely with comments that were previously said I have to say something! As a college student who has paid their way through school I take offense to what was stated as a generalization earlier. While it may seem at times that many college students are irresponsible and just spend their time drinking and making mistakes. However, I guarantee you there are many more of us who are responsible and spend our Friday and Saturday nights working or studying. As far as Spring Break, I agree many kids do go insane, but from personal experience I know there are many more of us who stay home and get in as many hours at work as possible. It’s just that you never see or hear about any of us the way you do about the kids who go to Mexico etc. Oh and in my major, Economics, the professors aren’t necessarily labeled as either conservative or liberal but their views becomes apparent very quickly when you take their class. I don’t see this as a bad thing – in the field of economics opinions vary greatly and receiving a well rounded education is necessary.

  30. Hi Rick, I’ve greatly enjoyed your commentary of your journey to Iran. I have been to that country twice in less than four years. Many of your comments remind me of my first time. I am surprised that you didn’t mention anything about the ubiquitous, short, blue pickup trucks. Or that the highway signs were in Farsi and in English, but street signs were only in Farsi (maybe you didn’t stray to the neighborhoods as much?). Many people are harping on your “explosives falling from American planes” comment. The first time I visited with my new in-laws, the current US administration leaked that they were making plans to attack strategic sites inside Iran (one of those sites I sat next to for 90 minutes in a snowstorm on a highway). Not once was I bothered while in Iran, not at customs, flying between cities, at restaurants, on the streets. I was treated as an honored guest by even the dentist that I visited will there. Like you, he gave me a present simply because I am an American. The second time I visited was at the time the Revolutionary Guard kidnapped the 5 English sailors more than a year ago. While I was there, no one in Iran was concerned about the issue. It was a footnote; everyone knew it was a power-play and nothing more; the sailors would be very well treated (cultural issue, see below) and be released after a short time. The Iranians that I talked to all wanted to ask me about the movie “300” and why it portrayed Persians in such a bad light. (I had to explain how Hollywood and script writing works.) Persians are a very nationalistic people. And most see themselves as something for more than Islamic (only 1300+ years old). Many of those old traditions hold, including honoring and protecting guests. Thank you again for your journey and my wife and I look forward to your documentary.

  31. John McCain…Bomb Bomb..Bomb I-ran that dude first needs to learn how to pronounce the name of the country he tries to Bomb. I live in America and am visiting my family in Tehran right now. Believe me, the only two dangers in current Iran are McCain taking office and Ahmadinejad staying in for another 4 years…Thats gonna be bad..

  32. Ehsan, The reason McCain pronounced it IRAN is to rhyme with the Beach Boys song “Barbara Ann”. I agree with you, however, that it was in poor taste. Please note that Barack Hussein Obama has made intimations about bombing Pakistan and has become much more bellicose recently in his language regarding Iranian nuclear intentions.

  33. Mike, I hope you are kidding regarding the kidnapping of the British (not English) soldiers last year. I guess you probably think the American hostage crisis was just a simple, cultural misunderstanding right? The beatings and mock executions were just a little Persian humor…correct?

  34. Who can even travel to Europe now with such a really bad economy and the weak almost worthless dollar. We need more tips on travel in America.

  35. Regarding separation of religion and state, Kaveh, there was a humourous song written by an American about Jesus Christ that went, “let’s all sing out our praises to/that long-haired, radical socialist Jew,” and one of the lines was “what would have saved him from his fate?/separation of church and state!”

  36. Just a quick fact. I’m a Stanford University graduate student in Electrical Engineering hopeful to pass the PHD qualifier. I’ve noticed that the Majority of Students that pass the PHD qualification are from Iran. Sharif university. I was impressed, because they out number all other nations in the PHD program at this top University. These guys are really good at theory and fundamentals by far. I don’t think I have as good of a base education from my US undergraduate degree. The freedom in US education only caused me to spend less time on my core studies. Most professors will tell you that the university is supposed to narrow your focus and deepen your learning, not the other way around. hope this helps your readers

  37. You are very courageous to visit a country with a government who speak against US; the population countries like Iran under Islamic Theocratic Regime , have their liberties suppressed by the government. I cannot believe that a Stanford student want to loose his liberty in order to achieve better grades.

  38. Why should anyone be afraid of explosive things falling from American airplanes? After all, the US DID IN FACT PROVIDE CHEMICAL WEAPONS TO SADDAM AND KILLED 60,000 IRANIANS. Thans a FACT Tony. Adjust to it.

  39. You know, all you people who are whining about “freedom”, where were you when the Shah was in power? Back then, most of you didn’t even know where Iran was. You still probably don’t really know. The same thing is going on in Azerbaijan and Kazakhstan. Find them on the map?

  40. Only a matter of time before someone resorted to CAPITAL letters and escalated the debate. Next thing you know they will be using depleted invectives, anti-personal contrivances and hidden “wheras” clauses indiscriminately… Below the text input box to post here everyone inputs the word image to verify you are (only) human- remember ?

  41. Laex, this is not a debate over who’s right and who’s wrong. Please keep in mind all the Americans killed by Iranian-sponsored terrorist activities (e.g., the Beirut Marine barracks bombings in 1983). There is a lot of blame that could be cast on all parties. “An eye for an eye” mentality will not usher in world peace. You can bring up: the 1953 coup; the Iran/Iraq war; etc and I can bring up: the hostage crisis; terrorism etc. Would good does it so to keep score.

  42. Another typo on my part- I hate keyboards!:) Last sentence above should read “What good does it do to keep score”. Ok..thanks.

  43. Beirut Marine Barracks attack (widely attributed to iran without evidence) DOES NOT CONSTITUTE TERRORISM. The targets were ARMED INVADERS ON FOREIGN SOIL, not innocent civilians. The fact is that you can’t name a SINGLE American killed by Iranians for a fact. I can name 500,000 killed Iranians at the hands of US SUPPORTED, ARMED AND FINANCED SADDAM HUSSEIN, not to mention the ones that the CIA-TRAINED Savak killed. It is simply amazing that the Iranians DO NOT hate us all. THOSE ARE THE FACTS. Deal with them.

  44. The university you visited happens to be one of the top universities in Iran. Of the many hundreds and hundreds of thousands of Iranian kids who sit for their “concours” exams, only a very select few make it there. Universities in Iran are not a place you go to get drunk and smoke dope and wear clogs. The average Iranian high school student has to learn calculas in the 9th grade. They’re a lot more serious about studying there. Same goes for China and Japan.

  45. Tweeeet ! Unsportsmanlike conduct and off to the Penalty Box for two minutes each. Your teams will each argue a man down now…

  46. As an Iranaian I would like to thank u for ur reports and slide shows,.. from Iran. I liked them a lot. Thanks for everything u have done and hope to see some day that more tourists specially Americans visit my country.

  47. Dear Mary, Although women in Iran face serious restrictions, they are also one of the most educated and accomplished in the Middle East. However, you can perhaps make your own search in relation to that if you want to know. This is just to make you aware that a lot of your perceptions and fears seem to be formed by massive anti-Iran propaganda around you which is incessant and hugely dishonest. This is not to defend abusive laws against women and restrictions of their freedom, but to make you aware that Iran is full of contradictions and it is important when you look at it (as in any other different culture) that you remove your familiar lens (prejudices) and not allow the differences to get in the way of seeing and appreciating. It might also wish to know that there are very many western women travel to Iran and are received with courtesy, respect and affectionate hospitality, just as Rick has experienced.

  48. Dear Mr. Steves, I have greatly enjoyed your TV programs about Europe over the years, which is why I was incredibly disappointed by your superficial description of the University of Tehran and Iran in general. How is it that you spend a few days in Iran and feel that you can instantly make generalizations about the entire society, using your own cultural standards? Iran is neither California nor Utah; it is an incredibly complex society with many problems and populated by people who must face those problems on a daily basis. That they choose to be complacent and not risk confrontation is their choice, and as someone from a country where you can say whatever you want without ever worrying about ending up in prison or expelled from school or fired from your job, you have no right to judge them as casually as you have done.

  49. Hi Sina, I think you may be misreading Rick’s post. He seems to me to be placing the blame not on the students, or on others who might otherwise often be dissidents, but on the leadership (I see this in his words “strictly enforced dress code,” above, which means to me that he is saying that the students have no choice in the matter, not that they are in the wrong for failing to rebel).

  50. Hello Rick, I watch your TV programs on PBS with a great deal of interest. I am impressed that you chose to visit and write about Iran my native country. I shall look froward to read your book on Iran soon. I am confident more and more people will realize that it is a place to visit and a culture worth experiencing.

  51. First of all Thanks Rick for finally visiting one of the ancient cultures in the World. You have to remmeber, you can’t possibly write about a nation that has been around for more than 5000 yrs in just one visit. I know, that is a given. But after reading all the comments I thought the following web site is a very important site for all of you. Persian saying; “In life one must live true or live in lies, you choose one and stay with it otherwise we call you a bully”. Live true and visit this site. http://www.ifamericansknew.org/

  52. I just don’t understand all these Iranians who talk about how much they love their country, but they don’t live there, and aren’t trying to correct the problems that made them leave. I am sure happy that George Washington didn’t say, “This place is a mess, I’m going to Canada.” Why don’t you go home and help change the portions of the culture that have in the past, and continue, to cause problems for people who live there, those who feel they must leave, and the rest of the world who listen to your leaders? I am not saying you should change much or most of the culture, just that portion that causes people to leave, then talk about how much they love the place they where they won’t live.

  53. Jim, stop quoting others if you have nothing to offer! May be your world is Black/White but this type of commentaries are for people that think otherwise. Think out side of the Box. Your type likes to do to the World, what whites in America have done to Native American and Blacks. Right? We know your story…..

  54. Rick i am so glad you visited Iran ,i am from Seattle and came a few days ago from Iran and wish i was there with you to show you what you need to visit any way i am so happy for you to see Iran with your own eyes and see we are not bad and access-evil people good luck and have safe trip.Sam

  55. I was a graduate student at the University of Tehran before moving to the US and I sued to hang out there a lot when I was an undergrad student over 90s. There wasn’t any “segregated” classes in there even over 90s when the universities were subject to stricter moral codes. Reporting should be truthful.

  56. Correcting a typo: I was a graduate student at the University of Tehran before moving to the US and I used to hang out there a lot when I was an undergrad student over 90s. There wasn’t any “segregated” classes in there even over 90s when the universities were subject to stricter moral codes. Reporting should be truthful.

  57. I think you are giving this gentleman a little too much credit Duh. Since reading this page, I have read some of Mr. Steves’ other blog entries, and my disappointment has turned to outrage. For him to declare himself to be on a mission to educate Westerners (or English-speakers?) about Iran would be laughable if it were not incredibly depressing. He has written about the country’s theocractic regulations, the “inefficiencies”, the University of Tehran, the martyr’s cemetaries, even the Iranian-style toilet from a distinctly disapproving, even condescending viewpoint. I guess by Western standards, even visiting Iran constitutes some attempt to “understand the people”, but Mr. Steves doesn’t even write about the people…he writes about what he thinks they should be like or behave like, which is the people of California or Europe. Some of the things he has criticized are social problems and institutions that Iranians themselves are incredibly frustrated and angered by, and others (like the war cemetaries) are regretable outcomes of recent historic events, but some of the things he writes are just bizarre…as if he is more focused on the quality of his hotel rooms and meals and the urban environment than the people. I realize it is difficult to give a s–t about the people when you are stressed about the toilets and the absence of alcohol, but then perhaps Mr. Steves was the wrong person to undertake this mission of international understanding.

  58. I would assume that those who are telling Rick to shut up with his political observations, are also conservatives who would be just as vocal in defending our constitution and bill of rights, in which “freedom of personal expression” is enshrined. Odd, that those screaming in defense of America are also screaming against Rick’s free expression. I wonder why that is?

  59. Many of my friends have visited Iran and loved the country, the people, and the landscape. I teach in an international school in Saudi Arabia and know the feel of living in a theocracy while being a Westerner. Our community is insulated and the surrounding communities are “used to us.” Still it is a little bizarre to me to know that the religious police are on the lookout for an errant neckline, ankle or dark uncovered hair. The segration of the sexes seems like a big mistake to me. Men and women don’t learn how to have civil conversation with people of the opposite sex except within the family.

  60. To the Jun. 20th poster- no one is telling Rick to shut up. He’s allowed his opinions. People expressing opposite points of view or disagreeing is not hate speech. As a liberal, I know that’s hard for you to fathom.

  61. Does anyone even bother to read any of the posts before they respond with their hasty opinions and criticisms? I read Rick’s post and I fail to see where he criticizes America. He expresses concern over American planes dropping bombs on Iran, which, considering there are active wars going on in both the country to the East and West of Iran would seem to be a legitimate concern. Sitting in an air conditioned office outside Chicago I don’t have that same fear, but I not in the middle of a war sandwich. And where does the criticism regarding Rick’s idea of university life as being a place to “run free” equate to drug use and drunken parties. I think Rick’s “disheartening experience” with the University comes from the lack of diversity and free thought and the student’s willful subjugation to conformity. Then I read Steve’s post of 6/23. I’ve read Terry’s 6/20 post about a dozen times and have yet to find where Terry accused anyone of “hate speech.” Rick, thanks for the post. Can’t say I’d ever want to visit the place myself, but I don’t think America needs to invade the place either.

  62. Florida, it’s called hyperbole. Terry claimed that posters were telling Rick to “shut up” – which is untrue. I thought I’d counter one hyperbolic statement with another, equally hyperbolic rejoinder.

  63. Rick: I am glad you have returned from Iran safely and more educated, and took the time to write extensively on your blog. However, as a proud American, I am ashamed that you would feel the need to interject your political views into an otherwise entertaining travelogue. I know of NO ONE (outside of political talking heads) who wishes to harm the Iranian people. We are not jackasses, Rick; we Americans do have hearts and souls; and most of us are fed up to here with our government (both sides of the aisle). Therefore, we do NOT need your snide, anti-U.S. comments, especially when you are in another country. Be a class act, Rick; remember that your “followers” are from many backgrounds and we travel for many reasons. As Churchill said, “When I am abroad, I always make it a rule never to criticize or attack the government or my country, I make up for lost time when I am at home.”

  64. HI! Iam mahboobeh parvizi .Iam from iran .the place that you have been there. i get suprise when i saw your slidshow about iran.i did n’t know that how we appeares in a tourist sight.I feel awful .i think you did n’t see all the truth about iranians.i am so disappointed about my country ,but you do n’t know in my country many people hate this situation but they can not do anything.i recommende you wacth a franch movie that name is perspolise it gives you more information about iran . tanks bye

  65. Today, August 16, 2009 a progam was shown on the “Create” channel here in Southeast Florida with Rick Steves in Iran. This in turn led to this website with Rick’s comment about his experiences there: The only danger I could imagine during my visit would be something explosive falling from an American airplane high above. BACKROUND: Not old enough to know first hand I recall from a TV documentry that Harry Truman tried to promote a health plan for all Americans but was stopped by the Korean war. FORWARD TO 2009: Will history repeate itself with the USA faced with another war in the Middle East? I hope not since what Mr. Steves has presented is a friendly, intelligent people, their government notwithstanding.

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