Playing Hardball for Soft Power

I’m just back from a trip to Washington, D.C. and it was an eye-opener. The main purpose of my visit was to accept the Wittenberg Award from the Luther Institute for service to the public and my church. It was a great honor, and the event gave me a chance to give my “Travel as a Political Act” talk to an audience in a city that lives and breathes politics.

Sitting in that packed church, a travel writer from Seattle, listening to music chosen and sung in my honor (Robert Louis Stevenson’s “Songs of Travel”) and listening to church and seminary leaders talk about my work was a little intimidating. But having the opportunity to give my talk to this crowd inspired me as much as anyone. The reception was a festival, and it turned out to be a great and energizing way to kick off an intense and very political couple of days.

While I was in D.C., I worked with the citizens’ action group Bread for the World to lobby members of Congress to follow through on America’s commitment to the Millennium Development Goals (to join other nations in giving one percent of their budgets to developmental aid), and to encourage our nation’s decision-makers to see that people need development aid beyond military aid.

In a week when Colombia was given $5 billion in military aid to fight its drug war (as one Congressman put it, “That sells American helicopters”), Bread for the World lobbyists and I were busy buttonholing congressional members and staffers to advocate for the needs of hungry people around the world and to ask for $5 billion in developmental aid.

The schedule was brutal, and in my pint-sized escort, Rachel, I met my match when it comes to walking fast down long, long corridors.

I was fortunate to have in-person visits with Senator Patty Murray (who has since voted in favor of the Biden-Luger Amendment to keep our developmental aid strong, for which all BFTW members and I are thankful), Congressman Norm Dicks, Congresswoman Jo Ann Emerson, and the staffs of Mark Kirk, John Carter and Tom Latham.

BFTW knew who was Lutheran, who was a fan of my guidebooks, and who had been on recent trips and wanted to meet me. They were unabashed about using these excuses to get into those offices and sit down to lobby for the needs of the hungry and homeless.

My own congressional Representative, Jay Inslee, and Representative Rick Larsen of Washington’s 2nd district, sponsored an event in the Rayburn House Office Building attended by 60 church leaders, Congressional staffers and others. I spoke for half an hour, followed by a spirited question-and-answer period and messages from three members of Congress.

I was also invited to be the featured speaker at a German Marshall Fund luncheon, where 40 people with a passion is transatlantic cooperation gathered to hear my take on the value of the US overcoming its isolation and working more constructively with its international friends on poverty, peace and justice issues.

During my many conversations, I picked up on some interesting phrases that are trendy in D.C. these days:

“Soft Power” — The idea that the US can wield its influence and accomplish its goals more effectively by helping people with constructive developmental aid, rather than threatening with military force and rewarding with military aid.

“The Brand of America” — The notion that the goal of the US being liked and respected is that people worldwide will be inclined to buy our products…and the realization across the political spectrum that this “brand” has taken a pretty big beating in the past decade.

“Quietism” — The sense among progressive Christians who, while frustrated by our government’s priorities, feel (unlike some conservative Christians) that it’s inappropriate to incorporate their religious values in political discourse.

I returned home impressed with the constant grind of people advocating for their financial needs in the Capitol. The math is depressingly simple: Any interest (no matter how noble) that is not forcefully lobbied for will simply be pushed aside by others that are. If a Congressman gives money to Interest A at the expense of Interest B, it’s not because he doesn’t like B…it’s just that he gave in to A’s demands, and the money had to come from somewhere. That’s how good and caring members of Congress appropriate funds in ways that hurt hungry and desperate people.

I left Washington D.C. with a deeper appreciation than ever for the dogged work done by Bread for the World. And, frankly, exhausted after two days of playing hardball for soft power.

A Bum Under a Floodlit Cathedral

A magazine recently asked me a few questions to get an American’s take on France. I thought my responses might be blog-worthy:

Tell me about your first visit to France.
My first memories were as a 14-year-old schoolboy: gazing up at the Arc de Triomphe, thinking it looks old but isn’t; discovering the wonders of a crêpe with sugar and butter; venturing into a subway system for the first time, then emerging to turn the corner and see the Eiffel Tower…and thinking, “I love to travel.”

What aspect of the French culture do you like the most?
The way smart people do things differently than we do, with no apologies. The way proud people are not bullied by American ethnocentrism. I was raised thinking cheese is orange and the shape of the bread. I am humbled to find people evangelical about fine cheese. I am inspired by French people who find their niche in life (whether it be doctor, lawyer, baker, or tour guide) and fill it with pride and panache.

How good is your French?
My French is terrible. I quit French in high school when I couldn’t remember the many variations of the sound “uhn” in French. I am tone-deaf to French (unlike Italian or German, which I find much easier).

What is your favourite French museum?
France is filled with great museums. These few come to mind: The Marc Chagall Museum (actually designed by the artist) in Nice; Unterlinden Museum (with the Isenheim Altarpiece) in Colmar; and Paris’ newly renovated Orangerie (with Monet’s Water Lilies and much more) are all great. The Jacquemart-André Museum in Paris offers an intimate peek into the domestic world of 19th-century aristocratic France. The Caen Memorial Museum is great for WWII.

What or where, in your opinion, is France’s best-kept secret?
I can be in Lyon and enjoy an elegant French urban scene with no hint of crass tourism.

Many Americans choose to visit Paris. Where can you recommend that is off the beaten track?
See Paris as a collection of villages. Find a village street and — as a temporary local — shop, taste, and browse your way down it with all the Parisians. Some of my favorite moments in Paris (and I can’t vouch for the safety) have come when walking around late at night. Jardin du Palais Royal, Place des Vosges, Ile St. Louis, Ile de la Cité…delightful just before bedtime.

Tell me about a memorable meal you’ve had in France?
(Given the state of our dollar, I’ll use a humble meal.) I was munching a baguette with Emmentaler cheese and sipping my box of juice on a bench in front of the floodlit Chartres cathedral. The bum on the next bench leaned over. We both acknowledged how life is good, and this Gothic church — glowing against a starry night sky — was gorgeous. And he reached his hand out with a plastic bottle to offer me a sip of red wine.

Marketing Travel — Paradise Beyond Imagination

To me, consumer travel shows are carnivals of crass materialism. Walking the halls, I wonder how many of the participants really believe in what they’re selling. Sure, there’s good information hiding — but it’s a challenge for a visitor to sort through the advertising to find it. Slaloming past human Statues of Liberty and boy-toy human peacocks marathon-dancing to steel drum bands, I considered the various slogans tourist boards and travel companies posted to lure potential travelers to their booths.

Puerto Rico — No passport required. (Why would a traveler want one of those?)

Rock N Roll Fantasy Camp. (Imagine lunching with Elvis look-alikes on your next vacation.)

Jamaica — Once you go…you know. (You do?)

Eldertreks — Exotic adventures for travelers 50 and over. (I made it…old enough for a tour company with “elder” in its name.)

Nevis — Everything you’ve heard is true. (Can “nothing” be true? I learned it’s an island in the Caribbean…apparently a nice one.)

Bimini Bay — A paradise beyond imagination. (They underestimate me.)

Israel — Who knew? (Is there something I should know?)

Fiji Me. (Kalamazoo you.)

LOT Polish Airlines — You’re under our wing. (How does it smell?)

Air Ambulance Card — We bring you home. (No thanks.)

At the Saxony tourism booth, at first I saw no sign or slogan, just two men in black suits.

Still, each year we ship our best tour salespeople and tons of brochures to these shows (in Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles, and New York)…getting the word out to people who come by the booth to say, “You’re taller than you look on TV. I love your TV show and we never miss your radio podcast. Oh, I didn’t know you did tours.” I fly home thinking, “I guess travel shows are worth the effort.”

Love Fest in a Roman Stadium

I’ve always wanted to go to a football (“soccer” to Americans) game in Europe. But it takes the better part of a day, and my research and filming schedule has never allowed it. Last Sunday, my son Andy and I finally got to see a game…courtesy of Stefano (who runs Hotel Oceania). It was Rome against Florence.

Converging on the stadium, Stefano parked on a curb (tipping a couple of thugs to watch — or maybe just not vandalize — the car). I find Rome’s stadium evocative: surrounded by Mussolini-era statues (each a stern and glorious fascist hero), and mosaics still heralding “il Duce” and showing the fascisti(“bundle of sticks” — so much stronger than a single, easy-to-break one).

They’re cracking down on football fan violence all over Europe, and real progress is being made at taming the stands. Stefano said this particular game was considered high-risk for violence, so a single purchaser could only buy three tickets, and they wouldn’t sell seats together (something he’d never encountered). In order to lower the provocative police presence at stadiums, legions of security “stewards” are posted everywhere. You must show ID to buy a ticket, each ticket has your name on it, and you must show ID proving the ticket is yours to get in.

As it turned out, it was a tame game. But the spirit in the stadium is almost comically mean-spirited. At American college football games, when a player is down on the field, silence falls over the stands as players get down on one knee and pray. In Italy, when someone’s injured, they chant, Devi Morire! — “You must die! You must die!” Then, when the injured player is carried off, they sing, “You’re coming back, you’re coming back…in B division.” Why? Injuries are routinely faked.

The area beyond the goal is filled with the cheap seats designed for the most avid fans — they stand and sing the entire time, waving huge flags and tossing firecrackers that sound like a cannon firing. Every so often, the loudspeaker reviews the various financial, criminal, and team penalties that come with violent actions and racist and outlawed slogans.

Stewards surrounded the small contingent of Florence fans like a riot squad. After the game, they stayed in their seats while the Rome fans departed. Then the Florentines were escorted safely to their awaiting buses to return home (in this case, sad after a 1-0 loss).

The Bloggy Joy of Travel (with Politics)

For a year now, I’ve been injecting politics into my travel blog. It’s what I do. This blog is my selfish delight: to sort through impressions I pick up on the road in search of real meaning…and then share them with others. I find writing for this blog curiously enjoyable.

If you want chat about fun in the sun, duty-free shopping, and frequent-flier miles, and you’re still looking here…I have to wonder why. There are piles of other, much better travel blogs for you.

Peter referred to me “starting problems” with comments about the Marine, and so on. What problems? I don’t expect everyone to agree with me. In fact, I hope everyone does not. (If I want easy compliments, I just call my mom. Here, I crave smart people to disagree with me and explain — without insults — why.)

I float these observations in the hope that others can share related travel-inspired responses. We are just finding that a few people waging one-on-one debates on tangential issues takes away the focus of this blog.

I like Jimmy’s comment about the spirited debates in the British House of Parliament as being fun as well as pointed. That’s what I’d love to foster here.

If my travel experience causes me to think my Dad is needlessly afraid of Muslims, and then I teach my child to finish table grace bobbing his cute little arms up and down while saying “Allah, Allah, Allah” — I can’t think of a more appropriate story to share on this blog.

If that offends you, and you insist on coming back for more…the beatings will continue until morale improves.