Don’t Say "Cheese"…Say "Obama!"

On this last day before our nation kicks off the age of Obama, Anne and I fumble our way onto the D.C. Metro and get off on Capitol Hill, where we find a city primed for euphoria. Already the Mall is busy with people milling about. We’ll make the same trek tomorrow, when we’ll be competing with hundreds of thousands to witness the swearing in. Each of the congressional office buildings is besieged with visitors in long security lines — mostly queuing to pick up their inauguration tickets. We’re finding, however, that waiting in line is a joy right now, because everyone’s talking excitedly about tomorrow.

Congressmen and -women were hosting open houses in their offices. We hung out chatting with other Washingtonians at our Congressman Jay Inslee’s office before heading down to visit with another Washington State congressman, Rick Larsen. He explained how he and his family will camp out in his office overnight tonight, in order to be where the action is from the get-go tomorrow. It’s like that all over town. Our daughter is a student at Georgetown, where dormies are allowed two guests. That means in a tiny dorm double there could be six Obama fans crashing tonight.

It’s clear there is big work to do. Tempering my glee, Inslee reminded me that Obama is “just human.” I suggested that, in facing the challenges ahead, there should be no sacred cows — not social security, not Medicaid, and not the military. Jobs and national security should be decision drivers. Can some of the $400+ billion we spend on the Department of Defense morph into a war on energy dependency? Yes, Inslee told me — as long as the money stays nominally in the DOD. Imagine what that would do to national security (and jobs) if we provided all our own energy (shhhh: with our military budget)… My congressman is a leader in finding creative solutions to our multiple-yet-interrelated challenges.

We spent the rest of the day chilling (literally) in a city filled with people who’ve come early for the festivities. Jumbotrons on the Mall played clips of yesterday’s concert, featuring pop stars (James Taylor, Bruce Springsteen, John Mellencamp, Bono, and others) who had actively supported Gore, then Kerry, and then got behind Obama, and, finally — third time’s a charm — won!

People pose with the flag-strewn Capitol dome behind them. Today, when posing for pictures around here, you don’t say cheese…you say “Obama!” T-shirts go for $10; buttons are 3 for $10. Many read, “Yes we did.” I’d say it’s still “Yes we can.” The hard work lies ahead. Without a ticket for any of tonight’s balls, we hike home past streets lined with empty bleachers and red, white, and blue bunting. As the sun sets on the last day of the Bush presidency, we hike past cops on every corner and under helicopters scouring the city with powerful searchlights. Chilled to the bone, yet happy to be part of history, we get warm and rested…ready to rise early tomorrow to cheer on our new president and celebrate the American dream.

Flying to Washington — O Yes

Leaving Sea-Tac today, four extra police eyeball those of us boarding the plane. The cabin is filled with Obama pins, and lots of people reading Dreams from My Father. Flight attendants remark that the overhead lockers are filled not with bags but with the heavy coats of people expecting to spend most of Tuesday standing out in the cold. Following the Potomac River, chunky with ice, passing the hulking Pentagon, we touch down at National Airport. As soon as the wheels hit the tarmac everyone on the plane yells “Obama!” and chants “Yes We Can!” We take the Metro into our nation’s capitol, where absolutely everyone seems to be family, and feels ready to welcome a new president…and a new era. (tapped hurriedly on my iPhone)

Two Busy Days…and I’m Overwhelmed

Leaving home this morning I did something I’ve never done before: I actually tried to unlock our front door with my remote car-key button. It occurred to me that I’ve got too much on my mind. A new blog entry is just one extra thing. Here’s a hasty run-down of my schedule for the next two days: Today I have five hours of radio interviews — we’ll be generating raw interview recordings for our radio producer, Tim, who’ll make new shows with them. (Listen live to these raw recordings here.)

  • 10:00: Ireland, with tour guides Stephen McPhilemy and Pat O’Connor (topic: What happened to the Celtic tiger?)
  • 11:00: Spain, with tour guide Federico Barroso and Seville local guide Concepción Delgado
  • 1:00: Art appreciation outside museums, with Gene Openshaw (topic: Is art better in situ than in a museum?)
  • 2:00: What’s new in the Netherlands, and how to connect with Dutch culture, with tour guide Rolinka Bloeming
  • 3:00: Panel on European Union, with guides from Hungary, Spain, Ireland, and Italy
  • In the evening, I’ll host a party with our visiting European guides at Edmonds’ only spit-and-sawdust pub.

Tomorrow I’ll be busy hosting our annual tour-alumni reunion, where those who’ve traveled with us in the past can reconnect with each other and with the guides who’re in town. As a thousand travelers converge in our little town to celebrate their past and (we hope) future travels, I’ll give a series of promotional talks at our theater (to be filmed, and then shared on our website) and host get–togethers of alumni from our various tours. I just reviewed my schedule for tomorrow, to be sure I know where to go and when and have my “ducks in a row”:

  • 9:00-10:00 give talk: Best of Europe tour
  • 10:15-10:45 host reunion party: Italy tours
  • 11:00-11:20 quiet
  • 11:30-12:30 give talk: Italian Cities tour
  • 12:45-1:15 host reunion parties: France and Spain–Portugal tours (to be filmed)
  • 1:20-1:50 quiet, lunch
  • 2:00-3:00 give talk: Italy tour
  • 3:10-3:40 host reunion party: Best of Europe tours (to be filmed)
  • 3:45-4:15 quiet, coffee break
  • 4:30-5:30 give talk: Spain–Portugal tour
  • 5:45-6:15 host reunion parties: Britain, Ireland, Greece, and Turkey tours
  • 6:15-6:30 quiet, dinner in office
  • 6:40-8:00 give talk: Irreverent history of ETBD tours

Then I go home and pack – the next morning I’m flying to Washington, D.C. for the inauguration. I just learned to tie my tie, I have a new suit, and I’m excited to pack into the National Mall with several million people to welcome our new president.

“Ready…Go…Up!”: Surfering in Costa Rica

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And Andy makes it look easy

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I spend much of the morning stretching in anticipation of my 11:00 surfing lesson. As I pay my $65 fee, the salespeople at the hotel say it’s great for everybody. Then, at breakfast, a man who surfed all his childhood tells me he tried but couldn’t get up and was “humbled.” A ramshackle minibus meets us at the gate of our hotel. As Andy and I climb in, the beach boy greets us. It sounds like he says, “Are you ready to go suffering?” We pick up a few other gringo tourists and head for the beach. Someone predicts, “This’ll be good exercise.” I worry out loud, “Uh-huh, in humiliation.”

At the beach, we all put on tight stretch surfing shirts to protect our chests and bellies from chafing…all the ups and downs of learning to catch a wave. Then — looking like the Gilligan’s Islandcrew — we get in a line on the beach to “loosen up.” Our coach, Alberto, has us running, shuffling in a line to the right, running backwards, and shuffling to the left…perhaps just to entertain the locals hanging out at the beach.

Alberto then draws a line in the sand and says, “Lay on this.” He demonstrates the one critical motion for surfing: arch back — like a yoga-style mermaid stretch…hands below nipples…right leg stays back…quickly snap to your feet, bringing the left leg to the front as you stand. Repeat.

After a too-hasty intro on the beach, we’re issued our surfboards — not light, soft top, easy for my toes to grip, well-worn like something that’s weathered lots of turbulence. With runaway straps lashed to our ankles, we walk into the sea like a holiday chain gang.

The waves are just right for beginners. Several beach boys join Alberto and steady our boards facing the beach until just the right moment. Anticipating the cresting wave, they give us a shove (we are pre-paddlers relying on our coaches for propulsion) and yell, “Ready…go…up!” The kids in our group get up first time. They ride like daredevils on the ski slope. The older surfers in our gang struggle for the strength and overthink things.

Catching a wave, I get only “up” on my knees. Still, I sense the thrill of surfing. Even on my knees, I lean forward to go faster, lean back to slow down. As Alberto promised, the board — like a bike — is more stable when it’s moving. Perhaps the hard plastic fins are working.

The lunge muscle in my left leg is just not there, and my arms aren’t strong enough to throw my body up. Alberto says to not stop at the knees. Don’t think face-down. Pretend your head is going up first. Your head rockets up in one motion, springing the body off the board. Forget the right leg…it stays behind. I need to thrust up and plant my left foot directly under my body at a snowboarding angle for balance.

I fail and fail. Come close and tumble. The board spins disobediently away from me, dragging me like a small boy deserving a spanking toward the shore. I tame the board, face the waves, and fight through the surf back out. Hold the nose of the board high, cut it into the waves. You catch a wave going in. Catch a wave wrong struggling back out, and your board can smash you in the face.

My teacher says some old, out-of-shape guys just give up. He likes my determination. I flop onto the board like a rock cod that just jumped into a dinghy. My belly button lines up with the board’s mid-line. I’m facing the white Styrofoam surface, water sloshing and slapping, key left leg resting (knowing victory hinges on its ability to get me up), hands not gripping the edge (because then you lose altitude) but in the center, ribs pressing on my thumbs, coiled, poised, waiting for the gentle push by my teacher and the “Ready…go…up!” command. My nose is one inch from the board. My entire periphery is filled with the battered white of the board and warm Costa Rica sea slopping and sloshing before my eyes. People are gone. My soundtrack is just water.

Alberto promises to catch me a good wave. Suddenly the water is smooth and quiet. It’s the calm before the wave. My coach says this is it, and gives me a strong push. I pull my head back, see the entire front of the board as I arch up, then, in one motion, I push everything up. My left leg lands just right immediately under my body, and — like a weightlifter struggling for a personal best — it straightens up.

Suddenly I’m rushing before a foamy cauldron as the wave charges toward the shore…and I lead the way. I’m standing high above the noisy rush of the water, playing with my control, traversing as if to extend the ride. Then I crouch as if racing before an engulfing tunnel of a giant wave… even though I am on the baby slope in a harmless little three-footer. The ride seems longer than it is. And that 15 seconds of surfer exhilaration is worth all the surfering.

Jumping from my board as the wave runs out of steam, I pick up the board. Alberto back out at sea is giving a big two-thumbs-up. No more chain gang, I head back to catch another wave.

Photos from Costa Rica

Photography is lots of fun in a place like Costa Rica. Here are a few photos that bring home some of the experiences and fun we had. (I’m still debating in my mind whether or not to share with you my surfing — which in Costa Rican dialect sounds a lot like “suffering” — experience…complete with photos.)

In a land where most traffic seems to be off-road and on foot, suspension bridges are a bouncy godsend.
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Long hikes are rewarded by idyllic waterfalls and swimming holes.
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