More Sex and Drugs in the Low Countries

On my research trip through the Low Countries, I discovered several examples of the bold Dutch and Belgian approach to challenging social issues.

 

Dutch Pot Smokers Are Pro-Choice
“Coffeeshops” throughout the Netherlands sell a variety of perfectly rolled marijuana joints. With their Dutch green thumbs and state-of-the-art greenhouse technology, the pot sellers no longer need to import their exotic strains. It may be called “Thai” and it may smoke like Thai… but it’s Dutch-grown, Dutch-taxed, and Dutch-smoked.

Needle Bridge Has Lost Its Edge
Amsterdam once had the grittiest, most disgusting, and most dangerous sailors’ quarter you could imagine: Zeedijk street, right where the city hits the harbor. I remember venturing in here in the 1970s, when shady characters seemed to support every streetlamp and where the police just kept their distance. It was sex and hard drugs and wandering lonely souls. The Dutch decided to do something about this problem to take back this potentially wonderful corner of their city. Forty years ago, they decided to decriminalize the sale of marijuana (in “coffeeshops”), and then clean out the hard drug trade. Reviewing the policy recently, the Dutch have found that pot smoking has not gone up, the population of hard drug users is smaller and aging, and street crime has diminished. Whenever reactionary forces push lawmakers to change this pragmatic approach to drug abuse and tighten up on pot laws, gangs and criminals reappear in the streets, violence and turf wars ensue, and recreational soft drug users need to do business with criminal hard drug pushers. Today, throughout the Zeedijk zone, restaurants flourish — and what was nicknamed “Needle Bridge” is a delightful place to stop for a photo.

Red Light Antwerp — Just a Trip to the Mall
Many American tourists find Europe’s red light districts titillating. There was a time when ladies of the night were loitering around train stations and on the wrong side of the tracks in every sizable city. With stricter law enforcement, modern affluence, and the advent of easy access to porn on the Internet, the tourist rarely sees prostitutes on the street in Europe anymore. In many countries, brothels are allowed and limited to a certain zone. Amsterdam’s Red Light District is shrinking, as city officials are not renewing leases to red light landlords — or are giving them to other, more preferred businesses. Ports (like Hamburg and Amsterdam) are known for their red lights. The most impressive I’ve seen is in Antwerp. About four city blocks are pedestrianized and feel almost like a shopping mall. Here you can see the police station parked right in the middle of all that glowing red. I did notice that, while Antwerp has the biggest and slickest red light district, unlike other big cities, it has almost no sleaze elsewhere in town. In a sense, they cleaned the city up by sweeping it all into a small pile.

Cute Towns and Mighty Delta Works in Holland

When I research my guidebooks, almost by definition, I am always visiting and revisiting the same places. But I also like to take a few days here and there to scout out new places — both for future editions of the guidebooks and for future TV scripts. In the last month, I’ve visited lots of great places for the first time (or, at least, my first time to do research): Leipzig, Wittenberg, Erfurt, Hamburg, Antwerp, Ghent, and the lush lowlands of Holland.

Taking a couple of days to get away from Amsterdam, I enjoyed touring the Dutch countryside. I spent one day visiting the famous Dutch tourist trap towns. My take: Alkmaar — famous for its cheese market and cute…but not cute enough. Edam — full of history, charm, great hotels, and ambience. I love it. Volendam — grotesquely touristic…mix Killarney and Coney Island and then drizzle with herring juice. Marken — on every tourist map, but much less visited because of its relatively remote location (at the end of a five-mile-long manmade jetty). Rounding out my Dutch countryside experience were visits to the city of Delft and the Delta Works. Here are a few photos of places that left me with powerful impressions.


Reflecting on Canal Lilies

I found canals with reflections that would get Monet to set up his easel. Here in Delft, the entire town was twinkling and rippling like water lilies.

Marken Is Good Cute
Marken is a former island, left partially high and dry by the draining of the inland sea but still accessible by ferry. It’s quiet, perfectly quaint, and well-preserved, but not annoyingly crowded like Volendam. Here’s a great day out from Amsterdam: Catch a train with your bike to Edam and enjoy that town for the morning. Roll through the countryside to Volendam, where you’ll catch the ferry to Marken. Enjoy a break there before pedaling along the jetty and through the polder land back to Amsterdam.

Delta Works Needs More
I was excited to see the mighty Delta Works, where the delta of the great rivers that dump into the sea after cutting through the Netherlands are controlled for floods. I assumed there would be an equally mighty visitors’ center…but there was nothing exceptional for the independent traveler to see.

 

Just like the rubble of Roman ruins, modern engineering marvels can fall flat — unless an enlightening tour by a passionate expert brings them to life. For just that reason, the Delta Works is a huge hit on Day 6 of our “Heart of Belgium & Holland in 11 Days” guided tour. If you’d like to experience this corner of Europe with the advantages of a small group and an expert guide, follow this link: http://tours.ricksteves.com/tours/france-holland-belgium/belgium-holland.

Fish ‘n Chips ‘n Holland

Rene Konings has been a much-appreciated bus driver for our tours for about 15 years. And for three days, I enjoyed the luxury of having Rene as my personal driver through the Netherlands. Taking time to visit places not in my guidebooks, it was a vacation in the middle of my trip. Here, we’re in the historic yet virtually unknown-among-American-travelers little town of Zierikzee. And I’m getting a tasty lesson in the best fish ‘n chips I think I’ve ever enjoyed.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

Brussels Observations

Here are a few tidbits from my recent research trip to Brussels, Belgium:

High-Maintenance Belgian Beer Drinkers - Belgians are exacting consumers when it comes to beer. They appreciate a pub that's not owned by a single brewery, freeing them up to serve a good selection of their country’s literally hundreds of microbrews. Many Belgian pubs brag about the number of beers they serve. To add complexity to the mix, most special local beers are served in a glass unique to that beer. Connoisseurs insist that each beer’s character comes out best in the proper glass. If there’s a run on a particular beer and the pub runs out of that beer’s glasses, they ask the drinker whether they’d accept a close match for a glass, or if they’d prefer to change their beer order. Many will switch beers rather than drink one from the wrong glass.
The Glassy EU Headquarters in Brussels - The European Union headquarters — by bringing in tens of thousands of diplomats, bureaucrats, lobbyists, and so on — is literally changing the demographic make-up of Brussels. As the EU tries to accommodate its 23 official languages (and they do, in some ways), the practical language of governance has become English. The EU has had such an impact on Brussels that some say in a generation, English will become the city’s first language. The EU headquarters complex has long welcomed visitors with a pretty simple info desk and shop. But now it’s opened up a big and high-tech “Parlamentarium,” giving those who visit something much more substantive to experience and enjoy. That, coupled with the hourly free tour of the parliament building itself, makes for a much better visit now than in past years.
Feelin’ Groovy but Misguided Compassion? Early in the morning, the groovy sidewalks designed for blind people with white canes add an extra dimension to station designs all over Europe. These are expensive and well-intentioned, but I've never actually seen one used for its intended purpose. In fact, in many places, I've seen these grooves blocked by kiosks, flowerboxes, and bike racks. And yet, it seems that no one at the city council has the nerve to say no to a nice (but apparently impractical) idea for blind people.

Inspired to Find Your Niche

As I’ve been traveling through Belgium, I’ve been thinking about how rare and special it is when someone finds his or her niche. Here are three examples.

The Chocolate Lady
It’s so clear: A fundamental part of the joy of travel is to simply be in the presence of people who’ve found their niche. We only live once on this beautiful planet, and we have the personal challenge of doing with our lives what God intended — of finding our niche. I think that when you’re blessed enough to find a livelihood that fits your spirit, it gives you energy — and you, in turn, give the world a positive radiance. In Bruges, Belgium, Madame Dumon makes and sells chocolate. Keeping her little brown world cool in a heat wave, she makes sure everyone who enters gets a rich and creamy sample of their choice.

Michael Smeester runs my favorite hotel in Brussels. When you see his smile and feel his personal energy, you are not surprised by the name he chose: Hotel Welcome. With every visit to Brussels, I have a tradition of teaming up with Meester Smeester to blitz the city’s restaurants and be sure I’ve got the very best in my guidebook. The new edition will be much-improved as — with Michael’s help — I once again saw why locals brag, "Belgian cuisine...we eat as hearty as the Germans and as well as the French.”

Reflecting on My Coffin in Antwerp
Reflecting on My Coffin in Antwerp - I generally travel alone. It’s just me and my mortality. Travel often has me thinking about life, and, now that I’m at the age where I look at the obituaries more than I used to, I’m also aware that the years do go by. For centuries, churches have contributed to that awareness in different and creative ways. Here in Antwerp’s cathedral, a glass coffin seemed to fit this vagabond’s body as if tailor-made.