Egypt — Something Different for a Change

I just flew from Seattle to Cairo. After being here for just a day, it seems like a week. Of course, I swung by the pyramids, got my mug shot with the Sphinx, and rode a camel. But the real fun has been feeling the pulse of post-revolutionary Egypt in the chaotic streets of ancient Egypt, nothing about life survives. No palaces — only tombs. But experiencing and exploring today’s Egypt is all about life: struggling, finessing, surviving, embracing.

In Egypt, some things never change.
In Egypt, some things never change.

The big news this decade: a people’s revolution to replace the 30-year dictatorship of Hosni Mubarak with the only alternative well-organized enough to win an election, the Muslim Brotherhood…and the resulting nervousness about what the current government’s true vision for the people is.

The revolution in Egypt is clearly about freedom. With my guide, Hammad, I take a welcome-to-Cairo stroll under once-elegant French facades that seem battered to a pulp and caked in soot. Watching a car pull a U-turn into oncoming traffic, Hammad points out the fine line between freedom and chaos: A four-lane street is now a two-lane street with clothing sales racks swinging under commercial neon, constricting traffic. Women in scarves browse through displays of daring dresses, ignoring the commotion filling the sidewalks.

The streets of modern Cairo are busy with window shoppers.
The streets of modern Cairo are busy with window shoppers.

A merchant tells me, “People can talk freely about our government now. Before the revolution, bite your tongue. But our revolution is only just starting. We have much left to do.” While the country has veered in the direction of fundamentalism and religious rule, the people are most disappointed not with the new religious fervor…but with simple incompetence. There’s a pretty clear consensus on the streets: People think the guys in power simply don’t know how to rule. They’ve managed to put up racks of free books about Islam at all of the tourist attractions, but have yet to figure out how to organize the streets…or even collect the garbage.

On a crisp day, from my hotel window I can see beyond the intensity of Cairo to the majestic pyramids.
On a crisp day, from my hotel window I can see beyond the intensity of Cairo to the majestic pyramids.

Tourism is vital for the Egyptian economy. Oil-rich countries can afford their crazy leaders: Ahmadinejad, Chávez, Gaddafi — Iran, Venezuela, and Libya all had oil to fund their crazy and corrupt ways of governing. But Egypt has little oil, and its economy is in crisis. Egypt needs tourism. The tourist industry here directly employs four million people, and indirectly supports many, many more. I say, “The airport was quiet today.” Hammad says, “That’s not the word. It is dead.” He points to a towering Sofitel Hotel and says, “Only two floors are open out of 20. This is killing us.”

The streets of Cairo are jammed — but, except for in a few in fancy hotels or at the major sights, I never saw an American.
The streets of Cairo are jammed — but, except for in a few in fancy hotels or at the major sights, I never saw an American.

I saw a few German cruise groups at the pyramids, but I didn’t see an American tourist all day. And yet, while tourists are scarce, there are masses of locals everywhere. The city is absolutely teeming. Working my way through chaotic traffic back to the refuge of my hotel, I thought, “Egypt is too intense for many, but I’m really glad I’m here.”

I often call Europe “the wading pool of world exploration.” A city like Cairo isn’t the wading pool. It’s the deep end — and someone turned on the jets. If you can swim, the water’s great. But if you’re not quite ready to dive in, follow me here on my blog for some armchair Egyptian adventures. Starting today, and for the next two weeks or so, I’ll be sharing a couple of posts a day, including video clips, so you and I will be riding the same camel.

Egypt offers a very friendly welcome.
Egypt offers a very friendly welcome.

Photo by Trish Feaster (For her Egypt blog, see http://thetravelphile.com/.)

Radio Series Attracts EU Underwriting

Rick-Radio

The public radio series “Travel with Rick Steves” has secured major underwriting support from the European Union Delegation to the USA through April 2014.

According to a statement from the delegation, “Rick Steves celebrates the diversity of Europe while at the same time reminding people how much Europe has achieved by working together. In this way — in the context of a radio series that brings the entire world closer to home — he also gives Americans a deeper understanding of Europe and the EU.”

Soon, with every episode, listeners will hear:   “Travel with Rick Steves is made possible in part by the European Union Delegation to the USA. The European Union received the 2012 Nobel Peace Prize for promoting peace, human rights and democracy. Information available at EUintheUS.org

…and…

“Travel with Rick Steves is made possible in part by the European Union Delegation to the USA. Tips about traveling in Europe and information about the EU is available at EUintheUS.org

Are Guidebooks Dead?

Rick-Frommer

Last month, three things happened that were interesting to me as a guidebook writer: After Google purchased the venerable Frommer’s guidebook series, they announced that they would no longer keep them in print. I read an article about the “rapid decline of the printed guidebook.” And I got my biggest royalty check ever in payment for my guidebook sales.

A couple of weeks ago, I had a coffee with Arthur Frommer at the Washington DC Travel and Adventure Show. While he sold the guidebook series with his name on it a long time ago, Arthur still gives spirited talks at such shows all around the country. The first edition of his GI’s Guide to Traveling in Europe, which eventually became the groundbreaking Europe on $5 a Day, was published the year I was born (1955). I have a copy of it on the bookshelf in my office as a kind of personal and thankful reminder of how Arthur’s work gave people like my parents the confidence to travel independently through Europe back when that was a new thing for middle-class Americans. You could make a case that without Arthur Frommer opening that door for my family in 1969, I’d still be teaching piano lessons.

I loved traveling with Arthur’s book for a decade (along with the backpackers’ guide, Let’s Go: Europe). Arthur’s personality — his sass, elegance, and Ivy League respect for culture and language — along with his passion for making Europe accessible (first to his fellow GIs, and ultimately to a whole generation of American travelers) inspired me. Way back in 1984, Arthur invited me to appear on his cable TV show and introduced me as “Rick Steves, the new Steve Birnbaum, Eugene Fodor, Temple Fielding of the travel guide industry.” At the time, his prediction seemed a little wacky, but — in part because most publishers have found it’s cheaper to write and update guidebooks by committee rather than employ individual personalities — my generation has failed to produce a class of well-known guidebook writers. Arthur Frommer’s endorsement was a huge break for me, and even though I had a hard time believing it, I used the quote a lot.

ETBD-Frommer

In an age of consolidation, when only big is viable, guidebook publishers are big and few in number. The major guidebook series in the USA are Fodor’s, Frommer’s, Lonely Planet, Dorling Kindersley, and Rick Steves. And for many of these, the future looks shaky. Lonely Planet was owned by BBC in London for less than six years before they unloaded to a tobacco tycoon it for less than half what they originally paid. Its fate is unknown. Frommer’s was purchased in August of 2012 by Google, who recently announced that they will let almost all of their 350 titles go out of print — leaving the company with piles of data to shuffle into its searchable banks, but no bookshelf presence. Dorling Kindersley (or “DK,” publishers of the glossy, illustrated Eyewitness and Top 10 series) is owned by Penguin, and Fodor’s is owned by Random House — and now that those two publishing giants have agreed to a merger, DK and Fodor’s are likely to merge with them, creating more uncertainty.

And the Rick Steves line? We’re as strong and determined as ever. This week, I’m setting out with a band of 25 fellow researchers with the goal to visit in person virtually every sight, hotel, restaurant, launderette, train station, boat dock, and other place mentioned in our guidebooks, as we make them up-to-date for next year.

I think guidebook publishers are challenged in the same way news corporations are. It’s expensive for news services to pay for individual correspondents to bring home the news when it’s just out there on the Internet for all to scarf up — and viewers don’t necessarily respond to more costly, higher-quality journalism. And, in the case of TV news, the limited funds are much better spent on a good-looking anchorperson to read the news rather than quality people to gather it. That’s why top-notch investigative journalism is at a critical low point these days.

Considering the modest profit margin for publishing a guidebook, publishers have a similar problem in hiring trained researchers to actually research their books in person. And new crowdsourcing alternatives to guidebooks (like TripAdvisor, CruiseCritic, Booking.com, Yelp, Urbanspoon, and so on) give travelers the impression that they have all the reviews they’ll ever need from other consumers. With the increasing popularity of these options, a tough business equation has become even tougher.

All of these review-based websites are certainly useful and informative, and I use them myself when traveling somewhere new. But I believe that — just as you wouldn’t want to get all of your news from amateur bloggers — casual online reviewers take a hit-or-miss approach that isn’t always an improvement on an experienced guidebook researcher with a trained eye. Most users reviewing hotels on TripAdvisor have experienced a few dozen hotels in their lives; a professional travel writer has inspected and evaluated hundreds, or even thousands. And, while these sites are particularly helpful for sleeping and eating, they do virtually nothing to explain what you’re seeing when you get there. Guidebooks’ sightseeing advice, self-guided museum tours, and neighborhood walks help you engage with and understand the place you’ve traveled so far to see, with a depth that crowdsourced websites don’t even attempt. For all of these reasons, I find crowdsourced sites a handy tool to enhance, but not replace, the information I learn from a good guidebook.

Complicating matters is the advent of digital, non-print formats, which challenge traditional book-business thinking. But, while ebooks seem exciting, print sales still dominate (for now, at least); only about 15 percent of total guidebook sales are electronic.

Are guidebooks dead? Not yet, that’s for sure. I’m flying to Egypt and the Holy Land as I write this, my bag heavy with Lonely Planet, DK, and Bradt guides to Egypt, Israel, and the Palestinian Territories. The question can be interpreted in two ways: Will people still be traveling with good old-fashioned print guidebooks in tow? And is the entire concept of a guidebook (whether in print or electronic) still viable? My take: For another decade, travelers will be toting print editions of guidebooks. Slowly, print will be replaced by digital. There will be a battle between various electronic information services, including guidebooks. Many users will opt for GPS-driven, crowd-researched apps. But plenty of others will still use guidebooks in their futuristic digital format — probably souped up with streaming video and GPS features. And, God willing, I’ll still be out there making sure mine are accurate and up-to-date.

 

A Tie? Let’s Give Away TWO Trips to Europe!

Tour Scrapbooks can tell more about an experience — honestly — than mere marketing. (photo by Terry Deem)
Tour Scrapbooks can tell more about an experience — honestly — than mere marketing. (photo by Terry Deem)

This week I gave away two European tours when I only had to give away one. I couldn’t help myself. These travelers really earned it.

Every spring, I offer a free tour to the winner of our annual Tour Alum Scrapbook Contest. Anyone who travels on one of our 40 European tour itineraries has a chance of winning if they take the time to express what their trip was like in an original online scrapbook. The creativity and enthusiasm of this year’s first and second place entries (as determined by a fine group of judges in my office) was so engaging that I had to override their ranking and declare both entries grand prize winners.

That’s what cost me the extra tour, and it’s worth every penny.   To page through the top four finishers (and get an irresistible taste of our Spain, Turkey, Best of Europe and My Way Europe tours), visit my scrapbook winners page.

Does this inspire you to scrapbook your own trips?

Tweaking Your Julekake

European-Christmas-book-cover

I am thankful that our Rick Steves’ European Christmas special has become a standard part of public television holiday scheduling. Most stations run it each Christmas. I brag that for everything we eat in the program, there’s a recipe in the companion book, Rick Steves’ European Christmas. Making this book, we collected European recipes throughout our Christmas travels. We simply converted their grams, milliliters, and Celsius to teaspoons, cups, and Fahrenheit for American cooks. But I’m no cook, and I just trusted what my European friends told me. And over the years, I’ve wondered — did we do it right? Do the recipes work?

When our publisher asked us to print a new, improved edition of the book, my staff reminded me that no one had ever really tested these recipes. Obviously, that needed to be done. So the cooks on our staff rose to the challenge and volunteered to actually cook up each of the Christmas treats (just in time for Easter).   After scouring local markets for ingredients (some harder to find than others), our tour-guide cooks donned their aprons at home and baked up a sleighful of holiday goodies, from mince pie, Christmas pudding, and gingerbread, to panettone (Milanese sweet bread), panforte (dense Italian fruitcake), and julekake (Norwegian Christmas cake). They served beef tenderloin with good French wine, sipped hot German glühwein, and dipped bread in a communal pot of bubbling Swiss fondue.

The test kitchen results are in. It turns out that the book’s recipes are pretty darn good. We’ve rewritten a few for clarity, but most needed just a couple tweaks here and there. Among the changes for the new edition, we’ll adjust the baking temperature for the panettone, cut the Christmas pudding in half (really, who needs four pounds of the stuff?), amp up the citron and dried fruit in the julekaka, and do a better job of explaining how to prepare the perfect beef tenderloin.

European-Christmas-cookie

The test cooks have my appreciation — and later in 2013, when you can try out the updated recipes for yourself. And let me be the first to wish you a merry Christmas!