Filming Rick Steves’ Europe in the Netherlands

I’m excited that we are embarking on a 12-day shoot to produce two shows in the Netherlands.

Ten years ago, we made one episode combining Amsterdam with side trips into the Dutch countryside. In this shoot, we’ll retire the old show and replace it with two episodes: one just for Amsterdam and the other just for the Dutch countryside. This will let us share double fun in Holland.

For example, doing two shows instead of one makes room for Haarlem, a charming small town a quick train ride from Amsterdam. We enjoyed filming an organ concert in Haarlem’s church.  I only get 3,200 words per script, so each word needs to earn its place. Here’s that part of the script—5 sequences out of 70 in this half-hour episode (OC means “on camera” — a part I say to the camera):

[38] Haarlem’s Grote Kerk, or Great Church, towers over the market square as if to bless all the business that takes place below.

[39] Inside, you find a towering Gothic nave, which was whitewashed and purged of its Catholic ornamentation when the Reformation arrived in 1566. Small frescoed sections, revealed when the whitewash was cleaned off, show how the entire church was originally decorated. Ships hanging in the nave remind parishioners to pray for all the men at sea. If you know where to look, carvings can be whimsical: crazy little characters supporting the roof…and what were called “pillar biters” mocking people who were overly devout.

[40 OC] And as was the case in many Protestant countries, rather than huge preachy works of visual art — like frescos and statues promoting the message of the Church — the artistic emphasis was put on music.

[41] Protestant churches invested in mighty pipe organs. Haarlem’s towering organ has been giving worship an inspirational soundtrack since 1738.

[42 beauty sequence of Jos van der Kooy playing Cornelis J. Bute Gavotte I & II] And visitors can enjoy free concerts weekly. [Fade to black]

 

Rick-Steves-TV-crewOur core filming crew, as always, is three of us: me, the producer (Simon), and our cameraman (either Peter — pictured here — or Karel). Lately, I’ve enjoyed adding a local expert to be sure we’re communicating clearly and to smooth the way behind the scenes. My friend Rolinka Bloeming, who has led tours for us for nearly 20 years, had to be rescheduled from one of her Rick Steves tours so she could be our “fixer.” Rolinka speaks Dutch, knows her country expertly, has a way of opening doors, and is a delight to work with. She’ll be on her iPad and on her phone making sure we know where the windmills are turning and where herring’s in the smoker.

 

Haarlem-great-church-pipe-organIn Haarlem’s Great Church, we climbed up into the organ loft and filmed the organist playing the most spectacular pipe organ I’ve ever seen. I got to simply sit with the audience and enjoy the concert while my crew filmed a beautiful segment.

 

Filming-in-Haarlem-Grote-KerkWhen filming, we have to be super-organized to get what we need in the time we have. When the crew was in the loft with the organist, I was surveying the church like a little mouse, making a list of things to shoot to “cover the script.” Then I took Simon on a quick walk to show him my shot list. With the crew organized and at work, I got to sit down and enjoy the rest of the concert.

 

Edam-canalWe settled down for four nights in the cute-as-a-bunny town of Edam. Our home base, Hotel Fortuna, is nestled on a canal in a garden kind of world. (It made me nostalgic for a family visit here 25 years ago, when toddler Andy was enthralled by the box turtles in the hotel garden.) My room opened up onto a quiet perch over the canal, where I would go out after filming in the 11 p.m. twilight and just be still with the water and the birds. Across the way was in industrial dry dock…yet even that was cute. Here, I snuck a photo of producer Simon reviewing our latest script immersed in Dutch beauty.

My Freshest Tips for Smooth Rail Travel

So far on this trip, I’ve really enjoyed using trains to get around Germany and the Netherlands — they make travel fast, smooth, and efficient. Here are a few photos to illustrate strategies for smart rail travel anywhere in Europe.

Fast-bullet-train

The new generation of bullet trains in Europe are sleek. In fact, they’re so sleek that when a city has an old-fashioned, dead-end train station, the new trains often don’t even bother to stop in the city itself, but at a pass-through suburban station instead. New stations are designed — at the insistence of the train companies — to be pass-through stations. Everything’s going very fast these days, and there’s just no time to pull in, then back out.

train-car-signs

No smoking, no talking, no cellphones. You have your choice of train cars — all clearly marked (although none allows smoking anymore). Among Europeans, American tourists are notorious for talking like they’re the only people on the planet, making everyone else on the car listen to their conversation. And you know how annoying it is to listen to someone else’s drawn-out cellphone conversation. Enjoy making a point to take advantage of signs as you travel: If you want peace and quiet, you’ll get it in this car.

train-chart

Trains are long, it’s hot over here, and luggage can be exhausting to schlepp around needlessly — especially if the train platform is mobbed with travelers. Notice and understand signs to save time and stress. Few Americans realize that on big-city train platforms, there’s a chart listing major trains, with a diagram of how each train is arranged: first class (yellow), second class (green), and dining car (red). It even shows specific car numbers — handy if you have a seat reservation. Overheard on the platform are big A, B, C, and other lettered signs to help you find just which zone to stand in to have your train car stop right in front of you. Very often, a long train has ten second-class cars, but just one first-class car. If you have a first-class Eurail pass (as nearly any railpass holder over 26 does) and you don’t notice signs like these, you could wander all the way to the far end of the platform, then realize that you could have just waited at the opposite end. The conductor just blew the whistle, and you need to jump on the train or be left behind. So you spend the next 15 minutes struggling through the crowds to get to your first-class compartment…not very first-class.

First-Class Train to the Netherlands

I’ve been riding Europe’s rails since I was a kid. And to this day, a long, fast train trip gives me a youthful thrill. I marvel at how Europe’s trains just keep getting better, faster, and more comfortable.

Having completed the Germany guidebook research stretch of my trip, I’m heading for Amsterdam to meet the film crew. I’m spending seven hours on one of Germany’s superfast ICE (InterCity Express) trains, writing and enjoying every moment — because for me, there’s very little that’s better than stretching out in a first-class quiet car, blitzing through Germany, while massaging my gangly notes into smooth and tight new writing for the upcoming 2015 edition of Rick Steves’ Germany guidebook.

Just Call Me Signor Match-Maker

I just got an email that made me really happy. And I’ve got to share it. Last April, when I was filming in Padua, Italy, I posted a photo of Samuele, a crazy Italian student we worked with there who wanted to capitalize on his connection with me to get an American girl. He seemed nice enough — with great hair — so I thought I’d help him out. I posted his photo with this message: “If you’d like to meet a wild and crazy student from the north of Italy… there’s a good chance he’d like to meet you too. Contact Samuele via his Facebook page.”

Well, Samuele’s stunt worked and he found his girl. Check out this photo and note I received from Mandi Shaw-Koehler:

“Dear Rick,

I believe my mother was unable to contain her excitement and emailed you about my journey to Padua to visit Samuele Zanetti, whose photo you posted on facebook when you were filming with Padua’s Goliardia!!

I’ve been watching Rick Steves travel videos since I was a little kid. I’ve always had a strong sense of wanderlust, and I’m currently on week 9 of my epic 2014 “EuroTrip!!” I’m a senior at Rutgers University and just finished a summer semester in Berlin and now, armed with my Eurail pass, I’m visiting as many countries as possible before I fly home in August.

Anyway, when you posted Samuele’s photo I thought it was absolutely hilarious (and oh so Italian) and sent him a friend request. Lo and behold, we quickly became quite chatty and he invited me to stay at his apartment and offered to “be my tour guide” when I came to Italy. Well, he’s been nothing short of a perfect gentleman – he’s shown me around the entire city of Padua, day-tripped with me to Verona and Venice, and he’s an excellent cook! And of course, like you pointed out, he has great hair. This week has been the best week of my entire trip, and I gotta owe it all to you. When Sam’s friends ask “how did you guys meet?” he launches into the story in enthusiastic Italian, hand gestures and all. I really do think it’s quite a unique story.

The photo I’m sending was Samuele’s idea – we took it in the exact same location as the photo with you. So, thanks Rick — Samuele found his American girl!

Cheers from Padua!
Mandi Shaw-Koehler”

Wrapping Up My Time in Germany

Finishing up my latest trip to Germany, I’m excited to share a few final thoughts…and pictures.

My two-month-long summer trip is made up of five modules: Germany guidebook research, TV production in the Netherlands, Scandinavia guidebook research, TV production in Prague and Berlin, and Poland guidebook research. Now that I’m done with “module one,” I’m off to meet the film crew in Amsterdam. But first, here are a few German scraps I found at the bottom of my rucksack.

Local-guide-in-Germany.jpg

Each day so far on this trip, I’ve enjoyed the help of local guides. Nearly every city in Europe has great local guides who are independent businesspeople scrambling to fill their calendars and earn a living. I list my favorites in my guidebooks, and while many get lots of customers from these listings, I’m amazed (considering how many people are using my books) how few enlist the services of a professional local guide. Sure, it’s a splurge. But so is a nice dinner.

Inside-a-tram.jpg

So far on this trip, I’ve committed myself to using local public transportation. European cities do a marvelous job of making life easy for people with no cars. And tourists are people, too. Give public transit a chance in your travels. Buy an all-day pass and use the trams for everything. I find it changes your American understanding of what public transportation can provide.

p

One of the biggest bits of transportation news in Germany is the advent of cheap intercity bus fares. Germans are all abuzz about new deregulation that opens things up. In front of each train station, I noticed buses loading and unloading budget travelers. These companies use the autobahns rather than the rails to get from A to B… for half the money. While I still take the train and love the speed and smoothness of rail travel, if you’re on a tight budget, consider this new option.