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Destination: Turkey

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I want to take a quick break from reporting in Italy to talk about my recent posts explaining how we filmed a circumcision party in Turkey. I apologize if the tone of my writing seemed disrespectful of a topic I didn’t realize people were so passionate about. I now understand that caring people feel very strongly about it. And the discussion on my blog has given me a better appreciation for this issue, which is clearly important to many people. Thank you.

For twenty years, I have made TV shows about European culture. I have shown controversial aspects of many cultures, from force-feeding geese for foie gras in France to bullfights in Spain. In each case, I’ve heard from people — whose opinions I respect — who are passionately against what I’ve shown. They have wanted me not to put these things on television. But in my role as a travel writer and TV producer, I have made a decision not to make judgments about institutions that are important to a culture, whatever my own personal feelings about them might be. It’s not my job to censor them from you, my viewers. These things exist, regardless of whether I (or you) agree with them or oppose them. And as travelers, we all have the opportunity to see them, learn from them, and then draw our own conclusions.

Now, back to Italy!

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Our Turkish Finale: Quality Time with Ataturk

After the rough and rustic small towns and countryside, we finished our Turkey shoot in the country’s modern capital, Ankara. It feels like a boom town and the traffic was horrific. No trip to Turkey is complete without spending a day in one of its thriving and cosmopolitan big cities.

Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, one of the greatest statesmen of the 20th century and the father of modern Turkey.
Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, one of the greatest statesmen of the 20th century and the father of modern Turkey.

After six weeks of travel in the Middle East, I’m acutely aware of how important a forceful politician is for emerging democracies. When a country is blessed with a strong and charismatic leader — who is above corruption and pettiness, who can speak to the people as a nation, not as rival segments — the sheer political force of that single person can raise the fortunes of the entire society. And, conversely, a single person not deserving of power can abuse the trust of his or her people and run a country into the ground. The father of modern Turkey is Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. Even though he died nearly a century ago, I believe he is the reason for Turkey’s success relative to its neighbors today. And, understandably, you see him everywhere you go in this country. He moved the capital city from Istanbul to the center of the country, to Ankara. I can’t think of a person in the 20th century who had a greater positive impact on his homeland than this man. Can you?

The Mausoleum of Ataturk strives to fit the greatness of the man it is designed to honor and memorialize.
The Mausoleum of Ataturk strives to fit the greatness of the man it is designed to honor and memorialize.
After two weeks of TV production in Turkey with our wonderful van, driver, and local guide Lale, I am spoiled. We’ve never enjoyed such a smooth process. I’m sure it was not all peaches and cream, but for the crew and me, it seemed like every door in Turkey was wide open for our camera. The result: Turkey will be looking really good to a lot of American travelers when our new series debuts in the fall of 2014.
After two weeks of TV production in Turkey with our wonderful van, driver, and local guide Lale, I am spoiled. We’ve never enjoyed such a smooth process. I’m sure it was not all peaches and cream, but for the crew and me, it seemed like every door in Turkey was wide open for our camera. The result: Turkey will be looking really good to a lot of American travelers when our new series debuts in the fall of 2014.
One of the luxuries for me with my crew is that, with Simon, I never need to worry about gear or the safety of our precious footage. The only time I see Simon get religious is when all our hard work is done and stored on a little digital brick that’s ready to fly home to our editing suite. It seems like a long time now since we traveled with cassettes. We’re in the wonderful age of small cameras and everything recorded on hard drives. Two shows fit on one of these orange bricks. We’ve got a backup just in case we need more than Simon’s prayers.
One of the luxuries for me with my crew is that, with Simon, I never need to worry about gear or the safety of our precious footage. The only time I see Simon get religious is when all our hard work is done and stored on a little digital brick that’s ready to fly home to our editing suite. It seems like a long time now since we traveled with cassettes. We’re in the wonderful age of small cameras and everything recorded on hard drives. Two shows fit on one of these orange bricks. We’ve got a backup just in case we need more than Simon’s prayers.
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A Gift of Circumcision Creates a Lasting Impression

If ever you’re making a TV show about village and traditional culture in Turkey, be sure to arrange to film a circumcision. For a few hundred dollars you can hire the band, the doctor, and the horse, and pay for all the pizzas and soft drinks. We even paid for the boy’s prince outfit. From a TV production point of view, it was a marvelous value. And the most beautiful moment for me was the heartfelt thanks the dad gave me as we left. I promised we’d send him a copy of the show as soon as it was finished.

[Clarification: Since I first posted this, several commenters have expressed concern not only that we filmed this event, but that we paid for it. While this probably goes without saying, I want to clarify the circumstances: This rite of passage is an important part of life in this part of the world. In the sense that it comes with a big, expensive party for the entire community, it’s not unlike a bar or bat mitzvah, or a quinceañera. This family would have thrown their party, at substantial expense, whether or not our cameras had been there. But they were generous enough to let us come and share their personal celebration with viewers half a world away, so we wanted to thank them by helping to defray their costs. Of course, we did not film the circumcision itself, but were able to capture the spirit of a cultural celebration that we believe our armchair-traveling audience might find interesting and insightful of a culture that they may never be able to visit in person. ]

Before meeting the doctor, the young man of the hour was having a wonderful time. Here, proud in his fancy outfit, he loads into a decorated car to parade through the village.
Before meeting the doctor, the young man of the hour was having a wonderful time. Here, proud in his fancy outfit, he loads into a decorated car to parade through the village.

A good circumcision comes with a decorated horse and a three-piece band. The extended family, and anyone who hears the commotion and wants to drop by, is welcome. It’s a grand festival.
A good circumcision comes with a decorated horse and a three-piece band. The extended family, and anyone who hears the commotion and wants to drop by, is welcome. It’s a grand festival.

In an hour, the last thing this boy will want to do is straddle a horse.
In an hour, the last thing this boy will want to do is straddle a horse.

A touching moment when the boy, about to be circumcised, is comforted by his mother and the Muslim equivalent of his godfather.
A touching moment when the boy, about to be circumcised, is comforted by his mother and the Muslim equivalent of his godfather.
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We left the family and doctor alone in the home, put the camera down, and joined the party outside. The doctor said things went just fine…but we never saw the boy again.
We left the family and doctor alone in the home, put the camera down, and joined the party outside. The doctor said things went just fine…but we never saw the boy again.
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Pomp and Circumcision

Fifteen years ago I paid for a poor family’s circumcision in order to include it in a TV show and I was eager to do it again. A circumcision is a big deal in Turkey. It’s a wonderful, full-blown family festival — a cherished celebration that they say is like “a wedding without the in-laws.” But putting on such a party can bring economic hardship on a poor family. I told Lale, who helps run our Turkey tour program, that we’d happily pay for one if it would help out a struggling family — and if we could film it. Talk about win-win (unless you’re the little boy, I suppose). This clip shows our crew scrambling to capture the scene as the boy, dressed like a little prince, approaches on his horse.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

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Turkey Travel by Bus and by Boat

I try to show the more mundane realities of travel along with all the glorious sights in my shows. For instance, when exploring Turkey, the bus system is excellent: I wouldn’t drive or take the train. The best approach for travelers is to take cheap flights for long hops and intercity buses for shorter trips. Another fun dimension of traveling here is taking a little cruise along the Turkish Riviera.

My early memories of travel in Turkey, back when I was a student, included long bus rides. On board was an attendant who handed out water and sprinkled cologne on all the stinking passengers. The tradition survives — and we filmed it.
My early memories of travel in Turkey, back when I was a student, included long bus rides. On board was an attendant who handed out water and sprinkled cologne on all the stinking passengers. The tradition survives — and we filmed it.

Lale and her husband, Tan, spearheaded the research and writing of the Rick Steves’ Istanbul guidebook. They coordinate our booming Turkey tour program and, with the help of our tour department, have trained a number of excellent guides who take good care of our groups. Now Lale is taking two weeks away from her family to help us weave the things we see and experience in our tours into two new TV shows.
Lale and her husband, Tan, spearheaded the research and writing of the Rick Steves’ Istanbul guidebook. They coordinate our booming Turkey tour program and, with the help of our tour department, have trained a number of excellent guides who take good care of our groups. Now Lale is taking two weeks away from her family to help us weave the things we see and experience in our tours into two new TV shows.

The Turkish coast just west of Antalya has peaceful beaches and great swimming. This bay also comes with an amazing ancient ruined city— Phaselis. Photo credit: Dean Cannon.
The Turkish coast just west of Antalya has peaceful beaches and great swimming. This bay also comes with an amazing ancient ruined city— Phaselis. Photo credit: Dean Cannon.

We hired a gulet (a traditional Turkish boat) for a delightful day at sea —peaceful bays, a big lunch, backgammon with raki, and a refreshing dip — all with the camera rolling. Photo credit: Dean Cannon.
We hired a gulet (a traditional Turkish boat) for a delightful day at sea —peaceful bays, a big lunch, backgammon with raki, and a refreshing dip — all with the camera rolling. Photo credit: Dean Cannon.