It’s Day 60 of my 100-day trip to Europe, and I’m in Porto — Portugal’s “second city.”
Porto is real. Its economy isn’t driven by tourism, but by hard work, good governance, and a great urban vision. Walk with me (past a couple using my Rick Steves Portugal guidebook — always a happy sight) through what used to be a parking lot and is now a romantic olive grove in the middle of Portugal’s second city.
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In this clip, I marvel happily about “discovering” something new — after all these years of travel.
It’s Day 56 of my 100-day trip to Europe, and I’m in Tomar, a delightful town in central Portugal with little tourism and an amazing history. It’s the hometown of our tour guide, Fatima, who was excited to splice a visit here into our regular itinerary. And I’m so impressed, I’m adding it to the next edition of our Rick Steves Portugal guidebook.
Towering above this charming, workaday town is a castle with an Oz-like circular church (or “oratory”) built 800 years ago by the Knights Templar. The church (modeled after the Dome of the Rock or the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem) is where knights would go, often on horseback, to be blessed before battle as they defended Portugal against the Moors, protected pilgrims heading for the Holy Land, or just empowered Portugal in the age of discovery. After the Order of the Knights Templar was dissolved across Europe in 1312, the Order in Portugal simply morphed into the Order of Christ and carried on. Henry the Navigator was a Grand Master, and later, King Manuel (who became a Grand Master in 1484) ordered much building here. Under his leadership, the stout early-medieval castle was decorated in exquisite Manueline decor.
The Knights Templar was a rich organization. It was both a popular Christian charity and Europe’s first great bank — pilgrims gave money in the west, were given a “check,” and could make withdrawals along the way as they ventured east. If they died, which was common, the Templars kept their estate. (Always read the fine print!) The Templars — you could call them the first multinational corporation — built and managed about a thousand forts, stretching from Portugal all the way to Jerusalem.
To gape up at the majesty of the Templars’ church here in Tomar has been a highlight for me on my Rick Steves Heart of Portugal tour…and I hope we’ll find a way to make it a standard stop for future groups as well.
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Staring into the candle-wax firestorm that rages daily here in Fátima, Portugal’s most holy spot, it struck me that cultures all over the world have the same passion for getting close to God.
I’m here on a Rick Steves Heart of Portugal tour — and I’m glad that our guides are able to give us context and lead us into the holy fray in places like this, so we can feel and respect the religious culture of wherever we may be traveling. The faithful here believe that the Virgin Mary appeared in Fátima in 1917, on the 13th day of six successive months. On the sixth appearance, 70,000 locals gathered and were awestruck by the apparition. And last year, on the centennial of the first apparition, half a million pilgrims gathered on this esplanade to attend a Mass celebrated by Pope Francis.
The traveler’s challenge is not to judge, but to feel. Where have you been impressed by a powerful religious scene that is not yours?
I take a Rick Steves tour every year (it’s so much more fun than leading them) — and I know I’ll be staying in hotels that are warm, welcoming, ideally located, and often family-run. Here in Óbidos, Portugal, I opened my window each morning and marveled at our setting — peace and beauty you just can’t park a tour bus in front of. Our tour members understand that you earn that magic. They pack light and are ready to walk a couple of blocks to our awaiting bus.
The tour guide inside me loves departure mornings — I find myself singing the Rawhide theme as our tour groups load up and ride away. Head ‘em up…move ‘em on!
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Every year, I sign up for a Rick Steves tour under a pseudonym. (It’s fun — I get letters from myself.) And then, I surprise the group at our welcome meeting on the first day. This year, I signed up for a Heart of Portugal in 12 Days Tour — and I’m so glad that I did. We’re about halfway through the tour now, and for six days our guide, Fatima, has been filling us with Portuguese experiences, lessons, and memories — from the highest culture to the grittiest market scenes.
Here in Alcobaça, the market is entirely local. With our “Whisper System,” we have Fatima’s voice in our ears. And with her intimate narration of each little market kiss, ritual, and tradition, our visit is filled with meaning and insights. I love how a good guide can turn an impromptu stroll through a market into a fascinating peek into the local culture and an unforgettable travel memory. Thanks, Fatima!
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