My Summer’s Grand Finale: Siena’s Palio Horse Race

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Hold on to your gnocchi — it’s 
Siena’s Palio. The finale of my summer trip is in Siena, where my crew and I spent several days filming the Palio horse race for our upcoming European Festivals TV special.

In this photo, cameraman Karel Bauer and I are with our Sienese guide, Roberto Bechi, who — as you can see — is excited about the race…as he has been, twice a year, for all his life. Roberto, whose enthusiasm is contagious, got us the best seats and made sure we understood the elaborate and confusing rituals as they unfolded.

Across Europe, festival traditions go back centuries, and are filled with time-honored pageantry and ritual. Entire communities hurl themselves with abandon into the craziness. There’s no better example than here at Siena’s Palio.

In this gorgeously preserved Tuscan hill town, the Middle Ages seem to survive in the architecture and in the civic spirit. The city is known both for its pride and for its independent attitude. And twice a year, that spirit shows itself in a crazy horse race, as it has for five centuries.

While the actual race lasts 90 seconds, the festivities consume the city for days. For the next week or so, I’ll be bringing you a behind-the-scenes look at Siena’s Palio.


This is Day 90 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Vienna, the Alps, the Low Countries, England, Siena, and beyond. Find more right here on my travel blog.

The Story Behind Siena’s 750-Year-Old War Relic

I was just filming in the cathedral of Siena, my head spinning with its amazing art. Suddenly my Siena guide, Roberto, points out a tall, 750-year-old wooden post near and dear to the hearts of the Sienese people. As if it happened yesterday, he explained, “It was booty from a battle won at 8 a.m. on September 4th, 1260 — the last time we beat our arch rivals — the Florentines.”


This is Day 13 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Portugal, Spain, Italy, France, Bulgaria, Romania, and beyond. Find more at blog.ricksteves.com.

Al Stewart’s Biggest Fan in Rural Tuscany

My dad was a piano tuner, and in my travels, any time I see a piano, I have an urge to play it or hear it played. At Il Canto del Sole agriturismo, Luciano showed me around his farm while his son, Marco, attentively followed, seemingly fascinated by my work as a guidebook writer. When we came upon the family piano, I asked Marco to play. Oblivious to how horribly out-of-tune the piano was, Marco sat right down and belted out Al Stewart’s “Year of the Cat.” Coincidentally, that’s one of my favorite songs, and I’ll be seeing Al Stewart in concert in Everett, Washington, next month. It’s interesting to me that a pop song, written before Marco was born, would be part of this fun rural Tuscan moment. Al, if you’re there, you have a young fan just south of Siena. (And if there’s a piano tuner on the road in Italy, I’ll bet you can get a free night in a great B&B if you packed along your tuning hammer.)

Fabulous Flag Flourishes

Visiting agriturismos and countryside B&Bs listed in my Italy guidebook, I was impressed by how much fun the hosts were. Here, Franco of Frances’ Lodge (a B&B just outside of Siena) jumped at an opportunity to show off his flag skills. And then today, while writing in my downtown Siena hotel room, I could hear drums and drill teams out my window — it was school kids practicing the same moves Franco has had down now for 50 years.