Destination: Sicily

Palermo’s Vucciria Market is lively in the morning — but I like it even better after hours.

It’s my first night in Europe this year, and I’m fighting jet lag by simply being out and about — instead of just sitting on my bed, thinking, “I feel so tired and disoriented.” I strolled away from the busy main drag into Palermo’s characteristic back lanes, where I caught a bohemian-chic scene by surprise. For some reason, this scene taps into the mix of old and young, edgy and hedonistic, crumpled and free…and convivial.

Under the stars, melting into a world where young and old douse the downsides of Sicilian life with a nice drink and some good conversation, I consider the gift of neighborhood togetherness. Many countries have a special word for this cozy feeling of conviviality (hygge in Denmark, gemütlich in Austria, craic in Ireland). Here in Italy, it’s found in the piazza — a place for togetherness that’s affordable, multi-generational, and a little naughty. If you found a time thread peeking up from the shiny cobbles here and pulled on it, it would take you all the way back to ancient Rome.

This is just the first of 100 nights I’ll be in Europe, and it’s been the perfect welcome. As I travel from Sicily to Iceland, I’ll be sharing daily (or nightly) updates here and on my Facebook page — I hope you come along with me.

A cappuccino with a Capuchin!

Since the 1980s, I’ve spent every spring and summer in Europe — and I’m back again this year, ready for another 100 days of exploring, researching, learning, tasting, and sipping. I’m starting things off in Palermo — sharing a laugh at a neighborhood bar with my new friend, Brother Antonio. (I can’t think of a better way to kick off my spring travels.)

Over the next 100 days, I’ll be making TV in Sicily, updating guidebooks in France and Spain, joining a Rick Steves tour in Portugal, visiting the great cities of Central Europe (Budapest to Berlin), making TV in Scotland, and enjoying Iceland with our newest guidebook: Rick Steves Iceland. And every day, I’ll be checking in with you here and on my Facebook page, sharing an intimate and candid look behind the scenes at my day-to-day life in Europe. We’ll be stoking lots of travel dreams together — so be sure to let your traveling friends know.

By the way, the coffee drink “cappuccino” gets its name from the color of the robes worn by the Capuchin friars. I really, really wanted to drink a cappuccino with a Capuchin, and Brother Antonio was happy to join me for a nice laugh about it. (Like other Franciscans — the “Jugglers of God” — Capuchins are quick to embrace a spontaneous good time.) As I said “ciao” to Brother Antonio, he bid me “pace e bene” — peace and wellness.

Tonight, I’m going to explore Palermo’s back streets. I’ll be sure to post an update — see you then.