Smaller text Larger text

Destination: Italy

Posted on

Fun signs

All over the world, street art is making a statement. One theme has grabbed my attention lately. Inspired by an anti-authority message, graffiti artists are turning Do Not Enter signs into creative ways to say no to authoritarianism. You’ll see variations on this theme all over Florence.
florence-street-sign-art-1
florence-street-sign-art-2
florence-street-sign-art-3

Posted on

Intense, Exciting Florence

Our Best of Europe in 21 Days tour hits all the biggies: and one of those is certainly Florence. With just under two days each in Venice, Florence, Rome, and Paris, ever hour needs to be carefully planned. Hotels are central, restaurants are artfully chosen, and reservations are made for the major museums and sights (e.g. “David” in Florence, Vatican Museum and Colosseum in Rome, Louvre in Paris) so not a minute is wasted. Intense? Sure. Exciting? Absolutely.

In Florence there’s always a long line to see Michelangelo’s masterful "David." With reservations long in hand, our group walked directly in. Tour Guide Reid Cohen covered the context and the story before giving us quality time to be on our own with perhaps Europe’s greatest piece of art.
In Florence there’s always a long line to see Michelangelo’s masterful “David.” With reservations long in hand, our group walked directly in. Tour Guide Reid Cohen covered the context and the story before giving us quality time to be on our own with perhaps Europe’s greatest piece of art.
A big challenge when traveling with groups of 25 people is to find restaurants that enthusiastically welcome groups but that don’t feel like “tour-bus restaurants.” That’s why our guides love Ristorante Giglio Rosso. A pet peeve of mine is a tour that feeds you what’s expedient--oblivious to the region and season. In my early days--escorting groups on big, cheap, European bus tours run by other companies--I was amazed at how the food fed to the groups had nothing to do with where we were. On our tours, we eat what is seasonal--and we eat the regional specialties throughout.
A big challenge when traveling with groups of 25 people is to find restaurants that enthusiastically welcome groups but that don’t feel like “tour-bus restaurants.” That’s why our guides love Ristorante Giglio Rosso. A pet peeve of mine is a tour that feeds you what’s expedient–oblivious to the region and season. In my early days–escorting groups on big, cheap, European bus tours run by other companies–I was amazed at how the food fed to the groups had nothing to do with where we were. On our tours, we eat what is seasonal–and we eat the regional specialties throughout.
As a tour organizer, I feel a real triumph when we connect Europeans who have a passion for their work with appreciative travelers. At restaurants I never let a good dining experience go by without inviting the hard-working chef and kitchen crew to come out for a round of applause and to take a bow. And our groups enjoy personally thanking them for a meal they’ll remember fondly all their lives.
As a tour organizer, I feel a real triumph when we connect Europeans who have a passion for their work with appreciative travelers. At restaurants I never let a good dining experience go by without inviting the hard-working chef and kitchen crew to come out for a round of applause and to take a bow. And our groups enjoy personally thanking them for a meal they’ll remember fondly all their lives.
All over Europe, old Industrial Age, iron-and-glass farmers' markets seem to be celebrating their hundredth birthdays by getting a new lease on life as trendy food halls. Here in Florence, the old Central Market has been particularly enjoyable as a thriving local market, and now its long-neglected upper level hosts a wonderful collection of quality eateries--it's as busy as the produce stalls on the ground level. Central Florence has new, extremely restrictive driving and parking laws which keep most locals eating dinner in the suburbs. But Florentines seem to strive for good eating at lunchtime as a result. This new food court is a real hit with the neighborhood's office workers.
All over Europe, old Industrial Age, iron-and-glass farmers’ markets seem to be celebrating their hundredth birthdays by getting a new lease on life as trendy food halls. Here in Florence, the old Central Market has been particularly enjoyable as a thriving local market, and now its long-neglected upper level hosts a wonderful collection of quality eateries–it’s as busy as the produce stalls on the ground level. Central Florence has new, extremely restrictive driving and parking laws which keep most locals eating dinner in the suburbs. But Florentines seem to strive for good eating at lunchtime as a result. This new food court is a real hit with the neighborhood’s office workers.
Posted on

Venetian Glassblowing

While we all pride ourselves in getting away from the tourist clichés, as a tour operator I’m also excited about maximizing the classic experiences — even if they are touristy. And in Venice, one of those is a glassblowing demonstration.

Any tour group is welcome to climb the stairs from St. Mark’s Square to watch a mesmerizing demonstration, which is always followed by an entertaining 10-minute sales pitch in the showroom. As many guides live for the sales kickbacks to supplement their income, most tour companies really push this and similar shopping experiences (like diamond polishing in Amsterdam). But our tours accept no kickbacks for the shopping our tour members do, and anyone buying anything here gets the standard 20 percent guides’ kickback discounted off their sales price. That way, as we explain to our groups, you’re only paying double what you should be… rather than triple.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

P.S. I’m on a Best of Europe in 21 Days Tour.

Posted on

The Gondola Experience

Another Venice cliché, which I absolutely love, is the gondola ride. Sure, it’s expensive (about $160 for a 50-minute ride). But the cost (and romance) can be split by up to six people. While Venice is crowded, the gondoliers’ Venice is a parallel world of dreamy tranquility as your vessel slices through the city’s watery magic, providing a timeless, almost trance-like experience.

The route you take is determined by how much you pay (two options: €80 for 30 minutes or €120 for 50 minutes) and where you pick up your gondola. A highlight of any ride picked up near St. Mark's Square, of course, is gliding under the famous Bridge of Sighs.
The route you take is determined by how much you pay (two options: €80 for 30 minutes or €120 for 50 minutes) and where you pick up your gondola. A highlight of any ride picked up near St. Mark’s Square, of course, is gliding under the famous Bridge of Sighs.
As you’ll be in the care of one person, it’s important to choose a gondolier whose personality you enjoy. He’ll likely give a brief commentary if you like. I like to talk with several gondoliers before choosing my captain for the romantic little voyage.
As you’ll be in the care of one person, it’s important to choose a gondolier whose personality you enjoy. He’ll likely give a brief commentary if you like. I like to talk with several gondoliers before choosing my captain for the romantic little voyage.
The gondoliers generally pass their treasured license to work on the Venetian canals down from generation to generation. Some of them chat with each other and smoke as they pole you sloppily through the standard route. Others — like the one we chose — are charming and expertly give you an experience that, while pricey, I consider a very good value.
The gondoliers generally pass their treasured license to work on the Venetian canals down from generation to generation. Some of them chat with each other and smoke as they pole you sloppily through the standard route. Others — like the one we chose — are charming and expertly give you an experience that, while pricey, I consider a very good value.
At the end of our ride, we passed a family who flashed my guidebook. Only then did our gondolier find out what I do for a living.
At the end of our ride, we passed a family who flashed my guidebook. Only then did our gondolier find out what I do for a living.

P.S. I’m on a Best of Europe in 21 Days Tour.