Five Places in Europe That Stoke My Spirit

az110519xz-1059.jpgBasilica of Saint Francis of Assisi

As a Christian, I enjoy being open to spiritual experiences while on the road, and there’s no more spiritual experience than traveling to the developing world. To be with the world’s struggling and downtrodden is to be with Christ. My expertise as a writer and guide, however, is traveling through Europe, which also offers plenty of opportunities to get close to God. Here’s my guide to five places in Europe that stoke my spirit.

High in the Alps

As I walk high on a ridge in Switzerland, the Alps strike me as the greatest cathedral in Europe. Ride the rack-railway train from Wilderswil (near Interlaken) up to Schynige Platte, then hike along a ridge to Faulhorn, with its famous mountaintop hotel, and on to the perch called First. As you tightrope along the ridge, lakes stretch all the way to Germany on your left, and on your right is a row of cut-glass peaks — the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. The long, legato tones of an alphorn announce that the helicopter-stocked mountain hut is open, it’s just around the corner…and the coffee-schnapps is on. It’s enough to have even a staid Lutheran raising his hands in praise.

Spain’s Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage Trail

There’s a reason pilgrims have hiked from France to the distant northwest of Spain for more than a thousand years. Trekking with people of all spiritual stripes — or none at all — across the vast expanses of Spain, it’s easy to be one with nature and get caught up in a private talk with your maker. Everyone’s heading for the same point: the Cathedral of St. James in the city of Santiago de Compostela. And to be there as well-worn and sunburned pilgrims step on the scallop-shell pavement stone in front of the towering cathedral, overwhelmed with jubilation to have reached their personal goal and succeeded in their quest, is a joy in itself.

Assisi, Italy

I have a personal ritual of sitting quietly on the rampart of a ruined castle high above Assisi, the town of St. Francis. I look down at the basilica dedicated to the saint, then into the valley — where a church stands strong in the hazy Italian plain that marks the place where Francis and his “Jugglers of God” started the Franciscan order, bringing the word of God to people in terms all could embrace. Hearing the same birdsong that inspired Francis, and tasting the same simple bread, cheese, and wine of Umbria that sustained him, I calm my 21st-century soul and ponder the message of a saint who made the spirit of God so accessible.

St. Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican

Worshiping upon the tomb of St. Peter under the towering dome of Michelangelo in the vast expanse of the greatest church in Christendom — where incense gives earthly substance to ethereal sunrays — I ponder the centuries of devotion and tradition that have gone into building both this magnificent church and the Catholic faith. Throwing out my Lutheran cynicism, I appreciate it all as a humble and noble quest by countless people through the ages to better understand and get close to our heavenly Father.

Taizé, France

In the wine country of Burgundy, just down the road from Cluny (where the greatest monastic order of the Middle Ages was born), a rough lane leads to the ecumenical monastic community of Taizé. It welcomes all to gather with no regard to culture, language, or denomination. With a perfectly ecumenical embrace, people come together at Taizé to celebrate diversity, tune in to God’s great creation and the family of humankind, and become comfortable with silence, praise, meditation, singing, and simple living. Taizé gets you close to God.

What tips do you have for getting closer to God in your travels?

Video: Thanks for Joining Me for 100 Days of Europe

With this post, I wrap up my second big 2016 trip — two two-month European adventures filled with learning, experiences, life-long memories, and lots of fun. I’ll be bringing you a few more weeks of posts from Europe starting in mid-September, as I get back in the tour-guiding saddle and lead the granddaddy of all our tours: our Best of Europe in 21 Days itinerary (Amsterdam-Germany-Italy-Swiss Alps-Paris). Don’t miss it! It’s been fun packing you along here on my blog and over on the Rick Steves Facebook page for these last 100 days. Thanks for being my partner as we “keep on travelin’.”

Video: The Aftermath of Siena’s Palio Horse Race

In these clips, you can see the euphoria erupting after the finish of the Palio horse race. When the winner crosses the finish line, 1/17th of Siena — the prevailing She-wolf (Lupa) neighborhood — goes berserk. Tears of joy flow, people embrace. The jubilation is over-the-top both for the winners, and for the many neighborhoods joyously celebrating their rival contrada’s defeat.

We zip out into the street to film the mobs coursing toward the cathedral (I’m protecting Simon as he attempts to hold the camera still). The happy “Lupa-Lupa-Lupa!” horde thunders through the streets and up toward the cathedral. We’ve plotted our course through back lanes to position ourselves at the cathedral. Our cameraman, Karel, is already camped out inside the cathedral to film the climax of the celebrations at the high altar. Once there, they pack the church, and the winning contrada receives the coveted Palio banner — champions…until the next race.

Carrying their new trophy and hoisting their jockey high, the She-wolf crowd tumbles out of the cathedral and into the street, where 16 neighborhoods will settle back into normalcy…and this jubilation will consume the She-wolf district until the wee hours — 500 years of tradition, still going strong.

The August 2016 race was actually historic: For the first time in over a century, the same contrada won both the July and the August races. That’s why you see two banners leaving the church in this photo:

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Seeing the euphoria overcome members of the winning contrada reminded me that it’s impossible for a tourist to really understand what this ritual race means to the people of Siena.

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This is Day 99 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Vienna, the Alps, the Low Countries, England, Siena, and beyond. Find more right here on my travel blog.

Video: At Siena’s Palio Horse Race, I Learn Where “Jockeying” Comes From

At the Palio, the entire city of Siena packs into the main square, Il Campo. Finally, it’s time for the race. A cart pulled by oxen carries the coveted Palio banner into the arena. At its sight, the crowd goes wild.  

As the starting places are announced, our guide Roberto is traumatized. It’s not going well. (Sometimes it seems that the Sienese care as much about their rivals losing as their own district winning.)

Ten snorting horses and their nervous riders line up to await the start. The jockeying includes a little last-minute negotiating…it’s complicated. (Watching the last-minute shuffling, I understand where the expression “jockeying” comes from.) Silence takes over. And then…

They race! Once the rope drops, there’s one basic rule: There are no rules. The jockeys race bareback like crazy while spectators go berserk. In Siena, life stops for these frantic three laps…just about 90 seconds. And the winner is…Lupa, the She-wolf district.

(Unfortunately, for legal reasons I can’t show the actual race here — but you can catch it on YouTube.)


This is Day 98 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Vienna, the Alps, the Low Countries, England, Siena, and beyond. Find more right here on my travel blog.

Il Palio Attracts Crowds to Siena

Being in Siena for the Palio horse race is really a series of mob scenes. These three photos capture the crush of the crowds. Imagine being in the middle of it all. Imagine catching it on your big TV camera. Imagine enjoying the race from the comfort of Franco’s apartment. I’ll never forget this perch. Grazie, Franco!

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This is Day 97 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Vienna, the Alps, the Low Countries, England, Siena, and beyond. Find more right here on my travel blog.