Destination: Ireland

I had an awkward experience the other night in Kinsale, on Ireland’s south coast. I just can’t shake it, and I would love to hear your thoughts. Did I do the right thing? What would you have done?

After blitzing the town to check out all its restaurants for my guidebook, I settled into my favorite (Finns’ Table) to enjoy a nice, peaceful meal. And for the entire dinner, all I could hear was the conversation of some American tourists at the table next to me: an angry, wealthy man and his resilient wife.

There was no way to avoid hearing him cuss and berate her as he complained about money, taxes, bad service, and the horrible Irish weather. Why was she getting a massage?…he got the wrong tee time at the golf course…their kids were ungrateful. When he had something mean to say, he’d lean forward and — as if his words were leather gloves — he’d slap her repeatedly across the face with them.

I worried that she (an older woman with a family, and presumably accustomed to a fancy lifestyle) really had no escape…and he knew it. I learned way more than I ever wanted to know about this man’s frustrations. I also couldn’t help but focus on how they were spending probably five times per day what my readers spend — staying at a golf resort, for example, rather than a characteristic B&B. And yet, he was miserable.

Finally, he asked a rhetorical question and I couldn’t help myself. I’ve never done this before, but I entered their conversation and answered it. And then I said, “Excuse me, but I’ve never shared a dinner with such a selfish and angry man. For the last half hour, I’ve had no choice but to learn the financial details of what must be, for you, a miserable existence. And I’ve never encountered a man who was ruder to his wife. If I was her, married to you, I’d walk right out of this restaurant and jump into the harbor.” That made waiting for my rhubarb crumble awkward. But I’m glad I said it. I hope it helped his wife in some way to hear that even a stranger was appalled by her husband’s disrespect.

Have you been unable to escape a mood-dampening conversation in a restaurant? What is the appropriate thing to do in a situation like this? Was I wrong to speak up?

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This is Day 81 of my “100 Days in Europe” series. As I travel with Rick Steves’ Europe Tours, research my guidebooks, and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences across Europe. Still to come: England, Scotland, Germany, Switzerland, and more. Thanks for joining me here on my blog and via Facebook.

Eating is a big part of any good travel experience, and I just wrapped up two weeks of good eating on a Best of Ireland tour.

Whenever I’m in the British Isles, my body jumps up and yelps for a good old-fashioned “fry.” This big fried breakfast (traditionally what a farm worker would eat to get him through a day in the fields until dinner) is jokingly referred to as a “heart attack on a plate” or a “plate of cardiac arrest.” I eat about two eggs a week at home. In the British Isles, it’s an egg a day.

I’ll enjoy this high-powered start to my day for a few more days…but I’ll be in fried-breakfast land for a total of thirty days this trip. Thankfully, these days it’s easy to find healthy alternatives.

Ireland is one of those places that surprises travelers with its fine cuisine. A good menu should have a few choices and feature local and seasonal ingredients. The restaurants we visit on our tours typically provide a three-course menu, and our guide is careful to explain any local specialties we should be aware of (in this case, the seafood chowder, pan-fried hake, and banoffee pie…all big hits).

Kinsale is one of Ireland’s gourmet capitals, and Jim Edwards is one of Kinsale’s leading restaurants. If you’re traveling on your own, this would be offered as an early bird special (three courses for about $38 if you order before 7 pm).

By the looks of the dishes we’ve been enjoying, there’s no shortage of seafood off the coast of the Emerald Isle…and the cake-like soda bread complements it wonderfully. A plate like this makes a fine quick lunch. (We do our best to minimize chain restaurants and French fries on Rick Steves’ Europe Tours.)

This is Day 80 of my “100 Days in Europe” series. As I travel with Rick Steves’ Europe Tours, research my guidebooks, and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences across Europe. Still to come: England, Scotland, Germany, Switzerland, and more. Thanks for joining me here on my blog and via Facebook.

At age 62, I’ve been traveling in Europe as a teacher for 40 years. That’s long enough to see some of my very favorite people slowing down and retiring. Don Herlihy is dear to my tour-guiding heart — and one of the most inspirational guides anywhere in Europe. He’s one of those guides who, with the power and love of his own personality as a local teacher, can make a good town into a great stop. For several decades, Don has shared stories and memories about Kinsale with my Ireland guidebook readers and tour members. Now he’s slowing down and has apprenticed Barry Moloney.

While our Rick Steves’ Europe Tours guide Declan Field could have done a fine job taking our group on a historic Kinsale walk, there’s something special about having a local guide walk you through his or her home town. Our Kinsale walk with Barry was one of the best hours in our two-week Ireland tour.

While seeing my old favorites hang it up saddens me, I’m always encouraged by the vigor, creativity, and freshness the next generation brings. Don’s legacy is in very good hands with Barry.

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This is Day 79 of my “100 Days in Europe” series. As I travel with Rick Steves’ Europe Tours, research my guidebooks, and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences across Europe. Still to come: England, Scotland, Germany, Switzerland, and more. Thanks for joining me here on my blog and via Facebook.