Daily Dose of Europe: Dürer’s Self-Portrait

Italian Renaissance artists get all of the attention. But don’t miss the huge talents of the Northern Renaissance — especially Albrecht Dürer.

The coronavirus can derail our travel plans…but it can’t stop our travel dreams. And I believe a daily dose of travel dreaming can actually be good medicine. One of the great joys of travel is seeing art masterpieces in person. And I’m currently featuring 10 of my favorites — including this one.

Albrecht Dürer was the first artist to paint a self-portrait. Here he stares out intensely — you can’t avoid his gaze. He’s decked out in a fancy fur-lined coat and perfectly permed hair. Dürer had recently returned from Italy and wanted to impress his fellow Germans with his sophistication. Dürer wasn’t simply vain. He’d grown accustomed, as an artist in Renaissance Italy, to being treated like a prince.

Dürer marks this snapshot with an exact place and time. To the left of his face is the year — “1500.” To the right is a Latin inscription saying “I, Albrecht Dürer from Nürnberg, painted myself with indelible colors at XXVIII years” (age 28).

Though still a young man, Dürer was now the most famous artist in Europe. His woodcut prints and engravings had been shared with thousands, thanks to the newly invented mass medium of the printing press. This painting has an engraver’s attention to detail. The hair is intricately braided into cascading ringlets. The skin texture is shaded just right. His well-cropped beard and finely curved lips are those of a handsome man. In the fur collar, you can see every individual hair. Dürer’s eyes radiate intelligence. It’s a very personal portrait of a real flesh-and-blood human being.

Portraits of real people were just coming into their own. During medieval times, only Christ and the saints were worth painting. Oh, a few kings and dukes got portraits, but these were usually photoshopped to show them in the best light. Artists never painted themselves. They were low on the societal totem pole, anonymous, considered blue-collar craftsmen who worked with messy paints.

But Dürer had visited Renaissance Italy, where he saw a revolution underway. Ordinary citizens were now deemed worthy to be depicted in all their everyday glory, warts and all. And artists — like Botticelli, Michelangelo, and Titian — were rock stars.

Dürer returned to Germany and created Europe’s first true selfies. This is a life-size, stand-alone portrait of himself, as rich and monumental and serious as any saint or king. In fact, look closely at Dürer’s intense, full-frontal gaze and raised hand. He looks exactly like a Christ from a medieval altarpiece, raising his hand in solemn blessing. This was the ultimate humanist statement. It focused on a man, not a saint, portraying him almost like Christ on earth — the artist as an instrument of God, carrying on his creation.

After Dürer, self-portraits became a thing. Raphael photobombed his own masterpiece, The School of Athens. Michelangelo painted his twisted self-portrait in The Last Judgment. Rembrandt’s self-portraits show the artist’s evolution — from unsure young man, to confident careerist, to brooding old man. Van Gogh added even more psychological intensity, and Picasso gave a backstage peek at his work process. Each artist’s self-portrait shows his emotional state, a glimpse at how beauty is born.

But ultimately, Dürer’s self-portrait is not a statement or a symbol, but just what it appears to be — a photorealistic snapshot of a very remarkable man. To hammer home his personal imprint, the artist signed the work with his distinct signature — a letter A arching over a D: Albrecht Dürer.

This art moment — a sampling of what we try to incorporate in our tours — is an excerpt from the full-color coffee-table book Europe’s Top 100 Masterpieces by Rick Steves and Gene Openshaw. Please support local businesses in your community by picking up a copy from your favorite bookstore, or you can find it at my online Travel Store. To enhance your art experience, you can find a clip related to this artwork at Rick Steves Classroom Europe; just search for Durer.

Video: Peaceful European Winter Scenes

To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas.

As you watch this clip of choirs performing in Oslo and in Nürnberg, enjoy scenes of winter in Europe. While fields and squares are filled with color and vibrancy in the summer, the naked branches, solitary candles flickering in windows, and lonely vistas of winter offer a peaceful charm with the promise of life and renewal just around the corner.

The timeless beauty of physically coming together in great churches to make music in the dead of winter is such an integral part of celebrating the holidays. Watching this, I vow to enjoy making some music with friends in my community this Christmas, too. How about you?

Video: Celebrating Christmas with Bavaria’s Christkind

To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas.

Germany’s grandest Christmas market, in Nürnberg, comes complete with an angelic Christkind dressed in gold, played by a real-life teenage girl. After we filmed her show before an awestruck crowd of German kids, we were invited to a private audience with her. We felt like paparazzi trailing some teenage heartthrob.

In this clip of the interview, we learn how Martin Luther, the local reformer, wanted to shift the focus from St. Nicholas back to the Christ child. But as Germans had a hard time getting their mind around baby Jesus giving gifts, the Christmas gift-giver gradually morphed into a sweet girl.

Video: Christmas in Germany

To celebrate the season, I’m sharing clips, extras, and behind-the-scenes notes from Rick Steves’ European Christmas.

When it comes to traditional holiday images, Germany’s Bavaria is the heartland. In this clip, we savor classic holiday themes: glittering trees, old-time carols, and colorful Christmas markets.

Even though I was determined to limit the shopping focus in the show, I couldn’t help but be impressed by Germany’s grandest Christmas market in Nürnberg. Like the region’s children, we were mesmerized with Nürnberg’s quirky, gift-giving Christmas angel, called the Christkind. In an auditorium with several hundred lovingly wonderstruck grade-schoolers, the Christkind held court. Filming the children mob her after she said, “If you’re very, very gentle, you can touch my wings,” was great TV. (Tomorrow, I’ll share a rare interview with this German Christmas angel.)

 

Video: Learning History’s Lessons at Zeppelin Field

Fascism is in the news these days: White-supremacist groups are waving their flags, blustery strong men with a disregard for the norms of democratic governing are using the same playbook that worked for dictators a century ago, and Europeans who thought a repeat was not possible are now looking with a wary eye at countries sliding to the extreme right. (Of course, we’re not talking Holocaust-type fascism, but an ideological cousin — built on fear and promises — that can lead a society astray.)

We’re in Nürnberg, filming an hour-long doc on fascism that will air next September on public television. We need to take advantage of the buildings and artifacts that survive from the Reich (“empire”), which Hitler boasted would last a thousand years (which lasted from 1933 to 1945). Much was destroyed by WWII bombs, but Zeppelin Field, where Hitler held his enormous rallies, remains. In this clip, we visit the rally ground’s Golden Hall — the best surviving Hitler interior I’ve seen.