Eating My Way Through Paris

I can return to Paris again and again for the rest of my life. Just being there–with no intention of seeing anything new–is a fine vacation opportunity. With our tour over, I enjoyed a personal day before heading for Amsterdam and the Netherlands to scout for my upcoming TV shoot. The plan: Take my own audio tours and eat very well.

rick-steves-audio-tour-ste-chapelleWe’ve produced about 45 self-guided audio tours (all free with my Rick Steves’ Audio Europe Travel App), and every chance I get, I try to actually take them. When I follow along, I can see if they work well. And (this may sound a bit weird) but I also take them because they cover my favorite places–and I simply enjoy hearing myself talking about them. It’s fun to be immersed in a tour of a place like Paris’ Gothic lantern of stained glass, Sainte-Chapelle–and drift by another traveler enjoying the same audio tour. So far, the only one that doesn’t work well is Florence’s Uffizi Gallery (because they rearranged much of the featured art).

 

paris-by-mouth-food-tourAs has been my theme in the last year or two of guidebook research, I am finding new experiences to complement the great sights. Food tours are trendy across Europe, and I’m taking lots of them. Food tours generally take three to four hours and cost around $100. Some are worthwhile, and many are not. In Paris, we joined a Paris by Mouth food tour: six stops in three hours for €95. Our guide was an expert, expat foodie, and I gained a fun new appreciation of baguettes, croissants, cheese, and the way French people make the most out of eating. (For much more on this food tour–if you don’t mind a little food porn–see Trish Feaster’s blog at The Travelphile.com.)

rick-steves-violon-ingres-paris

After 50 days of steady work (OK–steady fun, too), I treated myself to a Michelin-star restaurant. We don’t list many destination restaurants in our guidebooks, but people come to Paris to eat well, and you’ll certainly do that at Le Violon d’Ingres.

violon-ingres-truffle-egg

At Le Violon d’Ingres, the dishes are extremely creative and, while excellent, I’m glad I opted for a sampler menu which gave me twice as many plates (with half-sized portions) as a regular menu. The Degustation Menu cost €95 for eight small plates served delicately and beautifully presented. I added on the matching wine. If you’re planning on binging for an extravagant meal in France, you’ll get the best value in smaller towns in the countryside. But for me, my fine Parisian dinner at Le Violon d’Ingres was a splurge I’ll never forget.

rick-steves-chef-christian-constant

As we list his restaurant in our book, renowned chef Christian Constant dropped by to see us. There’s a family tree-type photo wall of all the chefs who’ve trained with Monsieur Constant. After our meal, I was not surprised that his kitchen has spawned so many highly regarded and successful chefs.

Cathedrals, Palaces, Towers: A Full Day in Paris

joe-tour-bus-rick-stevesJoe–as he’s done well over a hundred times before with our groups–drove masterfully from Amsterdam to Rome and up to Paris and was adored by all. After getting us to Paris, Joe had a five-hour drive back to his home in Belgium, where he enjoys a few days off before meeting his next Rick Steves tour group. I’m thankful that our bus drivers are a part of our traveling family. (Several times on this tour after a long drive, we’d walk across town for our group dinner. And, when we’d arrive at the restaurant, Joe would already be there…enjoying a nice glass of wine while awaiting our arrival. On other companies’ European tours, the last thing a driver would do is join his group for dinner during his time off. Not so with our drivers.) It’s always emotional for our groups when we unload for our last time and bid our driver farewell. Ciao, Joe!

rick-steves-builds-human-cathedralIn Europe, most commercial tour guides are called “tour managers.” They don’t really teach–they run the tour. They hire local guides that come and go in various cities to do the teaching. On a Rick Steves tour, the guide is more than a tour manager. He or she is also a teacher, and we do what we can to lace together and curate all the information we pick up from our many local contacts. We work to give the lessons context and more meaning…to make the art and history graspable. One of my great tour-guiding joys is introducing a group to its first Gothic cathedral by “building” one out of our tour members before entering. At Paris’ Notre-Dame, our guide Reid–knowing how much I always enjoyed this teaching stunt–asked me if I wanted to build a Gothic cathedral with our group. I jumped at the opportunity. Here you see me lining up our columns and making sure the buttresses are flying in with their support before erecting the spire.

human-spireStanding in the shadow of Paris’ Notre-Dame, our group built a Gothic cathedral with 13 tourists. With buttresses in place, columns strong, and ribs coming together at pointed arches in good Gothic style, we had created the skeletal structure of a Gothic cathedral. Little Brogan then hoisted himself high above it all, crowning our structure with a spire.

louvre-main-hallEurope’s biggest palace, the Louvre, contains its greatest collection of paintings. It just makes sense: You have a revolution, cut off the king’s head, take his amazing collection of art, hang it in his palace, and open it to the people. That’s exactly what happened and, since the 1790s, the unwashed masses have enjoyed a royal collection of paintings.

louvre-grand-galleryIn its day the Louvre was the biggest building in the world. The Grand Gallery is about a quarter mile long…lined with amazing art.

pickpocket-sign-in-louvreEven with warning signs flanking the Mona Lisa, pickpockets earn a fine living jostling with the masses as everyone ogles in front of Leonardo’s smirking masterpiece.

rick-steves-tour-group-eiffel-towerOn our tours, each guide works hard to create a beautiful-and-memorable last evening together. Here in Paris, we stroll from our dinner restaurant to the Champ de Mars for a memorable send-off in front of the icon of European travel, the Eiffel Tower.

rick-steves-tour-jump-eiffel-towerSometimes, when you’ve shared a great European tour, you’ve just got to cap it with a joyful “jumpie.” Happy travels!

Métro Lesson

Paris is the finale of our Best of Europe in 21 Days tour. And our first order of business (after checking in at the hotel) is getting our group comfortable with perhaps the world’s greatest subway system, Le Métro. This little video clip, taken as we were passing a group of Russian troubadours, captures the energy of being underground with the Parisians.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

A Rick Steves-Style Paris Video Through the Eyes of Teenagers

A big part of the fun in my work is inspiring others to share their love of travel. I get lots of digital scrapbooks, amateur videos, and self-published travel books to review, and last week I received one I think you might enjoy. Sahal Farah, a 19-year-old college student living in Los Angeles, grew up watching my TV show with his family. Here’s what he wrote:

Dear Mr. Steves, My family and I have been massive fans of your show since we were old enough to watch television. My little brother Leeban, age 15, was asked by his French teacher to make a short and simple travel video when she heard that we would be going to Paris over the summer of 2012. We travel a lot as a family (especially Europe) and after watching your show for all these years we were actually excited to make it! After countless hours to get it just right, we finally got it done and the teacher was completely bewildered with how intricate and professional it was. She’s now showing it to her students for every new year. Anyway, my mom said that since the video we made was inspired by your show that we should send it to you. I’d love to hear what you think about it! If you enjoy it, I’d love it if you could give us a shout out on Facebook or Twitter! Thank you so much Rick and keep on traveling! -Sahal Farah

Here’s what I wrote back:

Dear Sahal and Leeban, You guys are great. Thanks for letting us enjoy a little bit of Paris through your young and insightful eyes. Best wishes and happy future travels (and video production, I hope)! -Rick

Here’s the video. Enjoy!

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

Top Ten Things to Do in Paris at Christmas

You probably won’t be able to jet over to Paris for Christmas. But if you could, here are ten fun things to do (excerpted from the Rick Steves’ European Christmas book). Read these and imagine a Joyeux Noël in the City of Light:

Manèges de Noël: Christmas Carousels  These seasonal merry-go-rounds pop up in every neighborhood in Paris. The biggies are at Hôtel de Ville and the Eiffel Tower, but more fun are the charming manèges in less touristy neighborhoods.
Manèges de Noël: Christmas Carousels
These seasonal merry-go-rounds pop up in every neighborhood in Paris. The biggies are at Hôtel de Ville and the Eiffel Tower, but more fun are the charming manèges in less touristy neighborhoods.
Lick a Window The French phrase for "window shopping" is lèche-vitrine — literally, “window licking.” Big department stores compete with one another for the most fabulous window displays of animation and whimsy. French parents dress up their kids and come from all over the country to compare the windows of the three great Parisian department stores: Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, and Bon Marché. Thoughtfully, the stores provide wooden steps at the windows so that even the tiniest tot can get a good view.
Lick a Window
The French phrase for “window shopping” is lèche-vitrine — literally, “window licking.” Big department stores compete with one another for the most fabulous window displays of animation and whimsy. French parents dress up their kids and come from all over the country to compare the windows of the three great Parisian department stores: Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, and Bon Marché. Thoughtfully, the stores provide wooden steps at the windows so that even the tiniest tot can get a good view.
Slurp an Oyster in the Marais To eat an oyster in public: Make sure to cut under the oyster so that it is completely separated from the shell. Then tip the shell toward your mouth, causing the oyster to slide forward and down into your mouth — but whatever you do, don’t let any stray oyster juice run down your chin. Slurp!
Slurp an Oyster in the Marais
To eat an oyster in public: Make sure to cut under the oyster so that it is completely separated from the shell. Then tip the shell toward your mouth, causing the oyster to slide forward and down into your mouth — but whatever you do, don’t let any stray oyster juice run down your chin. Slurp!
Pony Rides Take the little people to Luxembourg Garden to ride the ponies or (sometimes at Christmas) donkeys. If you’re lucky enough to be there when the donkeys are, tell the kids about pregnant Mary and Joseph riding the donkey to Bethlehem.
Pony Rides
Take the little people to Luxembourg Garden to ride the ponies or (sometimes at Christmas) donkeys. If you’re lucky enough to be there when the donkeys are, tell the kids about pregnant Mary and Joseph riding the donkey to Bethlehem.
Chocolate Shopping Buy your best friend a box of chocolates from one of  La Maison du Chocolat boutiques, run by Robert Linxe, the high priest of Paris chocolate. Specialties include jewel-like bonbons with lemon, mint, and ginger-infused fillings. The lines go out the door at Christmastime, so allow plenty of time for your visit. La Maison du Chocolat has seven boutiques in Paris.
Chocolate Shopping
Buy your best friend a box of chocolates from one of La Maison du Chocolat boutiques, run by Robert Linxe, the high priest of Paris chocolate. Specialties include jewel-like bonbons with lemon, mint, and ginger-infused fillings. The lines go out the door at Christmastime, so allow plenty of time for your visit. La Maison du Chocolat has seven boutiques in Paris.
Avante-Garde Trees Visit the annual exhibition of Christmas trees created by top couturiers and designers at the Centre Pompidou. The “trees” don’t look much like your standard evergreen; they’re Christmas concoctions with something vaguely tree-like about them. Creations are by turns wickedly funny, seductive, political, lovely, and just plain weird. It’s a fun exhibit, and your entrance fee goes to a French charity that assists orphaned children.
Avante-Garde Trees
Visit the annual exhibition of Christmas trees created by top couturiers and designers at the Centre Pompidou. The “trees” don’t look much like your standard evergreen; they’re Christmas concoctions with something vaguely tree-like about them. Creations are by turns wickedly funny, seductive, political, lovely, and just plain weird. It’s a fun exhibit, and your entrance fee goes to a French charity that assists orphaned children.
The Champs-Elysées and the Eiffel Tower Bundle up, wander over to the Champs-Elysées, and walk the length of the boulevard, with its fairy forest of twinkling trees. Time it so that you can walk (or take the Métro) over to Trocadéro square in time to see the lights on the Eiffel Tower shimmer — on the hour for five minutes every night until midnight.
The Champs-Elysées and the Eiffel Tower
Bundle up, wander over to the Champs-Elysées, and walk the length of the boulevard, with its fairy forest of twinkling trees. Time it so that you can walk (or take the Métro) over to Trocadéro square in time to see the lights on the Eiffel Tower shimmer — on the hour for five minutes every night until midnight.
Pastries, Pastries, Pastries Indulge yourself with a bûche de Noël (yule log) from the oldest pâtisserie in Paris. One day in 1730, Queen Marie Leszczyńska, daughter of the king of Poland, stopped in Strasbourg on her way to Versailles to marry Louis XV and met a pastry chef named Störher. She fell in love — not with the chef, but with his famous puits d’amour (“wells of love,” chocolate cups filled with a rich, creamy custard). The Queen offered him a job, and Störher packed up, opened up a pâtisserie in Paris, and became famous. Even the Queen of England couldn’t resist a stop at Ströher’s on her last trip to Paris. (It’s at 51 rue Montorgueil.)
Pastries, Pastries, Pastries
Indulge yourself with a bûche de Noël (yule log) from the oldest pâtisserie in Paris. One day in 1730, Queen Marie Leszczyńska, daughter of the king of Poland, stopped in Strasbourg on her way to Versailles to marry Louis XV and met a pastry chef named Störher. She fell in love — not with the chef, but with his famous puits d’amour (“wells of love,” chocolate cups filled with a rich, creamy custard). The Queen offered him a job, and Störher packed up, opened up a pâtisserie in Paris, and became famous. Even the Queen of England couldn’t resist a stop at Ströher’s on her last trip to Paris. (It’s at 51 rue Montorgueil.)
The City of Light’s Lights  Walk up and down the Boulevard Haussmann admiring the fabulous lights at Printemps and Galeries Lafayette. Try to guess how many bulbs it took to create Galeries Lafayette’s illuminated canvas. (Hint: Last year, it was 150,000.)
The City of Light’s Lights
Walk up and down the Boulevard Haussmann admiring the fabulous lights at Printemps and Galeries Lafayette. Try to guess how many bulbs it took to create Galeries Lafayette’s illuminated canvas. (Hint: Last year, it was 150,000.)
Ice Skating at 200 Feet Put on something chic and cozy. Then ride the elevator to the first level of the Eiffel Tower to glide on Paris’ highest ice-skating rink and gaze at the city’s domes, towers, and rooftops — the City of Light illuminated for the holiday season.
Ice Skating at 200 Feet
Put on something chic and cozy. Then ride the elevator to the first level of the Eiffel Tower to glide on Paris’ highest ice-skating rink and gaze at the city’s domes, towers, and rooftops — the City of Light illuminated for the holiday season.