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It’s 1:00 in the morning. I’m in Venice and I’m a bit drunk. I feel like talking, but since there’s no one here but me in this room, I’ll blog. Yesterday I was in London. Today I researched the Venetian Lagoon (Murano and Burano) and spent the evening updating a dozen or so of my guidebook’s restaurant listings. In London, I spend my evenings visiting restaurants, then grab a sandwich and go home. In Venice, I spend my evenings visiting restaurants, then return to my favorite for a 10 p.m. dinner. This dining derby is my nightly ritual in Italy. When Pino, who runs the Antica Sacrestia, asked me how I like my wine, I said, “Complicato” — and he served up his house Amarone. I drank it like a monkey climbs a tree. Just when the branches were getting pretty bendy, he capped the meal with a glass of Sgroppino (a local cocktail specialty of squeezed lemon juice, lemon gelato, and vodka). “Sgroppino” comes from the Italian word for “to clean” (as in your palate).
One of my favorite Venetian guides (Michael from Venicescapes) spent the evening with me visiting eateries in two neighborhoods. We found a few to add to my book, and cut out far more. I’ve been cutting lots of places lately, determined to find truly unique eateries for my guidebook. Michael asked me what the standard was. I acknowledged it was a bit arbitrary but, beyond the obvious location and value concerns, I want a place that’s personality-driven, with a staff that will likely be there year after year. The place should have roots in the neighborhood, respect the local cuisine, and be accessible to travelers.
We spent most of the dinner talking about Venetian connections with the Reformation. More than “saved by grace” alone, there was plenty of economics and politics. (According to Michael, before the Reformation, the Vatican States had the lowest tax rates in Europe. After the Reformation — as German tithers could no longer be counted on to subsidize the Papal States — the Pope’s domain became the most highly taxed part of Europe.) It’s the theme of one of his new tours.
Finally, a couple from Austin sitting a few tables away came by to say hello. It turns out they are staying at Hotel Campiello — the place I wanted to stay, but (in part, due to them) was booked out this week. They shared their experience with my guidebook and explained how they were fascinated by our conversation. The result: Michael just got a job. He’ll meet them at 8:45 tomorrow morning at their hotel for a $275, six-hour historic Venice walk.
When you know where to look, there’s so much to see in Venice. An inverted corner of a beautiful church had an ugly iron fence cutting across it. Why? So people won’t pee there. In Gothic times, the architect couldn’t have imagined someone would urinate against the corner of his church. But this is a different age. Later we were walking on an unusually wide street. Oh…a filled-in canal.
Earlier today, on the island of Burano (famous for humble fishermen’s homes and squinting lace-makers), I noticed how the pastel colors of the homes are getting more and more vibrant. The place is just darling (an adjective I’ve never used to describe a town before).
In Burano, the rising sea forced the raising of the canal-side pavement. I could see a strip of fresh bricks above the water line. Some houses had a new step added from the sidewalk down to their door, while others just had a shorter door. Houses that could be made higher just got their ground floors raised — leaving them with shorter ceilings. Those that couldn’t were more susceptible to floods and stayed just as high, but now had a step down. St. Mark’s Square is about to have its pavement raised for the third time in history.
Last night, I flew out of Heathrow Airport. At dinner tonight, I learned Heathrow is closed today with the eruption in Iceland. Travel is like that. I’m giddy here in Venice.
After a sunny week in London, I landed last night here in a thunderstorm. Riding the boat from the airport through the dark lagoon into Venice, I hurriedly typed up the last of my London notes. Stepping ashore at Fondamenta Nuove, I noticed everything seemed particularly vivid in this beautifully decrepit cityscape: Pilings rotten at the waterline. Funeral boats with the iron casket rack on wheels lashed to the center of the hull. Chandeliers lighting top-floor ceiling frescoes of private mansions that would go unseen during the sunlit day. The white marble inlay that made the edge of the stairs over the bridges pop.
Once in my hotel room, my bare feet were greeted by the speckled “Venetian pavement” — that characteristic floor made of a broken hodgepodge of marble fragments, then polished. While some might mistake it for cheap linoleum, it’s far from that — it’s treasured here, and quite expensive. It flexes with the settling of the buildings…so costly to maintain, but so characteristic. My feet connected with the flooring in a way my feet have never before connected with flooring…happily grounding me with Venice.
Hey Rick, love reading your blog from time to time, saw you kinda drunk as well a few times. Its funny, everytime I enter my best local eating places in Rome, I think to myself, I hope Rick doesnt discover this one. I brought Andy to one once but warned him not to tell you, its the only problem we have. Rick finds the real Italian experience, they want him to recommend them, he does and then the “locals” flee. Buts thats ok we all need someone to guide us anyhow. There is a place near the Vatican, I love the food but I just tip them because of the entertainment level. I use your hotel recommendations when I am in Venice by the way and have never been let down.
Great blog! Love it!
thanks for the fun blog and tips – Im looking forward to joining in the fun in Venice in a week myself! Tom in Newport Beach CA
I am wrestling about whether or not to travel alone to Europe from August to December. I am going to be laid off, I’ve heard, and I have nothing to lose…so my thought is why not! I have enough savings to cover it on the cheaper end at least. When I came across this tonight it just really inspired me because I can just imagine myself there in Veince as well (a bit drunk sounds fun too), but just the idea that I CAN do this on my own. And that the idea is not compeltely crazy :). Thanks, Rick, man for your inspiration, and I will be looking forward to hearing more!
Love your blog and your shows.. I go to Italy all the time just by watching your show..Thank you
Ron in LA. — DO IT. Someone once said life is a 1 shot deal not a dress rehearsal….I have been to Venice and enjoyed it. You might try Pensione Guerrato one night and then move onto fancier digs. Venice is a great back alley town with all kinds of local places 2-3 blocks off the beaten path. I got so drunk there off of that local vino and had a blast.
Hi Rick, love the blog. We spent 3 nights in Venice this past September staying at Hotel Campiello. Loved the location but the Campiello turned out to be our least favorite of the trip. The receptionist for the first two days was “uninterested” in everything. The man at the front desk on the morning we left was 100% better. Hopefully the first gentleman was just filling in. We also thought the room was just ok. I didn’t want this just to be a hotel review. We loved Venice and used your guide for just about all our information. Thanks, for all the good times.
I have never had luck with your Restaurant recommendations, either can’t find the place or not what it says. The Ireland book (going soon if the volcano doesn’t stop us) looks easier, not so many choices. But Italy France was hard places to find. We love to just pick one by how they look. I know your job can’t be easy, but I sure would like to try it!!!
Ron – definitely go for it. If I (60+ female) can travel solo in Asia and ME as well as Europe, you can for sure go solo in Europe. Treat this is as an opportunity! Read Rick’s “Europe Through the Back Door”, and Lonely Planet’s “Read This First Europe”. Look into couchsurfing.com and crashpadder.com (“couchsurfing for grown-ups”) for free/cheap sleeps.
He is about to be laid off and he will cut loose with a 4 month trip to Europe because he has enough savings to do it on the cheap I don’t know whether to laugh or cry but I’ll do neither because he is not my responsibility and obviously he has none that might impact his decision. But grasshoppers are happy go lucky and don’t save for winter while the industrious ant stores up some food, just in case. Maybe a ONE month trip to Europe would get you most of what you think you need while reserving something just in case an earthquake in LA wipes out your possessions or the possessions of those you might be counting on for a last ditch safety net. I went thru 3 hugely damaging earthquakes in Calif. so they are not so far fetched. Italy is pretty shaky too. Best for a happy outcome no matter what you decide as far as travel.
Sometimes luck is on your side, Rick. Glad you made it to Venice before everything shut down. Ron, do you really think you would ever regret going? I don’t think so. The only things I regret are the things I didn’t do.
Rick often mentions alcohol, marijuana, and sleeping pills.
Thanks Rick for this blog. I feel as if I am right there in Venice. Please know that when you share even the tiniest details with all of us, it becomes a part of our life and our day. Awesome! I am living vicariously through you today. And, you know, that your observation of the details actually reminds me to be more aware of my surroundings, even if it’s a “mundane” day at work. Thanks!
Watched the film Summertime recently. Couple scenes film on Burano. Granted this film was made 10 years after the WWII but the exterior colors of the Burano buildings weren’t nearly as vibrant as what is seen in photographs today. Hope to see the real thing in two weeks. Thanks for Venice blog today.
Hey, bill, Rick never mentions alcohol, marijuana, and sleeping pills at the same time. Venice is magical without any of those.
Dear Rick: Unlike fellow PBS travel show host Rudy Maxa, I realize that you do not embrace staying in luxury-class hotels. However, since your blog topic was Venice, I feel compelled to share our lodging experience there because I would venture that there is a sub-population of ETBD devotees who, like us, travel with your guide books and watch your t.v. shows faithfully, but would like the option of staying in 4- or 5-star hotels while dining at some finer establishments. I am not suggesting an alteraion of your company’s tour itineraries; I am writing as an independent traveler who uses your excellent guide books to get around Europe but who differs on the ETBD philosophy when it comes to food and lodging. Thus, for those with the means or are traveling on ‘other people’s money’ (e.g., attending a conference/doing business in Venice and are on an expense account), the San Clemente Palace Hotel (SCPH), located on the San Clemente island in the Venice lagoon, was absolutely outstanding. The hotel restaurant was also the best one that we ate at during a 5-day stay in Venice several years ago (and we did eat at a number of ‘nice’ restaurants in the city). In fact, the SCPH’s restaurant was among the best – if not the best – that we have ever dined in during almost 20 years of European travel. The hotel was very elegant and spacious, the rooms were extremely comfortable, and the small island was very peaceful and quiet – a very nice contrast from the daily ‘Disney World atmosphere’ of Venice. In fact, our family considered the hotel experience to be the best part of our Venetian trip. Although we appreciated the history, art, and ambiance of Venice, we did not enjoy it as much as Florence or Rome. The large crowds confined to the very narrow streets was a major a turn-off. Since you are currently in Venice, hop on the SCPH boat, take a look around the hotel and the small island, and eat a meal there. It’s expensive, but you will get what you pay for.
Hello, Rick. I am a writer and I live in Venice. Someone who reads my blog posted a link to your blog, so I am now posting a link to mine, Venetian Cat – The Venice Blog. http://venetiancat.blogspot.com Have fun with the Amarone, my favorite. Cat Bauer
Ron: Go for it! I spent 2 months in Europe during my last summer in college, and it was a life-changing experience. Not only did I see an incredible variety of European cities, historical sites, etc., it opened my mind in a way that nothing else has since then. Also, it gave me a great overview of the continent, and ideas for further in-depth travel later. This fall my husband and I will be visiting Provence (and at a more relaxed pace than I did all those years ago!). Vive la difference!
Hey Ron in L.A.! Do it! I did several years ago when I was laid off in the early 90’s. I had enough severance pay to cover my trip and more AND when I returned I was totally relaxed and ready to hit the job hunt again. (I found a job just the next month.) I traveled solo to London and did several side trips as well. I met several interesting people from many different countries and had the opportunity to see those sites that I had only heard about… Now, I go to Europe as often as possible…now, if the volcano will just STOP!!
@Ron – listen to everyone and go for it. I agree with Rob that sometimes I find Rick’s lodging and/or restaurant recommendations a little lacking. I do like places with character/personality, but comfort and taste are just as important to the overall ex
Hi Rick, I am a great fan of yours and love to read your entries on Facebook.
One of my lifes dreams was to see Venice and I am happy to say my dream will come true and I will be in Venice for the 3rd and 4th of August. After reading your barefoot blog I am beside myself with excitement about Venice.
I would love to walk Venice with your friend Michael. Can you help me connect with him? I will also be in Milan,Florence,Rome, Lake Como and and would love to share these cities too with any more friends you could recommend to me.
Note from Blog Editor: Michael runs a company called Venicescapes. Here is the listing from Rick’s Venice guidebook:
Venicescapes–Michael Broderick’s private theme tours of Venice are intellectually demanding and beyond the attention span of most mortal tourists. Rather than a “sightseeing tour,†consider your time with Michael a rolling, graduate-level lecture. Michael’s objective: to help visitors gain a more solid understanding of Venice. For a description of his various itineraries, see his website (book well in advance, tours last 4–6 hours: $275 for 2 people, $50/person after that, either pay in dollars or he’ll convert the price to euros, admissions and transportation are extra, tel. 041-520-6361, http://www.venicescapes.org, info@venicescapes.org).
I just came back from Italy. Your guidebook ‘Italy” helped a lot. Some places you recommended in the book were really good and some were disappointing.For example, ‘Villa Mercede’ in Orvieto,I was 120% satisfied after 2nts stay there. But one restautant in Rome’s Spanish steps area you really liked and one restaurant in Santa Maria Formosa, Venice was disappointing.
I’ll be arriving in Vienna the first week of June. My friends keep telling me that Venice is flooded and skip it, or take my tall rubber boots. Rick, your blog does mention Venetians keep raising the ground floors? Do I need to worry or just take my waterproof boots.:-)
Ron, go for it! I will add to the suggestions of how to stretch your travel dollar by mentioning, workawayers.info. this website matches travelers with hosts who need help with projects. in return for 4 hrs work per day, you receive free room and board. you negotiate directly with the hosts what they expect from you and what kind of accomodations they provide. I would think for a single traveler, it would be a great way to add some socializing to your travels in addition to stretching your travel dollar. happy travels!
For Maria, Don’t take you boots…if you need some, you can get cheap ones (plastic) there. I was in Venice for five days in the end of March and didn’t have flooding once. I was there for two weeks in October 2008…had flooding once but only a couple of hours. It’s not all day or for days at a time and there are sirens that tell you when it’s going to happen. To Ron in LA…Go For It!!! Thanks for going back to Venice Rick. Michelle