I’m in Kastelruth, in the Italian Tirol. My chalet–sturdy as a bomb shelter, yet warm and woody–comes with a generous fluffy down comforter and serious German plumbing: Ka-chunk…ahhhh.
High in the Dolomites, tourism is huge. But April is the limbo time between the skiers and the hikers. The lifts are still. Most hotels are closed. It’s a lousy time to be researching. I survey the town from my two-chair balcony. There are no tourists…just busy-as-a-beaver locals getting things ready for the coming rush. A man in blue overalls swings a pickax. Children run free in the guest house lounges and gardens — learning to rollerblade, playing rollicking games of foosball.
As I sat down to lunch today with four representatives from the tourist board, they asked me, “Do Americans know this region as Südtirol or the Dolomites?” I answered, “the Dolomites,” and complimented their town as the only one that didn’t feel like a ski resort in the summer. We were presented with plates of shaved cabbage sprinkled with bits of bacon. Ignoring the meat, Günter, the man across the table, said, sadly, “Kraut.”
I’ve been on the road nearly a month. I’ve had just two hours of rain. I’ve enjoyed meeting countless Americans. All seemed to be having a great time (except a woman who shut the car door on her coat and needed a cleaner, a man whose wife was forcing him to tour the Siena Pinacoteca, and a kid from Michigan State who just couldn’t accept the fact that “pepperoni” was green peppers and not spicy sausage).
And during this month I’ve had absolutely no news. When at home, I consume news as entertainment — probably an hour a day. And for 30 days now I have not seen a TV or newspaper. I read a brilliant rant from Lee Iacocca (Lee Iacocca Excerpt). And I heard about the massacre at Virginia Tech…but only because so many Europeans wonder why we let anyone — even nutcases — own a gun, yet do things like legally requiring bikers to wear helmets. My news-fast will continue. It feels somehow healthy.
Enjoying this little eddy in the whirlpool of Italy, I’m savoring a quiet evening in my room. Freshly showered and in bare feet, I “cook” dinner: my tiny post-9/11-sized Swiss Army knife, a champagne flute from my minibar, and a paper bag ripped open as my tableware. The menu tonight: rough, bakery-fresh German bread, salami, carrots, a tub of yogurt, and Apfelsaft (apple juice). Everything’s in two languages here: I believe there’s a dot of yogurt on the bridge of my nose — it’s both frutti di bosco and Waldfruchte… that’s “berries of the forest.” The fact that my feast cost less than €5 makes it taste even better.
I dig out my iPod. Music takes me home — dancing with memories of family, friends, things non-European. Then, I turn off the iPod and return to Europe. With a happy soundtrack of German-speaking Italian children playing just out of sight, I watch a slow show as darkness settles on the Dolomites. Slowly those rugged limestone peaks and gaily painted chalets become two-tone, then gone.
What a great flashback. Took the ’03 Italy tour (before it was sliced into two pieces) and remember the Dolomite experience very well. The farmers working to control snow runoff by re-sodding areas that were really steep, the wonderful pensione you had reserved for us. Those days are not forgotten; 4 couples still have “Italy dinners” every 3 months, dining on various ethnic dishes and enjoying the fellowhship of “Uncle Rick”.
Wayne
Like everyone, I am enjoying your posts. I eagerly check your RSS feed daily for the latest. I do have one question: just what, exactly is a “Post 9/11 sized Swiss Army Knife”!?! I accidentally carried a little 1 1/4″ Swiss Army pen knife attached to my keychain, and was forced to mail it home from the airport or have it confiscated by the kind TSA folks. What’s your Swiss Army Knife secret? I miss traveling without my picnic tool.
Thanks again for the travel blog. All of your many fans are following it and you daily.
Walt Conway
Rick,
Tell the Euros that we allow people to carry guns because our Constitution mandates it. Then ask the Jews and Armenians if they wish their people would have had guns back in the 1930s and 1910s, respectively.
Stick to what you do best — provide travel advice. Keep quiet about politics. Your anti-American rants turn many people off from allowing you to reap the benefits of American captialism.
Rick, one of these days you should do a show on Graz, Austria! We’ve been here for five days and had a blast. The town is way historic with lots of old buildings (pedestrian-free in downtown), an outdoor cultural museum, a castle on a small mountain in the middle of downtown, Schloss Eggenberg on the west side of town (art, state rooms, gardens, coin collection) and Mariatrost basilica on the east side — they happen to be on the same tram line.
The Styrians love their pumpkin seed oil. Wine soup is another local specialty.
Hi Rick,
Please don’t listen to Bob Smith or others like him. They represent Americans who think being patriotic involves keeping your opinion to yourself, even on one’s own website.
You have single-handedly revolutionized the way the world travels smarter in the new millenium.(Pack light, go local)
Your opinion on both American and world political policy is extremely germaine and very valuable, indeed.
Keep up the great work and keep on speaking your mind. Thanks.
Someone get Bob Smith to Europe, Quick!
Fred in Atlanta
Hmmm. I doubt that being allowed to carry “Saturday Night Specials” would have saved the Jews from the Nazis. Having guns (and an army!) didn’t even save the Poles, French, Czechs, etc. And I thought the Armenians DID have guns. Oh well. Besides, gun control is not about totally banning guns. It is about common sense things like requiring background checks that you are not crazy or criminal, requiring gun safety classes, and limiting the types of guns available. Does anybody really need a fully automatic machine gun in an urban area? Call me crazy. Also if you read the Second Amendment, it certainly doesn’t seem like its intent was to give carte blanche for any nut to own any and all firepower. What’s that reference to a “well regulated militia” about anyway? Again: call me crazy. If the Germans can revisit the issue of speed limits and other Europeans can start talking about smoking bans, would it kill us to think about some common sense limits on guns? I guess I AM indeed crazy.
Well, I don’t have strong opinions about guns–pro or anti–as long as a gun owner is a law abiding citizen, clears a criminal background check and follows safety. If I lived in a dangerous place, I certainly would learn how to use one. Every culture has their own take on weapons. Keep on rocking, Rick! You’re good here.
Now, for those lovely Dolomites–I’d love to visit them. They sound just beautiful.
Happy travels, Rick! Have a good day!
I love to read everthing you experience over there – if people ask you questions, let us know and tell us what they ask. Tell us what you say back. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion so keep telling us yours – we can decide for ourselves if we agree or not but it’s wonderful to know what the europeans think about us, what they wonder about us and how they preceive us. Keep up the great work – blogs, writing and tv shows. Thank you for the fun of travel.
I agree with the others – Rick keep up the chatter about travel and politics and keep telling us what Europeans are saying/thinking about what happens in the US. What is amazing is that they know so much more about what happens in our country and yet we know so little about what is happening in other countries. And one thought about gun control – when there is conflict and people are really angry with each other and fighting for whatever reason – I never want to hear someone say “You know what this situation needs – more guns!”
My gun list:
1. Gun dstribution should be tightly regulated.
2. Gun owners (new and existing) should be required to take a safety test and pass a background criminal/stability check periodically.
3. Especially after what happened at the school in Virginia.
Have a safe trip!
Hey, Steve: Are you sure the natives aren’t speaking Ladin, not German? When I was in the Dolomites I met a local doctor from Bolzano who told me that the people in the Sud Tirol speak Ladin which is the native language. He, along with many others, was fighting to have it continued to be taught in schools. He said it was an uphill battle but one that they all thought was important.
That area is one of my favorites, particularly Ortisei, and I will always treasure the wonderful memories created there. It is a most incredible place!!
If you read Rick’s post again, Bob Smith, you’ll notice that he was simply passing along the comments of Europeans, not his own. Don’t shoot the messenger, even if you feel it’s mandated.
Thanks, Rick, for letting us know what people of other cultures ask and think about us. It is impossible to exist successfully in a vacuum. I did take the time to read Lee Iacocca….veerrry interesting! I was wondering when you would break out a little from straight travel writing! And I enjoy both…keep airing your opinion…sometimes I agree and sometimes I disagree but it is always refreshing in our world of slick press soundbites!!
Rick,
One of the great things you do is create conversations with people who are likely much different than yourself. Creating diagogue and being able to LISTEN is a skill to be learned and has great rewards as you know. Keep being a great example to all of us.
You may also want to check out a great book that was just released by Jim Henderson called: “Jim and Casper Go to Church”. It’s an amazing conversation between a retired pastor and an atheist about the atheist’s views of church/christianity. amazing stuff. really.
Hi Rick,
It was so nice to run into you at the airport as we were heading for Spain with our four teen girls and you were off to Rome. Thanks for the graciousness you showed the girls. It was a fun trip!
Once again, your advice was great! The walking tour we had in Seville with Concepcion was wonderful. Her practical advise about maneuvering through the city as Holy Week began was priceless. Javier at the Hostal Acapulco in Madrid says hello!
Here is a recommendation for you to check out in Spain. A friend we made in Madrid took us to lunch at El Palacete Restaurante near the Alcazar in Toledo. The address is:
Calle Soledad, 2 -45001 Toledo, phone 925 22 53 75, http://www.restauranteelpalacete.com It is in a 1000 year old house with beautiful Moorish detailing. The proprietor is most gracious. We enjoyed a gourmet meal of several courses and a nice wine for @30 euros each. The girls tried venison, leg of lamb, pig, etc. A splurge but, DELICIOUS! I hope you go!
Ciao!
Rick,
Thanks for including the link to the Lee Iacocca book excerpt. Wouldn’t it be great to have people like this in our government?
As to what Europeans are saying about us, here’s what a German said to me in 2003: ‘We like Americans! It’s Bush who we don’t like!’
Everything the other Lisa said about you is true. You are truly amazing.
Also the book Lisa talked about,
I just read about it online. It does sound pretty neat. The
Pastor hires an Atheist to help him find faults in churches to become
a better pastor.
I’m going to get this book for sure.
You Rick, have such an open mind, that I also think you will like this book.
Thanks Lisa for bringing this up!!
oxox, Lisa P.
Been to Europe many times. Love it.
I somehow doubt Europeans say to Rick, how can you let people own guns but mandate bike helmets. That’s Rick’s pontification. But, whatever. My only point is that his politics are a turnoff to some who might otherwise enjoy his blog/books.
With respect to what the Euros think about us . . . frankly, I don’t really care. Much of their view is formed from an anti-American european media. To people like Carol who think the Euros know more about us than we about them . . . I suggest you’re wrong. They know very little about “Americans.” And if you don’t know about Europeans, well, that’s kinda your own fault.
I have been a big fan of Rick’s shows and travel books. He has provided a great service and tools for American, to travel in Europe the back door way. I may not agree with all his politics, but I respect what he believes and respect his agruements. I also know that alot of what Ricks says is information on how we as Americans are viewed in Europe. This information is very valueable, when you travel in Europe to reduced problems from having the wrong type of discussion ie. Gun control, Iraq war, etc–why ruin your vacation by bringing these topic up in europe.–His information was very helpful when I was in Northern Ireland (on Politics and relgion). Help me void some trouble
Rick, a question for you:
My wife and I will be taking our first trip to Northern Italy in July (I know .. it’ll be crowded, but she’s a teacher, bless her heart, and that’s when we can go). I noticed that you have a Nikon D40 with you this time, the same model I just purchased. I’ve been agonizing over whether I should take it, worried over the pickpockets. Do you think I’ll be safe with it packed away in a bag like your Civita backpack? I’m especially worried about the “packed-in” situations at train stations, on busses, etc.
We love your Italy book,
Karl
As a thirty year/twenty-five trip European traveler and a long time Rick customer and user of his travel advice I just checked in on this blog and was shocked to see so much discussion of Rick’s public policy statements as compared to his travel information and advice. Considering how divided, how sensitive and how opinionated Americans are right now there should be no shock at the reactions to the reactions on Rick’s statements. I hope travel information does not evolve to the TV broadcasting business where we will have “liberal” and “conservative” travel advise buisnesses. I say lets all work to keep domestic political debates out of travel books, videos, and blogs. More traveling and less politicing please.
Rick, please keep your political philosophy out of your travel reviews.
I won’t comment on my thoughts on Lee Iacocca’s book, but you can be assured it is entirely opposite from yours.
I greatly enjoy your travel advise, and have found it very useful when traveling in Europe, but please spare me from your liberal beliefs.
Thanks,
Your travel style has inspired my entire family for years and we head out on our next “Steves-style” trip to Germany for three weeks on May 14. I too would like to know what a “post 9/11 Swiss Army knife” would be. Not having a small pocket knife while traveling is a major inconvenience. I can’t live without my key-chain Swiss Army pen knife, but I can’t take it in my RS carry-on bag while traveling. I jokingly say, “Never trust a person who doesn’t care a small pocket knife with them at all times.” So what’s the story, Rick?
Be well.
When we travel, we may run into political views in other countries. I appreciate Rick’s comments on such in his blog. It’s part of the whole experience. Being open-minded makes for a more pleasant trip abroad. No grumps for me!
I don’t really know Rick Steves, but after meeting him at his travel fest, I do know politics mean a great deal to him and he cares.
Please don’t let the same thing happen to Rick like the Dixie Chicks had to go through. If you believe in his politics or not, he still is the best travel advisor and he really knows about art. You don’t find that on other travel TV shows.
I adore you Rick, and you keep being yourself!
Rick,
I enjoyed your report from Kastelruth immensely as Joan and I visited there in June 2005. It was our third night on a 18 day tour of Italy. Great memories of a very relaxing and peaceful village and as noted in your book,with a remarkable experience of being able to witness the German culture while in Italy…including the great food!
We especially enjoyed the gondola ride into the meadows of Alpe di Siusi/ Seiser Alm as excellently described in your book. I wear my souviner hat with both names on the bill with great pride and many positive memories. By the way, please say hello to Michael at the Hotel Solaia when next in towm. Great place that we highly recommend…regards..
I’d have to agree with Bob Smith.
Rick, we love your travel advice, but please keep your leftist politics out of it!
I also have say that we all came here to read about Rick and his travels. You can’t avoid politics and Rick. Every one is here for his insights, just know that next time he actually might want to include other info besides hey you can get good cheep food at this place…
The Dixie Chicks have a movie called Shut Up and Sing. I hope that there wont be a Rick Steves movie someday called,
Shut Up And Travel!
But back to the travel topic.
Rick, I bought your guide book on Germany. Very helpful. I hear the food is not all that good there, so I’ll look into the places to eat listed in your guide. Or maybe it would be a good time for me to lose a few pounds. LOL!
I always look forward to your new blog.
Keep up the great work!
Now, now travelers mind your blog manners. Everyone is entitled to their opinion. Be kind! Rick runs into many, many issues in his travels. He is generous to share them so we know what life abroud is really like. The world isn’t made out of swiss cheese!
I want to clear something up. This is the last I will post about politics, but there is a remark I made I want to be sure wan’t taken the wrong way.
When I said I hope there wont be a movie on Rick called, Shut Up And Travel, I meant that I hope Rick wont have any problems from the public that disagree with his politics. I agree on much of Rick’s politics, and am very much on his side.
RICK STEVES FOR PRESIDENT!
Since it looks as though this particular posting is turning into a heated debate about gun control issues, I thought I would insert an interesting proposal I ran across recently. Require all purchasers of hand guns to have a co-signing sponsor who is already a registered gun owner (maybe even an NRA member). Just as with car or home loans, the co-signer would be legally liable if the original purchaser “defaults” as a responsible gun owner. Presumably, the co-signer would know the would-be gun purchaser well and be willing to vouch for his or her mental health, fire-arm safety knowledge, and personal conduct and discretion. Might be worth a try!?
I enjoy reading all these comments…glad everyone feels like they can share their own opinions. my hubby and i are getting ready to plan a fall trip to Italy and Spain, using Rick’s books….I have a video Ipod I would love to take with for long train rides and in the hotel rooms, but does anyone know what I”d need to keep it charged? Would my regular wall charger work over there?? It’s probably a stupid question, but I’m wondering.
Happy Travels everyone!
To those of you who criticize and rant, might I remind you of how you came to this web sight. I believe you typed http://www.ricksteves.com I think that pretty much gives him the right to post whatever he wants.
Happy Travels!
I appriciate Ricks comments, and the comments he passes on that he hears from locals.
Perhaps as travellers we should all strive to be aware of what locals think of us.
I have a feeling people like Bob Smith do not talk or listen to locals.
I am not an American, but I thought your country was all about “free speech” so why do you critisize your own countryman for saying something completely non offensive. ??
Some Americans are weird.
Guns, = good.
Talking about politics bad unless you agree with me,= bad.
Bob,( and Dan) you do not sound fair ,, Rick can say what he wants, if you don’t like it,, well then, leave.
Free Choice = good!!!
Thanks for the link to the Iacocca book – maybe we need a “draft Lee for President” campaign! (And I rather doubt he would count as a liberal.)
Pat – I agree with you. These days it sometimes seems you’re only allowed “free speech” in the US if you agree with the administration – otherwise you’re somehow unpatriotic. Bizarre. (But I started life as a Brit.)
I love reading about your travels in the Dolomites, as I recall very fondly our stop in Kastelruth. It was a most magical place. We had to drive through the center plaza and out through a narrow arch to get to our hotel. Our teenage son traveled with us, and he had his own room here–where he figured the bidet was for sock washing.
The amazing thing was the local festival we happened upon. Something having to do with folktales about the witches in the mountains. Young women dressed as witches ran through the town carrying torches while groups of children chased them. We enjoyed folk music during the daylight, followed after dark by a pageant with “witches” chanting and dancing around a caldron the town hall’s steps . . . this was not something I ever anticipated experiencing in Italy. We never got the entire story, but we felt the warmth and welcome of the locals. It was unforgettable.
The following morning, the farmer’s market featured local growers dressed in Tyrolean outfits. Hats with feathers, women in embroidered aprons.
I am generally lukewarm about Italy, but I will never forget the days we spent in Kastelruth. And we never would have found it if it had not been for your books.
The bidet isn’t for sock washing? Oh oh.
East of Cortina the highway is extremely twisty and narrow as it crosses steep mountains. The road was crowded with far too many vehicles, and even more than elsewhere, some impatient drivers were proceeding in a most dangerous mode. At one place we were forced off the road and into a culvert, by an expensive sports car. The driver drove down the middle of the road, flashing his lights and blowing his horn, forcing vehicles off both sides of the road. The damage to our vehicle was less than the damage to our feelings for (some) Italian drivers.
While we shopped in a grocery store a farmer drove some cows through the streets of Bolzano. After he left, the store owner, with a scowl on his face, a broom in one hand and a shovel in the other, went out and cleaned up the mess.
Rick & Co. – could you please enlighten us on what a “post-9/11 Swiss Army knife” is? The TSA website states that ALL knives are prohibited carry-on except plastic and round-bladed butter knives. I asked at my local travel accessory stores and they had no idea about allowable multitools. I would like to be able to carry-on my luggage, but I don’t want to do without a multitool if at all possible, particularly scissors, can opener, corkscrew, and knife. I could conceivably do without a knife by breaking it off, but I fear TSA would confiscate it just the same.
Thanks for any info!
-Buck
From “Pat” on May 3:
I am not an American, but I thought your country was all about “free speech” so why do you critisize your own countryman for saying something completely non offensive. ??
Some Americans are weird.
Guns, = good.
Talking about politics bad unless you agree with me,= bad.
Dear Pat,
I agree that free speech is great. So, how about this….some non-Americans (like you) are not very smart. Free speech goes both ways. You cannot suggest I am infringing on Rick’s free speech rights simply because I disagree with him. (Putting aside the fact that I am not the government.)
Moreover, if you actually read what I wrote, you’d realize that I merely suggested to Rick that his views might turn some people off. Which might cost him in our capitalist system. (See, Rick might have issues with America, but he likes the millions it makes him.) Rick, of course, is free to ignore my advice or to tell me to shove it.
Our family was in Castelrotto in July and stayed at Hotel Cavallino d’Oro. It was wonderful and Stefan was so friendly and charming. I told him, I wanted to keep his hotel and the area a secret as it was right out of the “Sound of Music”. He begged me not to do that, so that is why I’m writing to you and your following of dedicated travellers. We took the chairlift up the mtn. and hiked down it, a long and strenous hike for seniors. Our kids and grandkids had no problem. We had rented cars in Florence, and dropped them off in Venice. I also have a recommendation for a tour guide in Rome, which I will e-mail to you. Thank you for your great guide books and TV programs.
Enrich your life through experiential activities, arts, and crafts. Make your vacation a life-enriching experience. There is a part of you that you have yet to discover.
Most of the time, you travel to discover new places. What if you could discover another side of you during your journey? Through creative tourism experiences, visitors to Americans can expect life-enriching lessons that reveal undiscovered parts of themselves.