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| Berlin’s Spree River boat tours are suddenly a major attraction as the riverfront is lined with glorious, modern, governmental architecture. You’ll glide by buildings like the Chancellery — Germany’s grandiose answer to our White House. Enlarge photo |
I just spent three days in Berlin. Of any place in Europe, this city is a work in progress…a place you need to be in every couple of years to see how it’s developing.
The city center is blossoming. In fact, the big change in my guidebook: I now recommend the Spree River Boat Tours simply to glide by all the stunning new governmental architecture lining the river. And, while the Hohenzollerns built their buildings right up to the river (a Prussian snub against its people), today’s government seems determined to make the riverbank through Berlin a delightful park. New buildings are set back, beachy cafes come with summery lounge chairs, and the river that once had metal nets and barbed wire to keep people from crossing it to freedom now makes you want to walk a dog and hug someone.
On the down side, locals are complaining that the Berlin government is deeply in debt — $25,000 per person. Many parks are unkempt. Scaffolding is stuck in place as many building projects are on hold. The rest of Germany says that’s the price Berlin should pay for its grandiose building schemes of the last decade.
Locals are concerned that the city is coping by selling itself to foreign investors. Russian mafia types invest here because they need a solid place to put their black money. They expect crazy-high interest rates (as they’d get in corrupt Russia) and are frustrated when they don’t get them.
While Berlin is cheap by big city standards in Europe, and really happening if you are creative and edgy, it’s not the greatest if you’re filthy rich. You just can’t find the super-elite social clubs you find in Munich or Hamburg. And local elites complain that their fanciest club (China Club, $40,000 per year membership fee) is becoming overrun with Russian members.
Rick………..was in Berlin for first time in 10 years a few years ago…..used your book….not like visit before when had no RS info …not as smooth but still an adventure…..what a great visit this time…..had a fantastic time and all for dirt cheap prices…ie full buffet dinner for five euro dollars in a great neighborhood…they gave me a free aperitif after meal as well…just fantastic….the big church (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church) was great….thanks for the help Rick………
I’m loving that you’re back on the blog, Rick! But where are the pictures? I’m missing that part of it.
Interesting point about the debt per person…. how large it is and how quickly it has come. Americans should be taking notice!
This might be the first blog title in history to feature both the words “suck” and “Hohenzollern”.
The China Club, in Berlin, overrun by Russians. What delightful irony.
The debt came about because they built a new capitol. Suppose the US was split in two with the east coast being occupied for 30 plus years. And in that time most of Washington DC was destroyed. Then we’re reunited. Do we move the capitol back to DC or leave it, say, in Chicago? Do we rebuild it as it was and incur debt or do we do an economy class? It probably depends on the economic times. Remember when Germany made their decision there was a boom boom economy. The debt probably has increased due to The Economic Downturn, or TED as we call it. But, I sure would be hesitant about drawing any parallels without a lot of study. PAm
We’re spending more money than ever in a ‘bust’ economy. Seems awfully foolish to me!
Berlin has obviously come a long way since Checkpoint Charlie and U.S. armored divisions protecting against invasion from the East. It may not be truly representative of greater Germany however. The middle class Germans I know built their own homes with much sweat equity. They may have indulged themselves with base model Mercedes (which are used as taxi cabs there)but live in much smaller, less pretentious homes than many middle class Americans. As a culture they do not squander money and they were upset when the federal republic absorbed East Germany because it affected their taxes. To the issue of debt spending, our own depression became a Huge Depression because our federal government at that time would not spend money. Currently we have officially 6.7 million out of work. It’s actually more like nine if you factor in those who are working part time or who have given up looking. Without federal pump priming by the federal reserve plus federal spending programs, far more would be unemployed. Because we “have ours” we cannot say to others, let them eat cake. And business is notorious – as well as justified – in caring only about its profits and its shareholders. That’s why our federal government exists. To help defend its citizens – and not just with tanks and $250,000,000 warplanes.
Interesting stuff, Rick. I haven’t been to Berlin since the divided city days in 1967, and I have yet to see or read anything that makes me want to go back, not with all the great places I’ve yet to visit in Europe. And I am feeling so bad for the filthy rich of Berlin.
I just read an interesting excerpt of a book about how not to act old (like not using a watch to tell time – that is so old – but rather your cell phone). It also said that the old cool trip destination for 20-somethings to Europe was the Provence with its lavender fields and stone villas and villages. Now the cool trip destination for young people is Berlin because of the hundreds of artistic events, clubs, theaters, bars, etc. in town, probably including those beach chairs you saw along the Spree River. They surmised the next destination might be Slovenia or something [Bohemian] like that. I wonder what Steve’s take on this is.