Flying from Istanbul’s Ataturk Airport to Tehran’s Khomeini Airport, I considered airports others on the flight had used: Reagan, DeGaulle…four great leaders in recent history who have left their mark on entire nations. I was entering a society 30 years into the Islamic revolution of the Ayatollah Khomeini. The lives of 70 million people in the Islamic Republic of Iran have been shaped by this man. More than half the country has no memory of living under anything but a theocracy.
Buckling my seatbelt, it occurred to me that someone could come on the plane’s loudspeaker and say, “We’re taking this plane to Tehran” and no one would be alarmed. The plane was filled with Iranian people — their features were different from mine, but they dressed and acted just like me.
These people were well off — well dressed, healthy. It was horrible to think of fighting them in a war. Then I wondered if it is easier to bomb a society ground down by years of sanctions. Are scruffy, poor looking people easier to shock and awe? As we all settled into the wide-body jet, I wished the big decision-makers of our world weren’t shielded from an opportunity to share an economy cabin with people like this.
I made this same Istanbul-to-Tehran trip 30 years ago. Last time it took three days on a bus and the Shah was on his last legs. Wandering Iranian towns in 1978, I remember riot squads in the streets and the Shah’s portraits seeming to hang tenuously in market stalls. I also remember being struck by the harsh gap between rich and poor in Tehran. I was 23 years old. I believe that was the first time in my life I was angered by economic injustice.
The trip is quicker this time — three hours rather than three days. And now every main square and street that was named Shah is named Khomeini. Back then all denominations of paper money had one face on them…like today. At the Khomeini International Airport the only hint of the Shah was the clientele (many of those flying in were likely his supporters who’d fled Iran for the West in 1978 and who were flying in today to visit loved ones).
As the pilot began the descent, rich and elegant Persian women put on their scarves. With all that hair suddenly covered, I noticed how striking long hair can be, how it really does grab a man’s attention. Looking out the window at the lights of Tehran, the sight reminded me of flying into Mexico City at night. Tehran, with 14 million people, is more populous than all of Greece (where I was just traveling).
I’m starting this trip a little bit afraid. I don’t know what’s in store for us. We are anticipating a challenging and extremely productive 10 days here.
I am in awe of your trip, Rick, and of what we will get to learn through you. Already I appreciate your willingness to share your feeling of trepidation that comes through in your blog, as well as appreciating the goodness and humanity you expect to find in Iran. What did Maya Angelou say? You can’t hate someone whose story you know. Please bring us the stories. Tell us about the children. And let it become crystal clear to us all that bombing this part of the human family would be — is — absolutely unthinkable.
Rick, I am in awe of this journey you have decided to take and I look forward to doing it with you through your blog. I’m hoping that your days there are filled with rich and wonderful experiences that you can share…. This is truly inspirational. Happy Travels!
Congratulations, Rick on taking a trip that many of us would like to. I will be reading your blogs imagining myself walking with you. Thanks and have a safe and wonderful trip.
With a tear in my eye and a full heart, I salute you Rick! This is how we build peace and who better to make a contribution to this noble cause than you? I will indeed be traveling along via your blogs and sending you my supportive energy. In appreciation, Molly
Perhpas Rick could drop by Evin and visit these folks. http://www.cnn.com/2008/WORLD/meast/05/16/iran.bahais/index.html?iref=mpstoryview
Rick, What a great grasp you have on what would be helpful in learning to understand Iran. You are going there! I am so interested to hear what you will have to say, knowing you are not aligned with any political organization. You are a gifted and knowledgeable observer. I can’t wait for the next blog! Lynn-Alpharetta
Rick, the next 10 days will be full of adventures. I look forward to watching the new shows. Take care.
Rick, I know that you and the crew will be stressed during this 10-day marathon journey through Iran and will be VERY tired by the end of it. However, I really hope that you will not be too tired or distracted by the demands of producing a film like this so you can stay alert and be attentive to those “first impressions” that you have when it comes to the people. While the history and literature of Iran/Persia are wonderfully rich, what I will find interesting in your blog will be your observations of the everyday life of the people. (I also look forward to reading the day to day logistics of trying to do this project in such a short period without any real “advance” time to prepare for the “great shots”.) As for the actual film, I am certain it will include a woven tapestry of your observations of the people and places that you visit. Thanks for taking the extra time at the end of your busy day to sit down and blog for those of us who are following this.
Rick, I look forward to reading about your experiences in Iran. As this wil be one of your half hour TV programs would it be possible to do a DVD of it and as an extra include all of the film you don’t use in the program. And one where you and your crew talk about the experience and thoughts you had as the TV program is playing. That would be a DVD I would be happy to buy. This is one of your programs that all Americans especially our politicians must see. Thanks for making this trip, it is important and great that you are doing this now.
Rick, I wish you the best of luck on your journey. I’ve waited for you to step outside the European theater for a change. I’m envious that you will travel to a sophisticated society that has been all but invisible to the American people. I’m certain that your show or shows from Iran will be among your masterpieces. Look forward to hearing from you soon!
Thanks for making an effort to allow real people here to know real people in Iran. That is,not government at government. I wish I could go with you (ETBD) or go with Friendship Force or Servas and get to know real folks. If you need someone to carry your grip, I would love to even if I am 72.I too want to hear about the dreams of the children. Peggy Texas
I am impressed by Rick Steve’s choice of Iran. He is correct that by sharing his travel experiences he will be able to open the eyes of a nation that has very limited knowledge of this country. This can only help to reduce any chance for a reckless assault on another nation. Whoever takes over as the next president of the USA will greatly benefit by this open dialogue and willingness to experience another culture. Thank you Rick. I have been on three of your tours, and will definitely do more.
Thank you rick to touch the right spot, so that is why Iam moved by the this news that you’re going to Iran. Iam very excited for you, because Iam sure you’re going to be okay. And have a p;easent experince from friendly Irannian. By the way Iam Irannian myself. I left Iran and my parents nearly twenty years ago. and I missed them so much. I agree with you abouty the politics and government playing power and rueing on people’s life. Good luck and hear from you.
From Steve’s intro to his travel guides: “Globe-trotting destroys ethnocentricity. It helps you understand and appreciate different cultures…Thoughtful travel engages you with the world…It broadens perspectives and teaches new ways to measure quality of life. Rather than fear the diversity on this planet, travelers celebrate it.” Man, talk about LIVING YOUR BELIEFS! I am in awe of you, Rick. Your trip SHOULD be front-page news in America, we both know that’s not going to happen. I feel like I’m in on a great inside story as I read your blog entries. Easy for me and fellow blog readers to say this, but: Hang in there, we are pulling for you and cheering for you. Best wishes for a safe, productive and engaging trip!!
I think you could have chosen many other options to promote, other than a country whose leaders have called for our destruction as well as Israel’s.
Thanks for taking us along on your ambassadorial journey, Rick. Hope your information and insights will be heeded by the current (and next) Washington administration. How do you like the traffic in Teheran?? Do they still drive at night with their headlights off??? Hope everyone will benefit/learn from your international expertise. Safar bekhair!
Rick, I am surprised that you are wasting your time visiting a country where very few of us would risk our lives to visit; also a country run by fanatics who you are legitimizing. It is a stunt. I am surprised that you are doing this. Are you trying to compete with the “Global Trekker” TV guy, Ian Wright? He wasn’t even in you league, perhaps you will be letting him in with this mistake.
It is so timely to see your e-mail from Iran. The politians are arguing about whether or not they should talk to the leaders in Iran. In the meantime you are getting the job done reporting your honest impressions of the real people of Iran and being an ambassador for us. After traveling to Europe many times (with your essential guidebooks) we’re staying home this year. So I’ll travel vicariously with you on what may be your most important trip so far. Thanks, Steve.
Rick, I wish you God Speed in your trip to Iran. I have always been an admirer of yours and hope that our Administration is aware of what you learn and write of about the people of Iran. I understand they do not like their current President who should be out of office next year, I believe. I only hope that Pres. Bush listens to Secr. of Defense Gates who wants to talk with all sides to reach a peaceful resolution. If only some inkling of reasonableness would seep into Bush’s head. We can only hope. In the meantime, take care and we look forward to learning more of Iran….I understand the Iranians have always liked us as people, but perhaps not our government (who does???) Best Regards, Dennis Fischer Naperville, IL
Rick, Thank you. I agree with all the comments so far. Except the two that must just watch Fox news and believe what the war mongers have to say. The people of Iran offered their help after 9-11. Remember, the terrorist were Saudis. Have a good time and let us know what the REAL Iran is like.
I lived in Isfahan in 1977-1979. Perhaps we crossed paths. I often dream about going back to see the markets, the mosques, the gardens and the desert. And Persepolis. I will follow your journey, and look forward to making one of my own!
YOU GO RICK! I love that you are doing this. This is for humanity. I am 100% aligned with your trip and I wish you the highest and best outcomes! FANTASTIC!!!!! Jenny
I’m sure the people of Iran, like the people of the US, are wonderful and peace loving. Their government, on the otherhand, is anything but. Their government says we are devils, are we? I know that I’m not. Let’s be serious. We know that the US will not attack Iran. Even though they support anti American attacks in Iraq. Everyone is aware of the Iraq mistake we made and congress won’t let it happen again, at least not anytime soon. It’s disappointing to hear people say that we’re bound to attack Iran, it sounds like the same rehtoric the US used in an opposite sense prior to the Iraq invasion. It is however refreshing to me to note that we’ll have a change in government next year and more than likely a change in foreign policy. How about the Iranian people?
I’m starting this trip a little bit afraid. I don’t know what’s in store for us.That is so authentic and raw a feeling. I can feel your anticipation, the quickened heart beat, the dilation of pupils as hyperalertness sets is,even your olfactory and auditory senses ramp up. But I also immediately think of Kindergarten Cop when Arnold’s partner tells him when dealing with 5 years olds don;t let them know you are scared “no fear”. I guess blending is out of the question. I know you will be fine because the tourist bureau will keep you in a cocoon but still I know you feel you can’t let your guard down…anticipting your next blog
I’m envious of all of your trips and enjoy hearing from folks who have taken Rick Steves tours. I’m new to your blog so is there a way to separate them by country so I don’t get overwhelmed with catching up on them all? And could you make that verification code larger for those of us with site problems? Thanks for your information on Iran. It is already a great trip for us all.
Today our youngest son graduated from Chapman University in Orange. The speaker was Daniel Pearl’s father. He spoke so eloquently about peace in the world, and I wish you peace on your trip, and that you can help pave the way for peace for our children. You are a great ambassador for all of us..thank you!
I can’t believe the number of people that is using this forum for their political agendas. Rick, good for you. I hope you and your crew have a wonderful time and find what you are looking for. I can’t wait to see the show that comes from it. And yes, I think your being there will do some good. Keep up the good work, will check every day for your blog.
Rick, I am very surprised and for some reason not surprised at the same time that you have chosen to visit Iran. I am Armenian born in Iran. My family has lived there for generations and still does till today. I worry for them everyday as our US Government feels a need to possibly take action. I feel the pain for the people there and their unfortunate and terrible leaders who are not the right leaders. you will have a hard time there with government, but not with the people. The people are the best in the world. They are loving, caring and love Americans.When i was young I even visited Perspolis… It is turly a great archeological site. I hope you get to see all the great places comfortably with no problems. Iran (Persia) as you know was once a world power and its truly a special place that has turned into a sad state for many years now due to its bad leaders. Good luck. Looking forward to your feedback and stories.
You and your crew are very brave to venture yet again into rough and somewhat unknown waters but then, if you didn’t take risks, your books and business wouldn’t be what it is today. If something my husband and I have learned from your trips is to get out there and just travel. Immerse yourself among the locals, share with them the love of their language, culture and diversity. Next week will be our third adventure to Europe, thanks to your inspiration. God Bless you and your crew, keep safe and I look forward to reading of your travels (wherever you are) and seeing your footage of Iran. Happy travels! J
Rick, I admire your trips to places around the globe…for this reason…you are never judgmental about what you see in a country. You describe, enjoy and pass information along to us. Keep up the great work that you’ve been doing for so many years now. Your trips are not just about travel. They are about acceptance, understanding and observation. I thank you for them all. I’ve been a willing participant in many of your travels…if only via TV. Thanks!
Rick, What an exciting journey you are on! Thank you for sharing your blog. I can journey with you as you share your experience. I couldn’t think of a better person to represent USA. Be safe and enjoy your travels.
Hi Rick, I have followed many of your trips around the world and even took a few trips per your recommendations. However, you make your trip to Iran sound like an assignment out of a James Bond movie or someone who is going to North Korea for the first time ever. Every year many Americans as well as European travel in and out of Iran at no harms. If you have not notices, there has not been any war, random bombing or any terrorist attack in this country for many years. . Please enjoy your time and Persian hospitality.
Go for it! If Jimmy Carter can do it, you can do it better. You are taking America with you and bring back the best that Iran has. I can’t wait to see the results. Al
Hey Rick; I have traveled 22 times to the former Soviet Union. And a numberof times to places lick Red China, various former Soviet Republics and former communist countries like Hungary, Check Republic and others. As well traveled as I am I must say that it is entirely consistent with my experience on two points; 1) it is always apprehensive to go to one of these “tougher” countries and 2) it has always been incredibly enlightening. People are simply people and to learn and know their backgrounds, lives, etc. is simply an invaluable experience and tool to understanding. Keep it up my friend. We leave, once again, on JUne 2 for our next adventure in this great trip of learning which can only be done through traveling. Cheers.
Rick, PLEASE READ….I too wish you a safe journey. I wholly expect you will find a gracious and loving people in Iran. I am sure over the next 10 days you will be reporting on the “human face” of Iran including stories detailing their unique culture and proud people. You will surely tell us tales that fit with a generous society no different than Americans and Europeans in their desire for peace and prosperity. HOWEVER, it is all besides the point if the GOVERNMENT of Iran is developing nuclear weapons. My warning to you is not to legitimize the actions of the goverment of Iran. PLEASE separate the topics of Iranian culture and society from the hostile actions of Iranian government policies. The good nature and friendliness of the Iranian people SHOULD not in anyway legitimize the actions of Iran in enriching uranium and trying to develop nuclear weapns. Be careful and good luck!
Rick – As a Republican, I believe that our government has NO PROBLEM with the Iranian people, but INDEED has a problem with the Iranian government. On the reverse, I believe that the Iranian government has NO PROBLEM with the American people, yet DOES have a problem with the American Government. Just stay safe, have fun, and get some insight and information so you can write a guidebook and blaze a path for us to follow!!!
Rick, I love all of your books, tv programs and travel info, but I think you have gone too far with this trip to Iran. Iran is a country that promotes terrorism and is aiding Al-Kaida and others who fight against U.S. soldiers in the Middle East. Of course, there certainly must be some good people in Iran, but that is no reason to accept an invitation by the Iranian government to produce a tv program promoting tourism in Iran. I am surprisedthat you bought into that offer. It is nothing short of disrespectful, given all that is going on in the region. I’m sure there were also good people in Germany during the time of Hitler’s reign, but I wouldn’t expect that you would have gone there to promote tourism in Germany while the U.S. was at war with the Nazis. Thanks for listening to my comments. Barb F.
The above post (Peter from Tampa) has hit the nail on the head. Peaceful citizens do not equate to peaceful foreign/domestic policy. If you equate one with the other you have in-fact done a great disservice. Support of terrorism, anti-Zionism, women’s rights, civil liberties, etc… the Persians you meet will have no direct correlation with any of these realities. Please do not validate the Islamic Nation of Iran based on the beauty of the Persian culture & its wonderful citizens. You said your aim was strictly tourism and it is my hope you keep true to that objective. If you interject politics along the way I think your own peace-loving agenda will incorrectly skew the truth of the political reality. That said, I wish you much luck & safe travel.
Rick- I just left a professional training and was talking with a friend, who left Iran 7 years ago and returns for a couple of months at a time to be with family and to work some. He talked of life there and his reactions to 9/11 and how people’s generalizations affect him. I am quite interested in your mission and what you will find.
Rick , you inspire me to be a better communicator. Am a F/A. Am looking forward to hearing more. Really enjoyed your daughter’s story Blessings.
Rick. I observed most of your bloggers encourage you NOT. to make it Political. I disagree as thats what the whole problem is with our relationship with most Mid East countries. Israel & our media have managed to distort all statements or actions by IRAN to support their unjustified actions. I am a 30 year AF veteran.43-78. Served in Teheran, IRAN 74-78 under auspices of the Dept of Defense training the IAF in 707/747 tanker cargo operations. I wish you success in clarifying our relationship with IRAN & Mideast countries. George
I just found out about Rick Steves a couple of weeks ago and have since enjoyed the Europe Travels DVD set shot from 2001- 2007. I was already impressed by Rick’s encyclopedic knowledge of European history. After reading Rick Steves personal blog that he is going to Iran, I respect him even more. You have gotten a new fan Rick.
Rick, I can’t tell you how much I admire you for doing this. The most glaringly lacking, and therefore desperately needed, component of today’s foreign policy is a willingness to understand the peoples in distant locales, and I commend you for taking the initiative in this regard. Keep up the good work — I’ll be reading about it on your blog! Thank you for all you do.
Rick Thanks for the update. We are all keenly interested in your trip. ………..I know you are busy but if you could update your blog every ….ONE….. day instead of two it would be great. Of course we want to know also that you and Simon and Karel are safe as you travel.
Rick, I was very intrigued when I saw the class “Travel as a Political Act” on the agenda at a past Travel Fair I attended in Edmonds. Unfortunately, because of scheduling I was not able to attend but I do hope you offer it again. I am very impressed with your integrity and the example you are setting for the American people to have an open mind. I think what you are doing is a peaceful effort to raise awareness of what mass media has sheilded from the public. Kudos to you.
The best man in my wedding in 1975 was from Iran-Parviz Kamgar. He and I enjoyed many evenings playing chess, backgammon, foosball while we were students, and sharing cultural stories. I’ve lost track of Parviz. Rick–you are on the side of the angels.
Rick, I think you are a very foolish and a very gullible man. You seem to suck up the best of America in that your financial gains are derived from your US clients and yet your defense of the US is abominable. On Monday morning, PBS will receive a call from me to remove my name their patron list. Of course, this will not effect you because you have already attained your financial goals. It never ceases to amaze me how brave one becomes AFTER they have become well-known and financially sucessful. Mon
I look forward to following your story. Good luck and please be aware that many people are behind you. The Iranian people have every right to nuclear technology for peaceful purposes and it is sad that they will be bombed anyway. I know from my experiences in Iraq that the people of Iran will welcome you. It will not be difficult for you to show us the human face of Iran.
Rick, much good luck in your travels, I cannot wait to see these shows, and thanks for stating you are “a little bit afraid”-a man showing a soft side is a beautiful thing.
Your observations further prove just how completely out of touch our representatives and politicians are in Washington. The difference in the people of our nation and our political leaders is a complete dichotomy. One I sincerely hope will change in my lifetime. Keep us informed Rick, and above all else be safe. Godspeed, Richard.
DO NOT SAY ANYTHING GOOD ABOUT IRAN, or else you’re a socialist Jane Fonda who is being used by the Islamic Caliphate. The only accurate, believable thing to say about Iran is BAD BAD BAD.
What you are doing Rick, is “feet-on-the-street diplomacy”, and we need a lot more of it! Good for you and I look forward to your continued reports and impressions. Godspeed.
Rick, I was surprised to find several “negative” posts, because I am so impressed with what you have set out to do. As I checked out your “posting guidlines” I noticed you probably have the abiltity to remove these-but you don’t. You are allowing people to express themselves & to open dialogues for discussion. I couldn’t presume to know your motivation, but it just might help us understand both sides a little better, whether it’s neighbor to neighbor or nation to nation. Rick, I appreciate your deep & thoughtful observations & look forward to reading about them in the days to come.
Rick, Your undertaking is admirable. All Americans, including the politicians, should take the time to travel to Iran. This is where the world civilization started taking shape 10,000 years ago. Your statement made on May 17, 08 blog, “The lives of 70 million people in the Islamic Republic of Iran have been shaped by this man” is not true and very damaging. Iranian lives have shaped from an Aryan genes gradually from 10,000 years ago to the present. We recommend that you glance through history of this great human society and its achievements over the past thousands of years before spending 10 days filming it on camera and making statements that are more “politically” motivated than revealing the real truth. However, as said before, your small steps taken to bring some awareness to the public, is admirable. But, ensure your remarks are correct and supported by facts. There is a wide difference between the real genuine Iranians (Aryans) and the current government. Iranians are not terrorists, but through illiterate, ignorant and naive media and politicians this is how the world recognizes this cradle of civilization today.
Rick I am amazed and so proud that you are going to represent the people, not the government,of the U.S. I look forward to hearing all about the people. Travel makes us wiser.
I just returned from a 15 day tour to Iran and am a little disconcerted by all the somewhat naive comments here. Tourists have been visiting Iran for several years now and for the most part have returned full of praise for the warmth and friendliness of the Iranian people. Our group included 17 people of various ages (53-81) and backgrounds (retired librarian, university president, physician, art gallery curator, disc jockey, Jew, gentile, American, Australian, Swiss, etc.). We all loved Iran and its people. Everywhere we went we were approached by Iranians wanting to welcome us to Iran. Steve’s military allusions [his desire to “defuse the tension that could lead to war” and his “choice of weapons”, etc.] scare me. I hope his experience there is as wonderful as those of the many people I’ve talked with who have visited Iran.
Godspeed, and I will look forward to your show(s). I agree with your feelings that increased communication is the key to solving our conflicts in the Middle East, and I hope you are able to make some inroads. Diplomacy seems to be a strong attribute of yours. You remarked about economic injustice. I have to tell you that just about 35 years ago during one of my cross country (USA) treks, I decided to drive though Appalachia–it is there that I was first angered by economic and social injustice, and remain so. Good luck with this Iranian endeavor!
As much as you dislike our captialistic society and our government I can’t even begin to see you embracing on any level the theocracy of Iran no matter how nice the people are. We are nice people here in the US and you don’t like the US so why should Iran be any different. Remember the Iranian government does not welcome left wingers and socialists so tread lightly especially after you sang so merrily in the largest Gay chorus in America. ;)
Rick, I’ve always enjoyed your travel advice and loved a tour of France I took 3 years ago with ETBD. But I disagree with your liberal, socialist political views and wish you could keep them separate from your travel advice. I’m sure the people of Iran are nice just as most Americans are too. But just as you find our govt. making mistakes, so does theirs. I would challenge you to not forget the Iranian govt’s intolerance of things you believe in: homosexual rights (Iran doesn’t have “that problem” – I heard their President say that on TV in the U.S.), women’s rights, and use of alcohol/drugs. Also, there is not religious freedom. “In Iran, repression of the Baha’i community is official government policy. This policy is outlined in a previously secret memorandum that was uncovered and published by the U.N. Human Rights Commission in 1993. Written by the Iranian Supreme Revolutionary Cultural Council in 1991 and signed by Supreme Leader Ali Khamenei, this document provides a blueprint for the suppression of the Iranian Baha’i community. It contains specific guidelines for dealing with the Baha’is so that “their progress and development are blocked. â€Some 300,000 Baha’is live throughout Iran, making the Baha’i Faith the country’s largest minority religion. Baha’is have been targets of discrimination and violence in Iran since the religion began there in the mid-nineteenth century. More than 200 Baha’is were killed in Iran between 1978 and 1998, the majority by execution, and thousands more were imprisoned. Today the Iranian government regards Baha’is as apostates and “unprotected infidels.†Baha’is in Iran have no legal rights, and they are not permitted to elect leaders of their community. The Baha’i Faith has no clergy, and community affairs are coordinated by democratically elected governing councils called Spiritual Assemblies. Baha’is in Iran are systematically denied jobs, pensions and the right to inherit property.” They are also denied an education.
Maybe you should rent “Not Without my Daughter” and input that into your assessment of Iran and the people that inhabit it. And also as a woman I am offended you would promote any good will toward a country that so demoralizes and deameans women. What is wrong with you? Why do you cow towe to these type of people all the time. When they don’t make women cover up and walk 5 steps behind a man then we can talk. God bless America.
Rick, on a historical level the mid east should prove to be quite interesting.I read through the posted comments and found them to be typical,left side right side. The time for divide in this world is rapidly growing shorter.I find it alarming that in this day and age, we as a people are unable to see that. the earth is full of stupid people, the Muslem world is hanging on to traditions that are thousands of years old,and no longer apply in a modern society.The Christians blindly make the same arguements about their faith. The sooner we all accept our diffrences and learn to live with each other without greed and hidden agendas the better off we all will be.The sheep who follow these leaders in the east and the west are the same as they have been forever.Those of us with a brain and individual thoughts are caught in the middle.Rick enjoy your travels, I wish it were posssible everyone could walk a mile in everyones shoes.the poor want to blame somebody else,the rich are so far removed from reality until the bombs go off on their doorsteps they will keep their heads buried in the swimming pool.Talk radio plays up to this ignorance left and right.Wake up people have an original thought,try being understanding of all,the earth grows smaller everyday.
Forty years ago I was living in Iran. I arrived there in November 1966 and left in March 1969. It was during that period that the Shah was coronated. I served as a U.S. Marine Security Guard at the American Embassy in Tehran. It was a wonderful experience that I will always cherish. I often think about going back to see how things have changed and do things that I failed to do 40 years ago. The best I have been able to do so far is to “visit” through Google Earth and the changes I see online are enormous, as it is everywhere else in the world. I’m glad for your trip and look forward very much to your reports.
Rick and crew– I returned on May 2 from having spent two weeks in Iran as part of a citizen diplomacy delegation organized by Global Exchange. We met with representatives of religious and educational communities as well as many informal interactions with Iranians in teahouses, at historical sites, and in bazaars. We had overwhelmingly positive experiences and were warmly welcomed everywhere we went (Tehran, Yazd, Shiraz, and Esfahan)in this beautiful, sophisticated, and deeply historical country. I am so happy that you are making this trip to bring your first hand experiences to a wide audience. From my conversations with Iranians, I found that, just as in our country, many citizens disagree with the actions of their government. The kind of “ground-truth” we get from people-to-people contacts is essential to understanding each other and to recognizing that the people of a country are not the same as its government. Thank you for making this trip and may it serve the cause of peace.
Hi Steve- I am one of your big fans. It’s about time someone for someone like you to travel to Iran and tell the world what a beautiful country it is. You will have a very good and safe time traveling. My American girfriend, Jill, and I travled to Iran and visited my family in Tehran and Shiraz. She had a great time and she can’t wait to go back. She bought two persian rugs and still is craving for all the great food and the hospetality of the warm and loving people. Thank you for doing this. Parvin
Greetings from Tehran and welcome! I hope that you’ll enjoy your trip and looking forward to read your next posts. Khosh Amadid!
Rick: I hope the risks you and your crew are taking turn out to be worthwhile. It is a difficult task you’ve untaken. Be safe and cautious.
Rick: Am so looking forward to your stories about the culture and people of Iran. I’m sure they have the same dreams, desires and loves that we Americans have and there will be no better ambassador to convey our love for other cultures and for our differences than you. That is what makes our world so wonderful and such a joy for traveling. God’s speed! Irene
Rick: Thank you for making this trip. I send you my best wishes and blessings for a fruitful, informative, healing, and SAFE journey. I look forward to seeing the show, knowing in advance that it will be wonderful. Kathleen Johnson
Rick: Thank you for making this trip. I send you my best wishes and blessings for a fruitful, informative, healing, and SAFE journey. I look forward to seeing the show, knowing in advance that it will be wonderful. Kathleen Johnson
Yes, we would do well to learn about the Iranian people and their culture. I only wish you had a TV program to present to them so that the Iraninan people could learn about the greatness of the American people and its culture. However, the Iranin government would never allow America to be shown in a positive light.
Good luck on your trip! I’m one of your biggest fans … I was just wondering when you wrote that last blog. It sounded like you wrote it on the plane, or was it after you got to your hotel room … I was just curious and trying to picture it. Anyway hope all goes well!
Rick, What a wonderful life experience you are allowing all of us to share in. I hope this trip fufills all your greatest hopes and accomplishments…..taking you to that next level in life! It is so true what you say about wanting all world leaders to have the experience you are having, to be able to sit down with people from all different walks of life…to just appreciate the differences and similarities that we all have. I believe this is truly how GOD wants us to live our lives……in peace with all others. Be safe and have a FABULOUS time! I’ll be excited to read your next blog entry! Cheers! Lisa
Thank you Rick for taking this journey. I have spent quite a bit of time getting to know Iraqi and Iranian people and also was very frustrated by the narrow Western views of their society. Thank you for ‘walking the walk’ to disprove those views. I think that you will find the same (if not more) generosity with the sharing of their culture and lives. Have a safe journey.
Rick, I can’t tell you how excited I was when I read that you were making this historic trip to Iran and that at last we would get some information about the lives and current thoughts of Iranians from a source we can trust. I admire you for following your convictions. Little did I know, as I listened to your talk on travel as a political act the night before you left for Portugal, that you would be putting that philosophy into practice so soon and in such a dramatic way. I was so impressed with your presentation, especially after the “high” of attending our local legislative caucus as a delegate for Barack Obama that day. It is refreshing to know that he, like you, actually advocates talking with our “enemies.” My heartfelt thanks to you for having the courage and the conviction to make this trip and to share with all of us your impressions of the Iranian people. I hope that you will also convey to those you meet that we wish them well and are working hard to create a new world in which the United States of America is not perceived as a threat or a bully but as a leader in bringing people together to solve the pressing problems of this world. With best wishes for your success, Cindy Duryee Kenmore, Washington
Rick, I can’t tell you how excited I was when I read that you were making this historic trip to Iran and that at last we would get some information about the lives and current thoughts of Iranians from a source we can trust. I admire you for following your convictions. Little did I know, as I listened to your talk on travel as a political act the night before you left for Portugal, that you would be putting that philosophy into practice so soon and in such a dramatic way. I was so impressed with your presentation, especially after the “high” of attending our local legislative caucus as a delegate for Barack Obama that day. It is refreshing to know that he, like you, actually advocates talking with our “enemies.” My heartfelt thanks to you for having the courage and the conviction to make this trip and to share with all of us your impressions of the Iranian people. I hope that you will also convey to those you meet that we wish them well and are working hard to create a new world in which the United States of America is not perceived as a threat or a bully but as a leader in bringing people together to solve the pressing problems of this world. With best wishes for your success, Cindy Duryee Kenmore, Washington
Rick Steves for President of the United States! You bring the world together through your travelling, and that should be the job of your President. Vancouver, Canada
Rick, I am an Iranian American living in Los Angeles, looking forward to an unbiased story. I am sure you will find nothing but kindness.
Our family spent six months living and working in Teheran from mid-1978 until early 1979 at which time we were evacuated after Khomeini’s return to Iran. In spite of our “sudden” departure, we found that, during our brief time in the city, the people we met were wonderful. Our landlord’s family invited us into their home on many occasions and treated us like family. They introduced us to their family and friends. Everywhere we went, the people were very cordial and always treated us with kindness and respect. It was a wonderful experience, albeit a too short one. We lost contact with them during the turmoil of the revolution. Our prayers are that they are safe and living a good life. I would very much like to return to see how it has changed in the almost 30 years since we left. Sadly we were unable to get out to explore the city as we would have liked because a curfew was imposed within two months of our arrival, thus limiting much of our time for adventures. I also attempted to learn a bit of Farsi but that too was short-lived. There is a rich history and culture in Iran and we all should learn more about it. Since that brief time in Teheran, we have lived and worked in several other countries and have found that people are pretty much the same everywhere. If we take the time to see a country, meet its people and try to understand the history and culture of that country, we will find a world rich with many wonderful opportunities. Hopefully your trip will open the door to understanding for all Americans.
Rick, I am so glad that you finally were able to make this trip. Thank you and your hard working crew for doing this. Looking forward to see you back home and see your shows. “You must not lose faith in humanity. Humanity is an ocean; if a few drops of the ocean are dirty, the ocean does not become dirty.- Mahatma Gandhi”
rick, i have nothing but respect and admiration for your bravery. vaya con dios!
Rick, very much lookng forward to seeing and hearing about this journey. Wow!!! I have been a long time follower of you and your travels….Take in as much as you can of the people and the culture and stay safe. As you would say…Happy Travels….I will be there in blogsville.
Rick, I hope you have safe travel during your visit to Iran. Thank you so much for this blog – we can take the journey with you. As I’ve learned through my travels and as you’ve often said, we’re all people on one planet and meeting each other is so important to building friendships and understanding different cultures. If I had the same opportunity as you, I would be doint the exact same thing.
Way to GO, again. Just in from Latvia last night and catching up on jet lag, but wanted to add my two cents. My mechanic was born in Baku and grew up in Tehran – he will be so excited that you are “doing” Tehran, he will get goose bumps. He wants me to go to Baku with him, so maybe we will have to do Tehran also. I did not want to get on another airplane for awhile, but this gets my juices going again – can’t wait to get my passport stamped in Tehran.
Rick, You saw it yourself on the airplane. People who had to flee Iran in 1979 because they no longer felt safe. I don’t have to visit Iran to find out about Persians. I have a Persian family living next door. They are Jews and had to flee, flee from their homeland because they were in fear of their lives. Many wealthier Iranians escaped and fled to California for freedom and safety. What does it say about all those smiling, friendly people you will meet in Iran who let this happen to their fellow citizens? What to say about a people who let themselves be taken over by a fanatic theocracy that forces women to cover up and lynches gays? Your Iranian handlers won’t let you ask these sorts of questions and the man on the street will be too fearful of the government to answer them. So much for an objective look at Iran.
Sadly, Rick’s anti-American bias is off to a good start. First he called the evil Ayatollah Khomeini a “great leader”, comparing him to DeGaulle and Reagan. This is the same Khomeini who has political opponents executed and then sends a bill to the families of the executed, charging them for the bullets used to kill their family member. Rick’s dreamy Kumbaya statement, “I wished the big decision-makers of our world weren’t shielded from an opportunity to share an economy cabin with people like this”, sounds like a real parallel to what President Bush said in Israel: “As Nazi tanks crossed into Poland in 1939, an American senator declared: ‘Lord, if I could only have talked to Hitler, all this might have been avoided.'” Sounds like Bush was on to something! Notice in the 3rd paragraph where Rick blames our sanctions for Iran’s poverty: “a society ground down by years of sanctions”. If your real goal of this trip is to help us avoid a war with Iran, then DON’T criticize the only real alternative we have to war — tough, tough sanctions! It amazes me to see posters on this blog praising President Carter — the REAL appeaser, and the one whom Bush was speaking about (not the vain Obama, who thinks everything is about HIM).
Thank you, Rick, for understanding that it’s about the people, not the politics. Who wants to go out there and be defined wholly by the actions of their government? I am proud to be an American, but I am not proud of what our government has come to represent in recent years. I hope that people around the globe are willing to respectfully learn about me without the wildly inaccurate presuposition that I and my goverment are one. So should I not give that same respect to the Iranian people? So, thank you Rick for understanding that it’s the culture, the people, the soul of a country that truly define it. Politics and power are the deceptive mantle that can hide the beauty in any society. peoplepolitics
Rick I am an Iranian who lives in the States for almost 10 years. I am a fan of your travel books and so excited to hear about your unbias trip to Iran.I am sure one thing that you will notice in this trip is the seperation between the iranian government and the people. This is not a dangerous country for visitors at all. generally, iranians love visitors. When you are in Tehran, Check both north and south of Tehran. the difference is so obvious. Check hotel Abasi and the tea house in Isfahan. Good luck in your trip. Looking forward to read your advantures in Iran. Safar Khosh bogzareh!
It seem to me that most writers on this page, have never read history, so they are surprised to find that individual people in Iran are nice people, the government is not. Read some history, and you will find this is not only stupid, but almost normal. But what bothers me are people like Shahram, who says he lives in LA, and others who brag they no longer live in Iran. I was recently in the hospital and the nurses I met were born in a dozen countries, including Iran and Syria. I lived near Palm Springs for 25 years, I once asked a doctor, “What do people in Iran do when they need a doctor, you are all over here?†The barber who cuts my hair was born in Iran. Aren’t we lucky that Washington, Franklin and Jefferson didn’t leave our country just because they didn’t like the government. They created a new government. Castro conquered Cuba using fewer people, than live in a city block in Miami, so don’t believe them when they say they care about the place where they were born. It is my belief that when anyone comes to our country to get educated they must go home and live in their home country for at least 10 years before they can immigrate to the US. When someone comes to this country from a third-world country, after 10 years here, they must go home for 10 years to improve the standard of living for others. Can you name a country that does not have what is usually called Western European Culture, where people from oppressed countries want to move? And this does not just concern Iran, it concerns all countries. In Burbank and Glendale there are signs in a forign language on half the buildings. The Armenians all tell me how much they love their country, but they don’t live there, so how do they know. And let’s not even mention the Mexicans. When I was born, the populaton of the US was 128,000,000, and now it is over 300 million and growing. Why not make your home land a place worth living?
Thrilling trip! I envy and admire you. My mom and her siblings grew up there. I suspect you’ll find beautiful landscapes, modern cities and hospitable people. Thank you so much for lending your hand to promote peace!
One of my colleagues went to Iran as a tourist two years ago and had a wonderful trip. As she reported, it’s perfectly safe and friendly for Americans (as long as we aren’t at war–if an invasion or bombing happened, it might be a different story, of course.) But I imagine it is an entirely different experience dragging a film crew along. All it takes is one power-mad local official or one police officer who misunderstands what you are doing and it could be a long, unpleasant scene. Thanks for doing this, Rick. I look forward to seeing the show.
Rick, I rarely take time to read your blogs but this trip goes far beyond fun and tourism. I am anxious also and really hope you can make a difference. It makes my work with people in the USA seem so easy, even when I feel stressed. Alice from Topeka
Hi Rick [and to everyone sharing his experience, greetings salaam u aleikum!] I am a World Religions and Social Justice teacher in Houston and I am looking forward to saving and sharing your observations with my class in the fall. I find that we Americans tend to be culturally and politically isolated and many seem to believe still in some sort of Manifest Destiny. The more we can actually ‘get to know’ other people and cultures, perhaps the less superior we will feel and the better global citizens we will become.
Just a note to Jim, I looked at my notes again, I don’t know why my notes to him sounds like I hate Iran. In a matter of fact, I love Iran. It’s my homeland, and I belong to there. I don’t like the government and the system, but has nothing to do with the country. What I was trying to say is that Iran is not a bad place to travel, and it is not as dangerous as what American media is advertising, especially for the visitors. Also, you are right, one day I need to go there and serve my country ( that day is not today).
Humberd if you would like to run as an independent I think you may show what fools McCain, Barry O and the Hill really are. You will have my vote and countless millions more I am sure! Where do I send the check? Rick I still say you are the BEST in the business at the travel thing but you really need to leave politics to the politicians. Why lower yourself?
Rick Steves for President! (After Obama’s two terms) What a worthwhile project. Good luck!
My father is from Iran and most his family still lives in the country. I only just met my grandmother before she passed away when I was 20 years old. Needless to say we did not venture into Iran, but met in Istanbul. I don’t speak Farsi and was never able to have one conversation with my Iranian family. I doubt many people can comprehend how saddening this is to me. I am not interested in the Iranian government, or what the people of Iran think of ours – we all have our own opinions regarding that subject – but I would love to simply get a glmipse into the daily life of the country’s people. Sights, sounds, smells. To pretend I’m there. To see the place where my ancestors are from. I doubt I’ll ever get there in my lifetime, but I am looking forward to your views as you see them. I am convinced the majority of the people are simply searching for a decent life for themselves and their families; a universal truth. They are not ruminating hatred towards the USA as our media would have us believe. My guess is that you’ll have a thrilling trip; nervousness mixed with wonder at the ancient civilized land you are exploring. Try the tadiq.
Hey Rick; Perhaps you would also cover who put this regime in power! I am an expatriate and I tell you it was the Western world who is responsible for this awful situation in Iran today. Perhaps you take a unchartered path and cover the role of Oil in this shameful so called revolution! I am sure you will find that people are people no matter where you go, they act out of their paradigm! You have a good time there and bring back the truth.
It’s so wise if you scare from your foolish and dump president than Iranians! Have fun in Iran and I hope you feel the realities here and have the courage and intention to narrate them for your people. Have fun in my beautiful ancient mysterious country.
Hi Rick, Regardless of your intentions and motives, this is a brave thing to do. Be safe.
Thanks, Riok, for exploring a beautiful country whose people are more evolved than their government. They’ll get there if we respect their right to govern their own country. Iran’s people were with us after 9-11 and they will be with us again, if we reach out in peace. Thank you for bucking political ignorance and bringing the light of peace in the form of knowledge. Blessings and peace hugs!
Visit Tehran24.com
Rick, Iranian cuisine is no doubt one of the BEST in the world! As you take in the sights, sounds, scents, don’t forget to learn about the rich Iranian cusine. Don’t get burnt out eating only at Kebab restaurants everyday (my favorite BTW in Tehran is Nayeb). Ask for authentic, home-made meals and Iranians will enthusiastically and generously invite you and all your crew home. Don’t leave the country without having tried: Ghorme sabzee (delicious greens stew) Ghayem’e (a delicious stew) Javaher/Shireen Polo (my favorite) Feenjoon (chicken & promegrante sauce) Albaloo Polo (Sour-cherry rice) Zereshk polo (Barberry rice) Sabzee polo/maahee (Dill rice/fish) Dizi (traditional, very good) Experience a typical breakfast by getting Barbaree and Sangak bread from any local clay oven bakeries) with rich creamy Iranian feta, walnuts, and sour cherry preserve with tea. Don’t forget desert with: -Traditional Bastani (Persian ice-cream, rose water, pistachios) -In Shiraz try: Paloodeh to cool off No ETOH? No problem: In Shiraz bazaar try the traditional delicious, cool herbal drinks (dozens of different kinds)called Aragh You have to try sharbate albaloo (sweetened, sour cherry juice and sharbate limoo (persian lemonade. -In Isfahan make sure to go to the tea house by the ancient riverside bridge. Isfahan is famous for a food called Beryoonee (its only found there!) Some links for you to consider good eateries there: Enjoy your stay and Bon Apetit (In Persian we say “Noosh’e jaan” http://www.irankicks.com/ikboard/showthread.php?t=48599 http://www.ghazayab.com/ http://www.payvand.com/news/08/jan/1096.html http://www.payvand.com/news/06/mar/1136.html http://www.payvand.com/news/07/jul/1190.html http://www.payvand.com/news/07/may/1274.html http://www.payvand.com/news/07/jun/1195.html http://www.payvand.com/news/07/may/1259.html http://www.payvand.com/news/07/may/1350.html http://www.payvand.com/news/07/sep/1029.html http://www.payvand.com/news/06/sep/1282.html
Thank you this project.
Hi, Please talk about Iran economy. Do you know Iran produces about one million cars? Do you know they have a yeary growth rate of 10% in in industrial sector? Do you know more that 95% of people own their homes not banks like USA? Do you know the folclusure rate is aout zero per cent? Do you know they produce airoplane and fighter jets? Do you know they have health insurance for everybody? and so on………
DearRick, I am anxious to see your show from Iran. I have traveled to about 130 countries and spent 2 weeks in Iran in 1999. I can absolutely say that I have never been to a country where I was treated with such friendliness. Walking down the street I was invited into homes–I was aproached by people who knew a sprinkling of English who wanted to talk, helped with my luggage ..It was an incredible experience.
Dude, whats taking you so long to post to this blog. It is already the 20th. Where is the blg for the 20th? Write more often. I am holding my breath here. Don’t forget to post some more pictures too. Lots of pictures…
Wow, this post might have the most comments of any I have seen. While our governments are at odds, I really do believe that there are misunderstandings on both sides. Many Islamic governments can’t separate religion from government so they see the West as representing Christianity and all other “infidels.” The same is true on the American side as I am sure we really don’t understand the people there as we only get our information from the “news.” I admit that I am more conservative in my beliefs and politics. Yet I tend to hate politics in general because I will NEVER put faith in politics and government to solve the world’s problems. So I really do appreciate Rick taking this step to introduce the people and culture of Iran to the world in hopes that it breaks down barriers. I know there are many anti-war/peace people on here (not that I am against that) but I don’t look at this in terms of keeping us from war. I think this is a great step in breaking down barriers. In all honesty, Americans, in spite of all our diversity, may be one of the most ethnocentric and ignorant nation when it comes to people, government, and cultures as we only see things one way – our Western, democratic, American cultural way (yes, I am generally considered a conservative). That’s the great thing about traveling. It opens our eyes to the world around us. And for those that are interested, my guess is Rick has some information on Iran before going. He actually has a tour guide that lives in Spain who is from Iran (Tooraj).
Amazing Rick. I am happy that you are doing this. Don’t let the Nay-sayers on this board discourage you. We need more people like yourself to give new perspectives to the closed minds of our country, and maybe even have some people finally question their own blind patriotism. Bring back a great show and share what you’ve learned!
To all the people above who are saying that the Iranian government is dangerous, even if the individual people aren’t: That’s not the point. If there’s a war, it’s those individual people who will suffer and die, not the government leaders. I don’t know if Iran is developing nukes or not. If they are, who can blame them, when they’re right next door to a country that the U.S. invaded without provocation?
i am so happy to know U R not and were not scared like so many other american/Gringos to go to IRAN,,,it is a wondeful country and worth seeing it /visiting .
Indispensable material for the advancement of friendly relations with Iran!This should be posted in the New York times.You may be instrumental in avoiding a war between the countries! Thanks Rick.Looking forward to meeting you again at KERA,Dallas and share a glass of wine!
Amazing how many things people believe that just aren’t so. Our government does not “want to bomb” Iran, but the best way to make sure a declared enemy does not attack you is to let them know that you “could” relialiate. We do not ignore Iran. Our government has carried on negotiations with Iran (and N. Korea) for 5 years. After all that, do you think either plans to give up their nuclear weapons development? I thought not. So let’s not be naive. The land is beautiful, the culture is interesting and somewhat exotic, most people will be pleasant to meet, so we can enjoy your travelogue, while being aware of your thinly-veiled political agenda.
Rick, maybe it is too late to leave a comment but I just came cross this blog and trying to read it through as much as I can. I am an Iranian and I traveled to Iran in June 2008. I was excited to read your blog and see what was your experience within 10 days. I adore what you do and keep up with it. I hope you go to Iran again and stay there more than 10 days. You touched my heart with your blog.
Rick, I finally saw the Iran show last Friday on channel Thirteen. Thank you for visiting the country that lots of us call home. I often feel uneasy to respond to the question: “Where are you from?” – don’t get me wrong, I am proud to be an Iranian! But people judge me differently especially when I am the first Iranian they are meeting. Thank you for your effort to change that. By the way, I was SO jealous when you had the saffaron ice cream, I haven’t had that for a long time! Thanks again! You’re the best!
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