“What flood?” If you lived through it last October, that would be a crazy question about the deluge that devastated two of the five villages that make up the Cinque Terre (my favorite stretch of the Mediterranean). But today it’s easy for a visitor to have the impression that it never happened. We just finished a little filming in Vernazza and Monterosso (the two towns that were hit). Here are a few photos — one sad, six happy — showing the former flood zone today.
The trails are wide open. In fact, they're better than ever — as locals (like Giuliano Basso, the best dry-stone mason in Vernazza) are painstakingly rebuilding the stone walls and bridges that were washed out. Here Giuliano points out a house built over a ravine that, when the flood hit, was cut in half and left hanging.
The big problem was that the streams, which had been covered by modern pavement as the towns modernized, were clogged and unable to accommodate the flow of the flash-flooding that tore down the surrounding hillsides. Now the capacity to let water flow freely under the streets and down to the sea is much, much greater. And wooden boards on the main street through Monterosso’s old town allow easy access to the streams when necessary.
The entire population pitched in to dig out. Even today, you’ll see teenagers having rock-removal parties on the beach, clearing out flood debris to make the beach inviting for the people who fuel Monterosso’s economy: its tourists.
Here on Monterosso’s main beach, the flood is ancient history.
For the casual visitor, Vernazza — hit much harder than Monterosso — feels just fine. While the upper town is still essentially closed, the main drag is jammed with beachgoers.
Three months ago, I was walking on Vernazza’s harbor — over mounds of debris and in the shadow of tractors. Today, the beach is a delight, the small boats bob lazily at their buoys, and the restaurants are thriving.
The people of Vernazza are back in business and life on the Italian Riviera is, once again, very good.
Comments
11 Replies to “Cinque Terre Flood Report”
Glad the towns have recovered. But having seen that photo of the crowd, the area has joined Venice on my “only out of season” list.
Definitely happy these towns have recovered in some aspects to handle any tourists that might be there this year. Let’s hope the flood of last year never happens again in such intensity.
So glad to see and hear about the recovery. The area is a treasure and should be preserved at any cost. Hope to return sometime.
I have fond memories of pranzo at Il Costello ristorante in Vernazza…I will revisit next September, thanks Rick for caring so much for the Cinque Terre…my son is loving your free app for iPhone on Italy, Bravo !
Scusi…I meant to say Il Castello Ristorante !
Thanks so much, Rick…your timing is perfect. We are planning a trip there in October and were concerned about the condition. Your timely report helps so much.
Rick,
It’s good to see another report on the current status of the Cinque Terre, and also good to see that so many people have returned there (judging by your photos). I’ll be back in that area on my next trip, and VERY much looking forward to it.
Thanks for the update. Thank goodness they are so dedicated to build these towns back up. It is a jewel of Italy
We remember the storm that changed our Cinque Terre tour from our November T/A Cruise to other areas not hit by them. Glad to hear that things are recovering there and getting back to normal. We love Italy and will be going back again to a week in Rome and perhaps some day trips to the Anzio and Monte Casino area this time! Thanks for your updates Rick, and we love your shows on TV which we pre-record on our DVR.
Hi Steve,
I don’t know what took me soooooooo long to find you on-line. Silly me. But I have just spent an enjoyable hour visiting the site and your honest comments. I came on line to say …I tape and watch all your shows (my little vacation from Seattle), but the repeats are coming around for the fourth and fifth time now. I wanted to urge you to head out for some new travels, just so I can “get back to Europe” and see what’s new. I happy to see you are at it as “we speak”. Thank you. I just happened to watch the Cinque Terra episode recently and was reminded of the horrible floods. I am so thankful to see they are recovering nicely. Finally, we are praying to get to Europe next year and you and your guidebooks will absolutely be our tour guide.
We enjoyed seeing the recovered Vernazza in August. We were walking toward the church when we saw a film crew filming someone only to realize that it was, in fact, Rick Steves.
It was our first visit and it is certainly a beautiful place. I can not begin to imagine what all that mud must have looked like. The visit to the place that is selling books on the flood was interesting too.
Rick, your info on the area made it one of the “must see” areas on our trip to Italy and France this summer.
Glad the towns have recovered. But having seen that photo of the crowd, the area has joined Venice on my “only out of season” list.
Definitely happy these towns have recovered in some aspects to handle any tourists that might be there this year. Let’s hope the flood of last year never happens again in such intensity.
So glad to see and hear about the recovery. The area is a treasure and should be preserved at any cost. Hope to return sometime.
I have fond memories of pranzo at Il Costello ristorante in Vernazza…I will revisit next September, thanks Rick for caring so much for the Cinque Terre…my son is loving your free app for iPhone on Italy, Bravo !
Scusi…I meant to say Il Castello Ristorante !
Thanks so much, Rick…your timing is perfect. We are planning a trip there in October and were concerned about the condition. Your timely report helps so much.
Rick,
It’s good to see another report on the current status of the Cinque Terre, and also good to see that so many people have returned there (judging by your photos). I’ll be back in that area on my next trip, and VERY much looking forward to it.
Thanks for the update. Thank goodness they are so dedicated to build these towns back up. It is a jewel of Italy
We remember the storm that changed our Cinque Terre tour from our November T/A Cruise to other areas not hit by them. Glad to hear that things are recovering there and getting back to normal. We love Italy and will be going back again to a week in Rome and perhaps some day trips to the Anzio and Monte Casino area this time! Thanks for your updates Rick, and we love your shows on TV which we pre-record on our DVR.
Hi Steve,
I don’t know what took me soooooooo long to find you on-line. Silly me. But I have just spent an enjoyable hour visiting the site and your honest comments. I came on line to say …I tape and watch all your shows (my little vacation from Seattle), but the repeats are coming around for the fourth and fifth time now. I wanted to urge you to head out for some new travels, just so I can “get back to Europe” and see what’s new. I happy to see you are at it as “we speak”. Thank you. I just happened to watch the Cinque Terra episode recently and was reminded of the horrible floods. I am so thankful to see they are recovering nicely. Finally, we are praying to get to Europe next year and you and your guidebooks will absolutely be our tour guide.
We enjoyed seeing the recovered Vernazza in August. We were walking toward the church when we saw a film crew filming someone only to realize that it was, in fact, Rick Steves.
It was our first visit and it is certainly a beautiful place. I can not begin to imagine what all that mud must have looked like. The visit to the place that is selling books on the flood was interesting too.
Rick, your info on the area made it one of the “must see” areas on our trip to Italy and France this summer.