Here you can browse through my blog posts prior to February 2022. Currently I'm sharing my travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on my mind solely on my Facebook page. — Rick
Traveling in Spain is a festival of images. While I was there earlier this spring, I chanced upon many beautiful moments…both lively and pristine.
Stepping away from the action of Granada’s Albayzín quarter and into the peace of the small Church of San Gregorio, I came upon a sister in white kneeling at the altar. She’s part of a holy team of Franciscan nuns who are committed to keeping prayers heaven bound 24/7. The silence, offering such a contrast to the hubbub outside, and the quiet persistence of her faith caused me to pause and be both thoughtful and thankful.
Seeing the delight ice cream brings a child is a universal slam dunk for a happy photo. (Here’s a tip: When photographing little kids, get down on their level.)
I enjoyed the scene at the Sunday morning antique market in Sevilla’s Plaza del Cabildo, near the cathedral. As I watched little kids earnestly trading soccer cards with adults, it occurred to me that Spanish kids trade cards of their soccer heroes just like American kids trade baseball cards.
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On Spain’s Costa del Sol, many towns come in pairs: the famous beach town with little history and its smaller yet much more historic partner established a few miles inland — safely out of reach of the Barbary pirate raids that plagued this coastline for centuries. Nerja (my favorite beach town on Spain’s south coast) is a good example of this pattern. Whereas it has almost no history and was just an insignificant fishing village until tourism hit, its more historic sister, Frigiliana, hides out in the nearby hills. The Barbary pirate raids were a constant threat. In fact, the Spanish slang for “the coast is clear” is “no hay moros en la costa” (there are no Moors on the coast). When those pirate raids finally stopped, the people of Frigiliana moved down to the coast for an easier life in what became the resort town of Nerja.
While you’ll likely hang out in Nerja, Frigiliana is a delightful white-washed hill town to explore.
Nerja, SpainFrigiliana, Spain
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Join me in this clip as I recall sleeping in a B&B in Salema, Portugal — back when life was “all sardines and sun,” and fishermen’s families doubled their income by renting rooms to travelers.
These days, websites like Airbnb have revolutionized the travel industry. Many love this service, but others believe it’s unethical. In some cities, the demand for rooms from tourists has driven up rents, forcing some of the original residents to move to less charming but more affordable neighborhoods — and changing the character of the community. You can see this in Rome (around Piazza Navona), in Amsterdam (the Jordaan district), in Barcelona (the Ramblas isn’t what it used to be) — and in many other once-vibrant and charming neighborhoods that now are just plain touristy. Many locals blame Airbnb. What are your thoughts? Let me know in the comments below, on Facebook, or on Twitter.
Here’s a new sidebar on this issue that we’re considering adding to our Rick Steves guidebooks:
The Ethics of Airbnb
Airbnb.com is becoming a dominant provider of accommodations across Europe, allowing travelers to rent rooms and apartments directly from locals.
Fans of Airbnb appreciate the feeling of being part of a real neighborhood, getting into a daily routine as “temporary Europeans.” In this way, Airbnb can facilitate genuine cultural connection more effectively than sleeping in impersonal, crank-’em-out hotels. If you’re willing to forego big-hotel amenities like a reception desk and daily cleaning, you can get much more space for your money. And, depending on the host, Airbnb can provide an opportunity to get to know a local person, while keeping your accommodations money in the community.
Critics view Airbnb as a threat to “traditional Europe.” Some believe Airbnb creates unfair, unqualified competition for well-established B&B owners…forcing some out of business. And in many cities, the lucrative Airbnb market is driving up property values beyond the reach of first-time home buyers, costing downtown neighborhoods some of their local vitality. In some places, authorities are cracking down, requiring that rental properties be occupied by the property owners for at least part of the year – and sometimes even staging disruptive “inspections” that inconvenience guests.
As an advocate for travelers, I appreciate the value and cultural intimacy Airbnb provides. But as a lover of Europe, I share the worry of those who see longtime residents and local home buyers nudged aside by tourists. In the end, each traveler has to decide whether Airbnb is right for them.
(BTW, the clip at the end of the above video is fromPortugal’s Heartland, a 2001 episode of our TV show…but it seems like it’s from a different age. Back then, tourists visiting Portuguese towns were ambushed by women offering cheap rooms — a practice that frustrated conventional hotels. Now, those women are gone, but hotels have something much more threatening to worry about: online room-sharing services.)
Allow me to share a private moment of reflection about the fun I once had with our family, here on this Algarve beach in Portugal. Sure, it’s great to be footloose and fancy-free in your travels. But, surrounded by young families and recalling family fun, I’m reminded how great it is to share those travels with kids.
Some places are more kid-friendly than others. The Algarve — before the heat and crowds of peak season — is ideal. What are some great destinations for family travel that you’ve discovered? Let me know in the comments below, on Facebook, or on Twitter.
(By the way, next week my son, Andy Steves, will be assisting a seasoned Rick Steves guide on one of our Best of Europe tours. And my daughter, Jackie, is inspiring LA high school students — through literature rather than travel — in her English classes.)
More than ever, I believe people struggling with hunger need a strong and compassionate advocate. That’s why, as a longtime Bread for the World member, I’m digging a little deeper to support their work — and I challenge you to do the same.
As I travel, I see a world filled with need but also with love, joy, and great opportunity. Together, by supporting Bread for the World, we are pressing our nation’s decision makers to sustain and strengthen programs that enable people to move out of poverty and feed their families. Thank you for joining me.
