Here you can browse through my blog posts prior to February 2022. Currently I'm sharing my travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on my mind solely on my Facebook page. — Rick

Great Guides, Pickpockets, and Haircuts in Central Europe

I’m wrapping up my time in Central Europe: Budapest, Bratislava, Vienna, Prague, and Berlin — a great itinerary. We have individual guidebooks for each of these cities (except Bratislava, which is included in both our Vienna and Budapest books). And with so much to experience in each city, keeping all of those books up to date is no easy task. But with the help of co-authors and guidebook researchers, we update each book, in person, every two years. And this year, it was my turn to take a spin through the great cities of Central Europe. Here are a few travel memories that are sticking with me.

Along the way, I got to meet lots of our happy tour groups and their wonderful guides. At my Budapest hotel, Gerlóczy, on three successive nights I got to pop in on Rick Steves Tour groups who were having dinner in the dining room. Each group was convinced that their guide — Peter, Etelka, and Katka — was the greatest guide on the Continent. For me, that’s a wonderful disagreement.

three photos of Rick Steves with three different tour guides and tour groups in the same restaurant
(clockwise from top) Tour guides Peter, Etelka, and Katka with their groups in Budapest.

A highlight for me in Vienna is dropping in on Karin and Gerhard, who have lovingly built — from nothing more than their love of the movie The Third Mana museum that tells its story, and the story of Vienna in the dark and spy-filled days after WWII. It’s only open on Saturdays and by private tour appointment…and it’s in the top ten list of things to do on TripAdvisor for Vienna. Bravo! Our tour groups enjoy a private tour of this fascinating museum.

Rick Steves with Karin and Gerhard holding a Third Man book
Karin Höfler and Gerhard Strassgschwandtner, Vienna’s Third Man Museum

In Vienna, I learned to spot pickpockets working the crowded tram system. They work in pairs and dress up as tourists, studying maps, wearing little touristy backpacks, and relieving careless tourists of their wallets all day long.

 

two people looking at a map

 

Traveling alone with four different books to update this month, I’m in a very focused state of mind. With impressive discipline (as I have a very hard time not being out and about in these amazing cities), I make sure to take time in my room to get all the new information massaged into the files for that book’s new edition. My hotel desk (strewn with “lady laptop,” maps, and notes) makes a wonderful on-the-road office.

 

laptop strewn with guidebooks and notes

 

In a few days, I’ll be meeting my TV crew in Scotland. It’s always a bit stressful to get a pre-TV shoot haircut in a land where I don’t speak the language. And hairdressers are one of those occupations where you’re likely to encounter some communication challenges. As I always say, if it’s important, have a local friend write your message on paper: “Please not short. Only a trim.”

 

rick steves and a stylist holding scissors. Rick is holding up a sign that says "Please not short. Only a trim."

 

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Video: A Joyful Lunch with Šárka at Prague Castle

I was feelin’ pretty groovy on a recent sunny afternoon in Prague. I was with one of my favorite guides, munching on a picnic lunch before jumping into Europe’s biggest castle, and it occurred to me, “I’d love to share this simple and joyful moment with my travelers.” My guide, Šárka, has helped me for many years with my Prague guidebook. She and her team of guides earn a good living giving travelers great private tours. Imagine the joy of having your own guide to bring out the magic of a city like Prague. The cost: about $30 an hour…affordable luxury.

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Video: Berlin’s Kreuzberg with a Guide

I’ve long wanted to better understand Berlin’s Kreuzberg neighborhoodtraditionally the home of many Turkish immigrants, and today gentrifying fast. Just like many Mexicans are guest laborers in the USA (doing the scut work that middle-class Americans and their kids don’t want to do), Turks have long served that “Gastarbeiter” role in the much wealthier Germany. As usual, the guest workers get the worst neighborhoods. And, in the case of the Turks here in postwar Berlin, it was “up against the Wall”…the Berlin Wall. Then, suddenly, in 1989, the Wall’s gone and Kreuzberg is free to blossom. I enjoyed a delightful afternoon with Hashim Anik, a Turkish German guide who grew up right here and has seen a lot of positive change. Join us for a little walk. I’d love to hear about any Kreuzberg experiences you’ve enjoyed.

 

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Video: The Bridge of Spies, a Party Raft, and a Keg of Good German Beer

The best side-trip from Berlin is to the adjacent city of Potsdam. While today it’s a simple commuter train ride away, during the Cold War, Potsdam and Berlin were in two different worlds: the First and the Second. And the iron Glienicke Bridge was a particularly famous link in the Iron Curtain. I was walking across the bridge, playing spy exchange (my role: the American U-2 spy plane pilot, Gary Powers), when a party raft equipped with a cool keg of beer distracted me. This was one of those times when I wish I could just be on vacation.

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Video: Prenzlauer Berg Squat — Berlin Through the Back Door

Walking down the streets of a great city like Berlin, you don’t really know what lies behind the fancy facades. Often, the front of a building hides courtyard after courtyard of a graffiti-laced world where people live in simple apartments that date back to the 19th century, built to house the workers needed to power Berlin’s Industrial Age boom. Until recently, these apartment flats were “squats,” where people with little money camped out after the fall of communism. Today they are slowly gentrifying. Their very existence invigorates my favorite Berlin neighborhood, Prenzlauer Berg, with a trendy nonconformity and creative energy.

 

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