Here you can browse through my blog posts prior to February 2022. Currently I'm sharing my travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on my mind solely on my Facebook page. — Rick

Travel Writer as Curator

I’ve been in San Francisco for a couple of days — giving talks, enjoying a bit of the Bay Area, and meeting with travel publishers and travel editors. Today was filled with philosophy about the role of a travel writer and tour guide. I’m not sure exactly what we were talking about, but it stirred my thoughts nicely.

I spent breakfast talking with Spud Hilton (travel editor of the San Francisco Chronicle). One of only about a dozen journalists in the USA still earning their income as a full-time travel editor, Spud gave me an update on the state of newspapers in our economy.

As we lamented the cost to society of traditional journalism morphing into blogs and amateur Internet postings, Spud compared “citizen journalism” to “citizen dentistry” or getting a “citizen plumber” — do we really want to dispense with the professionals in trying to understand our world through news reporting?

Spud also talked about the challenges of getting good articles for his travel section. He likes a travel story that gives a place a personality profile, written by a writer who shares his experiences there in a way that tells more about the place than the writer.

I lamented how I can do a month of really productive guidebook work and come up with almost nothing of any value for newspaper articles. Then I can go out for two days without my guidebook chores and stir up plenty of great anecdotal material for newspaper and magazine writing.

Spud said one reason he likes to run my articles in the Chronicle is that people in the Bay Area already feel like they know me. This is helpful because he figures they get up and running with me more quickly, and that enables me to establish myself in a place with fewer words. And fewer words is a plus when you have limited newspaper space.

Conventional thinking is that people go to the travel section of a newspaper to learn about good deals. Spud believes you can find countless deals online these days, and for a paper to offer something unique it needs to run finely crafted articles that take you there. We were talking about my new Travel as a Political Act book, and found that we were both dealing with the same notion that there are two fundamentally different ways to travel — the old “tourist versus traveler” thing — and that one is not necessarily right or wrong. My passion has been to inspire people to both have fun and have that broadening experience.

Spud, who landed his position in part because he’s an expert in (and a fan of) the cruise industry, also sees two kinds of travel: what he terms “discovery travel” and “leisure travel.” We agreed that these are not mutually exclusive. You can go to Mazatlán and have the leisure on the beach (with a plastic wristband giving you unlimited margaritas and a stretch of Pacific beach cleared of locals)…and then head a couple blocks inland to eat real Mexican food with locals. Then I had lunch with my publisher, and the fun conversation continued. My publisher is a futurist/visionary/travel publishing wonk — a wonderful man to collaborate with if you want your guidebooks to succeed. In analyzing the ebb and flow of various guidebook series, he was into the notion that some guidebooks are into aggregation while others are into curation (as if designed by a “curator”).

Aggregation publishers build their guidebooks by pooling all the data in a giant content bank, and then ladle out various configurations as if buying modular furniture: Would you like an L-shaped sofa? How about a guidebook to clubs and shopping in capital cities? Other guidebooks are a result of “curation” — designing, organizing, and interpreting information that works together holistically, like a body works together. Knowing what a traveler needs and what they’ve learned or experienced so far, a “curation” guidebook intuits what is helpful as the trip unfolds.

I told my publisher that I experimented this summer with letting my staff dedicate days to hotel updates, freeing up time for me to “live the books” and have the experiences in order to better shape and design this end of the information. I was thinking this might be the most valuable use of my time. He said, “Yes…curation.” (Perhaps the word is just made up…but I like it much better than aggregation.)

Then, this afternoon, I talked on the phone with my tour operations department and grappled with the challenge of guides who keep their groups very happy by aggregating the travel experiences on a tour, but aren’t curators in bringing everything together to give a big context and maximize meaning and learning by weaving together what the various local guides have shared and taught.

Whether its through newspaper articles, guidebooks, or tour experiences, we are scrambling to make the travel experience as rich and meaningful as possible.

Paola’s Arc: Many Recommended Restaurants Have a Shelf Life

I love recommending good restaurants in my guidebooks. But they seem to have a quality arc and often don’t belong in a good guidebook forever. Typically they start tentative, become stars, get lazy and greedy, and then often fall out.

Trattoria der Pallaro, one of my favorites in Rome, seems to be heading down. I visit almost every year unannounced and wander through the place talking with diners and staff and reassessing the place. It is funky, memorable, and in my 2009 visit most people there were having a wonderful experience with a quirky hostess in a memorable neighborhood setting. But now I’m getting bad reports and need to reconsider my recommendation.

Almost every place will get occassional bad feedback…but when a pattern emerges, I need to take note, even if the place is a long establshed favorite that is still generally making people happy customers. For an insight into how we deal with this phenomenon, here’s a recent thread of correspondence between our travelers using the guidebook, my managing editor (Risa), and me:

—-

Hi Rick,

Here are some recent negative reader-feedback emails concerning Trattoria der Pallaro in Rome. We talk up Pallaro quite a lot in the Rome guidebook. Should we contact Paola or reconsider our recommendation?

Risa

Forwarded Message #1:

Dear Rick,

I am a solo woman traveler, elderly, who has always used your travel guides to help along my holidays.

I was in Rome in September and went for dinner to Trattoria der Pallaro run by Paola which you recommend in your Rome guidebook. Well I had a terrible experience there and hence this letter.

The meal was OK but as I do not take coffee I asked for my check before coffee was served. Paola herself came to my table and I gave her €21 as your book stated. She asked for €25…. OK, the rates may have gone up after your book was published. So I gave her a €5 note and then she asked for €20. I told her that I had already given her this amount, but she insisted that I hadn’t…I had seen her slip it into the pocket of her apron and I said so. She then started to raise her voice and spat out a volley of words in Italian, in a loud and uncouth way. She then called a waiter who spoke no more English than she did, saying she did not understand what I was saying. I refused to pay more and she kept a loud tirade so that heads started to turn in our direction…rather embarrassing too as I had no idea what she was saying. Whatever I said fell on her deaf ears and finally I had to pay an extra €20… a meal that now cost €45 and was certainly not worth it. And at the end of all this, she did not give me my bill…an offense in Italian law. If I did not have to leave early the next morning, I would have gone to the Italian Tourist Police and lodged a complaint. Too late now. A very disturbing event. And an eating place best avoided.

Regards, Katie B

Forwarded Message #2:

Dear Rick,

I returned this week from a trip to Italy and relied heavily on your Rome guidebook. I found it helpful, up-to-date and precise in many of the details.

A major disappointment on the last night in this magnificent city propels me to write with the hope for some correction in your description of the Trattoria der Pallaro. I had dinner there with four friends and felt that it was a bad experience. My friends unanimously agree with my assessment.

The first dish of lentils was bland and uninteresting, but we still hoped for better things to arrive. Even an amateur cook could produce this easiest of dishes. Next came hard-to-chew penne (pasta al dente is good, pasta quasi cruda e altra cosa) with what must have been a weak tomato coulis mixed with either a little cream or milk. In an effort to enhance the taste, a tiny quantity of grated pecorino was on the table. Despite that, I could not finish the dish. Another complete miss was the secondo piatto, a kind of non-descript meat ragout — probably made of leftovers. In addition to the food the house wine served, I think, was acidy and reminded me of the very cheap wine I would drink in my student days three decades ago: some rather unremarkable commercial brand. Service was sloppy. To top it all off, there was a small bowl of peaches in a sugary syrup. I do not remember the other offerings in this gastronomic palette, but I am quite sure they were of the same ilk.

The package was offered at somewhat above €26, but we would have been very pleased to pay a bit more if only the quality of the meal would have been slightly higher.

We hope to continue to rely on your guides and that somehow attention will be given to this complaint.

Sincerely,

Gerald R

—-

Risa,

While just two unhappy customers, this is disconcerting and part of a trend. On my visit this spring, while most of our readers were having a blast there, I heard similar complaints and have had similar concerns with Paola getting more aggressive and taking our recommendation for granted. Send me our guidebook listing and I’ll edit it down. We should email her about this troublesome pattern, too.

Rick

Rick,

Here is the current listing in Rick Steves’ Rome: Trattoria der Pallaro, a well-worn eatery that has no menu, has a slogan: “Here, you’ll eat what we want to feed you.” Paola Fazi – with a towel wrapped around her head turban-style – and her family serve up a five-course meal of typically Roman food for €25, including wine, coffee, and a tasty mandarin juice finale. As many locals return day after day, each evening features a different menu (Tue-Sun 12:00-15:30 & 19:00-24:00, closed Mon, cash only, indoor/outdoor seating on quiet square, a block south of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, down Largo del Chiavari to Largo del Pallaro 15, tel. 06-6880-1488).

Risa

Risa,

Let’s go with this edited listing warning readers about the potentially uneven experience. This is what I should have written after this year’s visit, but my judgment was clouded by happier visits in past years and wishful thinking:

Trattoria der Pallaro, an eccentric and well-worn eatery that has no menu, has a slogan: “Here, you’ll eat what we want to feed you.” Paola Fazi – with a towel wrapped around her head turban-style – and her gang dishes up a five-course meal of bland but typically Roman food for €25, including wine and coffee, and capped with a thimble of mandarin juice. While the service is odd and the food is forgettable, the experience can be fun (Tue-Sun 12:00-15:30 & 19:00-24:00, closed Mon, cash only, indoor/outdoor seating on quiet square, a block south of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, down Largo del Chiavari to Largo del Pallaro 15, tel. 06-6880-1488).

Rick

Rick, We’ll use this for reprints and the next edition. Thanks. Sounds like Pallaro is turning into a quirky experience like the Cimbraccola in Milano (run by Stefanini, with mediocre food, pins in the map, and imaginary mama in the kitchen). This write-up better reflects the experience our readers will have. Risa

In 2010, Is an Electronic Guidebook Packing Too Light?

There’s an exciting buzz among travelers and travel publishers about electronic books replacing paper ones. For those of us in travel publishing, this is a season of digital scrambling. And users’ heads are spinning with all the new technological options: iPhone apps, books on phones, electronic books on Kindle (the Amazon electronic book reader), small books printed on command (like our popular new Snapshots series), Urbanspoon, and Yelp.

I’ve met lots of travelers in Europe enthusiastically toting Kindles. Some are obnoxiously evangelical about them. Others are not so happy. I just received this interesting email report from someone upset about traveling with an electronic “book.”

Dear Rick, We made a huge mistake. We thought we could use the Kindle version of your Venice guidebook. Wrong! We just arrived and there is no way to use it as a guidebook while traveling. It is great reading, but not convenient to use while exploring. (That is a Kindle issue.) Is there someplace in Venice that carries your guidebook? Or, is there one of your people in Venice that we can get a copy of your book from? Please help.

– Charlie and Mary

I am pretty slow in all of this. And, while determined not to be a Luddite about the demise of paper, I recently invited one of my employees (who I thought was a bit over-enthusiastic about futuristic forms of travel information) into my office, pointed to the 30 different Rick Steves guidebooks lining my windowsill, and said, “This is what we do…paper guidebooks.”

I know the publishing world is changing very fast. I just like paper guidebooks. I’ve bumped into lots of people in Europe thrilled with their Kindles. While it is a brilliant innovation and certainly the future, at this point some find the technology still clunky for guidebooks.

I’d love to hear about your own thoughts and experiences in the Comments.

Bono on Obama’s Rebranding of America

The world honors our president with its most prestigious award — the Nobel Peace Prize. And, somehow, many Americans find a way to twist it into a negative. I’m perplexed. For a decade I’ve prayed that our country could retake its position as a leader among nations. Suddenly, we’re there. The ideals of our country are shining brightly, we have a leader who is credible and respected, and our country takes a giant leap in the listing of most admired nations. My work is so impacted by how America is perceived abroad, and my patriotism has had me lamenting how the brand of America was tarnished in the last decade. I’m not alone in this concern. I spent a day on Capitol Hill last year helping Bread for the World lobby for aid for hungry people. As they needed Republican votes, they basically found out which of those Members of Congress enjoyed European travel, and had me going from office to office talking travel and segueing from there to developmental aid.

During my visits on Capitol Hill, I kept hearing two concepts: the emerging importance of “soft power” and the need to polish the tarnished “brand of America.” Republicans I met were talking about how waging “soft power” (helping people with our brains and hearts) could actually be more cost-effective for our national interest than waging “hard power” (forcing things with our muscles). And they were lamenting how the sorry state of “the brand of America” was threatening our economy.

So now we have a man who, less than a year into his presidency, is doing all he can to wage soft power and polish the brand of America.  And the world applauds us the best way it knows how, as it essentially says, “Lead us, and we will follow.” Yet our president practically needs to apologize for the honor of that award here at home. I was ready to collect my thoughts on this for a blog entry, and I stumbled on a great editorial in the New York Times by Bono dealing exactly with this topic from a European point of view. Much as I hate to give up my bully blog pulpit, I find Bono brilliant and must simply offer you his words on this timely topic. Here’s Bono:

Rebranding America (by Bono, from NY Times, Oct 18, 2009) A few years ago, I accepted a Golden Globe award by barking out an expletive. One imagines President Obama did the same when he heard about his Nobel, and not out of excitement.

When Mr. Obama takes the stage at Oslo City Hall this December, he won’t be the first sitting president to receive the peace prize, but he might be the most controversial. There’s a sense in some quarters of these not-so-United States that Norway, Europe and the World haven’t a clue about the real President Obama; instead, they fixate on a fantasy version of the president, a projection of what they hope and wish he is, and what they wish America to be.

Well, I happen to be European, and I can project with the best of them. So here’s why I think the virtual Obama is the real Obama, and why I think the man might deserve the hype. It starts with a quotation from a speech he gave at the United Nations last month: “We will support the Millennium Development Goals, and approach next year’s summit with a global plan to make them a reality. And we will set our sights on the eradication of extreme poverty in our time.” They’re not my words, they’re your president’s. If they’re not familiar, it’s because they didn’t make many headlines. But for me, these 36 words are why I believe Mr. Obama could well be a force for peace and prosperity — if the words signal action.

The millennium goals, for those of you who don’t know, are a persistent nag of a noble, global compact. They’re a set of commitments we all made nine years ago whose goal is to halve extreme poverty by 2015. Barack Obama wasn’t there in 2000, but he’s there now. Indeed he’s gone further — all the way, in fact. Halve it, he says, then end it.

Many have spoken about the need for a rebranding of America. Rebrand, restart, reboot. In my view these 36 words, alongside the administration’s approach to fighting nuclear proliferation and climate change, improving relations in the Middle East and, by the way, creating jobs and providing health care at home, are rebranding in action.

These new steps — and those 36 words — remind the world that America is not just a country but an idea, a great idea about opportunity for all and responsibility to your fellow man. All right … I don’t speak for the rest of the world. Sometimes I think I do — but as my bandmates will quickly (and loudly) point out, I don’t even speak for one small group of four musicians. But I will venture to say that in the farthest corners of the globe, the president’s words are more than a pop song people want to hear on the radio. They are lifelines.

In dangerous, clangorous times, the idea of America rings like a bell (see King, M. L., Jr., and Dylan, Bob). It hits a high note and sustains it without wearing on your nerves. (If only we all could.) This was the melody line of the Marshall Plan and it’s resonating again. Why? Because the world sees that America might just hold the keys to solving the three greatest threats we face on this planet: extreme poverty, extreme ideology and extreme climate change. The world senses that America, with renewed global support, might be better placed to defeat this axis of extremism with a new model of foreign policy.

It is a strangely unsettling feeling to realize that the largest Navy, the fastest Air Force, the fittest strike force, cannot fully protect us from the ghost that is terrorism …. Asymmetry is the key word from Kabul to Gaza …. Might is not right.

I think back to a phone call I got a couple of years ago from Gen. James Jones. At the time, he was retiring from the top job at NATO; the idea of a President Obama was a wild flight of the imagination.

General Jones was curious about the work many of us were doing in economic development, and how smarter aid — embodied in initiatives like President George W. Bush’s Emergency Program for AIDS Relief and the Millennium Challenge Corporation — was beginning to save lives and change the game for many countries. Remember, this was a moment when America couldn’t get its cigarette lighted in polite European nations like Norway; but even then, in the developing world, the United States was still seen as a positive, even transformative, presence.

In an asymmetrical war, he said, the emphasis had to be on making American foreign policy conform to that formula.

Enter Barack Obama.

If that last line still seems like a joke to you … it may not for long. Mr. Obama has put together a team of people who believe in this equation. That includes the general himself, now at the National Security Council; the vice president, a former chairman of the Senate Foreign Relations Committee; the Republican defense secretary; and a secretary of state, someone with a long record of championing the cause of women and girls living in poverty, who is now determined to revolutionize health and agriculture for the world’s poor. And it looks like the bipartisan coalition in Congress that accomplished so much in global development over the past eight years is still holding amid rancor on pretty much everything else. From a development perspective, you couldn’t dream up a better dream team to pursue peace in this way, to rebrand America.

The president said that he considered the peace prize a call to action. And in the fight against extreme poverty, it’s action, not intentions, that counts. That stirring sentence he uttered last month will ring hollow unless he returns to next year’s United Nations summit meeting with a meaningful, inclusive plan, one that gets results for the billion or more people living on less than $1 a day. Difficult. Very difficult. But doable.

The Nobel Peace Prize is the rest of the world saying, “Don’t blow it.”

But that’s not just directed at Mr. Obama. It’s directed at all of us. What the president promised was a “global plan,” not an American plan. The same is true on all the other issues that the Nobel committee cited, from nuclear disarmament to climate change — none of these things will yield to unilateral approaches. They’ll take international cooperation and American leadership. The president has set himself, and the rest of us, no small task.

That’s why America shouldn’t turn up its national nose at popularity contests. In the same week that Mr. Obama won the Nobel, the United States was ranked as the most admired country in the world, leapfrogging from seventh to the top of the Nation Brands Index survey — the biggest jump any country has ever made. Like the Nobel, this can be written off as meaningless … a measure of Mr. Obama’s celebrity (and we know what people think of celebrities).

But an America that’s tired of being the world’s policeman, and is too pinched to be the world’s philanthropist, could still be the world’s partner. And you can’t do that without being, well, loved. Here come the letters to the editor, but let me just say it: Americans are like singers — we just a little bit, kind of like to be loved. The British want to be admired; the Russians, feared; the French, envied. (The Irish, we just want to be listened to.) But the idea of America, from the very start, was supposed to be contagious enough to sweep up and enthrall the world. And it is. The world wants to believe in America again because the world needs to believe in America again. We need your ideas — your idea — at a time when the rest of the world is running out of them.

(Bono is the lead singer of the band U2 and a co-founder of the advocacy group ONE.)

Wow…Iran Wins an Award

Last year we traveled together via this blog through Iran. That experience inspired me to write my Travel as a Political Act book. And since then, my life has been enriched by lots of connections with people who care about peace with the Muslim world. For instance, two nights ago I shared a stage at Seattle’s Town Hall with Gina Salá, an amazing musician who bridges cultures in her music (www.ginasala.com) at a fundraiser for the Voices Education Project. With both music and travelogue, Gina and I helped bring the world to Seattle.

Yesterday I got a fun surprise: The Society of American Travel Writers awarded Rick Steves’ Iran with the Gold Medal in the “Special Package/Project” category. While there was a “Travel Broadcast Video” category, the Society decided to award our Iran program not just on the show itself, but on the way we used many multimedia components to engage with the viewers: our related radio interviews, newspaper columns, website, vodcasts, online discussion boards, the $5 Iran DVD for groups initiative (in which we sent the DVD to over 7,000 community groups), the printed Iran journal, and my lectures across the country. Our hope to humanize a country of 70 million people was selected for being a multimedia extravaganza! How exciting!

So many people worked very hard to make this campaign what it is. I am thankful to have such a great team to collaborate with. Here are the judges’ official comments on our project:

Category 10: Special Package/Project Gold: Rick Steves, “Rick Steves’ Iran: Yesterday and Today,” multimedia This is a gold winner for two reasons — the challenging subject and the extraordinary presentation across multiple media. Rick Steves takes us on this unusual journey with a public television special, radio program, Web site with audio, video, links and reader feedback, newspaper reports, day-by-day travel blog and color booklet.

While I generally go about my merry travel writing way without concerning myself with the world of other travel writers, I have great respect for the SATW and am honored to be recognized by them for our Iran project. Just last month, we made our Iran show into a pledge special that will be airing all over the USA this winter, giving the program new life and (we hope) further raising awareness of the struggles of good people living under a bad government.

It’s interesting to see what other awards were given to America’s many fine travel writers. Learn about this year’s awards.