Here you can browse through my blog posts prior to February 2022. Currently I'm sharing my travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on my mind solely on my Facebook page. — Rick

Teletubby Travels?

I am deep in the process of writing scripts for and setting up our 2010 TV production — five new shows in Spain, Helsinki, and Tallinn. Reminders of how our show is received keep me inspired to do better each year with our TV work. Today I’m inspired on by two very different communiqués. One is from the vice-president of our network, sharing wonky numbers of how our show was the most-watched show on Valentine’s Day in Fort Myers, Florida. (I don’t understand the numbers, either.) The other is from a parent marveling at how their infant and now child is addicted to our travel show.

 From the network:

Rick: fyi – Impressive number. This is in Ft. Myers, FLA. Rick Steves’ Europe at 10:00 pm on WGCU: 1.7/3 (2.0 daypart avg.) APT’s highest-rated show in primetime of 2/14.

From the parent:

Subject: A message from possibly one of your youngest fans (or, at least the mother of).

Dear Rick Steves,

For a decade now, my husband Chris and I have enjoyed your shows — watching them has become one of our traditions. It’s our Saturday ritual. With coffee in hand, we sit back and journey with you “as our travel partner.”

That scene has changed little over the years, but the audience has grown. Our daughter, Talley, who is five, shares the couch with us — willingly — and has so for two years now. She has grown to appreciate travel, history, and the arts — a level of interest that I believe is beyond her years. And, I think we must owe this, at least in part, to your excellent programming.

In the beginning, little Talley had no choice. Lying in my arms, she “watched” your shows with us. Later on, when the comprehension of what you were saying became a bit more challenging, the resulting rewinds, pauses, and such stretched the episodes two-fold. After fifteen minutes, she pined (and whined) for Winnie.

 Then when she was around 3½, she started requesting “Rick Steves” over Winnie the Pooh.Chris and I were in utter shock.

Whenever we suggested other travel shows, Talley would insist on Rick Steves. Once I began to notice the effect your shows were having on Talley, I did not push them as a learning tool. I continued to treat them as I always had. Watching your shows is something that we enjoy together. This unintended, yet welcome, consequence showed me that I need not dilute learning to capture Talley’s attention. Are the Rick Steves shows making her smarter? Are the shows expanding her horizons and understanding that I cannot gauge? Is this TV-time bringing us closer together as a family? I believe the answer is “yes” to all of the above.

Now when we watch one of your episodes, she tells us to be quiet. She sits between us, with Boost (defined as any beverage that includes chocolate) in hand, and watches the entire episode; asking questions on what she sees; asking to fast-forward when the music “sounds scary”; asking to rewind when people are dancing so she can dance with them; and asking us to pause when she needs more Boost. A half-hour episode still last an hour, but I find the prolongation a parenting joy.

The other day, my father-in-law recalled a conversation with Talley where she identified the Eiffel Tower in a magazine. He casually asked her several questions, not expecting to receive correct answers. The conversation went something like this: “Where is the Eiffel Tower located?” “In France.” “What city?” “Paris — and I want to go there.” “Talley, did you learn this from Little Einsteins?” “No, Rick Steves.”

I wanted to share my story with you — along with my appreciation. Please keep up the terrific work, and know that your programming affects probably more than your intended audience. We have had the fortune of enjoying one of your GAS tours recently. Hopefully, when Talley is a little older, we will make good on our promise to take her on one of your tours. And, hopefully, she will not have the expectation that you will be leading the tour!

Keep on travelin’!,

Elizabeth, Chris, and Talley

We Answer All Questions

During our annual all-staff meeting, we covered all the bases. I stressed our commitment to personal service. My staff explained how they responded to more than 20,000 emailed questions and comments. These are a few of our favorites.

Im American-Moroccan. I grew up in Morocco and I’m Muslim. I read your article about Turkey and I find it very interesting. I hope that many people could read that and understand that we all want peace in this world. P.S: I will be reading your colon as much as I can.

I will go to Ireland in August with a tour group. Where do I go to see the fairies? No, not ferries. Fairies. No, I’m not kidding. I’m reading your Ireland 2008 book, and you don’t have them listed in the index.

We will be in Paris and we will have two granchildren with us, ages 9 and 11 and are trying to find economical rooms. Four hotels referred to in your guidebooks are in French; Hotel du Champ de Mars, Hotel de Arma,Hotel de Turenne, and Hotel de la Paix. Is there a way to get the English guides?

Rick, Have you ever done a tour on the Transatlantic rail?

I am related to Oliver Cromwell and proad of it. I was wondering why you didn’t mention him in the history section of the book??? also why did you leave out Huntingdon which id where there is a museum of Oliver Cromwell. Are you being paid by the royals to write this book. Because it seems that the history section of the book of England is about all of them. We enjoyed your book of Italy and that is why I BOUGHT your book on England which I am VERY disappointed in. Any way I am sure you don’t care about a normal person complaining about how you wrote your book. The little people NEVER get heard. Thank you for your time. Sorry to have bothered you.

On a crowded train to Sienna, my daughter and I entered a compartment where a young Italian couple were seated face to face and having a very animated conversation. They passionately looked into each other’s eyes and jestured with there hands and spoke lovingly for over an hour. When they got off at their stop, I asked my daughter, who is fluent in Italian, what they were talking about, expecting her to say it was a conversation of young lovers. “Mostly, they were talking about eggplants and tomatoes” she said.

Hi, is there a reason why you almost never give us shows that tell us about the night life in all of those countries you go too? I never see you show the beautiful white girls and women, just men and old people. Please see if you can do that since some of us are more interested in the people over there then just mountains, lakes, and boring scenery.

my friend and i are going to england in july to the cotswolds… Is there a certain way i should eat there so i dont’t look like an idiot haha. like i am right handed but should i use fork in left knife in right.. and eat with fork in left?.. i remember in the video rick was at a B&B. and did his tea with milk and cream first before tea.. lol.

where can I buy the small smoke hood to carry on for protection against crash fire?

I have a child in the Air Force that is overseas and has been there for 4 years. She has been all through Europe (and Asia) X times over. Your info is pretty decent ie. like in Paris… but she has vast knowledge that you have no clue of.

As a teacher I purchased your Book in truth a paper back, Which largely stated about you self. We Don’t care about you Sir It is not at all as represented. The Title is misleading Deceptive . The Paper back is a piece of junk. You Sir ARE NOT An unusually Gifted any thing Your Europe is you labeled Europe through the back door fails also . As to your travels with back it lacks relevancy. send me my money back include all postage and handling, and I’ll send you your worthless paper back. What a fraud.

Poetically Charged Guidebooks

We just enjoyed our annual meeting with our publisher, Avalon Travel. They flew to Seattle this time, and twenty of us sat around our conference room table for most of the day getting up-to-date on our guidebook work. I’m thankful to have a publisher I’ve been friends with for 15 years with a staff that works well and closely with mine. We’re all enthusiastic about the mission of our teaching. And when we get together, either in Seattle or in Berkeley, we break from the huddle ready to make our guidebooks better and more efficiently than ever. We know Europe, and Avalon knows publishing.

The two most quotable quotes of the day from our publisher:

“Our sales are up, but that’s to a great degree because Europe guidebook sales were down the most in the economic crisis last year.”

“How you’ve grown without being aware of what others are doing is truly remarkable.”

We used to brag, “Don’t be fooled by overweight guidebooks” — celebrating that our books were light and easy to pack. Now most of our editions have put on weight and come in at 600 to 900 pages. We asked if this was a concern. Our publisher replied, “No. As long as your books are lean, crystal clear, and poetically charged, more is more.” (Though he did admit that our page count — combined with our priority to keep the books portable — is “pressing the limits of modern printing technology”).

While everything used to hinge on annual updates, now we update with nearly every printing whether it’s a “new edition” or not — so the actual new edition is less important. We are “constantly updated.” This means that some of our biannuals (the lesser-selling half of our books, which are undated and come out in “new editions” only every two years) are actually updated more often than every other year — just without a new cover. Not having a date on the cover is a plus for bookstores because they don’t need to clear the shelves each 12 months. So with “constantly updated,” we get the best of both worlds: shelf space and updated content. The biannuals are selling as well as they would if they had dates on the cover, it’s more efficient for the retailers, and we sneak in our updates between new editions when we reprint the book.

 New printing technology makes it easy to make small but efficient print runs, enabling us to publish shorter and much less expensive guidebook excerpts we call “Snapshots” (for example, Norway, Stockholm, and Denmark, which are derived from our bigger Scandinavia book). This allows readers to buy just the destinations they want. It also takes the pressure off us to address the market demand for these regions, and it lets us test-market destinations to see where a full-fledged guidebook would be justified. Of our twenty-some Snapshot titles, Barcelona is a top seller. That indicates that, if we were to publish another full-fledged guidebook, it should be Barcelona.

Traditionally, my publisher is always pushing for more new titles. But now he’s satisfied that we’ve covered Europe pretty well. The one thing we’re missing is “pocket guides.” Our competition is selling lots of these smaller trim, full-color, distilled versions of standard guidebooks. Until now, we’ve given them a free ride. In 2011, we will get into that game.

 Our sales are pretty good. We’re in the top tier (Frommer, Fodor’s, DK, Lonely Planet, Rick Steves — in no particular order), and the top tier leaves everyone else in the dust. Out of every 100 books we sell, 82 are sold in the USA, 9 in Canada, 5 in Europe, and 4 everywhere else. Everyone’s excited about electronic books, iPhone apps, and digital publishing — but it’s still only 3% of our total sales revenue. Both my publisher and I are encouraging our staffs to keep our eyes on the prize: printed-on-paper guidebooks.

With our phrase books, we took on Berlitz and won (outselling them in bookstores). With our journal, we took on Moleskine and lost. We designed a cool journal in two sizes, but it just doesn’t sell. I think it’s overpriced, and encouraged my publisher to go wild in reconsidering their pricing. Stay tuned.

The big stress in the book business is how to adapt royalties and author payments to electronic books. Amazon and Apple are jockeying to lock up the electronic sales. Map sales are going to hell in a handbag — hit much harder than guidebooks by Internet alternatives (Google Maps and GPS). The American Booksellers Convention is not the vibrant thing it used to be.

The thirtieth anniversary of my first edition of Europe Through the Back Door is this May. We’ll have a little party.

Door Number Three for Haiti

Last week we put up and took down the following article because USA Today agreed to run it as an editorial. (Newspapers understandably like to have exclusivity until they run something.) They ran it yesterday, so we’ve put it back up.

I’ve also included the way it ran in USA Today to share the frustration writers have with word counts. My blog entry was 1,100 words, and the USA Today version about half that — 580 words. I’m thankful USA Today ran my piece and think they did a fine job of making it fit both physically and stylistically. But you can see the toll cutting the article back takes on its wholeness. Extra words give context, color, transitions, and a smooth flow of ideas. Newspapers have limited space. Plus, of course, my blog entry needed to read a little more mature for a national paper (and without the provocative title). The gist of my entry: aid’s nice…but deal honestly with the First World-imposed structural foundations of Haiti’s misery. In a move in that direction, just this week the US government has proposed forgiving Haiti’s international debt.

(If you click to the actual USA Today article, note how cool the hotlinks are to topics raised. And then read some of the comments. If you’re impressed by the intelligence of some of our legislators, these people are the electoral soil from where they grow.)

No Aid to Haiti (original blog entry) On Conan O’Brien’s final Tonight Show last week, he said, “Don’t be cynical. Cynicism is my least favorite trait.” I don’t want to be cynical. It’s not constructive. But on that spectrum between frustrated and cynical, I’m not in a very good place right now.

Just hours before that show, the four big networks joined together to broadcast a telethon to raise emergency aid for Haiti. America cares. We’re coming to the rescue. When people are in need, it brings out the best in the American people — regardless of our politics, we are united in support. Locally, my church is collecting “health kits for Haiti.” There’s a button on its website to help raise money. I’m inspired by the outpouring of goodwill. It’s good and necessary and motivated by love.

But at the same time, I’m troubled that no one seems to be asking why Haiti is so wretchedly poor to begin with — so poor that even their presidential palace can be toppled by an earthquake. As soon as the passion of this moment fades, the US government will continue contributing to repressive trade policies that keep places like Haiti impoverished. Am I the only one disillusioned…concerned that almost nobody — especially those in our media or government — is talking about this?

Charity is good. It helps people. It feels good. It’s easy to do, and easy to understand. But addressing the roots of structural poverty is the real challenge. A Toys for Tots-type organization collecting toys (“new and in their original packaging please”) brings cheer to poor kids who might not otherwise have a happy Christmas. And while caring people head to the mall with a longer shopping list, our society scuttles an opportunity to help those same families not to be impoverished by health care expenses. Again: simple charity…structural poverty.

During tough economic times or when dealing with the human suffering caused by natural disasters at home or abroad, each of us is confronted with a personal choice. You can: ignore; respond; or ask why, learn, and act to address the root of problem. Most good people take door #2. It’s human nature.

Nobody wants to open door #3. But we must. For example, seismic safety is a luxury only the privileged can afford. While the numbers aren’t in yet on Haiti’s quake, in 2001 a similar quake hit El Salvador and left nearly a quarter of the country (1.5 million people) homeless. (2001 was a momentous year for the USA, but imagine…a quarter of your country homeless.) An earthquake of the same magnitude hit my hometown that same year, and no one died. I was at work in our new-at-the-time building and remember riding it out like a hobby horse (suddenly thankful for the code requirements that made me spend extra for construction that could withstand such a quake). The best those living in a Haitian shantytown can afford for earthquake protection is to live in what’s called “miniskirt housing” — cinderblocks for the lower half of the wall, and light corrugated tin for the upper walls and roof. When a miniskirt house tumbles down, at least it won’t kill you.

We can blame Haiti’s squalor on voodoo, on its heritage of slavery, on corruption, on the fact that its main export is topsoil (in a treeless land, each rainstorm flushes precious soil into the sea), or on many other factors. But we must also look at American and European trade policies that help keep nations like Haiti underdeveloped — tariffs that help keep them “banana republics.”

A banana republic is a poor land whose economy is dominated by the export of its leading natural resource. It’s subjugated by First World trade policies that allow it to export raw materials but not finished products. Higher tariffs for processed goods make it nearly impossible to export anything but cheap raw materials to the already-developed world competitively. Put simply, Haiti can export raw sugar but not candy. Ghana can export cocoa but not chocolate bars. Honduras can export peanuts but not peanut butter. Compounding that are subsidies for American agricultural products. Haiti would love to compete fairly for the American market with its sugar, rice, and textiles, but tariffs and subsidies created by our government (to protect you and me) make it impossible. In Haiti, you’ll see fields that once grew rice now left unplanted. And across the street, a shack sells rice grown in the USA.

That is an example of structural poverty put upon countless millions of people, in part by the trade policies of the wealthy world. Sure, it may be good business for us in the short term. But having squalor south of our border may not be in even the greediest American’s self-interest in the long term.

The most widely used term for poor countries these days is “the Developing World.” But I find that label ironic, since so many First World economic policies systematically and actively keep places like Haiti underdeveloped. (The chapter on El Salvador in my Travel as a Political Act book explains this more thoroughly.)

OK, I guess I am cynical. (I think that feeling’s stoked by the growing power of corporations to shape policies that impact real people — like the Haitians our hearts will go out to for next week or so. Even before everyone was dug out of the rubble that was once Port au Prince, the US Supreme Court gave American corporations the constitutional right to be protected as individuals. That means they have the right to buy our government in the name of “free speech.” I fear our “democracy” is fast becoming one with a government still “by, for, and of the people” — but via the corporations we own. And, as that happens, why would our government ever reconsider these trade policies?)

Give aid or deal with the roots of the problem? That’s the question. Mother Teresa inspired us to feed the poor. Like everyone else, I loved her. El Salvador’s Archbishop Oscar Romero asked what were the roots of his nation’s poverty. He was shot. Today, my pastor worked a slide show on Haiti into his sermon: a series of horrific scenes of squalor. The last frame read: “Haiti before the earthquake.”

On my last trip south of our border, I heard a local troubadour sing: “It’s not easy to see God in the orphan child who cleans the windshields at a traffic light…but we must.” So what do we do? I’m not sure. We can ask ourselves how costly it would be for the US to allow free trade so poor countries can compete with us.

We can learn more about these issues. And we can support Bread for the World — see www.bread.org — which lobbies courageously, effectively, and against great odds for friendlier trade policies for people like the Haitians.

Here’s how the same piece ran in USA Today:

Haiti: Behind Door No. 3, difficult questions await

When people are in need, it brings out the best in Americans. But at the same time, no one seems to be asking why Haiti had become so wretchedly poor to begin with — before the earthquake awakened the world. And as soon as the passion of this moment fades, the U.S. government, and others, will continue pursuing repressive trade policies that help keep places like Haiti poor.

When dealing with human suffering, each of us is confronted with a personal choice. You can (1) ignore; (2) respond; or (3) ask why, learn and act to address the roots of the problem. Most good people take Door No. 2. Charity is easy to do, easy to understand and easy to feel good about. It genuinely helps people in need. Meanwhile, few want to open Door No. 3. But we must. Addressing the roots of structural poverty is more challenging, but ultimately can be more effective.

We can blame Haiti’s chronic poverty on its heritage of slavery, on corruption, or on the fact that its main “export” is topsoil (in a treeless land, each rainstorm flushes precious soil into the sea). But we must also examine global trade policies that help keep nations like Haiti “banana republics,” poor lands whose economies are often dominated by the export of their leading natural resource. These countries are subjugated by First World trade policies that allow them to export raw materials, but not finished products.

Historically, higher tariffs on processed goods make it nearly impossible for less-developed countries to export anything truly profitable. Put simply, Haiti can export raw sugar but not candy. Ghana can export cocoa but not chocolate bars. Countries in Latin America can export peanuts but not peanut butter.

Domestic subsidies for U.S. agricultural products also hamper development in poor nations. Haiti would love to compete fairly for the U.S. market with its sugar, rice and textiles, but tariffs and subsidies (to protect American businesses) make it almost impossible. In Haiti, fields that once grew rice sit unplanted. And across the street, a shack sells rice grown in the USA.

Having desperately needy people south of our border is in no American’s self-interest. For one thing, these policies contribute to a dilapidated status quo that amplifies the impact of natural disasters, which demand a costly international response.

And so, as Americans choose Door No. 2 (respond), let’s also peek behind Door No. 3, which requires long-term thinking. While signing your Haiti charity check, ask how costly it would be for the U.S. to allow free trade so that poor countries could fairly compete with us. Make a point to learn about the economics of structural poverty. And then support organizations that advocate for the nations kept down by First World debt, subsidies and tariffs. For example, Bread for the World lobbies effectively for friendlier global trade policies. On my last trip south of our border, I heard a local troubadour sing: “It’s not easy to see God in the child who cleans the windshields at a traffic light … but we must.” We have all been moved by images of people whose lives have been ripped apart in Haiti. Now let’s try to empathize with how grindingly difficult those lives were in the days, months and years before that disaster.

At my church service last Sunday, my pastor showed us a slide show of horrific scenes of squalor. The last frame read: “Haiti before the earthquake.”

“Friend Me” — Bulgarian Style

A decade ago, while filming the “Surprising Bulgaria” show for my TV series, I met Lyuba Boyanin in Sofia. She was assigned to our crew by her country’s tourist board. She and I clicked, and I knew we’d someday work together. (But back then, Bulgaria wasn’t quite ready for prime time as a tour destination.)

Now, for 2010, we’ve added Bulgaria to our tour program, with Lyuba as our guide. It’ll be our worst seller — and that’s fine with me. I love Bulgaria, and it will be fun partnering with an enthusiastic local to introduce travelers to this southeast European enigma.

As a follow-up to the annual tour alum reunion and guides summit we had here in January, I got a thank-you letter from Lyuba, written after she returned home from her first visit to the USA. The wide-eyed enthusiasm of her letter (with all its fun little language quirks) charmed me and reminded me how rewarding it is to work with travelers on both sides of the Atlantic.

Dear Rick,

I am finally back to Sofia and do not believe that everything what was happened was real.

Visit to Edmonds change me a lot — now I am feeling as member of great family. Like the World is different now. Like I am not anymore alone but with so many new “relatives” and friends. Thank you very much for your hospitality and friendship. Everything we did in Edmonds was so interesting and important for me, but the warm relationship make me to feel very comfortable and to be proud to be a member of your team. Hope we will have successful many more new trips to Bulgaria in the near future and our Bulgarian crew will be bigger and bigger soon (maybe one day at least as big as the Turks!).

My visit was very fruitful and good for the work. Now I am familiar with American style of life, habits, breakfast, pizza, McDonalds, restaurants, museums, tours… This will make me a better guide.

And I received a lot of help from colleagues from your office and Rick Steves’ guides. Looks like the baby (our dream that started so long ago to make tours together) has been really born! Thank you so much making my opportunity to be part of your family real. I have not a patience to start the trips to Bulgaria soon.

It will be great if you come here again to make a new show on Bulgaria and its people. This year in August (6-8) we are going to have big authentic folk festival, which is one of the unique festivals of Europe with over 10 000 participants from villages all around Bulgaria.

When you come to visit here we can do American Eve trying to prepare ribs and other food I have tasted in Edmonds. The Rick Steves Cooking book is still missing.

Have a good and successful day and let’s hope this year marks great success for the tours. Think always white not black.

With love and many hugs to you and all the Rick Steves Crew!

Lyuba