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Rick Steves’ Travel Blog

Here you can browse through my blog posts prior to February 2022. Currently I'm sharing my travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on my mind solely on my Facebook page. — Rick

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Cherry Blossoms and a Nudge from FDR

Yesterday I was walking around the Tidal Basin to celebrate the arrival of the cherry blossoms while visiting my daughter Jackie in Washington DC. We popped into the FDR Memorial, and I was blindsided by how it inspired me.

Aware of all the rancor lately in our capital city, I lost myself in the natural and thought-provoking space the four outdoor rooms of the FDR Memorial. It was a misty morning. While this memorial lacked the grandiose feel of the nearby Jefferson Memorial, the Roosevelt Memorial swept me away: Heavy stones, cascading waterfalls (the challenge of troubled waters, and then life and hope), tangled vines, bronze statues of salt-of-the-earth people bearing hard times, and memories of a great statesman who inspired a nation to be both strong and civilized.

Depression, war, and fear gripped our nation then as it does now. And Roosevelt, rather than using more fear and scapegoats, reminded us that “We have nothing to fear but fear itself.” With his leadership and New Deal, he appealed to our higher nature to inspire greatness in our citizenry. The quotes chipped into the rustic stone walls on the misty stroll struck me. Their wisdom seemed both timeless and timely. And with the perspective provided by the passage of a little time, the way our country’s “Greatest Generation” responded then gave me hope that we can still make FDR proud. Let these quotes take you on a 2010 walk with FDR, as they did me:

“The test of our progress is not whether we add more to the abundance of those who have much, it is whether we provide enough for those who have too little.”

“In these days of difficulty, we Americans everywhere must and shall choose the path of social justice, the path of faith, the path of hope, and the path of love toward our fellow men.” —From a campaign address, Detroit, Michigan, October 2, 1932

“Men and nature must work hand in hand. The throwing out of balance of the resources of nature throws out of balance also the lives of men.” —From a Message to Congress on the Use of Our Natural Resources, Washington DC, January 24, 1935

“I propose to create a Civilian Conservation Corps to be used in simple work; more important, however, than the material gains will be the moral and spiritual value of such work.” —From a Message to Congress on Unemployment Relief, Washington DC, March 21, 1933

“I have seen war. I have seen war on land and sea. I have seen blood running from the wounded. I have seen the dead in the mud. I have seen cities destroyed. I have seen children starving. I have seen the agony of mothers and wives. I hate war.” —From an address at Chautauqua, NY, August 14, 1936

“More than an end to war, we want an end to the beginnings of all wars.” —From an undelivered address prepared for Jefferson Day to be delivered April 13, 1945

“Unless the peace that follows recognizes that the whole world is one neighborhood and does justice to the whole human race, the germs of another world war will remain as a constant threat to mankind.” —From an address to White House Correspondents’ Association, Washington DC, February 12, 1943

Travel—whether abroad our in our own country—roughs up the surface of our outlook so lessons stick better. I’m so glad Jackie studies in Washington DC so, together, we get to explore our nation’s capital.

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Help! Prostitutes Have Taken Over TV News

In the last year, I have stopped watching TV news and the Sunday morning talking-heads shows. I now get my news from various newspapers and magazines online (and Jon Stewart). Of course, like most people, I gravitate to news sources that affirm my core beliefs. We all like to feel like we “get it.” The good news is that I probably spend six hours a week less time getting my “news.” My challenge: to break out of the idea incest so many of us suffer from when we choose our news sources.

A year ago, I had a hunch that there would be more demands on my time than ever, and that the political discussions on TV would be less productive than ever. (How many hours have you dedicated to following the health care “debate” in the last year? And, looking back, what did that earn you?) And I also had a strong feeling that the shapers of public opinion were corrupt — men and women who were selling their souls to get on the air or keep their advertisers happy, or worse, were actually secretly paid consultants of corporations with an agenda. Then, recently, in The Nation (an admittedly very liberal magazine, March 1, 2010 issue), I read Sebastian Jones’ article “The Media-Lobbying Complex.” Here’s an excerpt:

President Obama spent a day touring Allentown, Pennsylvania, meeting with local workers and discussing the economic crisis. A few hours later, Pennsylvania’s former governor, Tom Ridge, was on MSNBC’s Hardball with Chris Matthews, offering up his own recovery plan. He said, “The real answer for the White House is for the president to take his green agenda and blow it out of the box.” The first step, Ridge explained, was to “create nuclear power plants.” This was an “innovation setter” that would “create jobs and create exports.” While Ridge was presented as and sounded like an objective commentator, TV viewers weren’t told that in the last five years he’s received over half a million dollars serving on the board of Exelon, the nation’s largest nuclear power company (or that he owns a quarter million dollars of their stock). I believe marketers at Exelon gave him those talking points.

Moments earlier, on the same show, retired general and “NBC Military Analyst” Barry McCaffrey told viewers that the war in Afghanistan would require an additional “three- to ten-year effort” and “a lot of money.” He’s the perfect on-air package combining the credibility and service history of a US general with the likability of a caring grandpa. I wanted to like him and believe him. And for years I have. But MSNBC neglected to tell viewers that McCaffrey, their “military analyst,” was paid nearly $200,000 this year alone by DynCorp. Our government had just granted DynCorp a five-year $6 billion deal to supply American forces in Afghanistan. The first year is locked in at $644 million, but the additional four options are subject to renewal, contingent on military needs and political realities. And a man who served his country with such nobility is now selling his soul by using his credibility to get in on the easy money lavished on our military by promoting his benefactor on air in the guise of news analysis. DynCorp gives McCaffrey his talking points and, encouraged by a fawning “news anchor,” a naïve populace believes him. People die, debt grows, and some get wealthy.

In a single hour, two men with blatant, undisclosed conflicts of interest had appeared on MSNBC.

For years, like most of the American public, I let consultants like these shape my opinion about important issues like war and energy. All news in America (even PBS news) is a mix of news, entertainment, and propaganda. We can’t hope for CNN, MSNBC, or Fox News to provide serious journalism. But we can hope that Americans understand how corporate interests shape the political discourse in our nation these days.

By simply no longer watching, I find there’s less political noise in my world and more time to simply live. And I don’t even miss the talking heads I once thought were a plus in my life. (My practical time-saving tip: I get my news at stray, otherwise wasted moments throughout the day from my iPhone apps.)

How does a conservative or liberal get news that challenges rather than affirms their beliefs? As a traveler, I went to El Salvador three times — both during and after their civil war — to get a handle on that complicated struggle. I went to Iran to understand the mindset of the people who elected their president. I toured the medical marijuana dispensaries in Oakland to understand that situation; I followed up that trip by spending a day at a (drug company-sponsored) convention of doctors and pharmacists learning about the addictive qualities of cannabis; and then I took Seattle’s top narcotics cop out for dinner. I went to Tijuana when headlines told of beheadings there in the drug wars. And I went to Shanghai to feel the energy of the new Chinese economic power. I even went to Papua New Guinea to see if modern Christian mission work had progressed beyond “bras and Bibles.” Sure, you can learn lots by going on “field trips.” But trips like these are both time- and money-consuming.

Way back in 1973, I took a high school elective class called “Understanding the Media.” Today, understanding the media would be considered subversive and certainly not worthy of public school curriculum. But we can share insights and tips with each other. How can we use the media to better understand what the heck’s going on? After all…that’s what the news media is for.

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Miscommunication at the British Museum

I just have to share an email that creates a fun image (sent to my office from Sheryl in Marysville, Washington):

My husband, Scott, and I went to England in 2004 during a heat wave. We were in a sweaty crowd wherever we went. At the British Museum, Scott went to the men’s room. I sat down to wait, and I realized I was sitting next to travel guru Rick Steves, who’s from my home state, so I had a conversation with him. When Scott returned, I pointed and mouthed, “Rick Steves!” Scott just nodded, and we walked away. His lack of reaction surprised me, but I let it go. Back home, we were showing our neighbors pictures of our trip, and I said, “This is where I sat next to Rick Steves.” Scott asked, “When did you see Rick Steves?” I reminded him of the moment at the museum, and he said, “I thought you were saying, ‘He stinks!'”

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Popes with Syphilis

I’ve just been working on a big magazine project and find that many of my jokes have been censored by editors. These jokes aren’t rude or crude, but they just keep readers on their toes and give things a little edge. I like historic jokes that both shine a light on a sightseeing topic and tickle your bone (the funny one). But I’m not sure where the line is.

For instance, in centuries past, lots of popes died of syphilis. Because they claimed to be celibate, would it be OK to call the disease that brought them down the “immaculate infection”?

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2010 Travel Tips (Part 5 of 5): Peace in Bosnia, Estonian Fun, Buoyancy in Venice

It’s fun to think of special ways to really connect with Back Door destinations we recommend in Europe. If you’re heading for these favorites, here are a few tips to do it right.

Mostar — A must-see town when visiting the former Yugoslavia, just a three-hour drive from Dubrovnik
Local guides give intimate insight into the war and its aftermath and are inexpensive for the service they provide.

While a major road links Mostar with Dubrovnik and the coast, taking the rugged-but-scenic backcountry route through Serbian Herzegovina (Dubrovnik-Trebinje-Nevesinje-Mostar) is far more interesting.

Since six young villagers had a vision of the Virgin Mary in 1981, more than 30 million Roman Catholics have turned the farm hamlet of Medjugorje (just south of Mostar) into a thriving pilgrimage center.

Bistro Verona sits along the bombed-out but increasingly revitalized Boulevard, Mostar’s former front line. While as charming as a strip-mall diner, it’s a chance to eat dinner surrounded by a humble, friendly, and perfectly authentic scene without a hint of tourism.

Tallinn — Spice up your Scandinavian itinerary, just a two-hour boat crossing from Helsinki
For the best information, skip the official tourist office and use the student-run “Travelers’ Tent” just across the street. This creative service offers cheap tours, bike rentals, and candid insider tips you’d never get elsewhere.

Ever since communist times — when private enterprise was risky — local women have supplemented their family income by selling handmade knitwear at the “Sweater Wall.” They still do.

While hotels are no bargain in Tallinn, staying with locals is. The Rasastra Bed & Breakfast agency, run by Urve Susi, provides a wonderful referral service (www.bedbreakfast.ee).

Venice — One of the most popular and visited cities in Europe, it’s also a challenge to do smartly
To cross the Grand Canal like a local, ride the traghetto. Good maps locate the handful of these gondola crossings that save you lots of needless walking, provide a very cheap memory, and leave you feeling pretty savvy.

Take advantage of the free Rick Steves’ audio tour of the Grand Canal. Just grab a front seat on the vaporetto at the train station or car park, sit back, and enjoy the cruise with full narration.

St. Mark’s Basilica comes with a notoriously long line — and no one is let in with large bags. Those checking their bag at the nearby Ateneo San Basso (a free service in a former church a block from the basilica) use their claim check to enter St. Mark’s directly without waiting in the normal line.

The Doge’s Palace is also plagued by long lines. These lines are not for entry, but to buy a San Marco Museum Plus Pass to get in. Buy your pass instead at the nearby Correr Museum (where there’s never a line) and walk directly into the Doge’s Palace.