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Rick Steves’ Travel Blog

Here you can browse through my blog posts prior to February 2022. Currently I'm sharing my travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on my mind solely on my Facebook page. — Rick

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Amsterdam: “When a Dog Takes a Dump, We Have a New Mountain”

Nike Padalino

After years of reshuffling and rebuilding, Amsterdam is coming together — and 2013 is shaping up to be a big year for finally completing ambitious projects. On the day of my visit, newspapers reported that the curator of the Rijksmuseum had just been given the keys to his museum by the construction boss. Dutch art lovers are thrilled that in April of 2013, the new, much-improved Rijksmuseum will reopen.

As of September 24, 2012, the Van Gogh Museum will close. The top 75 Van Gogh masterpieces will be on display in the more central Hermitage Amsterdam museum until late April of 2013, when the Van Gogh Museum will reopen to kick off its 40th birthday celebration.

About 1.5 million people tour the Van Gogh Museum annually. Many of them visit on hallucinogenic mushrooms (sold at street-corner “smartshops”). But a 2008 law now prohibits selling ‘shrooms. So now, instead, the smartshops sell hallucinogenic truffles (technically not “mushrooms” because they grow underground)…and those wanting to trip out on Vincent do so on ‘ruffles.

Along with the reopening of the refurbished Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam’s many characteristic canals will get in on the 2013 action. Next year they’ll be celebrating their 400th birthday, with concerts, swimming, skating, and even fashion catwalks.

As usual, I picked up a bike for my entire stay in Amsterdam. The city is a delight on two wheels. The clerk at the bike-rental shop explained why they don’t carry mountain bikes in this very flat country: “Mountain bikes in the Netherlands make no sense at all. When a dog takes a dump, we have a new mountain.”

There are not many museums in Europe that are the creation of a single person, who personally guides every visitor through. Nike Padalino created “Electric Ladyland: The First Museum of Florescent Art,” filling it with samples and artifacts both historic (florescent crayons used by California church groups in the 1950s) and natural (glow-in-the-dark stones scavenged from high in the Himalayas). Nick even gave himself a tattoo that is invisible until you shine a blacklight on it.

While there’s lots of news for travelers in Amsterdam, one thing that’s changed very little is the energy of the crowds that throb all along the city’s main drag, Damrak.

Ports like Amsterdam and Hamburg are seeing a big spike in cruise business. As throughout Europe, cruising is on the rise.
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My First Time in Hamburg

Enjoying my first-ever visit to Hamburg, I thought of great “second cities”: Marseille, Glasgow, Porto, Barcelona. Hamburg has a real feel and edgy charm, and an honest grip on where it came from and where it’s going. I can hardly wait to return with my TV crew.

Hamburg — with its important port — was hit hard in World War II. But today, about the only reminder I saw of the war was this bunker in a park. Too thick to bother tearing down, it has been painted and converted into a climbing wall.

The most impressive sightseeing experience of my entire trip so far has been this harbor cruise, with a jaw-dropping look at Hamburg’s mighty port.

The old warehouse district of Hamburg gives a strong sense of the vastness of what was Germany’s only major seaport in the early Industrial Age.

Hamburg’s former docklands — like London’s, Barcelona’s, Oslo’s, and so many others — is being gentrified. As the city reclaims what was once a wasteland in Europe’s biggest urban development project, HafenCity, it’ll become 40 percent bigger. And the centerpiece of the development: the Elbphilharmonie concert hall.

Hamburg’s Reeperbahn, its tawdry red light sailors’ quarter, is shrinking in a rising tide of affluence. So many people know the city for this zone (and for the fact that the Beatles got their start here). The Beatlemania Museum closed just last month. And the red light district feels barricaded within one small block, defined by the metal modesty walls erected during Hitler’s rule. Back then, German society didn’t admit to having such districts, but an exception was made for its hardworking and heroic (if horny) sailors on shore leave.
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Traveling in Germany, Rail Is Still the Way to Go

German trains are slick as can be. With a Eurail pass, I’m going first class. Packing light, I toss my bag onto the rack, pop open my laptop, burrow down into my writing, and before I know it, I’m in the next city. The trains are clean, sleek, comfortable, and on time. The old clackity-clackity rhythm of the rails is no longer there as it’s a nearly silent swoosh. On line schedule sites take all the guesswork out of departure options and times. And, across Europe, it seems train stations are remodeled and gleaming shopping malls—as slick and commercial as American airports.

 

 

 

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In Memory of a Dear Friend: Rick Steves’ Iran DVD for $5 donation

One of the most challenging, enjoyable, and rewarding projects of my career was producing Rick Steves’ Iran for public television a few years ago. This project wouldn’t have been possible (or anywhere near as successful and effective) without the passion and partnership of Abdi Sami. Through the filming process, Abdi (our lead man, guide, and co-producer) endeared himself to all on our crew.
Last month we lost our dear friend and colleague to cancer. He lived his death with the same love, positive spirit, and grace that he lived his too-short life.
In memory of this talented man who courageously promoted the cause of peace between Iran and the USA, I’d like to make the DVD of the hour-long show available to my blog friends for only $5 (plus shipping). I’ll donate 100% of the proceeds to the Seattle Chapter of the United Nations Association, a non-profit close to Abdi’s heart. With each DVD, I’ll also toss in a copy of my 48-page Iran Journal — a colorfully illustrated, behind-the-scenes account of our filming experience in Iran. (The special is also available to stream for free online at Hulu.com)

Please spread the word. You and your friends can each buy up to two DVD/journal sets and help an important cause, through this link only (not via my website), until 5:00 p.m. PT., Wednesday, July 25th.

Regular shipping fees apply. Please allow two weeks for delivery via US Post.

If the shopping cart is slow, just check back later.

Thanks to all of you. And thanks to Abdi, whose life and work continue to inspire us.