Here you can browse through my blog posts prior to February 2022. Currently I'm sharing my travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on my mind solely on my Facebook page. — Rick

Pondering Fascism in 1930s Europe

Robert Kennedy Jr. wrote these words in 2003:

“Corporate capitalists do not want free markets, they want dependable profits, and their surest route is to crush competition by controlling government. The rise of fascism across Europe in the 1930s offers many informative lessons on how corporate power can undermine a democracy. In Spain, Germany and Italy, industrialists allied themselves with right-wing leaders who used the provocation of terrorist attacks, continual wars, and invocations of patriotism and homeland security to tame the press, muzzle criticism by opponents and turn government over to corporate control. Those governments tapped industrial executives to run ministries and poured government money into corporate coffers with lucrative contracts to prosecute wars and build infrastructure. They encouraged friendly corporations to swallow media outlets, and they enriched the wealthiest classes, privatized the commons and pared down constitutional rights, creating short-term prosperity through pollution-based profits and constant wars.”

I’ve been aching to make a TV special studying the story of Fascism in Europe during the 20th century. Now that our latest series is finished, I need to huddle with my crew and decide what we’ll produce next. Stumbling upon this quote got me thinking of lacing all the Nazi, Fascist, Holocaust, WWII, and Neo-Nazi sites together into an hour in hopes that we can learn from those difficult times… and never go there again.

Hitler's Eagle's Nest

Congratulations, Europe, on Winning the Nobel Peace Price

To all my European friends–from Portugal to Germany to Finland, and from Bulgaria to Slovenia to Ireland–I’d just like to say: Nice job!

Today the Nobel Committee awarded its prestigious top prize to 500 million people who have, for the last 65 years, made a conscious decision to live together in peace and harmony: the European Union (EU). In the words of Nobel Committee Chairman Thorbjoern Jagland, “The Norwegian Nobel Committee wishes to focus on what it sees as the EU’s most important result, the successful struggle for peace and reconciliation and for democracy and human rights. The stabilizing part played by the EU has helped to transform most of Europe from a continent of war to a continent of peace.”

Who could possibly be more deserving of a peace prize? When your grandparents were kids, Europe had been wracked by 500 years of virtually uninterrupted warfare. Today Europeans are mocked for their pacifistic ways. Wow. What a transformation.

In my 2009 book Travel as a Political Act, I wrote:

For the EU’s founders, money took a backseat to their primary motivation: peace. Even the biggest Euroskeptic recognizes that, in weaving together the economies of former enemies like France and Germany, everyone has become so interconnected that Europe will never again suffer devastation from a major war as they did twice in the last century. The French and the Germans still don’t agree on most things. But now they’ve become too financially interdependent to take up arms over their differences. Minimizing the possibility of an intra-European war is the triumph of the EU.

When boots do hit the ground in a war, Europeans believe it’s because they have failed to prevent it. They prefer endless diplomacy to once-in-a-while war. Europe’s reluctance to go to war frustrates some Americans. I believe their relative pacifism is because Europeans know the reality of war, while most Americans do not. Of course, if you have a loved one who has fought or died in Iraq, Afghanistan, or Vietnam, you know what a war is. But as a society, the US can’t remember actually hosting a war. Europeans have told me that they believe Americans were more willing to use cluster bombs and napalm to pacify Fallujah because in the age of modern warfare, no American city has ever been wiped from existence like Coventry, Dresden, Rotterdam, or Warsaw. It’s easier to feel detached when a war is something you watch on the nightly news, rather than something that killed your grandfather or destroyed your hometown.

Europe knows what a war is. It ripped itself to shreds twice within my grandparents’ lifetime. Consider France in World War I. France (with one-quarter as many people as we have) lost as many people as we’ve lost in the entire Iraq War—over 4,000 people—in one day…many times. They lost as many people as we lost in Vietnam (60,000) in one month. And then it happened again and again until, by the end of World War I, an estimated half of all the men in France between the ages of 15 and 30 were casualties. When some Americans, frustrated at France’s reluctance to follow us into a war, call the French “surrender monkeys,” I believe it shows their ignorance of history. …

In 1947, in the rubble of a bombed-out Europe, Euro-visionaries assembled and agreed that they needed to overcome the hell that they were bringing upon themselves every couple of generations with these wars. Their solution was to unite. Of course, a union is nothing without people giving up some measure of real sovereignty. Since 1947, proponents of a European Union have been convincing the people of proud and independent nations to trade away bits and pieces of their independence. It’s a tough sell. But in a fitful evolution—two steps forward and one step back—over the last sixty or so years, they have created a European union.

Yes, Europe has had its economic woes the last few years. (Who hasn’t?) But a bold and ambitious experiment like the European Union is bound to have some growing pains, as member states with starkly different lifestyles, priorities, and fiscal philosophies are now sharing one big pot. Spain and Greece get all the press for their 25 percent unemployment and isolated riots, but more than half of the 27 EU members are currently not in recession–and several (Poland, the Baltic States) are enjoying impressive growth. Remember: Europe still has the biggest economy on earth (2011 GDP: $17.33 trillion in the EU vs. $15.09 trillion in the US), and as any traveler who has recently experienced sticker shock abroad can tell you, the euro currency is still mighty healthy. Europe’s vast investment in infrastructure has laced together a remarkable free-trade zone of superhighways and bullet trains that make it easier than ever to get around. The fact is, while some of its members are struggling, most EU citizens are much better off today than they were five, ten, twenty, or fifty years ago.

Naysayers continue to predict the imminent collapse of Europe. But what these people don’t understand is that European unity is not just a convenient political talking point that’s easily abandoned in tough times. It’s a way of life that most Europeans deeply believe in. While “Euroskeptics” complain loud and hard about the many failings of the EU–just as American politicians wrangle over differing viewpoints–ultimately Europeans believe as fiercely in unity, cooperation, and celebrating diversity as Americans believe in life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness.

I’m sure many stateside critics will scoff at this prize. They’ll say that the Europeans are rewarding themselves for their “failing” system. (This misses the fact that the Norwegians who awarded the prize are not, themselves, EU citizens.) These critics, blinded by their own agenda, are missing the historical long view, which tell an astonishing success story. Sixty-seven years ago, Europe was rubble and millions were dead. With the generous kick-start of the Marshall Plan and visionary leaders pushing a pacifistic, economy-growing agenda, Europeans transformed their continent. Today there are few more prosperous and more peaceful places on earth. War between its members is unimaginable. Even the most hardened cynic can’t deny…Europe is doing something right.

I’ll end with more words from Thorbjoern Jagland and the Nobel Committee:

The union and its forerunners have for over six decades contributed to the advancement of peace and reconciliation, democracy and human rights in Europe. … Since 1945, that reconciliation has become a reality. The dreadful suffering in World War II demonstrated the need for a new Europe. Over a seventy-year period, Germany and France had fought three wars. Today war between Germany and France is unthinkable. This shows how, through well-aimed efforts and by building up mutual confidence, historical enemies can become close partners.

Again, Europe–nice job! You deserve it.


Not long ago, Europe was bombed flat, but–like Dresden’s iconic Frauenkirche–it has been rebuilt and is determined to have peace.

La Vita È Bella

I’ve been lucky to spend a good part of 2012 in Italy, researching my guidebooks and filming shows for this fall’s new television season (debuting across the USA this week). Several times a week, by chance, I’d run into our tour groups and their amazing guides. Their enthusiasm was contagious. Squinting (I don’t wear sunglasses) at the energy in their smiles, surrounded by dazzling sunshine, it struck me that the sun in Italy seems to have a special glint to it — as though it’s telling visitors: Life is good; let’s embrace it.

Especially in Tuscany (as our guides are experts at revealing), lifelong travel memories are like low-hanging fruit…yours to harvest. At a favorite new trattoria, the chef cut open a cantaloupe-sized rock of aged pecorino cheese, sniffed it like a fine wine, and then passed it to me. The dank, rustic smell took my mind straight to an agriturismo barn I had visited — where random rays of sun cut between the weathered boards, filtered by floating dust from the hay, and bathed the sheep in a timeless Tuscan light. The next day, I returned…needing again the fragrant ritual splitting of the pecorino.

On that same trip, in Florence — on the wrong side of the river, in the crusty Oltrarno district — an artisan drew me into his shop as if inviting me on a journey. Under a single dangling light bulb, he hammered gold leaf into a dingy halo, breathing life back into a faded saint that was originally crafted by a neighbor of his… five centuries ago.

A few days later and an hour’s drive away, I was inspired by the simple joy of watching an old man bicycling with his granddaughter atop the wide, fortified wall that once protected proud Lucca from its enemies (and now seems to corral the town’s Old World charm). Then, on rented bikes — with those same energetic smiles, the steady leadership of their guide, and that persistent sun glinting off everything in sight — another Rick Steves tour group frolicked by…embracing life in Italy.

Without ignoring the plight of people in turmoil or who are struggling, for the vast majority of us, I believe it is important to be mindful of what a relatively wonderful, peaceful, affluent, and stable (if not sustainable) age we life in. I’ve produced about 140 TV shows in the last 20 years. Shooting each show is a six-day scramble that ends with great relief when we’re finally done. For the first forty or so, I signed off with “I’m Rick Steves. Until next time, happy travels.” For the last hundred episodes, I’ve finished the show saying, “I’m Rick Steves. Until next time, keep on travelin’.” This summer, on a gondola, surrounded by the watery majesty of Venice, I was moved to change it up a bit. Script covered and show in the can, I looked at the camera and said, “I’m Rick Steves. Life is good. Be thankful. Ciao.”

What Our Rick Steves Tour Guides in Greece and Spain Are Saying About “Unrest”

Europe is dealing with a harsh reality: They are consuming more than they are producing. The entitlements they grew up expecting were made possible by a young society with lots of workers and not too many retirees. And today, they are living in a relatively geriatric society in need of some pretty harsh adjustments. Politicians understand the new arithmetic needed, but many of the people don’t. European workers are angry, afraid, and frustrated…and hitting the streets.

Demonstrating is woven into European democracies. And, while protesting is generally just too much trouble for most Americans, Europeans are quick to hit the streets when they want to raise their collective voice. I think it’s healthy. It’s my hunch that for many years to come, Europe will be sorting this out, and travelers will encounter parades and rallies in front of parliament buildings — and anarchists wanting to hijack these events to make their points and get on the news. As the TV news media loves vivid footage, this is easy to do.

The challenge for American travelers in Europe is to stay safe while not overreacting. If you want to be entirely safe, just avoid demonstrations. If you run into any inconvenience, I’ll bet it will be a strike. That’s certainly nothing new in Europe. Remember that while the USA has its “99 percent” issues, Europe is much tougher on that top 1 percent. It’s been my experience that while strikes are commonplace in Europe, most are “nuisance strikes” — just a day here and a day there. They are unpredictable, and designed to just temporarily make everyone frustrated and miserable (like the strikers are).

Austerity measures in Europe have triggered public protests during the past couple of weeks, most notably in Greece and Spain, where the unemployment rate is around 25 percent. News reports have focused on acts of violence that have occurred at some events, which gives the impression that entire cities or countries have become dangerous for travelers. We’ve been keeping a close eye on things, as we’ve had over 400 perfectly safe and successful tours enjoy Europe this year. Rather than basing our impressions exclusively on sensationalistic news coverage (as most casual observers do), we get timely, real-world reports from our guides on the ground. If you’re considering a trip and wondering about the impact of Europe’s economic problems on your travel fun, these very recent guide reports may interest you:

Pat O’Connor in Greece
Greetings from Monemvasia, where the weather is fantastic and David is leading a great Athens and the Heart of Greece tour. Per your request, here’s what I’ve encountered regarding unrest in Greece: In a word, zilch. Let me expand on that. When I was in Austria finishing leading my Germany, Austria, and Switzerland tour in mid-September, I saw on BBC News that a general strike was scheduled for September 26th in Athens. I flew from Vienna to Athens on September 24th, and our last Greece tour of the year kicked off that night. Our hotel is five blocks from the Acropolis and perhaps half a mile from Syntagma Square (where past demonstrations have focused). Our first full day in Athens (the 25th) was enjoyable, and we were able to visit the Acropolis in the morning and use the Metro to visit the Archaeological Museum in the afternoon. No problems — just predictable large crowds at the sites and urban commuters in the subway. The following morning (the 26th), we visited the new Acropolis Museum as it opened, and then got on our coach and drove out of Athens mid-morning. David said that the museum employees had voted not to strike and don’t see the point in turning away travelers that are so much a part of their economy. Our Greek driver was savvy enough to know to take a longer loop route out of the city to avoid any potential chaos near Syntagma Square. And from there, the tour has progressed beautifully.

We’ve encountered no animosity or general unease from the Greek people. They seem genuinely friendly and glad to have us visiting in a year that’s obviously a down year for tourism (I read in The Herald Tribune that visitors flying through Athens are down 14 percent this year). I heard no sirens in Athens. I saw no banners or marchers. I suppose we could have found trouble if we’d looked for it by going to Syntagma Square on the 26th. But, honestly, it’s been a complete non-event from a visitor’s perspective.

David Willett in Greece
There was no sign of any disturbance whatsoever on our Athens and the Heart of Greece tour. No sights missed. Tour members will return home and hear about this, and not believe they were in same place as the news described. They will be telling their friends that the media coverage of Greece is woefully wide of the mark. In fact, outside of a few protests at Syntagma Square (where a few extremists hijacked an otherwise peaceful demonstration and grabbed headlines in the US), Greece has been noticeably quieter than usual overall. Our tour spends most of its time outside of Athens, and people outside the city generally vote against striking, which is why we’re not inconvenienced at all.

The Greek (and southern European) tradition of dealing with issues is to go into the streets and protest. If it wasn’t the debt crisis, it would be something else. There is a festive, highly emotional aspect to this, so sometimes tempers can show. The media is always looking for visuals to simplify things, so two people walking down the street carrying signs makes the news. There will be more “drama” as the debt crisis plays out, so people need to get used to this kind of thing making headlines. But it has little if any real effect on travelers’ experiences here.

One of my goals on every tour is to put Americans in touch with typical Greeks, and see that these are still Europe’s most friendly and welcoming people. Nothing has changed about that!

Nygil Murrell in Spain
From my experience of walking around Madrid over the past several weeks, the focus of the demonstrations has been almost exclusively around the Municipal Congress Center, and the closest that demonstrators are able to get to the barricades, which is Neptune Square. While there have been different groups (labor unions, independent organizations, etc.) that have marched their way through city-center areas (Puerta del Sol, for example) to reach the demonstrations, these are peaceful marches that are simply trying to rally people to join in on the way to the Congress demonstrations. The average traveler isn’t affected by this in any way.

Following the first protest, which ended in police aggression, the demonstrations have been mellow affairs during the normal hours of the evening. They have only escalated when the remaining few, who are determined to stay on-site as long as possible, are forced out by police who use aggressive tactics in the wee hours of the morning. This action, which involves relatively few people, makes the headlines.
Because none of our various Spain tour groups have any reason to go near the demonstration site, I haven’t seen anything more than what’s been on the news. I think a sensational approach is being taken by both left and right newspapers. The left wants to show police brutality spurred on by the conservative government, while the right wants to show the “out-of-control” nature of the demonstrators with the goal of discouraging “normal” people from joining them. As always, the truth lies somewhere in the middle. And those of us who chose to stay away from this more theatrical way of exercising our freedom are simply doing our best to enjoy life in beautiful Spain.

App News: 23 New Tracks for Rick Steves Audio Europe™

We’ve added 23 new tracks to Rick Steves Audio Europe™, the free smartphone app that organizes my audio content (radio interviews, audiobook chapters, and self-guided tours) into country- or city-specific playlists. So far, 200,000 travelers have downloaded our app for free access to nearly 300 radio interviews and 37 self-guided audio tours via their iPhones or Android mobile devices.

This free travel information service, with much-improved features in its newest version, will continue to grow. We add batches of Europe-related radio interviews twice a year. And I’ll be producing four new audio tours on Munich and Amsterdam this winter.

This newest batch of interviews from my radio show includes conversations with some well-known folks who share my passion for travel: legendary photographer Annie Leibovitz, NPR host Steve Inskeep, and teen actor-turned-travel writer Andrew McCarthy.  I also talk with European travel experts about crafting the perfect Tuscan picnic, appreciating postwar Sarajevo, enjoying Paris after dark, and much more.  And if you’re planning a trip to Europe soon, the app has hours of trip-enhancing material of great value for anyone traveling with a mobile device. If you don’t already have the Rick Steves Audio Europe™ app, you can find it here: Rick Steves Audio Europe™