Here you can browse through my blog posts prior to February 2022. Currently I'm sharing my travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on my mind solely on my Facebook page. — Rick

Glasgow Surprises

In recent years, I’ve really been enjoying what I consider the “second cities” of Europe. The Chicagos of Europe don’t get a free ride, and they lack the blockbuster attractions and charming sights that bring everyone to the big-league cultural capitals. These “second cities” often have a rough, Industrial Age heritage that dug them deep into a rust-belt hole with the coming of the Information Age, but enabled them to be honest,  unvarnished, and nonconformist. My list of European “second cities” includes Porto in Portugal, Naples in Italy, Marseilles in France, Hamburg in Germany, Antwerp in Belgium, and Glasgow in Scotland. I find all of these much-improved lately — underrated and great to visit. (Yes, Glasgow’s population is bigger than Edinburgh’s. But given that Edinburgh is the capital and dwarfs its rival from a tourism perspective, this travel writer considers Glasgow an honorary “second city.”)

In part because of my love of Edinburgh and in part because I don’t get to Scotland much, I’ve never seriously considered Glasgow. I thought I’d like it because I liked the Andy Capp cartoon, which I thought was set here. But when I got to Glasgow, I found out that Andy actually “lived” in Newcastle (south of the border, in gritty North England).

But with or without Andy Capp, Glasgow has a wonderful energy. And, being less an hour from Edinburgh by train (with four trains per hour), it’s an easy day trip. I’d say your best “day three” in Edinburgh is to side-trip here for “day one” in Glasgow.

Midway through a very full morning with my guide, Colin, I stopped for a coffee. The busker across the street had charisma, and the people-watching was endearing. Just as I was thinking, “This is so great…where are the Americans?”, two women burst into my video to tell me they’re taking one of our tours.

Enjoy two minutes with an extra-hot latte on what I think of as “the Ramblas of Glasgow”: Buchanan Street.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

Haggling Over Pyramid Ratings in Our Guidebooks

Our guidebooks have been evolving with annual updates since the first edition of Europe Through the Back Door in 1980. I’m in the midst of month three of my annual four months of guidebook research. But even with four focused months of travel annually, I can’t begin to cover all our chapters. Now I have the joy of a trusted team of writers and researchers that help us meet our goal of covering all of Europe with the best and most lovingly updated guidebooks in print.

Lots of my favorite places have been favorites for literally decades, and we need to constantly reconsider old loves. Last week, I received this thoughtful email from my valued co-author and lead researcher, Cameron Hewitt, who recently returned from a trip to Germany and Britain. He suggested that I reconsider the number of stars (or “pyramids” in our jargon) I awarded to various sights. If you’ve seen our guidebooks, you know how this works:
Each sight gets a rating, from zero pyramids to three pyramids (Δ Δ Δ). As we explain in our books, these ratings mean the following:

Δ Δ Δ  Don’t miss

Δ Δ   Try hard to see

Δ   Worthwhile if you can make it

zero Δ Worth knowing about

These pyramids (like Michelin stars) are carefully and sparingly awarded. They have a real impact on travelers’ itinerary priorities, and we take them very seriously. I agreed with all of Cameron’s suggestions. And, for the upcoming 2014 editions, we have added or subtracted stars for these sights for the reasons explained.

Pyramid-changes

Scotland Tour: All Tours Must Pass

It is always a bit emotional at the end of a tour, when we say goodbye to our bus driver and guide. We have a tour culture where bus drivers eat meals with our groups and are part of the family. Farewells (even with Roddie’s fake over-the-top emotions in this clip) are heartfelt. Our groups pack light, carry their own bags, and take care of the bus as if it’s ours. Drivers appreciate that. And drivers add a wonderful bit of spice to the social and cultural mix.

Our tour guide, Liz Lister (now with three Rick Steves tours — two assisting and one leading — under her belt), has picked up and embraced our quirky style well and clearly enjoys the group.

The party Liz invited the group to is our annual tour reunion party in Seattle. We’ll be flying Liz to Seattle in January (along with our other European guides) for our annual reunion festivities and tour guide summit. Our guides look forward as much as anyone to being reunited with their tour members.

As our tour disperses, I’ll be heading for Glasgow, Berlin, and Prague before meeting Steve Smith in Alsace and then joining up with the crew for TV production in France. Stay tuned.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

Scotland Tour: A Fogbow Kicks off our Tour’s Last Day

As my Best of Scotland in 10 Days tour winds down, it strikes me how quickly it’s all gone.  Here are a few memorable photos from late in the tour.

p9-fog-bow

I’ve seen a lot of things for my first time during this tour. One thing I didn’t expect to see was a fogbow. In front of our B&B, a heavy bank of fog obliterated the dramatic island view. Then, suddenly, we all opened our eyes wide as a wonderful band of light arced across the sky. Someone declared, “A fogbow!”

p10-group-shotHere, in front of Stirling Castle, we all gathered with Robert the Bruce for a group shot.

p11-group-tight

When I shoot a group shot, I don’t want sky. I don’t want trees. And I don’t want feet. I want faces. These are the people with whom I shared a trip I’ll never forget. Holding my camera high, I can maximize the density of happy faces.

Scotland Tour: Some Drum Fun with a Bodhrán

Celtic music (both Irish and Scottish) stirs me. It’s a great part of travel here. I see the tumult of the past and the love of heritage in the eyes of the musicians. There really is a spark that mixes well with beer, smiles, and good pub lighting. It’s a unique conviviality that I find nowhere else in my travels.

Part of the magic of Celtic music is how it’s invigorated by the driving and organic beat of the bodhrán — that ubiquitous handheld, animal-skinned drum thumped with such vibrancy with a single stick. During our group dinner in Oban (the gateway port to the Hebrides), we were entertained by a one-man musical act named Alex MacFie. Alex has been a big hit with our tour groups here for years. He demonstrated several traditional instruments and told stories offering an insight into Scottish culture while we ate (served by the young women enjoying Alex’s beat behind the bar).

Where has folk music connected you with a culture and its past like it does for me in Scotland and Ireland?

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.