Here you can browse through my blog posts prior to February 2022. Currently I'm sharing my travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on my mind solely on my Facebook page. — Rick

Formal Night on the Emerald Princess

While it’s not required when cruising, it’s nice to be able to dress up a bit. For this trip, Trish and I packed an extra bag with cruise-specific clothes.

Many cruises have one or two designated formal nights. The focus is the main dining room, and passengers get decked out for dinner in suits and cocktail dresses — even tuxes and floor-length gowns. In general, on formal nights the ambience of the ship is upscale, with people dressed to the nines hanging out in the bars, casinos, and other public areas.

Some passengers relish the opportunity to dress up on formal nights. But if you don’t feel like it, it’s fine to dress smart casual — as long as you stay out of the dining room. If unable to meet the dress expectations, you can skip the formal dinners and eat at another restaurant or the buffet, or order room service. (Photos by Trish Feaster, see her blog at The Travephile.com.)

It’s formal night on the ship, and I do my best with what I’ve got.
It’s formal night on the ship, and I do my best with what I’ve got.
Formal night is the night the captain appears before the ship’s peasantry. Whether you have a suite with a balcony or a tiny room with bunk beds and drapes that pretend to cover a window, all are welcome to gather as the captain introduces his lead officers and greets the passengers. Of course, the frequent cruisers, special guests, and those who pay for premium fancy cabins have other opportunities to hang out with the captain and the officers. There is a kind of hierarchy on cruise ships. Most crew members aren’t allowed to socialize with the passengers. But uniformed officers mix and mingle plenty at special events. We enjoyed one happy hour when it seemed every passenger in attendance had been on eight to 10 Princess cruises. It seems cruisers get comfortable with a particular line, become loyal customers, and enjoy special status.
Formal night is the night the captain appears before the ship’s peasantry. Whether you have a suite with a balcony or a tiny room with bunk beds and drapes that pretend to cover a window, all are welcome to gather as the captain introduces his lead officers and greets the passengers. Of course, the frequent cruisers, special guests, and those who pay for premium fancy cabins have other opportunities to hang out with the captain and the officers. There is a kind of hierarchy on cruise ships. Most crew members aren’t allowed to socialize with the passengers. But uniformed officers mix and mingle plenty at special events. We enjoyed one happy hour when it seemed every passenger in attendance had been on eight to 10 Princess cruises. It seems cruisers get comfortable with a particular line, become loyal customers, and enjoy special status.
I made this man feel short. He made me feel like a tramp. And we shared an elevator ride filled with laughter that will live on in our memories.
I made this man feel short. He made me feel like a tramp. And we shared an elevator ride filled with laughter that will live on in our memories.
Whether you packed fancy cloths and dress up or not, it’s fun to be out and about on formal night. Dressing up is a big deal for lots of people and it simply puts them in a fun-loving mood.
Whether you packed fancy cloths and dress up or not, it’s fun to be out and about on formal night. Dressing up is a big deal for lots of people and it simply puts them in a fun-loving mood.

43-crashing-portrait-booth

Enjoying the Ship

Cruising makes a lot of travelers happy. That’s clear every night when we enjoy our evenings on board the Emerald Princess. Some friends of this blog have commented that they can’t believe I’m advocating cruising. I’m not pro or con cruising. It simply works for lots of people.  I’m learning about it and hoping to help those who like cruising to get the most out of their precious shore time. That’s why we’ve written our cruise guidebooks to both Northern European and Mediterranean ports, that’s why I’m on this ship, and I’m having a great time while I’m at it. Go back to my blog from September 2011 to read my reports on our Mediterranean cruise. (Photos by Trish Feaster, The Travelphile.com.

Our Princess Cruise Lines ship has several pools and public zones that will suit your mood. If you want relative quiet, you can find it.
Our Princess Cruise Lines ship has several pools and public zones that will suit your mood. If you want relative quiet, you can find it.
The Emerald Princess’ main pool is the social gathering point. A huge screen, used for showing movies, towers above it. Hot water and conversation bubble in the hot tubs at all hours.
The Emerald Princess’ main pool is the social gathering point. A huge screen, used for showing movies, towers above it. Hot water and conversation bubble in the hot tubs at all hours.
One of the surprise delights of our cruise was feeding the birds. I imagine it’s not encouraged (and after 15 minutes of making birds very happy, a woman on a lower balcony craned her neck and looked up at me to say, “Can you stop that? They’re going to poop on me.”). But it was mesmerizingly fun. Seagulls seemed to be playing in the drafts caused by our mammoth ship all the time. Here, as we sailed away from Stockholm, I’d launch a tiny chunk of bread a few times and somehow the word got out. Within minutes, I had a gaggle of gulls swooping by to grab crumbs as I tossed them. They were graceful and seemed to laugh along with me throughout this acrobatic feeding.
One of the surprise delights of our cruise was feeding the birds. I imagine it’s not encouraged (and after 15 minutes of making birds very happy, a woman on a lower balcony craned her neck and looked up at me to say, “Can you stop that? They’re going to poop on me.”). But it was mesmerizingly fun. Seagulls seemed to be playing in the drafts caused by our mammoth ship all the time. Here, as we sailed away from Stockholm, I’d launch a tiny chunk of bread a few times and somehow the word got out. Within minutes, I had a gaggle of gulls swooping by to grab crumbs as I tossed them. They were graceful and seemed to laugh along with me throughout this acrobatic feeding.
As we sailed through Stockholm’s vast archipelago, the light was just right and a glass of Champagne seemed to compliment the moment.
As we sailed through Stockholm’s vast archipelago, the light was just right and a glass of Champagne seemed to compliment the moment.
A fun way to meet the stateroom neighbors was to share a drink as the ship sliced through particularly scenic stretches of our cruise.
A fun way to meet the stateroom neighbors was to share a drink as the ship sliced through particularly scenic stretches of our cruise.

Some Insider Notes on Cruise Excursions

33-rick-look-out-from-deckCruise lines make part of their profit by selling on-shore excursions. When chosen carefully, these day trips (lasting from 3 to 8 hours, costing $80 to $300) can be a fine value. Talking with the staff of various cruise lines in Northern Europe, I learned this about cruise excursions:

Most cruise lines offer essentially the same experiences, just with different names. Whether offered by a top-end cruise line or a cheaper one, the excursions are mostly purchased from the same ground services in port cities and are essentially the same. Excursion groups are smaller on walks (limited to about 22 people) and bigger on buses (up to 44 cruisers). Because most cruises start or finish in Copenhagen, there’s not much cruise-excursion business in that city. The best city for visiting an Ice Bar is Stockholm. But, in general, the Ice Bar tours — sold in several cities — are the worst value. (You just go into a frozen bar with a bunch of cruisers and share an experience that really has nothing to do with your destination and is little more than a big, icy ad for a vodka company.) Fit people will accomplish more if they choose a more active excursion option. The less demanding tours have much more leisurely schedules and a slower pace. The cruise line’s promotional material will make it clear how physically demanding a particular excursion is.

Russia is the least tourist-friendly destination. Cruisers find that the people there are often uninterested in helping and don’t speak English. The Russian excursions are all sold by the same big company. Ballet is a big hit and people love the ballet excursion but, as the big-name troupes are on summer break, your “ballet” evening is with lesser dance groups in lesser venues. While tourists can’t go ashore on their own in Russia without a visa, crew members have a “seaman’s book” that lets them go ashore in countries such as Russia.

The biggest money generators for cruise lines in Northern Europe are Berlin (since so many people take the three-hour train ride into the city from the north coast port) and St. Petersburg (because, with the visa requirement, almost no one ventures ashore without a cruise-line excursion). Photo by Trish Feaster; for more great photos, see her blog at The Travelphile.com.

Aarhus, Denmark’s Second City

Aarhus, Denmark’s second-largest city, has a population of 256,000 and calls itself the “World’s Smallest Big City.” I’d argue it’s more like the world’s biggest little town: easy to handle and easy to like. Its Viking founders settled here — where a river hit the sea — in the eighth century. Aarhus, a pleasant three-hour train ride from Copenhagen, is starting to get a few cruise ships dropping by — as ours did. Photos by Trish Feaster, see her blog at The Travelphile.com.

Only a couple of dozen cruise ships each season (mostly Princess ships) choose to stop in Aarhus. (This is done to break the long ride from Oslo to Warnemünde.) A free and easy shuttle bus zips you to a welcome tent with a TI with money exchange, bike rental, and Danish handicrafts for sale. I encountered this happy gang — fans of my TV shows and guidebooks — heading back to the ship after a few hours of fun in Aarhus.
Only a couple of dozen cruise ships each season (mostly Princess ships) choose to stop in Aarhus. (This is done to break the long ride from Oslo to Warnemünde.) A free and easy shuttle bus zips you to a welcome tent with a TI with money exchange, bike rental, and Danish handicrafts for sale. I encountered this happy gang — fans of my TV shows and guidebooks — heading back to the ship after a few hours of fun in Aarhus.
You get the feeling that the arrival of a cruise ship is big news in little Aarhus. While the Aarhus pier is buried in an industrial container wasteland where, for security reasons, no one is allowed to walk into town on their own, passengers are often greeted by a high-school marching band.
You get the feeling that the arrival of a cruise ship is big news in little Aarhus. While the Aarhus pier is buried in an industrial container wasteland where, for security reasons, no one is allowed to walk into town on their own, passengers are often greeted by a high-school marching band.
Aarhus makes cruisers feel welcome. Local students get summer work by standing by to answer any questions cruisers have as they tumble off their ships and head into town. From the port, red dots lead you on a five-minute walk into the Aarhus town center.
Aarhus makes cruisers feel welcome. Local students get summer work by standing by to answer any questions cruisers have as they tumble off their ships and head into town. From the port, red dots lead you on a five-minute walk into the Aarhus town center.
In the 1930s, the Aarhus River was covered over to make a new road — an event marked by much celebration. In the 1980s, locals reconsidered the change, deciding that the road cut a boring, people-mean swath through the center of their town. They removed the road, artfully canalized the river, and created a trendy new people zone — the town’s place to see and be seen. This strip of modern restaurants ensures that the street stays as lively as possible even after the short summer. With plenty of take-away eateries, we enjoyed a nice budget lunch sitting on the riverbank in the center of Aarhus.
In the 1930s, the Aarhus River was covered over to make a new road — an event marked by much celebration. In the 1980s, locals reconsidered the change, deciding that the road cut a boring, people-mean swath through the center of their town. They removed the road, artfully canalized the river, and created a trendy new people zone — the town’s place to see and be seen. This strip of modern restaurants ensures that the street stays as lively as possible even after the short summer. With plenty of take-away eateries, we enjoyed a nice budget lunch sitting on the riverbank in the center of Aarhus.
I spent my time in Aarhus updating that chapter in our Scandinavia guidebook. (As so few ships call here, the city is not in our new Northern European Cruise Ports book.) I didn’t realize the city had a fascinating museum about life under Nazi rule in World War II. Here’s the new listing:  Occupation Museum, 1940-1945 — Aarhus’ police station was used by the Nazi occupiers for their Gestapo headquarters throughout World War II. It was the scene of tortures and executions. Today, it’s a fine exhibit telling the story of the resistance and what it was like to live here under Nazi rule. You’ll learn of heroic acts of sabotage, hear how guns were dropped by England in the night, and see underground newspapers that kept occupied Danes connected and in the know. Sadly, much of the exhibit is without English descriptions (30 kr, free loaner English transcription, Tue-Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Mon, Mathilde Fibigers Have 2; as you face the cathedral, it’s around to the left).
I spent my time in Aarhus updating that chapter in our Scandinavia guidebook. (As so few ships call here, the city is not in our new Northern European Cruise Ports book.) I didn’t realize the city had a fascinating museum about life under Nazi rule in World War II. Here’s the new listing:
Occupation Museum, 1940-1945 — Aarhus’ police station was used by the Nazi occupiers for their Gestapo headquarters throughout World War II. It was the scene of tortures and executions. Today, it’s a fine exhibit telling the story of the resistance and what it was like to live here under Nazi rule. You’ll learn of heroic acts of sabotage, hear how guns were dropped by England in the night, and see underground newspapers that kept occupied Danes connected and in the know. Sadly, much of the exhibit is without English descriptions (30 kr, free loaner English transcription, Tue-Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Mon, Mathilde Fibigers Have 2; as you face the cathedral, it’s around to the left).
Wandering the streets of Aarhus, the city just entertains. This building actually helped me take notes. Today, modern Aarhus bustles with an important university, an inviting café-lined canal, a bursting-with-life pedestrian boulevard, a collection of top-notch museums (modern art, open-air folk, and prehistory), and an adorable “Latin Quarter” filled with people living very, very well.
Wandering the streets of Aarhus, the city just entertains. This building actually helped me take notes. Today, modern Aarhus bustles with an important university, an inviting café-lined canal, a bursting-with-life pedestrian boulevard, a collection of top-notch museums (modern art, open-air folk, and prehistory), and an adorable “Latin Quarter” filled with people living very, very well.

Eating at Sea

A big part of travel is eating. We all know that. And a big part of cruising is eating, too. For some cruisers, it’s all about quantity. (And cruises play to that crowd brilliantly, with abundantly stocked cafeteria lines open all hours.) But for more and more of us, it’s about quality. I noticed that, while the food was fine in the main mess hall, the ingredients were much better in the “Specialty Restaurants.” Photos by Trish Feaster, see her blog at The Travelphile.com.

These days, any cruise ship will offer premium restaurant options for an extra fee. On our Princess Line ship, we paid $25 extra apiece several nights to enjoy the fine-dining options...and loved it.
These days, any cruise ship will offer premium restaurant options for an extra fee. On our Princess Line ship, we paid $25 extra apiece several nights to enjoy the fine-dining options…and loved it.
A fun thing about cruising is that you meet lots of people, and you always have something in common: You’re both enjoying wonderful vacations — with lots to talk about. We would often team up with new friends over a meal in the evening after setting sail to our next destination.
A fun thing about cruising is that you meet lots of people, and you always have something in common: You’re both enjoying wonderful vacations — with lots to talk about. We would often team up with new friends over a meal in the evening after setting sail to our next destination.
The food served on a cruise ship rarely has anything to do with where you are sailing to or where you just visited. It’s generally just good, basic international cuisine...and nothing to get the American out of his or her comfort zone. Here, after adding a shrimp to give my steak a Florida, I had a nice red-meat USA on my plate.
The food served on a cruise ship rarely has anything to do with where you are sailing to or where you just visited. It’s generally just good, basic international cuisine…and nothing to get the American out of his or her comfort zone. Here, after adding a shrimp to give my steak a Florida, I had a nice red-meat USA on my plate.

25-rick-breakfast-guidebook
Cruising keeps you on your traveler’s toes. Each morning over breakfast, I’d review that day’s port chapter in my new Northern European Cruise Ports guidebook. I love this new book as much as our Rick Steves’ Mediterranean Cruise Ports guidebook. My staff did a wonderful job of putting it together, and refining it as we cruise is a joy. I know that in coming years, tens of thousands of cruisers will get the most out of each day in each port thanks to this new guidebook.