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Rick Steves’ Travel Blog

Here you can browse through my blog posts prior to February 2022. Currently I'm sharing my travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on my mind solely on my Facebook page. — Rick

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Wear Thick Shoes When Touring Palestine

When traveling in rough lands, I always wear sturdy shoes. In my town, curbs at intersections are turned into ramps so people won’t trip…and other curbs are painted yellow, just in case. You even get goofy little red flags to carry when crossing the street. But in a country like Palestine, you’re on your own. There simply isn’t a strong ethic of “don’t litter.” Broken concrete, rusty junk, and piles of crumpled plastic blanket the roadsides. Excuse the wind buffeting on this clip as I give you a little tour from the perspective of my shoes — which follow me wherever I go.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

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This is Palestine

The West Bank is small (about 30 miles wide and 80 miles long). Every place we’re visiting for this episode is — barring delays at checkpoints or other disturbances — within a 90-minute drive of Bethlehem.

Introducing Palestine to our American television viewers, we’ll begin our new episode with this montage: “We’ll visit Jerusalem — sacred to Christians, Jews, and Muslims, and considered by Palestinians to be their historic capital. We’ll harvest olives, make a home visit, see the tomb of Abraham, learn to wear a scarf with style, follow pilgrims to the place of Jesus’ birth, bob in the Dead Sea, hike to an ancient monastery in the desert, and feel the energy of an emerging economy. Along the way, we’ll learn about walls, settlements, and the challenges facing the region.”

We needed a single viewpoint that said “Palestine” to kick off the show...and this was it. We were rushing to a monastery in the desert, but screeched to a halt when we saw this in the dramatic morning light, just after a light rainfall to clean the generally dusty air, and with some puffy clouds to give it punch. The frame was absolutely perfect, but it was right by the road — and after half an hour of trying to film the "on camera" without a thunderous truck going by, we decided to move on, thinking we’d find something else just as good. We didn’t, and days later, we drove all the way back from Ramallah to reshoot it here. The light was nowhere near as good...but it worked. Looking into the camera, I said, “We’ll visit the West Bank of the Jordan River — a land its residents call Palestine. While Israelis and Palestinians have overlapping claims and struggle to share it peacefully, the West Bank has a rich and fascinating heritage well worth exploring.”
We needed a single viewpoint that said “Palestine” to kick off the show…and this was it. We were rushing to a monastery in the desert, but screeched to a halt when we saw this in the dramatic morning light, just after a light rainfall to clean the generally dusty air, and with some puffy clouds to give it punch. The frame was absolutely perfect, but it was right by the road — and after half an hour of trying to film the “on camera” without a thunderous truck going by, we decided to move on, thinking we’d find something else just as good. We didn’t, and days later, we drove all the way back from Ramallah to reshoot it here. The light was nowhere near as good…but it worked. Looking into the camera, I said, “We’ll visit the West Bank of the Jordan River — a land its residents call Palestine. While Israelis and Palestinians have overlapping claims and struggle to share it peacefully, the West Bank has a rich and fascinating heritage well worth exploring.”
With a driver, a local guide, and a second cameraman, our standard crew of three was expanded to six in Palestine. And we could just barely fit in the biggest car we could get. Still, our driver was great, and having Dean, the second cameraman, was a God-send. (I capitalize that word in the Holy Land — because even many non-religious types notice God’s presence here.)
With a driver, a local guide, and a second cameraman, our standard crew of three was expanded to six in Palestine. And we could just barely fit in the biggest car we could get. Still, our driver was great, and having Dean, the second cameraman, was a God-send. (I capitalize that word in the Holy Land — because even many non-religious types notice God’s presence here.)
Last April, as I was scouting for this shoot, my guide stopped at this little roadside coffee stand at the edge of Bethlehem, and I thought: perfect for TV! We came back and filmed it, saying, “The local drive-through coffee shop, for a hit of local-style coffee, is part of any good Palestinian road trip.” (I got to drink three coffees for three takes.)
Last April, as I was scouting for this shoot, my guide stopped at this little roadside coffee stand at the edge of Bethlehem, and I thought: perfect for TV! We came back and filmed it, saying, “The local drive-through coffee shop, for a hit of local-style coffee, is part of any good Palestinian road trip.” (I got to drink three coffees for three takes.)
As much as I believe in Israel, I believe in Palestine, too. America knows and loves Israel. Israel has powerful advocates in the USA and is well-covered by our media. And Israel is very well-funded. If you played word-association with most Americans and said the word “Palestine,” you’d get “terrorism” as a response. That’s understandable. But my hunch is that Palestine has learned that violence is not the answer. Following a rash of suicide bombings in the early 2000s, it has now been more than five years (April 19, 2008) since an extremist from Palestine has resorted to violence within Israel. I firmly believe that those who care about Israel will learn that security, dignity, and independence for Palestine is actually in Israel’s best interest — part of the long-term, sustainable solution to this region’s troubles.
As much as I believe in Israel, I believe in Palestine, too. America knows and loves Israel. Israel has powerful advocates in the USA and is well-covered by our media. And Israel is very well-funded. If you played word-association with most Americans and said the word “Palestine,” you’d get “terrorism” as a response. That’s understandable. But my hunch is that Palestine has learned that violence is not the answer. Following a rash of suicide bombings in the early 2000s, it has now been more than five years (April 19, 2008) since an extremist from Palestine has resorted to violence within Israel. I firmly believe that those who care about Israel will learn that security, dignity, and independence for Palestine is actually in Israel’s best interest — part of the long-term, sustainable solution to this region’s troubles.

I’ll continue this Holy Land series until November 21st. Then, to celebrate my homecoming, I’ll give a live, free slideshow lecture on Thursday, November 21st at 7 p.m. P.S.T. in Edmonds, Washington. You can attend in person (registration required)…or watch the live webcast from anywhere in the world (no registration required). Learn more at Rick Steves – Holy Land: Israel and Palestine Today.

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Getting Cozy with the Palestinian Authority

After a week in Israel, it’s time to cross into Palestine. My goal is to show Palestine as a place that’s exciting and educational to explore. We’ll hit the tourist attractions, as well as address the obvious political issues. And, while we want to respect the past and present of this land — just as we do with any country we make a show about — we’re being careful not to get drawn into big debates or to take sides. Instead, we’re aiming for what you might call “dual narrative” journalism: Giving voice to reasonable and rational people from both sides of the thorny issues, to let viewers make up their own minds.

We have decided not to include Gaza in our work. Frankly, I’m not comfortable traveling to that Hamas-controlled area, and wouldn’t necessarily recommend it as a “tourist” destination. Instead, our take on Palestine focuses on the West Bank.

Of course, for some ardent supporters of Israel, simply going anywhere in Palestine discredits us. In fact, even using the name “Palestine” will alienate many people. Sadly, these are the people who, I believe, need to travel here the most.

I debated what to title the show. Many conservative Jews and Evangelical Christians, believing this is the land promised to the Jews, use the biblical name “Judea and Samaria.” The non-loaded “Palestinian-Occupied West Bank” or “Palestinian Territories” would be the cautious choice. But in recent years, many West Bank leaders are demonstrating a commitment to non-violence and, in some cases, acknowledging that Israel has a right to exist. The United Nations, seemingly swayed by this moderation, recently voted to grant Palestine (with that name) “non-member observer state” status. And I’ve decided to follow the example of the international community. I am naming our show with a proud and unapologetic “Palestine: Yesterday and Today.”

I’m anticipating some turbulence as we produce and air this show. Thankfully, I’m on public television, which provides our nation journalism and media that do not need the blessing of corporate advertising. (It would be extremely difficult to get most American corporations to buy advertising on a program dealing with this fiery issue.) We’ve never done this before, but we’ll include this little disclaimer: “The difficult issues Israelis and Palestinians are grappling with over this contested land are beyond this scope of this travel program. And, I know, just talking about this place upsets some people. But, as a travel writer, I’m OK with that.”

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It’s difficult for Israelis and Palestinians to connect in any way. Most young people from one side of the divide have no chance to meet their counterparts from the other. They are completely reliant upon media, parents, and schooling to shape their opinion of the young generation of the people they are destined to share their historic homeland with. I enjoyed introducing my Israeli and Palestinian guides to each other at any chance I got. This photo is taken at a restaurant parking lot in a zone in the West Bank under Israeli control. As people with both Israeli and Palestinian license plates can come here, it was a handy place for my Israeli guide, Abie (in the middle), to hand us over to our Palestinian guide, Kamal (on the left). As both of them are interested in “dual narrative” tourism, they swapped cards. (After our show airs, I plan to feature a page on my website to promote the work of all our guide friends. And at the end of this series of postings, I’ll list the contact info for all of our guides.)

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Just as on my scouting visit in April, our first night was in Bethlehem’s wonderful Tent Restaurant. All the players gathered: my crew (producer Simon Griffith and cameramen Karel Bauer and Dean Cannon), our two Palestinian guides (Kamal Murkurkur and Husam Jubran), and officials from the Palestinian tourist ministry (who were supportive of our work even though they had no budget to cover any of our expenses other than to provide a car). Waving the script while drinking a Palestinian beer, we were all jazzed for an adventure. (By the way, while Muslims don’t drink alcohol, Taybeh is a Christian-owned brewery and Kamal is a Christian Palestinian. Husam, a Muslim, prefers to suck on his hookah.)

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Palestine is a poor country, and the main activity is going out to eat dinner, to sip a fancy fruit juice or coffee, or to suck a hookah. While there’s no waterfront for family outings in the West Bank, hotels have swimming pools that are popular. And for fancy events or family festivals, former palaces survive today as hotels (like this Sheraton Hotel) to provide a nice venue. These beautifully attired women were happy to pose with an American next to their country’s flag.

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My dinner with Rula Ma’ayah, the Palestinian Minister of Tourism — a smart, earnest, and hardworking young Christian Palestinian woman — was full of insights. When she arrived, everyone lavished attention on her, referring to her as “her excellency.” It was interesting to spend an evening with a cabinet minister of a little country whose job was tourism, but whose work was so full of political considerations. The conversation was even better than the food. Rula told us fun anecdotes about being President Obama’s private guide during his recent visit and being all alone with him and Palestinian President Mahmoud Abbas at the Church of the Nativity (on the site where Jesus was born). Although instructed not to be political, she chose a political bit of scripture to read…and got a discreet thumb’s-up and a wink. During our visit, Rula was on a torrid schedule. She was off to Malaysia the next morning, as promoting tourism from Muslim states is most productive for Palestine. She explained one of her big challenges: Israel allows Palestine to have no airport, and residents of Muslim countries that don’t recognize Israel can’t fly into Tel Aviv’s Ben Gurion airport (just an hour’s taxi ride to most major Palestinian cities), so most visitors must fly into Amman in Jordan. But the Israeli-controlled border between Jordan and Palestine (near Jericho) routinely shuts down without warning and for no apparent reason. This means that Muslims from the outside world find it next to impossible to make plans to attend any meeting, event, or convention within Palestine.

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Israel in 3,300 Words?

The great frustration for me as a TV producer is to condense everything I’d like to say into 30 minutes and about 3,300 words. This week in Israel could have easily filled two episodes — but we’ll design it into one powerful viewing experience.

We like to start our shows with a montage, which we carefully craft as we travel and shoot. Now that we’re wrapping up our week of filming, here’s how we’ll start our episode on “The Best of Israel”:

“Israel is filled with fascinating sights — from the holy spirit of Jerusalem to the cosmopolitan spirit of Tel Aviv, with its in-love-with-life Mediterranean beaches. Visitors ponder the fortress of Masada, and pilgrims find inspiration at the Biblical sights around the Sea of Galilee. You can bob like a cork in the super-salty Dead Sea, the lowest place on Earth. And you can dive into thriving modern cities like Haifa, where both Jewish and Arab Israelis stoke the economy with a youthful and well-trained workforce. While lively multicultural café scenes seem to offer a promise of peace in Israel, any visit includes reminders of this country’s ongoing challenges. Israel is a land of tension and controversy — with protective walls, disputed settlements, and high-profile security. A thoughtful visit here is both poignant and enlightening.”

Pictured here is the Damascus Gate which leads into the Old City of Jerusalem (which itself could fill an entire episode).
Pictured here is the Damascus Gate which leads into the Old City of Jerusalem (which itself could fill an entire episode).

I’ll continue this Holy Land Blog series until Nov 21st. Then, to celebrate my homecoming, I’ll give a live, free slideshow lecture on Thursday, November 21st at 7 p.m. PST in Edmonds, WA. You can attend in person (registration required)…or watch the live webcast from anywhere in the world (no registration required). Learn more at Rick Steves Holy Land.

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Ultra-Orthodox — Every Religion’s Got ‘Em

I’m caught up in how religions around the world are stoking turmoil, even though the teachings of those religions say “love your neighbor,” and all of them have the “do unto others…” Golden Rule. And I’ve decided that fundamentalism is the problem. I think the rainbow of religions on this planet is a delight — except for the fundamentalists in each. Perhaps there are “different strokes for different folks” fundamentalists, but it seems to me that, in a nutshell, a fundamentalist (Christian, Jew, or Muslim) believes, “I am correct in my understanding of God, and you are wrong”… and then proceeds to intrude into the lives of people who see their relation with God differently.

Roughly 8 percent of Israeli Jews are ultra-Orthodox — very religious and living lives that require them to be apart in many ways. Entire districts of Jerusalem — such as Mea Shearim — are known as ultra-Orthodox. In Mea Shearim, people are dressed very conservatively. Women’s stores have a huge selection of wigs, hats, and scarves, because after marriage, Orthodox women must cover their hair in public. (If someone can explain to me the Jewish notion that a woman can’t show her hair in public for reasons of modesty, but she can wear a wig and still look great, I’m all ears.)
Roughly 8 percent of Israeli Jews are ultra-Orthodox — very religious and living lives that require them to be apart in many ways. Entire districts of Jerusalem — such as Mea Shearim — are known as ultra-Orthodox. In Mea Shearim, people are dressed very conservatively. Women’s stores have a huge selection of wigs, hats, and scarves, because after marriage, Orthodox women must cover their hair in public. (If someone can explain to me the Jewish notion that a woman can’t show her hair in public for reasons of modesty, but she can wear a wig and still look great, I’m all ears.)
Among ultra-Orthodox Jews, there are many groups who follow different teachers or rabbis. Many rabbis are charismatic and have huge followings. (One died the day we arrived in Jerusalem, and the streets of the city were at a standstill as thousands came out to mourn.) In the ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods of Jerusalem, storefronts are lined with posters and paintings of the top rabbis; a quick survey tells you which rabbis are the most popular. (Just as Baptists love the “Behold, I stand at the door and knock” painting, people here display paintings of The Second Temple before its destruction.) It got me thinking about other charismatic religious leaders, and how many Evangelical Christians are also more likely to be caught up in the teachings of a particular dynamic minister. Meanwhile, in both Christianity and Judaism, mainline worshippers have a spiritual keel provided not by an individual, but by a steady liturgy or theology that doesn’t flex with the comings and goings of various leaders.
Among ultra-Orthodox Jews, there are many groups who follow different teachers or rabbis. Many rabbis are charismatic and have huge followings. (One died the day we arrived in Jerusalem, and the streets of the city were at a standstill as thousands came out to mourn.) In the ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods of Jerusalem, storefronts are lined with posters and paintings of the top rabbis; a quick survey tells you which rabbis are the most popular. (Just as Baptists love the “Behold, I stand at the door and knock” painting, people here display paintings of The Second Temple before its destruction.) It got me thinking about other charismatic religious leaders, and how many Evangelical Christians are also more likely to be caught up in the teachings of a particular dynamic minister. Meanwhile, in both Christianity and Judaism, mainline worshippers have a spiritual keel provided not by an individual, but by a steady liturgy or theology that doesn’t flex with the comings and goings of various leaders.
Leading rabbis or teachers have their own styles and set the standards of orthodoxy for their followers. You can identify who follows whom by which bit of the Torah they embrace with the most abandon. This rabbi on the right takes literally the Old Testament command to wear the Holy Scripture on your forehead, proclaiming your love of God — and so, then, do his followers, when they come for morning services.
Leading rabbis or teachers have their own styles and set the standards of orthodoxy for their followers. You can identify who follows whom by which bit of the Torah they embrace with the most abandon. This rabbi on the right takes literally the Old Testament command to wear the Holy Scripture on your forehead, proclaiming your love of God — and so, then, do his followers, when they come for morning services.
The diversity of Israel — both ethnic and religious — shows itself in the way people dress and wear their hair. This is especially evident in places of worship and in ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods. With the help of a local guide, simply people-watching comes with fun cultural insights. To illustrate and better understand this, we filmed a montage of people with different clothing and hairstyles. Then we got our guide to take us on a fascinating tour of religious fashion in Jerusalem, with commentary like this: "The yarmulke is a constant reminder that God is always above us. The ear locks are because some embrace the scripture that says don’t cut the hair on the side of your face. Men wear black as a symbol of mourning of the destruction of The Temple nearly two thousand years ago. The black top hats come in many varieties, and from them, you can guess which specific brand of Orthodoxy they profess....and, in some cases, which country they emigrated from."
The diversity of Israel — both ethnic and religious — shows itself in the way people dress and wear their hair. This is especially evident in places of worship and in ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods. With the help of a local guide, simply people-watching comes with fun cultural insights. To illustrate and better understand this, we filmed a montage of people with different clothing and hairstyles. Then we got our guide to take us on a fascinating tour of religious fashion in Jerusalem, with commentary like this: “The yarmulke is a constant reminder that God is always above us. The ear locks are because some embrace the scripture that says don’t cut the hair on the side of your face. Men wear black as a symbol of mourning of the destruction of The Temple nearly two thousand years ago. The black top hats come in many varieties, and from them, you can guess which specific brand of Orthodoxy they profess….and, in some cases, which country they emigrated from.”
Religions traditions reach well into the colorful markets of Israel. While the casual tourist (who doesn’t read Hebrew) would likely be oblivious to the fine points, shops like this attract a certain market segment by posting seals of approval certifying that the goods here are not just kosher, but perfectly in line with the standards of one specific rabbi's supervision. Other posters brag that a popular rabbi endorses that particular shop (much like how, in Britain, you’ll see the royal coat of arms at places patronized by the Queen).
Religions traditions reach well into the colorful markets of Israel. While the casual tourist (who doesn’t read Hebrew) would likely be oblivious to the fine points, shops like this attract a certain market segment by posting seals of approval certifying that the goods here are not just kosher, but perfectly in line with the standards of one specific rabbi’s supervision. Other posters brag that a popular rabbi endorses that particular shop (much like how, in Britain, you’ll see the royal coat of arms at places patronized by the Queen).