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Stockholm

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Stockholm Fun

I’m having a great time in Stockholm — biking around the city, placing a call from my own private telephone, and bumping into one of those Rick Steves tour groups.

bike-stockholmStockholm is one of Europe’s most beautiful cities — and it’s like none other for joyriding on a bike. Bike paths are a city-planning priority, and they run along the entire harbor. And parklike islands are biking utopias. Djurgården (“Animal Garden”) was the king’s private hunting preserve. Today it’s a vast park dotted with fun sights. I’d make a point to bike in the early evening, when lots of people are out, the light is warm, and colors pop. Getting a bike is cheap and easy in Stockholm (there’s a good rental place and a welcoming info center with good biking maps right next to the bridge that connects Djurgården to the rest of the city).

 

rikstelefonWhile almost no one ever uses my phone these days, every time I’m in Stockholm, I drop by the cathedral in the Old Town (Gamla Stan) just to hear the friendly dial tone on Riks telefon.

 

tour-group-and-rickWhile in Sweden, I bumped into one of our happy tour groups. Scandinavia is Europe’s most expensive region, so it’s our challenge to be sure this particular itinerary is as good a value as possible. And, of our 35 different Rick Steves tour routes, Scandinavia is selling really well this year. As a Norwegian myself, I’m particularly happy that we have a new guide — Pål Johansen, our first from Norway — who’s getting rave reviews. The entire group thought we looked like cousins, which — in a Viking sort of way — we are. Can you spot Pål in this photo?

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Stockholm’s City Bikes Program Works Great for Tourists

Cities all over northern Europe have loaner bike programs. Some cities lend themselves to biking, while others don’t. Some programs seem designed exclusively for locals, while others work well for foreign visitors, too. Stockholm is the best of both worlds: great for biking, and with a system that’s very tourist-friendly.

The Stockholm City Bikes have no locks, so you can only joyride or go from point A to point B (rather than parking it while you’re visiting a sight). And many of the stations are around town are either completely without bikes (a pain if you’re looking to borrow one) or already full (problematic when you need to drop one off). Fortunately, the Stockholm City Bikes app — which is free, easy, and fun to use — lets you know exactly how many bikes and open spaces are available at each station.

As I worked on the Stockholm chapter for the upcoming 2015 edition of Rick Steves’ Scandinavia guidebook, I proposed merging this “be a temporary local” experience with the best biking joyride route…and suddenly, Stockholm has another great activity. This video clip is your intro to a cheap and breezy experience next time you’re in the Swedish capital.

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Northern European Cruise Ports — A Springboard for Action

Our two cruise ports guidebooks (for both the Mediterranean and Northern Europe) are derived from our existing country guidebooks. To make them, we tailor existing chapters from these guidebooks to the needs of the independent-minded cruise traveler and assemble them in special editions so people can buy a single book rather than several to cover their itinerary. And my main research focus on this trip will be the ports.

Northern European ports lend themselves to independent travel. In many cases (including certain ports in Tallinn, Bergen, Oslo, and Copenhagen), they’re right in the city center and an easy walk from the sightseeing action — and when they aren’t, there’s good public transportation to the center of town. The ports themselves are generally not pretty, but mighty — industrial zones giving you a very honest look at the workings of these great cities. (Photos by Trish Feaster, see her blog – The Travelphile.com.)

This is Stockholm, where, as in many cities, there's a cruise dock in the center and a bigger one a bus ride away. Smaller and more expensive ships often dock right downtown, while most of the full-sized ships dock in the industrial zone farther out. You almost never drop anchor and use tenders to get ashore in Northern Europe — although in this shot, a big ship has dropped its hook just off Stockholm’s Gamla Stan (old town).
This is Stockholm, where, as in many cities, there’s a cruise dock in the center and a bigger one a bus ride away. Smaller and more expensive ships often dock right downtown, while most of the full-sized ships dock in the industrial zone farther out. You almost never drop anchor and use tenders to get ashore in Northern Europe — although in this shot, a big ship has dropped its hook just off Stockholm’s Gamla Stan (old town).
Cruise ports work hard to organize the masses. There are clear charts of each port (like this one for Copenhagen), shuttle buses if necessary, small temporary tourist information tents that are set up when a ship is in, and even painted lines in the pavement that take the guesswork out of getting to and from the town center.
Cruise ports work hard to organize the masses. There are clear charts of each port (like this one for Copenhagen), shuttle buses if necessary, small temporary tourist information tents that are set up when a ship is in, and even painted lines in the pavement that take the guesswork out of getting to and from the town center.
Each ship dumps off thousands of tourists, raring to have the best seven or eight hours possible in each port. Just off the gangplank, you’ll find several options: Tour buses awaiting those who signed up for ship-sponsored excursions (the standard option); hop-on, hop-off buses for budget and independent travelers (all-day, $25 tickets cover a 90-minute loop with a recorded narration, and include hop-off-and-on privileges as buses come by about every 20 minutes all day); public buses dedicated to connecting cruisers with the town center; and taxis (both standard and minibus — economical for small groups).
Each ship dumps off thousands of tourists, raring to have the best seven or eight hours possible in each port. Just off the gangplank, you’ll find several options: Tour buses awaiting those who signed up for ship-sponsored excursions (the standard option); hop-on, hop-off buses for budget and independent travelers (all-day, $25 tickets cover a 90-minute loop with a recorded narration, and include hop-off-and-on privileges as buses come by about every 20 minutes all day); public buses dedicated to connecting cruisers with the town center; and taxis (both standard and minibus — economical for small groups).
Princess Cruise Lines puts a big effort into helping its cruisers be prepared for each port (better than the other lines I’ve sailed with). On the Emerald Princess, our ship lecturer was John Lawrence, who has decades of experience cruising Northern Europe and knows each port intimately. Each evening, John gives a talk to a full theater about the next day’s port of call. That talk would then air repeatedly on the ship’s TV station. John even provided a live, guided narration of the most scenic stretches of island scenery we passed (like the archipelago we sailed through leaving Stockholm).
Princess Cruise Lines puts a big effort into helping its cruisers be prepared for each port (better than the other lines I’ve sailed with). On the Emerald Princess, our ship lecturer was John Lawrence, who has decades of experience cruising Northern Europe and knows each port intimately. Each evening, John gives a talk to a full theater about the next day’s port of call. That talk would then air repeatedly on the ship’s TV station. John even provided a live, guided narration of the most scenic stretches of island scenery we passed (like the archipelago we sailed through leaving Stockholm).
As I had to have my hot-off-the-press copy of our Rick Steves' Northern Europe Cruise Ports guidebook expressed to me in Copenhagen, I was surprised to find this family with the brand-new book in hand. After two years in print, our Rick Steves' Mediterranean Cruise Ports guidebook is already the leading seller for that region. It’s my hope that this book will be a hit, too. Judging from the fun these travelers were having with the help of our new book, I think we’re on the right track.
As I had to have my hot-off-the-press copy of our Rick Steves’ Northern Europe Cruise Ports guidebook expressed to me in Copenhagen, I was surprised to find this family with the brand-new book in hand. After two years in print, our Rick Steves’ Mediterranean Cruise Ports guidebook is already the leading seller for that region. It’s my hope that this book will be a hit, too. Judging from the fun these travelers were having with the help of our new book, I think we’re on the right track.
In each city, when it comes to tour guides, it’s all hands on deck when a cruise ship docks. I tagged along on this young man’s tour on a cruise excursion from Warnemünde (Germany), and he was great. Perhaps I enjoyed it so much because he seemed like he could be my son.
In each city, when it comes to tour guides, it’s all hands on deck when a cruise ship docks. I tagged along on this young man’s tour on a cruise excursion from Warnemünde (Germany), and he was great. Perhaps I enjoyed it so much because he seemed like he could be my son.
If there are 3,000 tourists relaxing on vacation, it’s because there are over a thousand crew members working day and night to keep them fed, watered, and clean. I have always been very impressed by the crews of our ships. Most are from the developing world and work very hard for low wages plus tips to support families they left behind. Our ship was staffed by several dozen nationalities, but mostly by Filipinos. Most ports have a special lounge for crew members, who make a beeline there to get online cheaply and connect with loved ones back home. Tourists are welcome to use the same cheap Wi-Fi service at these port lounges (which is a big help, as on-ship Wi-Fi is notoriously expensive and slow).
If there are 3,000 tourists relaxing on vacation, it’s because there are over a thousand crew members working day and night to keep them fed, watered, and clean. I have always been very impressed by the crews of our ships. Most are from the developing world and work very hard for low wages plus tips to support families they left behind. Our ship was staffed by several dozen nationalities, but mostly by Filipinos. Most ports have a special lounge for crew members, who make a beeline there to get online cheaply and connect with loved ones back home. Tourists are welcome to use the same cheap Wi-Fi service at these port lounges (which is a big help, as on-ship Wi-Fi is notoriously expensive and slow).
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ABBA — The Museum

I’m cruising Scandinavia and Northern Europe to update our new, hot-off-the-press Northern European Cruise Ports guidebook. And it’s fun to be sure not to miss any new sights that need assessing and writing up. For instance, for years, Sweden has been trying to find a place for its long-awaited ABBA Museum. Now it’s finally open, in Stockholm. Here’s how I wrote it up after my visit, plus a quick virtual visit by video:

ABBA the Museum — This Swedish pop group was, for a time, a bigger business than Volvo. They’ve sold more than 380 million records, and the musical Mamma Mia! (based on their many hits) has been enjoyed by 50 million people. Now the long-awaited ABBA Museum has finally opened, conveniently located just across the street from Skansen open-air folk museum and next to Gröna Lund amusement park on Djurgården. Like everything ABBA, this is aggressively for-profit, with pricey tickets and slick promotion. The museum is high-tech, with plenty of actual ABBA artifacts, recreated rooms where the group did its composing and recording, lots of high-energy video screens, everything explained in English, and plenty of interactive stations. Included in the ticket is a “digital key” that lets you record a music video karaoke-style as a fifth member of the group, then pick up the production from their website. To control the crowds, only 75 people are let in every 15 minutes, and tickets come with an entry time. You can buy your ticket online or at the TI to choose your “slot time,” or just drop in. If they’re busy, you may need to come back in an hour or two, but you can generally go right in. The ticket is expensive, and you’ll need to pay 40 kroner (about $6) extra for the audioguide, in which Agnetha, Benny, Björn, and Frida share their own memories. A small wing features the Swedish Music Hall of Fame, but apart from that, it’s all ABBA. If you like ABBA, it’s lots of fun (195 kr — that’s about $30, daily 10:00-20:00, on Djurgården at Gröna Lund, bus #44, tram #7, www.abbathemuseum.com).

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Hairspray and Vikings

I’m back in Edmonds now, finished with research and filming for the year. Like a big-game fisherman, finally back in port, I am pleased that we have six great shows in the cooler.

When filming I don’t give my wardrobe a second thought (obviously). The idea of putting on makeup is laughable. And I’ve never put anything on my hair…but the hair causes me problems. While I’m not picky about other things, I don’t like my hair blowing funny. If the wind is coming at me head-on, it’ll actually give me a good wind-blown look. But if it’s blowing against the grain, we have to wait for the wind to die down before we keep shooting. For a decade we’ve been waiting. We routinely lose great on-camera bits because of the wind and my hair. A couple times I’ve toyed with “product,” but I just can’t bring myself to use it.

As we were wrapping up our last show of the season, we were grabbing some glorious sun in windy Stockholm for on-cameras, and my hair was causing everything to grind to a halt. The weather was changing and we had to get the on-cameras shot. Someone said “hairspray,” and our local guide popped into a fancy hotel and bought a can. Simon, my producer, took me aside and spray-painted it all over my head. I stood on the pier with the wind coming at me from the wrong direction, nailed the on-camera, and the hair was perfect. It was like I’d just discovered hairspray. For ten years I’ve been fighting the wind. Now, as we wound up this shoot, I finally discovered hairspray. I have a new (and unlikely) friend.

Along with hair, I worked on taming Nordic history. I discovered how Scandinavians define their Middle Ages (which they do differently from the rest of Europe, because there was no Roman Empire to fall up in the north). The Viking Age is defined by the first and last Viking raids on England: 793 and 1050 A.D. And in Scandinavia, medieval times are also called the “Catholic Era” — stretching from the end of the Viking Age and the coming of Christianity (around 1050) until the Reformation (1527).

I got some more clarity on Scandinavian history. There were different Viking groups in each country. As Vikings, Norwegians went west to Iceland, Greenland, and America; Danes went south to England, France, and the Mediterranean; and the Swedes went east into Russia. (The word “Russia” has Viking roots.)

While Swedes went abroad readily, they were slower to open their doors to non-white immigrants. But Sweden has come a long way when it comes to accepting immigrants, as a popular story illustrates. In 1927 a black man worked in a Stockholm gas station. For Swedes who hadn’t traveled, he was the first black person they’d ever seen, and people journeyed from great distances to fill their car up here, just to get a look at him. (Business boomed, and his job was secure.)