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Comrades No More: Thoughts on Russia’s Invasion of Ukraine

 

Today is a profoundly sad day. Russia’s aggressive action is heartbreaking for the death, suffering, and economic turmoil it will cause in Ukraine and, indirectly at least, beyond. Here at Rick Steves’ Europe, we hope that a diplomatic solution can be found and peace will return to that fragile and long-suffering part of our world.

Our mission at RSE is to help Americans better know and understand our neighbors through travel. But when we bring travelers to another country, we also bring their dollars — dollars that would support Putin’s aggression. Therefore, as of today, we have canceled all 2022 tours that include a stop in Russia.

Of course, we will keep a close eye on unfolding events and monitor any travel impacts through the rest of Europe. But it is important to keep geographic realities in mind and remember that a war in Ukraine is as far from our European vacation dreams as a war in Guatemala would be from Texas or Florida. For 40 years now, we have lived, worked, and traveled through many periods of tragic warfare in lands far from where we lead our tours (and some closer). And at this time, we see no reason to change the rest of our travel and touring plans.

The tragic reality unfolding in Ukraine only reminds me how important it is for Americans to keep on traveling and to do so in a way that makes us better and more engaged citizens of our world. I’m flying to Europe next month for a 40-day trip through a dozen great cities from London to Athens — and I’m proud that thousands of my fellow travelers will experience the European trip of their dreams while having rich learning experiences far from home on a 2022 Rick Steves tour.

In the meantime, let’s be thankful for our blessings, support our nation’s leaders as they do their best to navigate this crisis, and keep the troubled corners of our world (Ukraine, Russia, Afghanistan, and more) in our thoughts and prayers.

—Rick

 

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A Day in St. Petersburg with a Rick Steves Tour Group

One of our Best of St. Petersburg, Tallinn & Helsinki tours was in town, so we decided to join them for the day. With a wonderful local guide, we rode the bus 15 miles to the town of Pushkin and a cluster of over-the-top-opulent Romanov palaces called the Czar’s Village (Tsarskoye Selo). This gorgeous ensemble of residences, pavilions, and gardens was born shortly after St. Petersburg, when Peter the Great’s wife Catherine founded a church and began erecting palaces here. Photos by Trish Feaster, The Travelphile.com.

During the second half of the 18th century, Peter’s heirs built the most impressive building at Czar’s Village: the grand Catherine Palace. Recently restored, like so much of St. Petersburg, it absolutely sparkles. Unfortunately, this is one palace that seems efficient and workable only for groups or individuals with a local guide. They give the lowest ticket priority and the last entry times to individual tourists.
During the second half of the 18th century, Peter’s heirs built the most impressive building at Czar’s Village: the grand Catherine Palace. Recently restored, like so much of St. Petersburg, it absolutely sparkles. Unfortunately, this is one palace that seems efficient and workable only for groups or individuals with a local guide. They give the lowest ticket priority and the last entry times to individual tourists.
I love to pop in on Rick Steves tour groups as I travel. I’ve probably crossed paths with a dozen in the last two months. I got to be an honorary member for a group shot on the grounds of Czarina Catherine’s palace. The group saved their best faces for my shot.
I love to pop in on Rick Steves tour groups as I travel. I’ve probably crossed paths with a dozen in the last two months. I got to be an honorary member for a group shot on the grounds of Czarina Catherine’s palace. The group saved their best faces for my shot.
At Europe Through the Back Door, we produce souvenir patches that many of our tour members enjoy collecting. With this particular tour group, the average number of Rick Steves tours people had taken was five to six. This woman, with “only” three of our patches, was a relative newbie. We’re so thankful for the passionate following we have among our tour members. And when I meet these loyal travelers, I’m reminded that they have high expectations for our tours. And I have high expectations for my staff to consistently exceed those high expectations...and they do.
At Europe Through the Back Door, we produce souvenir patches that many of our tour members enjoy collecting. With this particular tour group, the average number of Rick Steves tours people had taken was five to six. This woman, with “only” three of our patches, was a relative newbie. We’re so thankful for the passionate following we have among our tour members. And when I meet these loyal travelers, I’m reminded that they have high expectations for our tours. And I have high expectations for my staff to consistently exceed those high expectations…and they do.
These days, when you tour a big, crowded palace or museum with a commotion of tour groups and guides all coming together, the “whisper system” is a very good investment. A guide can talk softly into the microphone and the entire group (including me on this day) can wander through the crowded halls, immersed in all the glittering art, and hear everything — without having to scramble to get close enough to the guide to catch what she’s saying. With my guidebook, camera, and “whisper system” earpiece, I am one well-equipped tourist.
These days, when you tour a big, crowded palace or museum with a commotion of tour groups and guides all coming together, the “whisper system” is a very good investment. A guide can talk softly into the microphone and the entire group (including me on this day) can wander through the crowded halls, immersed in all the glittering art, and hear everything — without having to scramble to get close enough to the guide to catch what she’s saying. With my guidebook, camera, and “whisper system” earpiece, I am one well-equipped tourist.
Just like everyone mobs the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, people come to the Catherine Palace mostly to see the Amber Room. In a sumptuous and sprawling palace, this room stands out as a riot of gilded panels, embedded with amber and slathered with mirrors. Like the rest of the palace, the Amber Room had to be restored after World War II. The restoration was made possible, in part, by funds donated by German taxpayers — whose grandfathers caused the damage.
Just like everyone mobs the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, people come to the Catherine Palace mostly to see the Amber Room. In a sumptuous and sprawling palace, this room stands out as a riot of gilded panels, embedded with amber and slathered with mirrors. Like the rest of the palace, the Amber Room had to be restored after World War II. The restoration was made possible, in part, by funds donated by German taxpayers — whose grandfathers caused the damage.
It was a hot, hot day, and on the way home from the Catherine Palace, our bus driver stopped at a big Soviet-era square where hundreds of kids were enjoying buckets of fun with the fountains.
It was a hot, hot day, and on the way home from the Catherine Palace, our bus driver stopped at a big Soviet-era square where hundreds of kids were enjoying buckets of fun with the fountains.
Watching the fun on this square, and dodging lots of water (as tourists were fair game for these rollicking kids), I was struck by how, throughout the world, the laughter of happy children sounds exactly the same.
Watching the fun on this square, and dodging lots of water (as tourists were fair game for these rollicking kids), I was struck by how, throughout the world, the laughter of happy children sounds exactly the same.
Back at our tour group’s hotel, I enjoyed shooting a group selfie. After spending a day with our tour, I was impressed by how well-organized it was, the quality of our local guide, and how much fun the tour members were having. St. Petersburg is a new destination for ETBD, and I’m proud that our tour program includes it.
Back at our tour group’s hotel, I enjoyed shooting a group selfie. After spending a day with our tour, I was impressed by how well-organized it was, the quality of our local guide, and how much fun the tour members were having. St. Petersburg is a new destination for ETBD, and I’m proud that our tour program includes it.
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Eating in Russia

Eating in St. Petersburg is easy when you stick with the cafeteria lines. The food is good, the price is right, and you order by pointing — so you’re more likely to get what you want. Photos by Trish Feaster, The Travelphile.com.

Tepemok is a top local chain. A kind of Russian fast-food joint, you can eat here very well for just a few dollars. This is where people of all walks of life stop for a quick lunch.
Tepemok is a top local chain. A kind of Russian fast-food joint, you can eat here very well for just a few dollars. This is where people of all walks of life stop for a quick lunch.
Looking at this menu, you can get a sense for what’s cooking and the cost of eating out in Russia. Figure 33 rubles for a dollar or $3 for every hundred rubles. It’s fun to order adventurously from a menu like this.
Looking at this menu, you can get a sense for what’s cooking and the cost of eating out in Russia. Figure 33 rubles for a dollar or $3 for every hundred rubles. It’s fun to order adventurously from a menu like this.
For me, the language barrier is huge because I don’t speak Russian, and many people you deal with (clerks, salespeople, waiters, and tellers) speak only Russian. And, in Russia, there’s a culture of lousy service with a sneer. It doesn’t matter if you’re a local or a tourist, service often stinks. So, eating in a self-service cafeteria-style place with menu items featured on easy-to-identify pictures can be the key to a more enjoyable lunch.
For me, the language barrier is huge because I don’t speak Russian, and many people you deal with (clerks, salespeople, waiters, and tellers) speak only Russian. And, in Russia, there’s a culture of lousy service with a sneer. It doesn’t matter if you’re a local or a tourist, service often stinks. So, eating in a self-service cafeteria-style place with menu items featured on easy-to-identify pictures can be the key to a more enjoyable lunch.
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Correction to September 9th Post

Correction from an earlier post: I’m sorry I mistakenly posted my friend Steve Caron’s travel agency URL as sinbad.ru. I checked it and a ticket booking site came up, but I’ve since learned that it’s one of those bottom-feeding sites that preys on  misspellings. Steve’s business (which is very popular in Russia, and for good reason) is at www.sindbad.ru. You have to watch out for that. If you misspell my URL as ricksteeves.com, you get a sleazy site that tries to book travel from people who are looking for me – but the site has nothing to do with me other than squatting on my misspelled name. Even President Obama has to deal with this. If you go to whitehouse.com rather than whitehouse.gov, you get a site selling sexy lingerie and related products. Keyboard with caution!