My Summer Adventures in the Great Swiss Cities

While most tourists in Switzerland head for the Alps, this year, I enjoyed touring the great Swiss cities: Zürich, Luzern, Bern, and Lausanne.

zurich cityscape

Perched on a rampart over Zürich, a couple of locals take a sun break.

After a long day of guidebook research, I decided to cap my day with a simple aimless stroll around Luzern. I had been wondering just how much people appreciated the tedious attention to detail we put into our guidebooks. And, as if sent by some angel, I met Don from San Francisco. He told me his wife gives him about a month a year for a personal adventure and for the last decade he’s enjoyed annual month-long trips through Europe completely immersed in Rick Steves guidebooks. He knew our work intimately and as we shared a delightful stroll together under the beloved covered wooden bridges of the city, he told me of his happy travels. I went home inspired and energized.

Rick Steves with reader

Luzern has a unique sight called the Depot History Museum. It’s filled with historic artifacts, like this chillingly modern and efficient guillotine. The collection is housed in one of Luzern’s oldest surviving buildings, which was long used to store military weapons and uniforms. Their collection is too big to display traditionally, so they’ve come up with an innovative and fun concept: throw all of their archived stuff together and display it on three crowded floors. You’ll wander through shelves of old weapons, stained-glass windows, sculptures, and old-fashioned tourism posters. Each shelf (sometimes each item) is labeled with a barcode — use your scanner (included with entry) on whichever one you’re interested in. You can then read about its history in English on your handheld screen. It works great. You can bet I scanned this.

Rick Steves with guillotine

This guillotine last decapitated a Swiss criminal in 1940.

Back in my hotel room, I filled the sink with what was one fine beard. Thanks for all the encouragement (both to keep it and to cut it). Your comments were a joy to read. I’ve grown lots of beards over the years, and this was the first time it actually felt like me. But my marketing team blew the whistle on my fun and the beard had to go.

Rick Steves clean shaven

Every few days I need to just stop, stay in my room all day, and input all the notes I’ve picked up in my research. When it’s rainy, my room is comfy, and I have a quiet and relaxing view like this (Luzern), it’s actually an enjoyable day. And it really feels good to have the notes thoughtfully incorporated into the next edition of my Switzerland guidebook.

Luzern

I hit Bern during its annual three-day Buskers Festival. If you like street music, it’s worth planning for. The downside — crazy music until the wee hours outside my window. When confronted by a festival outside your window, rather than gripe about the noise, sometimes you have to just stay up past your bedtime and enjoy it.

crowd

Hey! Stop looking!

Rick Steves at urinal

(Stay tuned for more from Zürich and Lausanne.)

Video: Behind the Scenes in a Massive 500-Year-Old Swiss Cuckoo Clock

A ritual for travelers around Europe is to gather at noon and see old medieval clock towers shift into action for a show that — centuries ago — was impressive. It’s generally pretty anticlimactic by modern standards: A rooster crows, a statue of Jesus stiffly offers a blessing as a carousel of Apostles jolts into motion, the Grim Reaper tips his annoying hourglass, and a jester dings his dong.

In an attempt to give the show a little more razzle-dazzle, here’s a look at the actual gears behind the scenes. Imagine the wow factor of this mechanical spectacle if you were a pilgrim passing through Bern in 1530.

(This clip was filmed with the help of Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli, the brilliant photographer who shoots most of the gorgeous photographs we use on the Rick Steves website, and my local guide Marie-Therese Lauper, who loves to show off her town’s clock tower.)

Video: Joyful Celebration at the Bern Buskers Festival

Buskers (street musicians and entertainers) are a fun part of travel. You spend a lot of time walking as a traveler, and it’s nice to experience a little audio color as you stroll.

I’m traveling through Switzerland right now, and I really lucked out: My itinerary aligned perfectly with the capital city of Bern’s annual three-day busker blowout. The city was inundated with festival-goers (which made my restaurant research a bit less productive — everyone was eating on the streets), and the entire Old Town was a joyful celebration. (Including herbal joy, which I just noticed in this clip at 0:07.)

My favorite band from the festival, an English group called Tankus the Henge, was an extremely physical explosion of musical fun. Check them out!

Video: Getting Mellow — But Not High — With Swiss Weed

Here in Switzerland, I’ve been noticing sterile, pharmacy-type shops that advertise themselves with marijuana leaves. Popping into several of them, I’ve learned about the Swiss approach to pot. In Switzerland, you can legally use marijuana with less than 1% THC to get relaxed…but not high. (To me, this notion is kind of like, “OK, you can sit in the boat…but you can’t pull up the anchor.”) In this video, join me on a visit to a Swiss “Hanftheke.”

Alphorns, Clean Needles, and Fireworks

It’s August 1st — the Swiss National Holiday — and we’re in the capital city of Bern. The lakeside park is packed with beautiful people. I follow the steady stream of bathers hiking up the river to jump in and float down — the city’s wet, urban paseo.

Even with thousands in bathing suits and under a glorious sunshine, the Swiss are subdued. The most enthusiastic expression is the happy shudder I make as I plunge into the fast-flowing river. It’s a wonderfully free float until you near the post positioned so bathers can rescue themselves from the swift current and get out. I don’t know what would happen if someone missed the post — but you paddle like mad to grab it. This was great fun for TV.

Later, in the town, the sun is low. A Turkish girl and Swiss girl drink wine out of bottle under a flower-filled fountain featuring a medieval maiden pouring water from a jug. Trolley tracks, glinting in the sun, shoot like a bottle rocket up the cobbled lane.

A listless guy sits in a shipping container converted into a bike depot. The city has sponsored a free loaner bike program to both cut car traffic and create work for the hard-to-employ.

Enlarge photo

A threesome lies on the grass in shade of the national parliament building, passing a joint. No one cares. The new big Starbucks has a code for the toilet downstairs: 1122. Opening the door, I step into a very blue space. Blue lights make it impossible for junkies to find their veins. The last public WC I was in had a garbage box with a lid labeled “syringes.”

Down the street, I study the layered ads and labels on the coin-op dispenser. I see it was a cigarette machine, converted to a condom machine, and finally converted again to become a syringe dispenser — offering heroin addicts cheap and clean needles.

Just next to the Museum of Fine Arts, a heroin-maintenance center has a yard filled with people fighting their addictions. A steady stream of people step up to a window to get their needles. Filming that was really tricky…but extremely rewarding to bring home to the USA — a “harm-reduction” approach to drug policy. For more on this and other issues related to the European drug policy — and how it differs from ours — read this article I wrote recently for a talk I gave at an ACLU convention.

We tend to see Switzerland as so efficient and impossibly successful. But they have the same problems other countries do. Just like they opted out of the EU, and just like each of their states or “cantons” is fiercely independent, they deal with their problems their way…openly and creatively.

The city center is traffic-free except for taxis and quiet trams flying flags. The streets are filled with people, mostly young. It’s quiet enough to hear the splash of the fountains. As darkness settles, the town’s artful floodlighting becomes evident. The noise of firecrackers grows. Leaving my hotel without my camera, I knew something fun would appear. Sure enough, I came upon an open-air performance by a jazz band whose lead instrument was a long alphorn. Very cool. It would have been a fine photo bridging tradition with the present. Later I joined what seemed like half the city on the big bridge to watch the fireworks show. It was just like a Fourth of July show back home — with the same oohs and aahs for the best explosions. But the pyrotechnics were underwhelming. They’ve been celebrating the First of August since 1291…being a bit jaded would be understandable.