More Sex and Drugs in the Low Countries

On my research trip through the Low Countries, I discovered several examples of the bold Dutch and Belgian approach to challenging social issues.

 

Dutch Pot Smokers Are Pro-Choice
“Coffeeshops” throughout the Netherlands sell a variety of perfectly rolled marijuana joints. With their Dutch green thumbs and state-of-the-art greenhouse technology, the pot sellers no longer need to import their exotic strains. It may be called “Thai” and it may smoke like Thai… but it’s Dutch-grown, Dutch-taxed, and Dutch-smoked.

Needle Bridge Has Lost Its Edge
Amsterdam once had the grittiest, most disgusting, and most dangerous sailors’ quarter you could imagine: Zeedijk street, right where the city hits the harbor. I remember venturing in here in the 1970s, when shady characters seemed to support every streetlamp and where the police just kept their distance. It was sex and hard drugs and wandering lonely souls. The Dutch decided to do something about this problem to take back this potentially wonderful corner of their city. Forty years ago, they decided to decriminalize the sale of marijuana (in “coffeeshops”), and then clean out the hard drug trade. Reviewing the policy recently, the Dutch have found that pot smoking has not gone up, the population of hard drug users is smaller and aging, and street crime has diminished. Whenever reactionary forces push lawmakers to change this pragmatic approach to drug abuse and tighten up on pot laws, gangs and criminals reappear in the streets, violence and turf wars ensue, and recreational soft drug users need to do business with criminal hard drug pushers. Today, throughout the Zeedijk zone, restaurants flourish — and what was nicknamed “Needle Bridge” is a delightful place to stop for a photo.

Red Light Antwerp — Just a Trip to the Mall
Many American tourists find Europe’s red light districts titillating. There was a time when ladies of the night were loitering around train stations and on the wrong side of the tracks in every sizable city. With stricter law enforcement, modern affluence, and the advent of easy access to porn on the Internet, the tourist rarely sees prostitutes on the street in Europe anymore. In many countries, brothels are allowed and limited to a certain zone. Amsterdam’s Red Light District is shrinking, as city officials are not renewing leases to red light landlords — or are giving them to other, more preferred businesses. Ports (like Hamburg and Amsterdam) are known for their red lights. The most impressive I’ve seen is in Antwerp. About four city blocks are pedestrianized and feel almost like a shopping mall. Here you can see the police station parked right in the middle of all that glowing red. I did notice that, while Antwerp has the biggest and slickest red light district, unlike other big cities, it has almost no sleaze elsewhere in town. In a sense, they cleaned the city up by sweeping it all into a small pile.

Inspired to Find Your Niche

As I’ve been traveling through Belgium, I’ve been thinking about how rare and special it is when someone finds his or her niche. Here are three examples.

The Chocolate Lady
It’s so clear: A fundamental part of the joy of travel is to simply be in the presence of people who’ve found their niche. We only live once on this beautiful planet, and we have the personal challenge of doing with our lives what God intended — of finding our niche. I think that when you’re blessed enough to find a livelihood that fits your spirit, it gives you energy — and you, in turn, give the world a positive radiance. In Bruges, Belgium, Madame Dumon makes and sells chocolate. Keeping her little brown world cool in a heat wave, she makes sure everyone who enters gets a rich and creamy sample of their choice.

Michael Smeester runs my favorite hotel in Brussels. When you see his smile and feel his personal energy, you are not surprised by the name he chose: Hotel Welcome. With every visit to Brussels, I have a tradition of teaming up with Meester Smeester to blitz the city’s restaurants and be sure I’ve got the very best in my guidebook. The new edition will be much-improved as — with Michael’s help — I once again saw why locals brag, "Belgian cuisine...we eat as hearty as the Germans and as well as the French.”

Reflecting on My Coffin in Antwerp
Reflecting on My Coffin in Antwerp - I generally travel alone. It’s just me and my mortality. Travel often has me thinking about life, and, now that I’m at the age where I look at the obituaries more than I used to, I’m also aware that the years do go by. For centuries, churches have contributed to that awareness in different and creative ways. Here in Antwerp’s cathedral, a glass coffin seemed to fit this vagabond’s body as if tailor-made.