Screaming Down a Bavarian Hillside on a Luge

It’s important to balance a bus tour itinerary with both serious sightseeing and flat-out fun and exhilaration. And in Bavaria, that means a mountain luge ride (Sommerrodelbahn). We give a careful safety talk and, invariably, someone still drags their elbow on the side of the course and takes home a ripped coat or a nice long luge scab with which to ornament their trip journal. This little video clip gives you a peek at why this ride is a favorite with our groups — and why travel reminds me that it’s never too late to have a happy childhood.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

P.S. I’m on a Best of Europe in 21 Days Tour.

“Mad” King Ludwig’s Castle

Tour guides love to refer to Bavaria’s Ludwig II as “Mad” King Ludwig for building his three extravagant castles in the foothills of the Alps, here in the deep south of Germany. Every tourist seems to have his ultimate fairy-tale castle, Neuschwanstein, on their list.

Ludwig was a romantic king with artsy friends like the composer Richard Wagner. Ludwig, whose dream castle comes with rooms inspired by Wagner’s operas, ruled in an age of Bismarck and “Realpolitik.” Sadly, but perhaps not surprisingly, before he even finished Neuschwanstein, Ludwig was found dead, face-down, in a lake just south of Munich.
Ludwig was a romantic king with artsy friends like the composer Richard Wagner. Ludwig, whose dream castle comes with rooms inspired by Wagner’s operas, ruled in an age of Bismarck and “Realpolitik.” Sadly, but perhaps not surprisingly, before he even finished Neuschwanstein, Ludwig was found dead, face-down, in a lake just south of Munich.
This hardy group of travelers started our Mad King Ludwig sightseeing with a group selfie from Mary’s Bridge, overlooking his castle.
This hardy group of travelers started our Mad King Ludwig sightseeing with a group selfie from Mary’s Bridge, overlooking his castle.
Mary’s Bridge — quite an engineering accomplishment in its day (1866) — provides a commanding view of the castle (from where this photo was taken) and the idyllic Bavarian countryside.
Mary’s Bridge — quite an engineering accomplishment in its day (1866) — provides a commanding view of the castle (from where this photo was taken) and the idyllic Bavarian countryside.
After touring a couple of Romantic 19th-century castles, it’s time for a more thrilling 21st-century travel experience: the luge ride. Across the Alps, you can find various ski lifts jiggered to give travelers a few summertime thrills (and generate a little extra income). The luge ride is always a hit with our groups.
After touring a couple of Romantic 19th-century castles, it’s time for a more thrilling 21st-century travel experience: the luge ride. Across the Alps, you can find various ski lifts jiggered to give travelers a few summertime thrills (and generate a little extra income). The luge ride is always a hit with our groups.

Waking Up on the Rhine, the Birds Are Chirping, and Our Chariot Awaits

A big part of any tour experience is the hotels. Rather than modern comfort, we go for location, character, and memories. This little video clip shares the fun of waking up on the Rhine River in Hotel Kranenturm, as our groups have for 20 years now. Our bus and driver are ready. And just beyond the bus are the brooding war monument and the churning Rhine River.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.

P.S. I’m on a Best of Europe in 21 Days Tour.

Our Father Rhine

I’m enjoying tagging along as a tour member on the Rick Steves Best of Europe in 21 Days tour. We’ve left the Netherlands and have arrived in Germany. Here I’m reminded that a hallmark of our tour program is the gang of beautiful friends and teachers that meet our groups throughout Europe to share their heritage and culture. For 20 years, my dear friend, Rolf Jung, has taken our groups around his hometown of Bacharach, on Germany’s Rhine River.

Herr Jung (literally "Mr. Young"), while well into his 80s, is as frisky as can be when it comes to sharing his story and town with our groups. While he was long the headmaster of the town’s school, today his students are visiting Americans. After a harrowing childhood under Hitler and through WWII, he has amazing stories to tell that vividly bring that chapter of tumultuous German history down to a very personal level.
Herr Jung (literally “Mr. Young”), while well into his 80s, is as frisky as can be when it comes to sharing his story and town with our groups. While he was long the headmaster of the town’s school, today his students are visiting Americans. After a harrowing childhood under Hitler and through WWII, he has amazing stories to tell that vividly bring that chapter of tumultuous German history down to a very personal level.
Gathering together under the medieval arcade of our hotel in Bacharach — with the half-timbered town on one side and the churning Rhine River on the other — Herr Jung kicks off the morning with a song. If it’s sunny, we sing “Oh What a Beautiful Morning." If it’s rainy, it’s “Singin' in the Rain.”
Gathering together under the medieval arcade of our hotel in Bacharach — with the half-timbered town on one side and the churning Rhine River on the other — Herr Jung kicks off the morning with a song. If it’s sunny, we sing “Oh What a Beautiful Morning.” If it’s rainy, it’s “Singin’ in the Rain.”
A challenge for any tour organizer is the smart choice of overnights in each region. On our Best of Europe in 21 Days itinerary, we start off in the Netherlands; rather than overnighting in Amsterdam, we sleep an easy half-hour train ride away, in cozy Haarlem. On the Rhine River, it’s the historic town of Bacharach.
A challenge for any tour organizer is the smart choice of overnights in each region. On our Best of Europe in 21 Days itinerary, we start off in the Netherlands; rather than overnighting in Amsterdam, we sleep an easy half-hour train ride away, in cozy Haarlem. On the Rhine River, it’s the historic town of Bacharach.
Another important choice when putting together a tour itinerary that wrings the most travel experience out of each minute is which castle to visit. For us on the Rhine, it’s the mighty Rheinfels Castle. Here our group has just survived the tunnel system (built 800 years ago to reach out from the castle — secretly and underground — to plant explosives in order to blow up any approaching enemy)...and is happy to once again see the sun.
Another important choice when putting together a tour itinerary that wrings the most travel experience out of each minute is which castle to visit. For us on the Rhine, it’s the mighty Rheinfels Castle. Here our group has just survived the tunnel system (built 800 years ago to reach out from the castle — secretly and underground — to plant explosives in order to blow up any approaching enemy)…and is happy to once again see the sun.
A big castle needed to house and feed literally thousands of people during times of siege. This huge room, under the biggest unsupported stone arch of its kind in Europe, was where the food and wine were stored.
A big castle needed to house and feed literally thousands of people during times of siege. This huge room, under the biggest unsupported stone arch of its kind in Europe, was where the food and wine were stored.
Medieval river towns like Bacharach were generally T-shaped: a long main street running parallel the river, and another street running up the perpendicular ravine. By the way, many illustrious Jewish people came from families named for their village, from Irving Berlin to Burt Bacharach.
Medieval river towns like Bacharach were generally T-shaped: a long main street running parallel to the river, and another street running up the perpendicular ravine. By the way, many illustrious Jewish people came from families named for their village, from Irving Berlin to Burt Bacharach.

Playing the Name Game

Part of my ethic as a tour organizer is that everyone in the group should know everyone else’s name. The best way I know to facilitate this is to play the Name Game. I know, I know — many people don’t like it. But I’m the leader of the guides. This is “tough love”… and a required part of the tour. Here’s how it works: We stand in a circle, and each person reviews the names out loud, gradually working their way up from just a few names until the last person, who gets the biggest challenge: remembering the entire group’s names. Here, at the end of the circle, 12-year-old Annalise nails the challenge, correctly getting every name (with a tiny bit of help midway) in our group.

If you can’t see the video below, watch it on YouTube.