I love the way being in Europe can mix fun and fascinating sights, sounds, and ideas. Here, in the space of about two minutes, we size up a tiny country from above, listen to (but don’t see) a famous car race, catch a rainbow marking an international border, consider how the Alps stretch from the Mediterranean at Nice all the way to Vienna, and then marvel at a towering propaganda monument erected by the Romans 2,000 years ago (La Trophée des Alpes). That’s our puzzle and challenge as we travel: to experience the entire range of Europe and weave it together so it has meaning.
Bienvenue to the French Riviera
I’ve left Italy and have arrived in the South of France. I’m looking forward to a couple of weeks of beaches, hill towns, and great meals.
The French Riviera has amazing scenery. From the beautiful (but grotesquely touristy) mountaintop village of Eze, you can look down on Cap Ferrat. This cape is one of the most exclusive places for the rich and famous to live — Paul Allen’s mansion is next door to the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild. Cap Ferrat is also geographically significant: This is where the Alps rise from the sea and begin their ripple across Europe, arcing from here all the way to Vienna’s doorstep.
The most visited museum on the French Riviera is, understandably, the Chagall Museum in Nice. One reason this museum is so enthralling is that it was designed by Marc Chagall himself to show off his art.
In the world of Marc Chagall — who mixes religion, his Russian heritage, and physical love so elegantly — couples find it’s cuddle time.
I love France and find the French people charming and fun. But I’ve noticed a strange attitude among some museum curators, who seem to believe that only French-speaking people pay their admission prices. I’ve seen so many fine museums this week that have plenty of staff just hanging around, but can’t find the time or energy to translate a single word into English (beyond a list of what’s forbidden and how much it costs to enter). I’m not just worried about my American readers — people from around the world communicate in the language of travel, which is English. This museum’s video has a French audio track. It has French subtitles for extra credit. And, in case a deaf person may be visiting, it devotes a quarter of the screen to a person signing. Yet fully half of the people touring the museum don’t speak French…and understand nothing. (I would bet a thousand non-French speakers come by for each deaf person who drops in.) It’s a lost opportunity. OK, I just had to get that off my chest. Merci.
Last Stop in Genoa
I’m always thinking about how Europe looks so pretty in people’s photo collections, video clips, and even in their memories. But I like the gritty and candid dimensions of Europe that are simply unpolished reality, too. Here’s an impromptu clip of me sharing my last, lousy lunch in Italy while changing trains in Genoa. Two minutes later, I was on my way to France.
The Latest from the Cinque Terre
The Cinque Terre is my favorite stretch of Mediterranean coastline. On this two-month research and TV production trip, I gave myself one day off, and I slotted it in right here.
Unfortunately, cruise lines are now stopping in La Spezia (the gateway to the Cinque Terre), and their thousands of passengers are congesting these otherwise peaceful towns. When the cruise ships are in, mid-days can be miserable, both in the towns — like Vernazza, pictured here — and on the trails. But if you’re out early (before 10:00) or late (after 17:00), there are no crowd problems at all.
Enjoying a sunset from the castle in Vernazza at Ristorante Belforte is one of the most romantic experiences you may ever enjoy.
The restaurants of the Cinque Terre make delightful seafood antipasti plates. When in the Cinque Terre, your best restaurant tip: Order seafood.
Chores on the Italian Road
I’ve been on the road for nearly two months now, and I’m in a great work groove. Even the little chores are fun.
Tour guides know that when you’re in Europe surrounded by tourists binging on chocolate, cakes, and gelato, you learn extreme portion control. While I rarely indulge in an entire ice cream cone, I do sample gelaterie in every town as part of my research responsibilities. And I’m getting pretty good at taking selfies — even while enjoying a little spoonful.
For me, one of the small delights of travel is getting a haircut. While it used to stress me out because of the language barrier, now I keep an eye out for a place that feels right (away from the tourist zone, and with a successful but not too trendy vibe) and trust the stylist. It’s easy to drop in, make a reservation that works conveniently into your sightseeing, and then come back later for your haircut. It’s also a fun way to meet a local. Do you have any good or bad experiences at the barbershop or beauty salon while on the road?
Part of travel is doing the laundry. While I’ve been relying on elbow grease and hotel room sinks for six weeks, soon or later it becomes fragrantly clear that a good, thorough wash is needed. All over Europe, self-service launderettes have smart machines with clear English instructions. This place in Lucca cost me €5 for the wash (detergent was automatically included) and €5 to dry. Suddenly I find people sit with me on the train.
When I’m updating restaurants for my guidebook, I love having a local friend to help out and give their insights. But it can backfire when the local tells the chef I’m writing a guidebook, and they decide to get all trendy. In these cases, I wind up eating goofy gourmet off-menu morsels like this concoction… and learn nothing about what typical travelers eat when they sit down here.