Mont St-Michel Is an Island Once More

It’s great to get back to Mont St-Michel to celebrate the long-awaited new bridge connecting it to the mainland. The previous causeway, built more than a century ago to let pilgrims reach the abbey regardless of the tide, altered the bay’s water circulation and caused the mud flats around the fabled island to silt up. Eventually, Mont St-Michel was no longer an island. Now, with the old causeway replaced by a gracefully arcing bridge, the water flows freely and Mont St-Michel is an island again — at least at high tide. After hiking all the way to the top of the island, here’s a monk’s-eye view.


This is Day 39 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Portugal, Spain, Italy, France, Bulgaria, Romania, and beyond. Find more at blog.ricksteves.com.

An Illuminating Visit to Mont St-Michel

I love the image of monks, 800 years ago, hunched over sacred manuscripts while painstakingly transcribing them. In other words, hand copying entire books using quills or whatever they had for pens. When we travel, such images are given physical context, as is the case here in the abbey atop Mont St-Michel. I’m with my guide, Jessica, in a room that was purpose-built for this job. Imagine, way back then, someone designed this room with big-as-possible windows facing north so that the monks would have gentle, even light for their tedious task. Come step into the light with me at Mont St-Michel in Normandy.


This is Day 38 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Portugal, Spain, Italy, France, Bulgaria, Romania, and beyond. Find more at blog.ricksteves.com.

Savoring Norman Hospitality to the Last Drop

Drinking on the job, I’m finishing up a great day in Normandy. My co-author Steve Smith and I spent the day double-teaming the D-Day beaches and then reviewing our favorite restaurants in Bayeux. Our end-of-the-day treat? Dropping by the most enticing restaurant and enjoying the edible and drinkable hospitality that’s so abundant in Normandy. Here’s a big tip: If you’re going to splurge on a nice dinner in France and want the very best value — do it in a small town rather than in Paris. In this video, you’ll see that the food’s gone, the bottle’s empty, but our little party keeps on going.

Here’s how we write up this place in our guidebook: La Rapière is a lovely wood-beamed eatery — calm and romantic — ideal for a refined meal and a rare-these-days cheese platter for your finale. Reservations are wise (€29-52 menus, closed Sun, 53 Rue St. Jean, tel. 03 31 21 05 45, www.larapiere.net, charming Linda).


This is Day 37 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Portugal, Spain, Italy, France, Bulgaria, Romania, and beyond. Find more at blog.ricksteves.com.

Good Morning, Normandy

Normandy offers a peaceful contrast to Paris. I just had to share the way the day greeted me, a few minutes out of bed, in my cute little B&B in Honfleur. I’m here updating the France guidebook with co-author Steve Smith.  Here’s the listing for this place:

La Cour Ste. Catherine is an enchanting bed-and-breakfast run by the big-hearted Madame Giaglis (“call me Liliane”) and her husband, Monsieur Liliane (a.k.a. Antoine). Their six big, modern rooms — each with a separate sitting area — surround a perfectly Norman courtyard with a small terrace, fine plantings, and a cozy lounge area ideal for cool evenings (Db-€90, includes breakfast, Rue du Puits 74, tel. 02 31 89 42 40, www.coursaintecatherine.com).


This is Day 36 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Portugal, Spain, Italy, France, Bulgaria, Romania, and beyond. Find more at blog.ricksteves.com.

Parisians Refuse to Be Terrorized

Wrapping up three carefree days in Paris, it occurred to me that many Americans are not traveling here because they think it’s dangerous or tense. While security is good — as it should be these days — I felt no tension here.

By the way, isn’t it true that if we overreact emotionally and illogically to the threat of terrorism, we are in effect “aiding and abetting the enemy?” People who overreact are unwittingly rewarding the terrorists, making them more powerful than they actually are. Today, Parisians have a new phrase for going out: “going to a terrace.” Back in November 2015, terrorists shot up a restaurant’s terrace, but the French refuse to cede that territory to the enemy. Bravo!

In this clip, I share my impromptu thoughts during rush hour at the St. Lazare train station as I’m on my way to the French countryside.


This is Day 35 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Portugal, Spain, Italy, France, Bulgaria, Romania, and beyond. Find more at blog.ricksteves.com.