I’m hoping to shoot a TV special about fascism in 20th-century Europe this fall. So, I spent a day in Rome with my friend and fellow tour guide, Francesca Caruso, scouting possible images that might help us tell the story.
Of course, Europe went through a difficult period between the world wars when fascist dictators came to rule Germany, Italy, Spain, and Portugal. And in Rome, plenty of Mussolini souvenirs are still standing.
Mussolini was a braggart and a publicity hound. He celebrated every new law and initiative he signed with great pride and wanted all to see. Each of these stone blocks, for example, is inscribed with an order Mussolini signed into law.
For some reason, fascist dictators thrive on creating enemies. Mussolini actually celebrated this notion by having this slogan set in a stone mosaic: Molti Nemici, Molto Onore (Many Enemies, Much Honor)
The symbol of Italian fascism was a bundle of sticks bound together along with an ax. My Italian guide made it really clear that the ax is a critical part of this symbol, as it represented harsh punishment. One stick is easy to break. But many breakable sticks bound together are unbreakable…and anyone who strays will be dealt with harshly. This symbol also adorned the back of America’s old Mercury dime.
Fascist dictators find both comfort and inspiration in other autocrats who know how to wield power. In anticipation of a visit from fellow fascist tyrant Adolf Hitler, Mussolini built a grand boulevard and lined it with statues of ancient Roman emperors who ruled with appropriate gusto.
Mussolini’s futuristic planned city, E.U.R., was fascism in stone — stern, monolithic, no questions asked…designed to make individuals seem small…to make you cower at the force of the state.
This is part of a relief carved in stone celebrating “Great Building of Rome” — from ancient times until the 1930s. The culmination of the story, Mussolini, is depicted being adored by his populace: workers, women, children, and soldiers.
This perky bronze statue of an athletic young man was originally called “The Genius of Fascism.” After Mussolini was overthrown and Italy’s fascist nightmare ended, Romans saved the statue by putting ancient boxing gloves on him and calling him “The Genius of Sport.”
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This is Day 32 of my “100 Days in Europe” series. As I travel with Rick Steves’ Europe Tours, research my guidebooks, and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences in Italy, Portugal, France, Ireland, England, Scotland, Germany, Switzerland, and more. Thanks for joining me here on my blog and via Facebook.
